Obi (sash)
Encyclopedia
is a sash for traditional Japanese dress, keikogi
worn for Japanese martial arts
, and a part of kimono outfits
.
The obi for men's kimono is rather narrow, 10 centimetres (3.9 in) wide at most, but a woman's formal obi can be 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and more than 4 metres (13.1 ft) long. Nowadays, a woman's wide and decorative obi does not keep the kimono closed: this is done by different undersashes and ribbons worn underneath the obi. The obi itself also requires the use of stiffeners and ribbons.
There are many types of obi, and most of them are for women: wide obis made of brocade
and narrower, simpler obis for everyday wear. The fanciest and most colourful obis are for young unmarried women. The contemporary women's obi is a very conspicuous accessory, sometimes even more so than the kimono robe itself. A fine formal obi might cost more than the rest of the entire outfit.
Obis are categorised by their design, formality, material, and use. Informal obis are narrower and shorter.
Before the Edo period
which began in 1600, women's kosode
s were fastened with a narrow sash at the hips. The mode of attaching the sleeve widely to the torso part of the garment would have prevented the use of wider obis. When the sleeves of kosode at the beginning of Edo period began to grow in width (i.e. in length), the obi widened as well. There were two reasons for this: firstly, to maintain the aesthetic balance of the outfit, the longer sleeves needed a wider sash to accompany them — and secondly, unlike today, married women also wore long-sleeved kimono in the 1770s. The use of long sleeves without leaving the underarm open would have hindered movements greatly. The underarm openings in turn gave room for even wider obis.
Originally all obis were tied in the front. Later on fashion began to affect the position of the knot and obis could be tied to the side or to the back. As obis grew wider the knots grew bigger, and it was becoming cumbersome to tie the obi in the front. In the end of the 17th century obis were mostly tied in the back. However, the custom did not become established before the beginning of the 20th century.
At the end of the 18th century it was fashionable for a woman's kosode to have overly long hems that were allowed to trail behind when in house. For moving outside, the excess cloth was tied up beneath the obi with a wide cloth ribbon called shigoki obi. Contemporary kimonos are made similarly over-long, but the hems are not allowed to trail; the excess cloth is tied up to hips, forming a fold called ohashori. Shigoki obis are still used, but only in decorative purposes.
The most formal of obis are about to become obsolete. The heavy and long maru obi is nowadays used only by maiko
s and brides as a part of their wedding outfit. The lighter fukuro obi has taken the place of maru obi. The originally everyday nagoya obi is the most common obi used today, and the fancier ones may even be accepted as a part of a semi-ceremonial outfit. The use of musubi, or decorative knots, has also narrowed so that women tie their obi almost solely in the simple taiko musubi, "drum knot". Tsuke obis with ready-made knots are also gaining in popularity.
A woman's obi is worn in a fancy musubi knot. There are tens of ways to tie an obi, and different knots are suited to different occasions and different kimonos.
There are many different types of women's obi, and the usage of them is regulated by many unwritten rules not unlike those that concern the kimono itself. Certain types of obi are used with certain types of kimono; the obis of married and unmarried women are tied in different ways. Often the obi adjusts the formality and fanciness of the whole kimono outfit: the same kimono can be worn to very different situations depending on what kind of obi is worn with it.
. A maiko's darari obi has the kamon insignia of its owner's okiya in the other end. A darari obi can be 600 centimetres (19.7 ft) long.
is a grade less formal than a maru obi and the most formal obi actually used today. It has been made by either folding cloth in two or sewing two pieces of cloth together. If two cloths are used, the cloth used for to make the backside of the obi may be cheaper and the front cloth may be for example brocade. Not counting marriage outfits, the fukuro obi has replaced the heavy maru obi as the obi used for ceremonial wear and celebration. A fukuro obi is often made so that the part that will not be visible when worn are of smooth, thinner and lighter silk. A fukuro obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 360 centimetres (11.8 ft) to 450 centimetres (14.8 ft) long.When worn, a fukuro obi is almost impossible to tell from a maru obi. Fukuro obis are made in roughly three subtypes. The most formal and expensive of these is patterned brocade on both sides. The second type is two-thirds patterned, the so-called "60 % fukuro obi", and it is somewhat cheaper and lighter than the first type. The third type has patterns only in the parts that will be prominent when the obi is worn in the common taiko musubi.
or is an obi that has been sewn in two only where the taiko knot would begin. The part wound around the body is folded when put on. The fukuro Nagoya obi is intended for making the more formal, two-layer variation of the taiko musubi, the so-called nijuudaiko musubi. It is about 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) long.
is a collective name for informal half-width obis. Hoso obis are 15 centimetres (5.9 in) or 20 centimetres (7.9 in) wide and about 330 centimetres (10.8 ft) long.
or chūya obi is an informal obi that has sides of different colours. It is fequently seen in pictures from the Edo and Meiji periods, but today it is hardly used. A chūya obi ("day and night") has a dark, sparingly decorated side and another, more colourful and festive side. This way the obi can be worn both in everyday life and for celebration. The obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long.
