Harlech Castle, located in Harlech,
GwyneddGwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although one of the biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
,
WalesWales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom, bordered by England to its east, and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It is also an elective region of the European Union...
, is a
concentric castleA concentric castle is a castle within a castle, with two or more concentric rings of curtain walls and, in cases, no central keep. Generally, the outermost walls are lowest and the height of the walls increases towards the middle. The walls would include towers and bastions and would usually be...
, constructed atop a cliff close to the
Irish SeaThe Irish Sea also known as the Mann Sea or Manx Sea, separates the islands of Ireland and Britain. It is connected to the Atlantic Ocean in the south by St George's Channel, and in the north by the North Channel...
. Architecturally, it is particularly notable for its massive
gatehouseA gatehouse is a feature of European castles, manor houses and mansions. Originally a gatehouse was a fortified structure built over the gateway to a city or castle...
.
Built by
King Edward IEdward I , also known as Edward Longshanks, was King of England from 1272 to 1307. The first son of Henry III, Edward was involved early in the political intrigues of his father's reign, which included an outright rebellion by the English Barons. In 1259 he briefly sided with a baronial...
during his conquest of Wales, the
castleA castle is a defensive structure seen as one of the main symbols of the Middle Ages. The term has a history of scholarly debate surrounding its exact meaning, but it is usually regarded as being distinct from the general terms fort or fortress, in that it describes a residence of a monarch or...
was subject to several assaults and
siegeA siege is a military blockade of a city or fortress with the intent of conquering by attrition or assault. The term derives from sedere, Latin for "to sit"....
s during its period of active use as a
fortificationFortifications are military constructions and buildings designed for defense in warfare and military bases. Humans have constructed defensive works for many thousands of years, in a variety of increasingly complex designs...
. The seven-year siege of the castle, during the
Wars of the RosesThe Wars of the Roses were a series of dynastic civil wars between supporters of the rival houses of Lancaster and York, for the throne of England. They are generally accepted to have been fought in several spasmodic episodes between 1455 and 1487...
, has been memorialised in the famous song "
Men of Harlech"Men of Harlech" or "The March of the Men of Harlech" is a song and military march which is traditionally said to describe events during the seven year long siege of Harlech Castle between 1461 and 1468. Commanded by Constable Dafydd ap Ieuan, the garrison held out in what is the longest known...
".
Construction started in 1283 as part of Edward I's second Welsh campaign.
Harlech Castle, located in Harlech,
GwyneddGwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although one of the biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
,
WalesWales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom, bordered by England to its east, and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It is also an elective region of the European Union...
, is a
concentric castleA concentric castle is a castle within a castle, with two or more concentric rings of curtain walls and, in cases, no central keep. Generally, the outermost walls are lowest and the height of the walls increases towards the middle. The walls would include towers and bastions and would usually be...
, constructed atop a cliff close to the
Irish SeaThe Irish Sea also known as the Mann Sea or Manx Sea, separates the islands of Ireland and Britain. It is connected to the Atlantic Ocean in the south by St George's Channel, and in the north by the North Channel...
. Architecturally, it is particularly notable for its massive
gatehouseA gatehouse is a feature of European castles, manor houses and mansions. Originally a gatehouse was a fortified structure built over the gateway to a city or castle...
.
Built by
King Edward IEdward I , also known as Edward Longshanks, was King of England from 1272 to 1307. The first son of Henry III, Edward was involved early in the political intrigues of his father's reign, which included an outright rebellion by the English Barons. In 1259 he briefly sided with a baronial...
during his conquest of Wales, the
castleA castle is a defensive structure seen as one of the main symbols of the Middle Ages. The term has a history of scholarly debate surrounding its exact meaning, but it is usually regarded as being distinct from the general terms fort or fortress, in that it describes a residence of a monarch or...
was subject to several assaults and
siegeA siege is a military blockade of a city or fortress with the intent of conquering by attrition or assault. The term derives from sedere, Latin for "to sit"....
s during its period of active use as a
fortificationFortifications are military constructions and buildings designed for defense in warfare and military bases. Humans have constructed defensive works for many thousands of years, in a variety of increasingly complex designs...
. The seven-year siege of the castle, during the
Wars of the RosesThe Wars of the Roses were a series of dynastic civil wars between supporters of the rival houses of Lancaster and York, for the throne of England. They are generally accepted to have been fought in several spasmodic episodes between 1455 and 1487...
