Gaja (wine)
Encyclopedia
Gaja is an Italian
Italian wine
Italian wine is wine produced in Italy, a country which is home to some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Italy is the world's largest wine producer, responsible for approximately one-fifth of world wine production in 2005. Italian wine is exported largely around the world and has...

 wine
Wine
Wine is an alcoholic beverage, made of fermented fruit juice, usually from grapes. The natural chemical balance of grapes lets them ferment without the addition of sugars, acids, enzymes, or other nutrients. Grape wine is produced by fermenting crushed grapes using various types of yeast. Yeast...

 producer from the Piemonte region
Piemonte (wine)
Piemonte wine is the range of Italian wines made in the province of Piedmont in the northwestern corner of Italy.The best-known wines from the region include Barolo and Barbaresco. They are made from the Nebbiolo grape...

 in the district of Langhe
Langhe
The Langhe is a hilly area to the south and east of the river Tanaro in the province of Cuneo in Piedmont, northern Italy....

, chiefly producing a number of Barbaresco
Barbaresco
Barbaresco is an Italian wine made with the Nebbiolo grape. Barbaresco is produced in the Piedmont region in an area of the Langhe immediately to the east of Alba and specifically in the comunes of Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive plus that area of the frazione San Rocco Senodelvio which was once part...

 and Barolo
Barolo
Barolo is a red Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita wine produced in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. It is made from the Nebbiolo grape and is often described as one of Italy's greatest wines...

 wines, and later diversified into Brunello
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino is a red Italian wine produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino located about 120 km south of Florence in the Tuscany wine region. Brunello, roughly translated as "small dark one" in the local dialect, is the unofficial name of the clone of Sangiovese...

 and "Super-Tuscan" production. Its current owner and president Angelo Gaja is credited with developing techniques that have revolutionised winemaking
Winemaking
Winemaking, or vinification, is the production of wine, starting with selection of the grapes or other produce and ending with bottling the finished wine. Although most wine is made from grapes, it may also be made from other fruit or non-toxic plant material...

 in Italy, and terms such as "the undisputed king of Barbaresco", and "the man who dragged Piedmont into the modern world" have been applied to him, and whose Barbaresco wine is considered a status symbol on a par with Château Lafite-Rothschild
Château Lafite-Rothschild
Château Lafite Rothschild is a wine estate in France, owned by members of the Rothschild family since the 19th century. The name Lafite comes from the Gascon term "la hite" meaning "small hill"....

 or Krug
Krug
Krug may refer to:* Krug , people with this surname* Krug, California, an unincorporated community in Napa County* Champagne Krug, a famous champagne* Krug, a fictional race of creatures in the role-playing game Dungeon Siege...

.

Additionally, Gaja Distribuzione imports to Italy high-end wines from elsewhere in the world including Champagne, Sauternes
Sauternes (wine)
Sauternes is a French sweet wine from the Sauternais region of the Graves section in Bordeaux. Sauternes is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. This causes the grapes to become partially raisined,...

 and Bordeaux
Bordeaux wine
A Bordeaux wine is any wine produced in the Bordeaux region of France. Average vintages produce over 700 million bottles of Bordeaux wine, ranging from large quantities of everyday table wine, to some of the most expensive and prestigious wines in the world...

, Spanish
Spanish wine
Spanish wines are wines produced in the southwestern European country of Spain. Located on the Iberian Peninsula, Spain has over 2.9 million acres planted—making it the most widely planted wine producing nation but it is the third largest producer of wine in the world, the largest...

 and Californian
California wine
California wine has a long and continuing history, and in the late twentieth century became recognized as producing some of the world's finest wine. While wine is made in all fifty U.S. states, up to 90% of American wine is produced in the state...

 wine, as well as spirits
Alcohol
In chemistry, an alcohol is an organic compound in which the hydroxy functional group is bound to a carbon atom. In particular, this carbon center should be saturated, having single bonds to three other atoms....

 and glassware
Glassware
This list of glassware includes drinking vessels , tableware, such as dishes, and flatware used to set a table for eating a meal, general glass items such as vases, and glasses used in the catering industry whether made of glass or plastics such as polystyrene and...