is a very informal obi made of soft, thin cloth, often dyed with shibori
. Its traditional use is as an informal obi for children and men and there were times when it was considered totally inappropriate for women. Nowadays young girls and women can wear a heko obi with modern, informal kimonos and yukatas. An adult's heko obi is the common size of an obi, about 20 centimetres (7.9 in) to 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and about 300 centimetres (9.8 ft) long.
means "one-layer obi". It is made from silk cloth so stiff that the obi does not need lining or in-sewn stiffeners. One of these cloth types is called , which consists of thick weft thread interwoven with thin warp thread with a stiff, tight weave. (Obi's made from this material are also called .) A hitoe obi can be worn with everyday kimono or yukata. A hitoe obi is 15 centimetres (5.9 in) to 20 centimetres (7.9 in) wide (the so-called hanhaba obi) or 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and about 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long.
was invented in the 1970s in Nishijin
, Kyoto
.. It lies among the usage scale right between nagoya obi and fukuro obi, and can be used to smarten up an everyday outfit. A kyōbukuro obi is structured like a fukuro obi but is as short as a nagoya obi. It thus can also be turned inside out for wear like reversible obis. A kyōbukuro obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) long.
is the most formal obi. It is made from cloth about 68 cm wide and is folded around a double lining and sewn together. Maru obis were at their most popular during the Taishō- and Meiji-periods. Their bulk and weight makes maru obis difficult to handle and nowadays they are worn mostly by geisha
s, maiko
s and others such. Another use for maru obi is as a part of a bride's outfit. A maru obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) to 35 centimetres (13.8 in) wide and 360 centimetres (11.8 ft) to 450 centimetres (14.8 ft) long, fully patterned and often embroidered with metal-coated yarn and foilwork.
, or when differentiating from the fukuro Nagoya obi also called ) is the most used obi type today. A Nagoya obi can be told apart by its distinguishable structure: one end is folded and sewn in half, the other end is of full width. This is to make putting the obi on easier. A Nagoya obi can be partly or fully patterned. It is normally worn only in the taiko musubi style, and many Nagoya obis are designed so that they have patterns only in the part that will be most prominent in the knot. A Nagoya obi is shorter than other obi types, about 315 centimetres (10.3 ft) to 345 centimetres (11.3 ft) long, but of the same width, about 30 centimetres (11.8 in).Nagoya obi is relatively new. It was developed by a seamstress living in Nagoya at the end of the 1920s
. The new easy-to-use obi gained popularity among Tokyo's geishas, from whom it then was adopted by fashionable city women for their everyday wear.The formality and fanciness of a Nagoya obi depends on its material just like is with other obi types. Since the Nagoya obi was originally used as everyday wear it can never be part of a truly ceremonial outfit, but a Nagoya obi made from exquisite brocade can be accepted as semi-ceremonial wear.The term Nagoya obi can also refer to another obi with the same name, used centuries ago. This Nagoya obi was cord-like.
is a name for obis used in dance acts. An odori obi is often big, simple-patterned and has patterns done in metallic colours so that it can be seen easily from the audience. An odori obi can be 10 centimetres (3.9 in) to 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 450 centimetres (14.8 ft) long. As the term "odori obi" is not established, it can refer to any obi meant for dance acts.
is a woven obi made by using yard or narrow strips from old clothes as weave. Sakiori obis are used with kimono worn at home. A sakiori obi is similar to a hanhaba obi in size and extremely informal.
resembles a hanhaba obi but is more formal. It is usually wider and made from fancier cloth more suitable for celebration. The patterns usually include auspicious, celebratory motifs. A tenga obi is about 20 centimetres (7.9 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long.
or kantan obi is any ready-tied obi. It often has a separate, cardboard-supported knot piece and a piece that is wrapped around the waist. The tsuke obi is fastened in place by ribbons. Tsuke obis are normally very informal and they are mostly used with yukata
s.
, habutai
, cotton, or others. It is tied very informally. The adult's heko obi is as long as a normal obi at 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft), but relatively wide at up to 74 centimetres (29.1 in). Adult men wear the heko obi only at home, but young boys can wear it in public, for example at a summer festival with a yukata.
is another obi used by men. A formal kaku obi is about 10 centimetres (3.9 in) wide and 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long and depending on its material, colours and pattern is suited to any and all occasions from everyday wear to a close relative's funeral. A kaku obi typically is made of hakata ori
(and thus a Hakata obi) which has length-wise stripes), or from silk pongee
, silk gauze
, silk damask
. It is worn in the simple kai-no-kuchi knot.
(Seven-Five-Three) celebration, when girls aged three and seven and boys aged five are celebrated. Children's kimono outfits resemble those of adults and their parts are basically miniature versions from adult's pieces. The youngest children wear soft, scarf-like obis.
was utility wear in the time of trailing kimonos, and was used to tie up the excess length when going out. Nowadays the shigoki obi's only function is decorative. It is part of a 7-year-old girl's outfit for celebration of shichi go san.