, has been memorialised in the famous song "
Men of Harlech"Men of Harlech" or "The March of the Men of Harlech" is a song and military march which is traditionally said to describe events during the seven year long siege of Harlech Castle between 1461 and 1468. Commanded by Constable Dafydd ap Ieuan, the garrison held out in what is the longest known...
".
Construction
Construction started in 1283 as part of Edward I's second Welsh campaign. The castle was part of Edward's iron ring of castles around
SnowdoniaSnowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
, a string of new castles to hem the prince in. Like many of the castles in the area, Harlech was designed by Master
James of St. GeorgeMaster James of Saint George , also known as Jacques de Saint-Georges d'Espéranche, was an architect from Savoy responsible for designing many of Edward I's castles, including Conwy, Harlech and Caernarfon and Beaumaris in Anglesey .Early records seem to indicate that his father, Master John, was...
. The castle took seven years to build, and cost an estimated £8,190 to build (£88 million in 2009). Following its completion, James was appointed Constable of Harlech Castle, a position he held for over three years.
All the royal castles of Edward's second Welsh campaign were sited so that they could be kept supplied at all times. Harlech was not always isolated; the sea used to come to the foot of the cliffs.
The castle is built to a concentric plan, with one line of defences enclosed by another. The outer walls are much shorter and thinner than the mighty inner walls, and have no towers defending them besides the small gatehouse. The inner ward is roughly square, with a large round tower at each corner. The domestic buildings, including the great hall, are built against the inside of the inner walls. Since the surrounding cliffs made it practically impossible to attack the castle except from the east, this side is faced by the imposing gatehouse. The gateway is flanked by two massive "D-shaped" towers, and defended by a series of doors,
portcullisA portcullis is a latticed grille or gate made of wood, metal or a combination of the two. Portcullises fortified the entrances to many medieval castles, acting as a last line of defense during time of attack or siege...
es and murder-holes. Notably, there are large windows on the inner face of the gatehouse. The west wall of the
inner wardThe inner ward of a castle is the area surrounded by the innermost walls. Typically, it would hold the hall, well and the other key elements of the castle....
also has large windows (as it forms one wall of the great hall).
The outer ditches at Harlech were cut into the rock. In the height of construction, in 1286, the workforce was 546 general labourers, 115 quarriers, 30 blacksmiths, 22 carpenters and 227 stonemasons.
Harlech is also notable for an unusual feature: the "way from the sea". Edward's forces were often in danger from land-based attack, but he enjoyed total supremacy on water. Many of his castles included
sally portThe primary modern meaning for sally port is a small controlled space, such as a fortification or prison. The entrance is usually protected in some way, such as with a fixed wall blocking the door which must be circumvented before entering, but which prevents direct enemy fire from a distance...
s which allowed resupply from the sea, but Harlech's is far more elaborate. Here, a fortified stairway hugs the rock and runs almost down to the foot of the cliffs, where (at the time of construction) the sea reached. Today, the sea has retreated several miles, making it more difficult to envisage the concept in its original setting. James of St. George's plan was a triumph; when the castle was besieged during Madoc ap Llywelyn's campaign, this stairway was used to supply the castle.
Like many of Edward's castles, Harlech was originally designed to be attached to a fortified borough.
After the completion of the castle, Master James was made constable between 1290–1293, a high status job, that gave him time to work on Edward's castles that were still under construction.
History
The castle built by Edward I as can be seen today was probably built on the site of an earlier Welsh fortress. The scope of this earlier creation is a matter archaeological conjecture but Welsh history and legend suggests the site has had continuous military use from perhaps as early as the Iron Age. The noted
antiquarianAn antiquarian or antiquary is an aficionado of antiquities or things of the past. Also, and most often in modern usage, an antiquarian is a person who deals with or collects rare and ancient "antiquarian books"...
A. Morris describes a rich history long before King Edward;
"Our most famous structure, and perhaps the most famous in the whole of the land, is Harlech Castle, erected in the thirteenth century. Yet
Harlech, according to the traditions of this county, goes back in its origin to much earlier times. One of its towers, known as Twr BronwenBronwen may refer to:* Bronwen Astor , English model* Bronwen Hughes , Canadian film director* Bronwen Maher , Irish Green Party politician* Bronwen Mantel , Canadian actress...