.

History

The Gaja winery
Winery
A winery is a building or property that produces wine, or a business involved in the production of wine, such as a wine company. Some wine companies own many wineries. Besides wine making equipment, larger wineries may also feature warehouses, bottling lines, laboratories, and large expanses of...

 was founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja, the Gaja family having arrived from Spain during the 17th century. The family Gaja opened a tavern in Barbaresco, serving its wines with the food. At the end of the 19th century, Gaja wines were bottled and supplied to the Italian army in Abyssinia.

In 1937, Giovanni Gaja first put the name Gaja in big red letters on his bottles' labels. The firm progressed following World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...

 as Giovanni Gaja made a significant series of vineyard
Vineyard
A vineyard is a plantation of grape-bearing vines, grown mainly for winemaking, but also raisins, table grapes and non-alcoholic grape juice...

 purchases in terms of scale and vineyard quality. Also cited as an important influence to the firm's early success is the mother of Giovanni Gaja, Clotilda Rey, who instilled the principles of working to achieve high quality to attract the desired clientele, and set high prices to manifest the prestige of the product.

Angelo Gaja

Angelo Gaja, (b. 1940) great-grandson of Giovanni Gaja, began his career with the company in 1961 at the age of 21, having studied wine making at the Enological Institute in Alba and at the University of Montpellier
University of Montpellier
The University of Montpellier was a French university in Montpellier in the Languedoc-Roussillon région of the south of France. Its present-day successor universities are the University of Montpellier 1, Montpellier 2 University and Paul Valéry University, Montpellier III.-History:The university...

 in France, and held a degree in economics from the University of Turin
University of Turin
The University of Turin is a university in the city of Turin in the Piedmont region of north-western Italy...

. At the time there were only about 100 people producing Barbaresco and Barolo, and Gaja was already the major vineyard owner of Barbaresco.

Following several trips to France and disputes with his father, Angelo Gaja introduced several practices to the region over the following years, revolutionary to the vinification of Nebbiolo. From 1961 began the first experiments with green harvest or diradamento, and single vineyard production was started with Sorí San Lorenzo in 1967, Sorí Tilden in 1970 and Costa Russi in 1978. Since 1970 Gaja has employed the eminent oenologist Guido Rivella. Gaja is also credited with introducing to Piemonte malolactic fermentation
Malolactic fermentation
Malolactic fermentation is a process in winemaking where tart-tasting malic acid, naturally present in grape must, is converted to softer-tasting lactic acid. Malolactic fermentation tends to create a rounder, fuller mouthfeel. It has been said that malic acid tastes of green apples...

, from the 1975–1976 vintage implementing French barriques ten years after initial experiments, bringing in thermo-controllable fermentation equipment and French grape varieties, and eventually grand cru prices. Giovanni Gaja opposed his son's use of new barriques and the decision to plant French grape varieties.

In 1977 Gaja Distribuzione was founded, which imports to Italy wines and wine accessories from other countries, and in 1978 the Darmagi vineyard in Barbaresco, a prime Nebbiolo site, was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the world's most widely recognized red wine grape varieties. It is grown in nearly every major wine producing country among a diverse spectrum of climates from Canada's Okanagan Valley to Lebanon's Beqaa Valley...

. Gaja stated this was done not because of his love for Cabernet Sauvignon, but from the belief that only by making a great Cabernet, aged in barriques, could he persuade the world that Italy was capable of greatness. And only by succeeding on terms accepted by the rest of the world could he draw attention to the great wines made from Italy's indigenous grapes. This was followed in 1979 when The Gaia & Rey vineyard in Treiso was planted with Chardonnay
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is a green-skinned grape variety used to make white wine. It is originated from the Burgundy wine region of eastern France but is now grown wherever wine is produced, from England to New Zealand...