Many Japanese martial arts
feature an obi as part of their exercise outfit
. These obis are often made of thick cotton
and are about 5 centimetres (2 in) wide. The martial arts obis are most often worn in the koma-musubi knot; in practice where hakama is worn, the obi is tied in other ways.
In many martial arts the colour of the obi signifies the wearer's skill level. Usually the colours start from the beginner's white and end in the advanced black, or masters' red and white. When the exercise outfit includes a hakama, the colour of the obi has no significance.
There are hundreds of decorative knots and they often represent flowers or birds. As everything else in a kimono outfit, the knots are regulated by a number of unwritten propriety rules. Generally the more complex and showy knots are for young unmarried women in festive situations, the more subdued for married or mature women or for use in ceremonial situations.
In earlier days, the knots were believed to banish malicious spirits. Many knots have a name with an auspicious double meaning.
. The knot requires a great length of obi so it can be usually only be made for little girls.
is a very decorative and complex knot that resembles a blossom of iris. It is considered suitable for young women in informal situations and parties. Because of the complexity and conspicuousness of the knot it should be worn with more subdued, preferably monochrome kimono and obi.
is a contemporary, conspicuous knot. It is suitable for young women and can be worn to informal parties. Because of the complexity of the knot, a multi-coloured or strongly patterned obi should not be used. The patterns of the kimono should match the knot representing an occidental flower.
is a version of the bunko musubi, tied using the hanhaba obi. Most ready-made obis (tsuke obi) are made with the butterfly knot.
is a knot nowadays used only by maiko
s, dancers and kabuki actors
. It is easily distinguishable by the long "tails" hanging in the back. In the past also courtesans and daughters of rich merchants, among others, would have their obis tied in this manner. A specific darari obi, about 600 centimetres (19.7 ft) long, is needed for making this knot in full length. There also exists a half-length version of the darari musubi, the so-called handara musubi. According to tradition, a minarai (a maiko-to-be
in training) wears her obi in this style. Maikos wear this knot for specific dances.
is a decorative knot that resembles a sparrow with its wings spread and is worn only by unmarried women. It is suitable for formal occasions and is only worn with a furisode. Traditionally, the fukura-suzume musubi worn with a furisode indicated a woman was available for marriage.
is a subdued obi which is often worn by men. Sometimes older women or women seeking a somewhat masculine air to their outfit tie their obi in this knot.
is often used with haori strings and obijime. The short sanjaku obi for children is also tied in this way.
is the most used musubi these days. It is simple and subdued and resembles a box. The taiko musubi is suited for both old and young women in almost any occasion and goes with almost any kind of kimono and in some cases even with yukata. Only furisodes are considered too formal and youthful to be worn with the taiko musubi. Nowadays the taiko musubi is usually associated with the taiko drum, but the origin of the name does not relate to the instrument. The knot was created at the time of the festive opening ceremony of the Taikobashi bridge in Tokyo
in 1823. Some geisha
s attending to the event tied their obis in a new, conspicuous way that was thought to resemble the shape of a "playing card", ichimai karuta). The knot was a variation of a simple men's knot used then. The knot worn by trendsetting geishas was later adopted by other women. By the creation of the taiko musubi, the accessories obiage, obijime and obimakura were also established. These accessories belong to most kimono outfits used today.
is, as its name suggests, a version of the common taiko musubi, worn with the formal fukuro obi. Fukuro obis are longer than the more commonly used Nagoya obis, so the obi must be folded in two during the tying of the knot. The knot has an auspicious double meaning of "double joy".
resembles a large bow and is one of the most simple musubi worn with furisodes. According to the kitsuke authority Norio Yamanaka
, it is the most suitable knot to be used with the honburisode, the furisode with full length sleeves.
is basically a bow which resembles a certain plant thought to look like an eagle taking flight.
Keikogi
or dōgi is a uniform for training, used in martial arts derived from Japan, or budō. . The prototype for the modern keikogi emerged in the late 19th century. The keikogi was developed by judo founder Kano Jigoro...
worn for Japanese martial arts
Budo
is a Japanese term describing martial arts. In English, it is used almost exclusively in reference to Japanese martial arts.-Etymology:Budō is a compound of the root bu , meaning war or martial; and dō , meaning path or way. Specifically, dō is derived from the Buddhist Sanskrit mārga...
, and a part of kimono outfits
Kimono
The is a Japanese traditional garment worn by men, women and children. The word "kimono", which literally means a "thing to wear" , has come to denote these full-length robes...
.
The obi for men's kimono is rather narrow, 10 centimetres (3.9 in) wide at most, but a woman's formal obi can be 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and more than 4 metres (13.1 ft) long. Nowadays, a woman's wide and decorative obi does not keep the kimono closed: this is done by different undersashes and ribbons worn underneath the obi. The obi itself also requires the use of stiffeners and ribbons.