, is a name that carries us back to the times of Bran ap Llyr. Some authorities say that the first fortress of a military character erected here was built by Maelgwn Gwynedd some time in the sixth century. In the eleventh century it seems to have been known as Caer Collwyn. Collwyn ap TangoThe Fifteen Tribes of Wales were a number of families in Wales endowed with inherited noble or royal qualities from pre-Roman times. From their number came arguably the first governments of the nation before consolidation into the Welsh tri-archy of Gwynedd, Powys and Deheubarth...
was lord of EifionyddEifionydd is an area in north-west Wales covering the south-eastern part of the Llŷn peninsula from Porthmadog to just east of Pwllheli. The river Erch forms its western border. It now lies in Gwynedd....
, Lleyn, and ArdudwyArdudwy is an area of Gwynedd in north-west Wales, lying between Tremadog Bay and the Rhinogydd. Administratively, under the old Kingdom of Gwynedd, it was first a division of the sub kingdom of Dunoding and later a cantref in its own right...
, and lived in the time of AnarawdAnarawd ap Rhodri was a King of Gwynedd, also referred to as "King of the Britons" by the Annals of Wales.Anarawd's father Rhodri the Great had eventually become ruler of most of Wales, but on his death in 878 his kingdom was shared out between his sons, with Anarawd inheriting the throne of Gwynedd...
, King of Gwynedd, in the ninth century. Collwyn resided in a square tower of the original building, the remains of which may still be seen, for some of its walls form the base of the present structure." Merionethshire, Cambridge University Press, by A. Morris (1913)http://www.archive.org/stream/merionethshire00morruoft/merionethshire00morruoft_djvu.txt
In 1294, Madoc ap Llywelyn, cousin to Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, began an uprising against English rule that spread quickly through Wales. Several English-held towns were razed and Harlech (along with
Criccieth Castleright|thumb|Criccieth CastleCriccieth Castle is a castle situated on the headland between two beaches in Criccieth, Gwynedd, in North Wales, on a rocky peninsula overlooking Tremadog Bay....
and
Aberystwyth CastleAberystwyth Castle is located in Aberystwyth, Ceredigion, Mid Wales.right|thumb|Aberystwyth Castle's North GateThe construction of Aberystwyth Castle began in 1277. The area had hosted other castles before it, the earliest being a fortress dating back to the Iron Age.Aberystwyth Castle was built as...
) were besieged that winter. As noted above, the "Way to the Sea" helped the defenders survive until the siege was lifted the following spring.
In 1404, the castle fell to
Owain GlyndŵrOwain Glyndŵr , or Owain Glyn Dŵr, anglicised by William Shakespeare as Owen Glendower and also sometimes styled Owain IV of Wales by modern historians, was a Welsh ruler and the last native Welsh person to hold the title Prince of Wales...
after a long siege when starvation reduced the determined and fearful garrison to just twenty-one men, becoming his residence and family home and military headquarters for four years. He held his second parliament in Harlech in August 1405. Four years later, after another long siege of eight months, Harlech Castle was retaken in 1409 by Prince Henry (later
Henry VHenry V was King of England from 1413 until his death. From an unassuming start his military successes in the Hundred Years' War, culminating with his famous victory at the Battle of Agincourt, saw him come close to uniting the realms of England and France under his rule.-Early life:Henry was born...
) and a force of 1000 men under
John TalbotJohn Talbot, 1st Earl of Shrewsbury was an important English military commander during the Hundred Years' War, as well as the only Lancastrian Constable of France.-Family:...
, during which
Edmund MortimerThe name Edmund Mortimer was held by several members of the powerful Marcher family of Mortimer, including:*Edmund Mortimer, 2nd Baron Wigmore*Edmund Mortimer, 3rd Earl of March and his grandson*Edmund Mortimer, 5th Earl of March,...
starved to death and Glyndŵr's wife,
Margaret HanmerMargaret Hanmer , sometimes known by her Welsh name of Marred ferch Dafydd, was the wife of Owain Glyndŵr and was thus, technically, Princess of Wales for the time her husband was known by the title of Prince of Wales...
, two of his daughters and four grandchildren were captured, later to be imprisoned and die.
In the Wars of the Roses in the first part of
Edward IV of EnglandEdward IV was King of England from 4 March 1461 until 2 October 1470, and again from 11 April 1471 until his death. He was the first Yorkist King of England...
's reign (1461–1470), Harlech was held by its Welsh constable Dafydd ap Ieuan as a Lancastrian stronghold. Following the
Battle of NorthamptonBattle of Northampton may refer to:*Battle of Northampton *Battle of Northampton...