. Later in 1983, Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon blanc
Sauvignon Blanc is a green-skinned grape variety which originates from the Bordeaux region of France. The grape most likely gets its name from the French word sauvage and blanc due to its early origins as an indigenous grape in South West France., a possible descendant of savagnin...

 was planted in the Alteni di Brassica vineyard in Barbaresco.

Considered a modernist in a traditional region, Gaja was criticised for his approach in the early years, but unlike many other modernists, Gaja is restricted in the use of new oak. Gaja ferments his wines for up to 30 days, the old-fashioned way instead of the modernist five-day fermentations, and although he employs barriques (⅓ new oak) for the first year of aging
Aging of wine
The aging of wine, and its ability to potentially improve wine quality, distinguishes wine from most other consumable goods. While wine is perishable and capable of deteriorating, complex chemical reactions involving a wine's sugars, acids and phenolic compounds can alter the aroma, color,...

, the process is finished in big botti (traditional 10-100+hL
Litre
pic|200px|right|thumb|One litre is equivalent to this cubeEach side is 10 cm1 litre water = 1 kilogram water The litre is a metric system unit of volume equal to 1 cubic decimetre , to 1,000 cubic centimetres , and to 1/1,000 cubic metre...

 casks, Slavonia
Slavonia
Slavonia is a geographical and historical region in eastern Croatia...

n oak or historically chestnut
Chestnut
Chestnut , some species called chinkapin or chinquapin, is a genus of eight or nine species of deciduous trees and shrubs in the beech family Fagaceae, native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The name also refers to the edible nuts they produce.-Species:The chestnut belongs to the...

, some of which ca. 80–120 years old). Piemonte producers who became inspired by Gaja's methods include Renato Ratti and Aldo Conterno, while Bruno Giacosa
Bruno Giacosa
Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, in tandem with the label Azienda Agricola Falletto , is an Italian wine producer from the Piemonte region in the district of Langhe situated in Neive, who produces a number of Barbaresco and Barolo wines, as well as other bottlings of Arneis, Barbera, Dolcetto and a...

 is considered by many to be Gaja's "polar opposite".
The reputation of Gaja evolved over the years as his uncompromising policy became established. He refused to sell 12000 winecase of 1984 Barbaresco under the Gaja label, opting instead to sell it off in bulk. His stature also strengthened by commendations such as the Wine Spectator
Wine Spectator
Wine Spectator is a lifestyle magazine that focuses on wine and wine culture. It publishes 15 issues per year with content that includes news, articles, profiles, and general entertainment pieces...

proclamation that the 1985 Gaja Barbarescos were "the finest wines ever made in Italy", the selection for the 1997 Wine Spectator Distinguished Service Award, and for "1998 Decanter
Decanter (magazine)
Decanter is an up market magazine on wine and spirits, published in over 90 countries on a monthly basis. The magazine content includes news from the industry, vintage guides and wine recommendations. Decanter organizes the annual Decanter World Wine Awards.-Wine Ratings:Decanter employs a 1 to 5...

Man of the Year".

In 1988 Gaja returned to Barolo with the acquisition of 70 acres (28.3 ha) of property, having previously rented vineyards there and then discontinued the activity when the strategy called for focus on self-owned single vineyards. The Barolo Sperss was first released in 1992. Further acquisitions saw Gaja own property in Montalcino
Montalcino
Montalcino is a hilltown and comune in Tuscany, Italy. It is famous for its Brunello di Montalcino wine.The town is located to the west of Pienza, close to the Crete Senesi in Val d'Orcia. It is 42 km from Siena, 110 km from Florence and 150 km from Pisa...