There are many types of obi, and most of them are for women: wide obis made of brocade
Brocade
Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli," comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth," originally past participle of the verb broccare...
and narrower, simpler obis for everyday wear. The fanciest and most colourful obis are for young unmarried women. The contemporary women's obi is a very conspicuous accessory, sometimes even more so than the kimono robe itself. A fine formal obi might cost more than the rest of the entire outfit.
Obis are categorised by their design, formality, material, and use. Informal obis are narrower and shorter.
History
In its early days, an obi was a cord or a ribbon-like sash, approximately 8 centimetres (3.1 in) in width. Men's and women's obis were similar. In the beginning of the 17th century both women and men wore a ribbon obi. By the 1680s the width of women's obi had already doubled. In the 1730s women's obis were about 25 centimetres (9.8 in) wide and at the turn of the 19th century even as wide as 30 centimetres (11.8 in). At that time separate ribbons and cords were already necessary to hold the obi in place. Men's obi was at its widest in the 1730s, being about 16 centimetres (6.3 in) wide.Before the Edo period
Edo period
The , or , is a division of Japanese history which was ruled by the shoguns of the Tokugawa family, running from 1603 to 1868. The political entity of this period was the Tokugawa shogunate....
which began in 1600, women's kosode
Kosode
The kosode is a basic Japanese robe for both men and women. Worn as both an undergarment and overgarment, it is what most people imagine when using the much broader term kimono. The literal meaning of the term kosode is "small sleeve," which refers to the sleeve opening.Kosode are T-shaped, have a...
s were fastened with a narrow sash at the hips. The mode of attaching the sleeve widely to the torso part of the garment would have prevented the use of wider obis. When the sleeves of kosode at the beginning of Edo period began to grow in width (i.e. in length), the obi widened as well. There were two reasons for this: firstly, to maintain the aesthetic balance of the outfit, the longer sleeves needed a wider sash to accompany them — and secondly, unlike today, married women also wore long-sleeved kimono in the 1770s. The use of long sleeves without leaving the underarm open would have hindered movements greatly. The underarm openings in turn gave room for even wider obis.
Originally all obis were tied in the front. Later on fashion began to affect the position of the knot and obis could be tied to the side or to the back. As obis grew wider the knots grew bigger, and it was becoming cumbersome to tie the obi in the front. In the end of the 17th century obis were mostly tied in the back. However, the custom did not become established before the beginning of the 20th century.
At the end of the 18th century it was fashionable for a woman's kosode to have overly long hems that were allowed to trail behind when in house. For moving outside, the excess cloth was tied up beneath the obi with a wide cloth ribbon called shigoki obi. Contemporary kimonos are made similarly over-long, but the hems are not allowed to trail; the excess cloth is tied up to hips, forming a fold called ohashori. Shigoki obis are still used, but only in decorative purposes.
The most formal of obis are about to become obsolete. The heavy and long maru obi is nowadays used only by maiko
Maiko
is a Japanese word for dancing girl and is an apprentice geisha. Maiko is also a feminine Japanese given name.-Possible writings:Maiko can be written using different kanji characters and can mean:*舞子 or 舞妓, apprentice geishaas a given name...
s and brides as a part of their wedding outfit. The lighter fukuro obi has taken the place of maru obi. The originally everyday nagoya obi is the most common obi used today, and the fancier ones may even be accepted as a part of a semi-ceremonial outfit. The use of musubi, or decorative knots, has also narrowed so that women tie their obi almost solely in the simple taiko musubi, "drum knot". Tsuke obis with ready-made knots are also gaining in popularity.
Women's obi
The wide women's obi is folded in two when worn, to a width of about 15 centimetres (5.9 in) to20 centimetres (7.9 in). It is considered elegant to tie the obi so that the folded width is in harmony with the wearer's body dimensions. Usually this means about a tenth of her height. The full width of the obi is present only in the decorative knot, musubi.A woman's obi is worn in a fancy musubi knot. There are tens of ways to tie an obi, and different knots are suited to different occasions and different kimonos.
There are many different types of women's obi, and the usage of them is regulated by many unwritten rules not unlike those that concern the kimono itself. Certain types of obi are used with certain types of kimono; the obis of married and unmarried women are tied in different ways. Often the obi adjusts the formality and fanciness of the whole kimono outfit: the same kimono can be worn to very different situations depending on what kind of obi is worn with it.
Women's obi types
is a very long maru obi worn by maikoMaiko
is a Japanese word for dancing girl and is an apprentice geisha. Maiko is also a feminine Japanese given name.-Possible writings:Maiko can be written using different kanji characters and can mean:*舞子 or 舞妓, apprentice geishaas a given name...