,
Margaret of AnjouMargaret of Anjou was the wife of King Henry VI of England. As such, she was Queen consort of England from 1445 to 1461 and again from 1470 to 1471 and Queen consort of France from 1445 to 1453....
and the infant
Henry VII of EnglandHenry VII was the King of England and Lord of Ireland from his seizing the crown on 22 August 1485 until his death on 21 April 1509, as the first monarch of the Tudor dynasty.Henry was successful in restoring the power and stability of the English monarchy after the political upheavals of the Wars...
fled to Scotland via Harlech. Following the defeat of the Lancastrians at the
Battle of TowtonThe Battle of Towton took place on a snowy 29 March 1461 on a plateau between the villages of Towton and Saxton in Yorkshire ....
, Edward controlled the country and Harlech eventually became last major stronghold under their control. Sir Richard Tunstall arrived as a reinforcement to the Lancastrians in the latter half of the siege in 1465. In 1468 it was the last Lancastrian fortress to surrender; it was able to withstand the seven-year siege through its being provisioned from the sea. It is the longest known siege in the history of the British Isles. This famous siege inspired the song "
Men of Harlech"Men of Harlech" or "The March of the Men of Harlech" is a song and military march which is traditionally said to describe events during the seven year long siege of Harlech Castle between 1461 and 1468. Commanded by Constable Dafydd ap Ieuan, the garrison held out in what is the longest known...
" according to tradition. The castle was also briefly occupied during the insurrection of 1498.
During the
English Civil WarThe English Civil War was a series of armed conflicts and political machinations between Parliamentarians and Royalists. The first and second civil wars pitted the supporters of King Charles I against the supporters of the Long Parliament, while the third war saw fighting between supporters of...
the castle was the last
royalistCavalier was the name used by Parliamentarians for a Royalist supporter of King Charles I during the English Civil War . Prince Rupert, commander of much of Charles I's cavalry, is often considered an archetypical Cavalier.-Early usage:...
fortress to hold out against the
Parliamentary"Roundhead" was the nickname given to the supporters of Parliament during the English Civil War. Also known as Parliamentarians, they were the supporters of Oliver Cromwell against King Charles I. Cromwell rose to prominence as a Member of Parliament and Parliamentary soldier, and eventually...
forces. The surrender, on 16 March 1647, over a year after
King CharlesCharles I, , the second son of James VI of Scotland and I of England, was King of England, Scotland and Ireland from 27 March 1625 until his execution. Charles famously engaged in a struggle for power with the Parliament of England...
had himself been captured, marked the end of the
first phaseThe First English Civil War commenced the series of three wars known as the English Civil War . "The English Civil War" was a series of armed conflicts and political machinations which took place between Parliamentarians and Royalists from 1642 until 1651, and includes the Second English Civil War...
of the war. The parliamentarians
slightedA slighting is the deliberate destruction of a fortification without opposition from its builders or last users.Many European castles or forts were slighted in the Middle Ages by victorious besieging armies. Some were also destroyed by the owners themselves when they were abandoned to prevent...
the castle after its fall.
Present day
Harlech is part of the "Castles and Town Walls of King Edward in Harlech, Beaumaris, Caernarfon and Conwy (Gwynedd)"
World Heritage siteA UNESCO World Heritage Site is a site that is on the list that is maintained by the international World Heritage Programme administered by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee, composed of 21 state parties which are elected by their General Assembly for a four-year term.A World Heritage Site is a...
, reflecting its importance and remarkable state of preservation. The castle is now in the care of
CadwCadw is a Welsh-government body with the mission to protect, conserve, and to promote the built heritage of Wales. It is the Welsh equivalent of English Heritage and Historic Scotland and is now part of the Welsh Assembly Government....
and is open to visitors.
Architectural historianArchitectural History is the main journal of the Society of Architectural Historians of Great Britain .The journal is published each autumn. The architecture of the British Isles is a major theme of the journal, although it includes more general papers on the history of architecture. Member of...
Dan CruickshankDan Cruickshank is an architectural historian and television presenter, currently working for the BBC, and lives in Spitalfields, London. As a young child he lived for some years in Poland. His father was a journalist based in Warsaw. On a holiday with his family he visited the delightful square...
selected the Castle as one of his five choices for the 2006
BBCThe British Broadcasting Corporation, usually referred to by its abbreviation as the "BBC", is the longest established and largest broadcaster in the world...
television documentary series
Britain's Best BuildingsBritain's Best Buildings is a BBC documentary series in which the TV presenter and architectural historian Dan Cruickshank discusses his selection of the finest examples of British architecture...
.
External links