 Tuscany
Tuscany
Tuscany is a region in Italy. It has an area of about 23,000 square kilometres and a population of about 3.75 million inhabitants. The regional capital is Florence ....

 with the Pieve Santa Restituta estate in 1994, Gromis property in La Morra for the production of Barolo Conteisa Cerequio in 1995 and the Ca'Marcanda property in Bolgheri
Bolgheri
Bolgheri is located in the comune of Castagneto Carducci, a few kilometers north-west of the capital and lies in the Province of Livorno, on the foothills of the Colline Metallifere, south of Montescudaio.-Wine:...

, Tuscany, in 1996.

Angelo Gaja has declared he will not expand the firm's holding outside Italy's borders, although in 1989 he came close to a joint venture
Joint venture
A joint venture is a business agreement in which parties agree to develop, for a finite time, a new entity and new assets by contributing equity. They exercise control over the enterprise and consequently share revenues, expenses and assets...

 with the Napa Valley
Napa Valley AVA
Napa Valley AVA is an American Viticultural Area located in Napa County, California, United States. Napa Valley is considered one of the top wine regions in the United States...

 magnate Robert Mondavi
Robert Mondavi
Robert Gerald Mondavi was a leading California vineyard operator whose technical improvements and marketing strategies brought worldwide recognition for the wines of the Napa Valley in California. From an early period, Mondavi aggressively promoted labeling wines varietally rather than...

. He eventually declined, reflecting that it would be "like a mosquito having sex with an elephant: very dangerous and not much pleasure".

With the 1996 vintage, Angelo Gaja intentionally declassified his DOCG
Denominazione di Origine Controllata
Denominazione di origine controllata is a quality assurance label for food products, especially wines and various formaggi . It is modelled after the French AOC...

 Barbaresco and Barolo wines, with the exception of one, moving them to the lower DOC class Langhe Rosso. Denying rumours contending that this unprecedented decision was stemmed from a desire to blend his Barbarescos and Barolos with international grapes, Gaja stated that among the reasons was that he wanted to remain free to include small percentages of Barbera
Barbera
Barbera is a red Italian wine grape variety that, as of 2000, was the third most-planted red grape variety in Italy . It produces good yields and is known for deep color, low tannins and high levels of acid...

 in the wines (typically only 5 or 6 percent) as a "correction for acidity". Gaja explained further, "I know what many journalists and others in the industry have said and continue to say, but my decision was actually made in support of Barbaresco. My family focused on Barbaresco made with Nebbiolo from 14 of the estate's vineyards, and it has always been the firm's historic wine. But while our single vineyard bottlings grew in prestige, our Barbaresco was suddenly referred to as normale or "basic", and considered inferior to the mono-crus, which I never intended. My family has been making wine and striving for excellence for over 150 years. I don't want anything we make to be considered 'regular'. So now I have one Barbaresco only."

Past the age of 70, Angelo Gaja has passed on the routine running of the firm to his daughters, Gaia and Rossana Gaja, although has not yet declared himself retired.

Production

Gaja produces in all 18 different wines from vineyards in Piedmont 100 hectares (247.1 acre), within the Barbaresco zone Barbaresco and Treiso
Treiso
Treiso is a comune in the Province of Cuneo in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 50 km southeast of Turin and about 50 km northeast of Cuneo. As of 31 December 2004, it had a population of 764 and an area of 9.5 km²....

 and the Barolo zone Serralunga d'Alba
Serralunga d'Alba
Serralunga d'Alba is a comune in the Province of Cuneo in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 60 km southeast of Turin and about 45 km northeast of Cuneo....

 and La Morra
La Morra
La Morra is a comune in the Province of Cuneo in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 50 km southeast of Turin and about 40 km northeast of Cuneo...

, in Montalcino 27 hectares (66.7 acre) and Bolgheri 110 hectares (271.8 acre), with a total annual production of 350,000 bottles.

Barbaresco

  • Gaja Barbaresco DOCG

The Gaja estate flagship wine which has been produced since its founding in 1859.