. A maiko's darari obi has the kamon insignia of its owner's okiya in the other end. A darari obi can be 600 centimetres (19.7 ft) long.
is a grade less formal than a maru obi and the most formal obi actually used today. It has been made by either folding cloth in two or sewing two pieces of cloth together. If two cloths are used, the cloth used for to make the backside of the obi may be cheaper and the front cloth may be for example brocade. Not counting marriage outfits, the fukuro obi has replaced the heavy maru obi as the obi used for ceremonial wear and celebration. A fukuro obi is often made so that the part that will not be visible when worn are of smooth, thinner and lighter silk. A fukuro obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 360 centimetres (11.8 ft) to 450 centimetres (14.8 ft) long.When worn, a fukuro obi is almost impossible to tell from a maru obi. Fukuro obis are made in roughly three subtypes. The most formal and expensive of these is patterned brocade on both sides. The second type is two-thirds patterned, the so-called "60 % fukuro obi", and it is somewhat cheaper and lighter than the first type. The third type has patterns only in the parts that will be prominent when the obi is worn in the common taiko musubi.
or is an obi that has been sewn in two only where the taiko knot would begin. The part wound around the body is folded when put on. The fukuro Nagoya obi is intended for making the more formal, two-layer variation of the taiko musubi, the so-called nijuudaiko musubi. It is about 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) long.
is a collective name for informal half-width obis. Hoso obis are 15 centimetres (5.9 in) or 20 centimetres (7.9 in) wide and about 330 centimetres (10.8 ft) long.
-
- is an unlined and informal obi that is used with a yukata or an everyday kimono. Hanhaba obis are very popular these days. For use with yukata, reversible hanhaba obis are popular: they can be folded and twisted in several ways to create colour effects. A hanhaba obi is 15 centimetres (5.9 in) wide and 300 centimetres (9.8 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long. Tying it is relatively easy, and its use does not require pads or strings. The knots used for hanhaba obi are often simplified versions of bunko-musubi. As it is more "acceptable" to play with an informal obi, hanhaba obi is sometimes worn in self-invented styles, often with decorative ribbons and such.
-
- is an unlined hoso obi whose width is 15 centimetres (5.9 in) or 20 centimetres (7.9 in) and length 300 centimetres (9.8 ft).
or chūya obi is an informal obi that has sides of different colours. It is fequently seen in pictures from the Edo and Meiji periods, but today it is hardly used. A chūya obi ("day and night") has a dark, sparingly decorated side and another, more colourful and festive side. This way the obi can be worn both in everyday life and for celebration. The obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long.
is a very informal obi made of soft, thin cloth, often dyed with shibori
Shibori
is a Japanese term for several methods of dyeing cloth with a pattern by binding, stitching, folding, twisting, compressing it, or capping. Some of these methods are known in the West as tie-dye.-Techniques:...
. Its traditional use is as an informal obi for children and men and there were times when it was considered totally inappropriate for women. Nowadays young girls and women can wear a heko obi with modern, informal kimonos and yukatas. An adult's heko obi is the common size of an obi, about 20 centimetres (7.9 in) to 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and about 300 centimetres (9.8 ft) long.
means "one-layer obi". It is made from silk cloth so stiff that the obi does not need lining or in-sewn stiffeners. One of these cloth types is called , which consists of thick weft thread interwoven with thin warp thread with a stiff, tight weave. (Obi's made from this material are also called .) A hitoe obi can be worn with everyday kimono or yukata. A hitoe obi is 15 centimetres (5.9 in) to 20 centimetres (7.9 in) wide (the so-called hanhaba obi) or 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and about 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long.
was invented in the 1970s in Nishijin
Nishijin
is a traditional textile produced in Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto, Japan.-History:Nishijin weaving was created in Kyoto over 1200 years ago by using many different types of colored yarns and weaving them together into decorative designs...
, Kyoto
Kyoto
is a city in the central part of the island of Honshū, Japan. It has a population close to 1.5 million. Formerly the imperial capital of Japan, it is now the capital of Kyoto Prefecture, as well as a major part of the Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto metropolitan area.-History:...
.. It lies among the usage scale right between nagoya obi and fukuro obi, and can be used to smarten up an everyday outfit. A kyōbukuro obi is structured like a fukuro obi but is as short as a nagoya obi. It thus can also be turned inside out for wear like reversible obis. A kyōbukuro obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) long.
is the most formal obi. It is made from cloth about 68 cm wide and is folded around a double lining and sewn together. Maru obis were at their most popular during the Taishō- and Meiji-periods. Their bulk and weight makes maru obis difficult to handle and nowadays they are worn mostly by geisha
Geisha
, Geiko or Geigi are traditional, female Japanese entertainers whose skills include performing various Japanese arts such as classical music and dance.-Terms:...
s, maiko
Maiko
is a Japanese word for dancing girl and is an apprentice geisha. Maiko is also a feminine Japanese given name.-Possible writings:Maiko can be written using different kanji characters and can mean:*舞子 or 舞妓, apprentice geishaas a given name...
s and others such. Another use for maru obi is as a part of a bride's outfit. A maru obi is about 30 centimetres (11.8 in) to 35 centimetres (13.8 in) wide and 360 centimetres (11.8 ft) to 450 centimetres (14.8 ft) long, fully patterned and often embroidered with metal-coated yarn and foilwork.
, or when differentiating from the fukuro Nagoya obi also called ) is the most used obi type today. A Nagoya obi can be told apart by its distinguishable structure: one end is folded and sewn in half, the other end is of full width. This is to make putting the obi on easier. A Nagoya obi can be partly or fully patterned. It is normally worn only in the taiko musubi style, and many Nagoya obis are designed so that they have patterns only in the part that will be most prominent in the knot. A Nagoya obi is shorter than other obi types, about 315 centimetres (10.3 ft) to 345 centimetres (11.3 ft) long, but of the same width, about 30 centimetres (11.8 in).Nagoya obi is relatively new. It was developed by a seamstress living in Nagoya at the end of the 1920s
1920s
File:1920s decade montage.png|From left, clockwise: Third Tipperary Brigade Flying Column No. 2 under Sean Hogan during the Irish Civil War; Prohibition agents destroying barrels of alcohol in accordance to the 18th amendment, which made alcoholic beverages illegal throughout the entire decade; In...
. The new easy-to-use obi gained popularity among Tokyo's geishas, from whom it then was adopted by fashionable city women for their everyday wear.The formality and fanciness of a Nagoya obi depends on its material just like is with other obi types. Since the Nagoya obi was originally used as everyday wear it can never be part of a truly ceremonial outfit, but a Nagoya obi made from exquisite brocade can be accepted as semi-ceremonial wear.The term Nagoya obi can also refer to another obi with the same name, used centuries ago. This Nagoya obi was cord-like.
is a name for obis used in dance acts. An odori obi is often big, simple-patterned and has patterns done in metallic colours so that it can be seen easily from the audience. An odori obi can be 10 centimetres (3.9 in) to 30 centimetres (11.8 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 450 centimetres (14.8 ft) long. As the term "odori obi" is not established, it can refer to any obi meant for dance acts.
is a woven obi made by using yard or narrow strips from old clothes as weave. Sakiori obis are used with kimono worn at home. A sakiori obi is similar to a hanhaba obi in size and extremely informal.
resembles a hanhaba obi but is more formal. It is usually wider and made from fancier cloth more suitable for celebration. The patterns usually include auspicious, celebratory motifs. A tenga obi is about 20 centimetres (7.9 in) wide and 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long.
or kantan obi is any ready-tied obi. It often has a separate, cardboard-supported knot piece and a piece that is wrapped around the waist. The tsuke obi is fastened in place by ribbons. Tsuke obis are normally very informal and they are mostly used with yukata
Yukata
A is a Japanese garment, a casual summer kimono usually made of cotton. People wearing yukata are a common sight in Japan at fireworks displays, bon-odori festivals, and other summer events. The yukata is also frequently worn after bathing at traditional Japanese inns...
s.
Accessories for women's obi
- Obiage is a scarf-like piece of cloth that covers up the obimakura and keeps the upper part of the obi knot in place. These days it is customary for an unmarried, young woman to let her obiage show from underneath the obi in the front. A married woman will tuck it deeper in and only allow it to peek. Obiage can be thought of as an undergarment for kimono, so letting it show is a little provocative.
- Obidome is a small decorative accessory that is fastened onto obi jime. It is not used very often.
- Obi-itaObi-itaAn obi-ita is a thin stiff board that helps keep an Obi in place and prevent it from getting wrinkled. It is worn underneath the second layer of the obi, after wrapping around the body twice. Modern versions have an elastic band or string, so it can be put on before the obi....
is a separate stiffener that keeps the obi flat. It is a thin piece of cardboard covered with cloth and placed between the layers of obi when putting the obi on. Some types of obi-ita are attached around the waist with cords before the obi is put on.
- Obijime is a string about 150 centimetres (4.9 ft) long that is tied around the obi and through the knot, and which doubles as decoration. It can be a woven string, or be constructed as a narrow sewn tube of fabric. There are both flat and round obijimes. They often have tassels at both ends and they are made from silkSilkSilk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...
, satinSatinSatin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibres such as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is...
, brocadeBrocadeBrocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli," comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth," originally past participle of the verb broccare...
or viscoseViscoseViscose is a viscous organic liquid used to make rayon and cellophane. Viscose is becoming synonymous with rayon, a soft material commonly used in shirts, shorts, coats, jackets, and other outer wear.-Manufacture:...
. A cord-like or a padded tube obijime is considered more festive and ceremonial than a flat one.
- Obimakura is a small pillow that supports and shapes the obi knot. The most common knot these days, taiko musubi, is made using an elongated round obimakura.