It is a 100% Nebbiolo varietal
Varietal
"Varietal" describes wines made primarily from a single named grape variety, and which typically displays the name of that variety on the wine label. Examples of grape varieties commonly used in varietal wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot...

 wine sourced from 14 different Barbaresco zone vineyards. It has 12 months of barrique aging and then 12 months of aging in large oak casks.
  • Costa Russi

A single vineyard acquired by the Gaja family in 1967. The name comes from the term "costa", the side of a hill facing the sun, and "Russi" a nickname of the previous owner.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 95% Nebbiolo and 5% Barbera, with 12 months in barriques and then 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.
  • Sorì Tildìn

A vineyard acquired by the Gaja family in 1967, first produced as a single-vineyard wine in 1970. "Sorì" is a Piedmontese word for "hilltop with southern exposure" and "Tildìn" was a nickname of Clotilde Rey, Angelo Gaja's grandmother.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 95% Nebbiolo and 5% Barbera, with 12 months in barriques followed by 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.
  • Sorì San Lorenzo

A vineyard bought from the parish of Alba
Alba
Alba is the Scottish Gaelic name for Scotland. It is cognate to Alba in Irish and Nalbin in Manx, the two other Goidelic Insular Celtic languages, as well as similar words in the Brythonic Insular Celtic languages of Cornish and Welsh also meaning Scotland.- Etymology :The term first appears in...

 in 1964, named after San Lorenzo, the patron saint of Alba's cathedral.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 95% Nebbiolo and 5% Barbera, with 12 months in barriques followed by 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.

Barolo

  • Sperss

Having purchased grapes from Serralunga for the Gaja Barolo until 1961, this ceased with the decision to produce only from estate-owned vineyards. In 1988, Gaja bought the vineyard. The name is Piedmontese for "nostalgia", indicating a longing to return to the making of Barolo after several years of absence.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 94% Nebbiolo and 6% Barbera, with 12 months in barriques followed by 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.
  • Conteisa (Conteisa Cerequio)

The name is Piedmontese for "quarrel", referring to a historic dispute between the communes La Morra and Barolo, both claiming the Cerequio land.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 92% Nebbiolo and 8% Barbera, with 12 months in barriques followed by 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.
  • Dagromis

Named after the Gromis family which owned the vineyard in the commune of La Morra throughout the 19th century, before acquired by the Gaja family. It is blended with fruit from another Gaja-owned vineyard in Serralunga.

It is a 100% Nebbiolo varietal wine, with 12 months in barriques followed by 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified Barolo DOCG.

Other

  • Darmagi

Planted in 1978, the name meaning "what a shame" or "pity!", is said to be a comment made by Angelo Gaja's father, Giovanni Gaja, reflecting on Cabernet vines planted on a prime Nebbiolo site.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 6 to 8 months in barriques, then 12 months in large oak casks. It is classified a Cabernet Sauvignon Langhe DOC.
  • Sito Moresco

Several estate-owned vineyards, among which the 10 hectares (24.7 acre) Sito Moresco vineyard in Barbaresco, with the name "Moresco's site" referring to the former owner of the vineyard.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 35% Nebbiolo, 35% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in barriques, then at least 6 months of bottle aging. It is classified Langhe DOC.
  • Gaia & Rey

The Gaja estate's first white wine, sourced from the Gaia & Rey vineyard which was planted in 1979. It is named for Angelo Gaja's oldest daughter, Gaia Gaja, and his grandmother, Clotilde Rey.

It is a 100% Chardonnay varietal wine, with 6–8 months of barrique aging with malolactic fermentation. It is classified Langhe.
  • Alteni di Brassica

The vineyards were planted with Sauvignon Blanc in 1983. The name comes from the "alteni", small stone walls that in the past surrounded the orchards in the area, and "brassica", yellow flowers that cover the vineyards in the spring.

It is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc varietal with 6–8 months of barrique aging with malolactic fermentation. It is classified Langhe.
  • Rossj-Bass

The wine is produced from grapes grown in multiple estate-owned vineyards. The Rossj vineyard, planted in 1984, is named for Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter Rossana "Rossj" Gaja.