Men's obi
Formal obis worn by men are much narrower than those of women (the width is about 10 centimetres (3.9 in) at its most). The men's obi is worn in much simpler fashion than women's: it is wrapped around the waist, below the stomach and tied with a simple knot in the back.Men's obi types
is an informal, soft obi, free flowing and made of tye-dyed fabrics, made from silk crapeCrape
Crape is a silk, wool, or polyester fabric of a gauzy texture, having a peculiar crisp or crimpy appearance....
, habutai
Habutai
Habutai or Habotai is one of the most basic plain weaves. While it was traditionally woven in Japan, most Habutai is today woven in China. It is normally a lining silk but can also be used for T-shirts, lampshades, summer blouses or very light lingerie. It is quite easy to dye and can be found...
, cotton, or others. It is tied very informally. The adult's heko obi is as long as a normal obi at 350 centimetres (11.5 ft) to 400 centimetres (13.1 ft), but relatively wide at up to 74 centimetres (29.1 in). Adult men wear the heko obi only at home, but young boys can wear it in public, for example at a summer festival with a yukata.
is another obi used by men. A formal kaku obi is about 10 centimetres (3.9 in) wide and 400 centimetres (13.1 ft) long and depending on its material, colours and pattern is suited to any and all occasions from everyday wear to a close relative's funeral. A kaku obi typically is made of hakata ori
Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
is one of the seven wards of Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan. It is best known as the location of Fukuoka's main train station, Hakata Station.-Geography:...
(and thus a Hakata obi) which has length-wise stripes), or from silk pongee
Pongee
Pongee is a soft thin woven cloth. In the early 1900s, pongee was an important export from China to the United States. Pongee is still woven in silk by many mills across China. Generally it would vary in weight between 36 to about 50gm/sq m. In lighter variants, it is called Paj...
, silk gauze
Gauze
Gauze is a thin, translucent fabric with a loose open weave.-Uses and types:Gauze was originally made of silk and was used for clothing. It is now used for many different things, including gauze sponges for medical purposes. When used as a medical dressing, gauze is generally made of cotton...
, silk damask
Damask
Damask is a reversible figured fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers, with a pattern formed by weaving. Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn, usually with the pattern in warp-faced satin weave and the ground in weft-faced or sateen weave...
. It is worn in the simple kai-no-kuchi knot.
Children's obi
Children are dressed in kimono especially for the Shichi-Go-SanShichi-Go-San
is a traditional rite of passage and festival day in Japan for three- and seven-year-old girls and three- and five-year-old boys, held annually on November 15...
(Seven-Five-Three) celebration, when girls aged three and seven and boys aged five are celebrated. Children's kimono outfits resemble those of adults and their parts are basically miniature versions from adult's pieces. The youngest children wear soft, scarf-like obis.
Children's obi types
is a type of men's obi. It is named for its length, three old Japanese feet (鯨尺, about 37.9 centimetres (14.9 in)). The obi is sometimes called simply . During the Edo period it was popular among the people as the obi for yukata-like kimonos because of its ease of use. According to some theories, the sanjaku obi originates from a scarf of the same length, which was folded and used as a sash. A sanjaku obi typically is shaped like a kaku obi, narrow and with short stitches. It is usually made from soft cotton-like cloth. Because of its shortness, the sanjaku obi is tied in the koma musubi, which is much like a square knot.was utility wear in the time of trailing kimonos, and was used to tie up the excess length when going out. Nowadays the shigoki obi's only function is decorative. It is part of a 7-year-old girl's outfit for celebration of shichi go san.
- Tsuke obi is a popular obi used for children because of its ease of use. There are even formal tsuke obis available for children. These obis correspond to fukuro obis on the formality scale.
Obi in martial arts
Many Japanese martial arts
Budo
is a Japanese term describing martial arts. In English, it is used almost exclusively in reference to Japanese martial arts.-Etymology:Budō is a compound of the root bu , meaning war or martial; and dō , meaning path or way. Specifically, dō is derived from the Buddhist Sanskrit mārga...
feature an obi as part of their exercise outfit
Keikogi
or dōgi is a uniform for training, used in martial arts derived from Japan, or budō. . The prototype for the modern keikogi emerged in the late 19th century. The keikogi was developed by judo founder Kano Jigoro...
. These obis are often made of thick cotton
Cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed dispersal....
and are about 5 centimetres (2 in) wide. The martial arts obis are most often worn in the koma-musubi knot; in practice where hakama is worn, the obi is tied in other ways.
In many martial arts the colour of the obi signifies the wearer's skill level. Usually the colours start from the beginner's white and end in the advanced black, or masters' red and white. When the exercise outfit includes a hakama, the colour of the obi has no significance.
Knots (musubi)
The knot of the obi is called . These days, a woman's knot often does not keep the obi in place as much as it functions as a large decorative piece in the back. The actual knot is usually supported by a number of accessories: pads, scarves and cords. While putting on the obi, especially when without assistance, there is a need for several additional temporary ribbons.There are hundreds of decorative knots and they often represent flowers or birds. As everything else in a kimono outfit, the knots are regulated by a number of unwritten propriety rules. Generally the more complex and showy knots are for young unmarried women in festive situations, the more subdued for married or mature women or for use in ceremonial situations.
In earlier days, the knots were believed to banish malicious spirits. Many knots have a name with an auspicious double meaning.
Types of knots
is a knot suitable for yukata. As its name suggests, it resembles the Japanese morning gloryIpomoea nil
Ipomoea nil is a species of morning glory known by several common names, including picotee morning glory, ivy morning glory, and Japanese morning glory. It is native to most of the tropical world and it has been introduced widely....
. The knot requires a great length of obi so it can be usually only be made for little girls.
is a very decorative and complex knot that resembles a blossom of iris. It is considered suitable for young women in informal situations and parties. Because of the complexity and conspicuousness of the knot it should be worn with more subdued, preferably monochrome kimono and obi.
is a contemporary, conspicuous knot. It is suitable for young women and can be worn to informal parties. Because of the complexity of the knot, a multi-coloured or strongly patterned obi should not be used. The patterns of the kimono should match the knot representing an occidental flower.
is a version of the bunko musubi, tied using the hanhaba obi. Most ready-made obis (tsuke obi) are made with the butterfly knot.
is a knot nowadays used only by maiko
Maiko
is a Japanese word for dancing girl and is an apprentice geisha. Maiko is also a feminine Japanese given name.-Possible writings:Maiko can be written using different kanji characters and can mean:*舞子 or 舞妓, apprentice geishaas a given name...
s, dancers and kabuki actors
Kabuki
is classical Japanese dance-drama. Kabuki theatre is known for the stylization of its drama and for the elaborate make-up worn by some of its performers.The individual kanji characters, from left to right, mean sing , dance , and skill...
. It is easily distinguishable by the long "tails" hanging in the back. In the past also courtesans and daughters of rich merchants, among others, would have their obis tied in this manner. A specific darari obi, about 600 centimetres (19.7 ft) long, is needed for making this knot in full length. There also exists a half-length version of the darari musubi, the so-called handara musubi. According to tradition, a minarai (a maiko-to-be
Maiko
is a Japanese word for dancing girl and is an apprentice geisha. Maiko is also a feminine Japanese given name.-Possible writings:Maiko can be written using different kanji characters and can mean:*舞子 or 舞妓, apprentice geishaas a given name...
in training) wears her obi in this style. Maikos wear this knot for specific dances.
is a decorative knot that resembles a sparrow with its wings spread and is worn only by unmarried women. It is suitable for formal occasions and is only worn with a furisode. Traditionally, the fukura-suzume musubi worn with a furisode indicated a woman was available for marriage.
is a subdued obi which is often worn by men. Sometimes older women or women seeking a somewhat masculine air to their outfit tie their obi in this knot.
is often used with haori strings and obijime. The short sanjaku obi for children is also tied in this way.
is the most used musubi these days. It is simple and subdued and resembles a box. The taiko musubi is suited for both old and young women in almost any occasion and goes with almost any kind of kimono and in some cases even with yukata. Only furisodes are considered too formal and youthful to be worn with the taiko musubi. Nowadays the taiko musubi is usually associated with the taiko drum, but the origin of the name does not relate to the instrument. The knot was created at the time of the festive opening ceremony of the Taikobashi bridge in Tokyo
Tokyo
, ; officially , is one of the 47 prefectures of Japan. Tokyo is the capital of Japan, the center of the Greater Tokyo Area, and the largest metropolitan area of Japan. It is the seat of the Japanese government and the Imperial Palace, and the home of the Japanese Imperial Family...
in 1823. Some geisha
Geisha
, Geiko or Geigi are traditional, female Japanese entertainers whose skills include performing various Japanese arts such as classical music and dance.-Terms:...
s attending to the event tied their obis in a new, conspicuous way that was thought to resemble the shape of a "playing card", ichimai karuta). The knot was a variation of a simple men's knot used then. The knot worn by trendsetting geishas was later adopted by other women. By the creation of the taiko musubi, the accessories obiage, obijime and obimakura were also established. These accessories belong to most kimono outfits used today.
is, as its name suggests, a version of the common taiko musubi, worn with the formal fukuro obi. Fukuro obis are longer than the more commonly used Nagoya obis, so the obi must be folded in two during the tying of the knot. The knot has an auspicious double meaning of "double joy".
resembles a large bow and is one of the most simple musubi worn with furisodes. According to the kitsuke authority Norio Yamanaka
Norio Yamanaka
is a Japanese teacher of kitsuke, "art of wearing kimono", an advocator of every-day use of kimono and the founder and chairman of the Sōdō Kimono Academy, the first kimono-wearing academy in Japan. He has written several books on kimono and travelled to tens of countries to speak about...
, it is the most suitable knot to be used with the honburisode, the furisode with full length sleeves.
is basically a bow which resembles a certain plant thought to look like an eagle taking flight.