Its grape variety distribution is predominantly Chardonnay with a small portion of Sauvignon blanc, aged in barrique for 6–7 months with malolactic fermentation. It is classified Langhe.
  • Grappa

There is also produced the three Castello di Barbaresco grappa
Grappa
Grappa is an alcoholic beverage, a fragrant, grape-based pomace brandy of Italian origin that contains 35%–60% alcohol by volume...

s named Sperss, Gaia & Rey and Darmagi, originating from these vineyards. They are destilled from Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, respectively. There is also produced Grappa di Barbera and Grappa di Barolo.

Pieve Santa Restituta

In 1994 Gaja acquired its first property in Toscana, Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino. The property's 16 hectares (39.5 acre) of vineyards producing two wines that are Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino is a red Italian wine produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino located about 120 km south of Florence in the Tuscany wine region. Brunello, roughly translated as "small dark one" in the local dialect, is the unofficial name of the clone of Sangiovese...

, with exceptions such as in 2005 which was estimated by Gaja as a lesser vintage, and a single Brunello was produced.
  • Rennina

This wine is sourced from three non-contiguous vineyard sites, located on a portion of the Pieve Santa Restituta estate that was named "vicus Rennina" according to an 8th century document.

It is a 100% Sangiovese varietal wine with one year in barriques and one year in large oak casks, followed by at least two years of bottle aging. It is classified Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.
  • Sugarille

A wine sourced with fruit from the Sugarille vineyard which was first recorded in the inventory of Pieve parish church in 1547.

It is a 100% Sangiovese varietal wine with one year in barriques and one year in large oak casks, followed by at least two years of bottle aging. It is classified Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.

Ca'Marcanda

Located in Castagneto Carducci in Bolgheri, in the Maremma
Maremma
The Maremma is a vast area in Italy bordering the Tyrrhenian Sea, consisting of part of south-western Tuscany - Maremma Livornese and Maremma Grossetana , and part of northern Lazio - Maremma Laziale .The poet Dante Alighieri in his Divina Commedia places the...

, the estate was bought by Gaja in 1996 when vines were planted, and the estate extends 100 hectares (247.1 acre). Three wines are produced.
  • Promis

The name stems from the Latin abbreviation, promissio, meaning promise. The grapes are cultivated in the terre brune dark soils of the Ca'Marcanda vineyard.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 55% Merlot, 35% Syrah and 10% Sangiovese, aged in somewhat used barriques for 12 months followed by several months of bottle aging before release. It is classified Toscana IGT
Indicazione geografica tipica
Indicazione geografica tipica is the second of four classifications of wine recognized by the government of Italy. Created to recognize the unusually high quality of the class of wines known as Super Tuscans, IGT wines are labeled with the locality of their creation, but do not meet the...

.
  • Magari

The estate's second wine
Second wine
Second wine is a term commonly associated with Bordeaux wine to refer to a second label wine made from cuvee not selected for use in the Grand vin or first label...

, the name may translate to "perhaps" or "if only" and is from fruit grown in a combination of terre brune and terre blanche, white soils with stones and pebbles.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, aged in new and somewhat used barriques for 18 months followed by no less than six months of bottle aging. It is classified Toscana IGT.
  • Camarcanda

The name, from the winery name Ca’Marcanda, is a Piedmontese term for "house of endless negotiations", in reference to long-lasting period it took to persuade the previous owners to sell the estate. The vineyard is from one of the stoniest sites of the Ca'Marcanda estate, 100% terre bianche.

Its grape variety distribution is ca. 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, aged in new and somewhat used barriques for 18 months followed by at least twelve months of bottle aging. It is classified Toscana IGT.

Further reading

  • Steinberg, Edward (1996). The Making of a Great Wine: Gaja and Sori San Lorenzo. HarperCollins Publishers.

External links

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