Cristina Castagna
Encyclopedia
Cristina "El Grio" Castagna (23 December 1977 – 18 July 2009) was an Italian
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...

 mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...

 and the first Italian woman on Makalu
Makalu
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...

.

Castagna was born in San Quirico di Valdagno
Valdagno
-History:Valdagno's town was founded in 861, the name deriving from the Latin amins, then amnius, meaning "river". It is first mentioned in a 1184 document when it was a fief given by the Vicenza bishop to the Trissino family....

. She died in 2009 on Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...

, after a successful summit attempt.

The Broad Peak incident

Cristina Castagna and Giampaolo Casarotto planned to climb Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...

 and Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I , also known as Hidden Peak or K5, is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya...

 in their 2009 expedition.

Before leaving home, on a prophetical note (later found by relatives), Castagna asked to be left on the mountains in case of severe accident.

The Broad Peak attempt came first.
The same day Fabrizio Zangrilli, Benedikt Böhm
Benedikt Böhm
Benedikt "Bene" Böhm is a German extreme ski mountaineer and extreme skier. Together with Sebastian Haag he keeps the records in speed ski mountaineering at the Muztagata and the Gasherbrum II....

 and Sebastian Haag
Sebastian Haag
Sebastian Haag is a German extreme ski mountaineer and extreme skier. Together with Benedikt Böhm he keeps the records in speed ski mountaineering at the Muztagata and the Gasherbrum II.Haag is member of the Dynafit Gore-Tex team...

 from Dynafit Gore-Tex-Team were climbing the mountain and spent a few stops with the Italian duo.
On 18 July at 3 PM local time, Castagna and Casarotto managed to reach the summit safely, despite severe weather conditions that had slowed the two climbers for nearly ten hours before they reached the summit.

During the descent, at 7800 metres (25,590.6 ft), Castagna slipped down, gaining momentum and stopping several metres below in a crevasse
Crevasse
A crevasse is a deep crack in an ice sheet rhys glacier . Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the sheer stress generated when two semi-rigid pieces above a plastic substrate have different rates of movement...

. Giampaolo Casarotto eventually managed to reach and try to rescue her with no avail.

The same day more than 30 people were attempting to reach the summit and no summit were initially confirmed.

She rests at 7800 metres (25,590.6 ft), making recovering difficult also for helicopters. The family, following her last will, decided to not attempt a recovery, thus avoiding to risk other mountainers and porters lives.

Castagna's death had great resonancy on Italian media; she was remembered during a senate
Italian Senate
The Senate of the Republic is the upper house of the Italian Parliament. It was established in its current form on 8 May 1948, but previously existed during the Kingdom of Italy as Senato del Regno , itself a continuation of the Senato Subalpino of Sardinia-Piedmont established on 8 May 1848...

 of Parliament of Italy
Parliament of Italy
The Parliament of Italy is the national parliament of Italy. It is a bicameral legislature with 945 elected members . The Chamber of Deputies, with 630 members is the lower house. The Senate of the Republic is the upper house and has 315 members .Since 2005, a party list electoral law is being...

 meeting by Lega Nord senators Paolo Franco e Gianvittore Vaccari.
A month after Castagna death, following an Italian expedition in Hindu Kush
Hindu Kush
The Hindu Kush is an mountain range that stretches between central Afghanistan and northern Pakistan. The highest point in the Hindu Kush is Tirich Mir in the Chitral region of Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.It is the westernmost extension of the Pamir Mountains, the Karakoram Range, and is a...

, Tarcisio Bellò solo-climbed an unnamed peak and named it after Castagna

Early life

Cristina was born near San Quirico di Valdagno
Valdagno
-History:Valdagno's town was founded in 861, the name deriving from the Latin amins, then amnius, meaning "river". It is first mentioned in a 1184 document when it was a fief given by the Vicenza bishop to the Trissino family....

, near Vicenza
Vicenza
Vicenza , a city in north-eastern Italy, is the capital of the eponymous province in the Veneto region, at the northern base of the Monte Berico, straddling the Bacchiglione...

. Youngest of four children, during her childhood, she began discovering mountain
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...

s with her father and her uncle. After a technical degree she became an nurse in the ER hospital in Vicenza, a job she kept for all her life.

After a brief interest into Volleyball
Volleyball
Volleyball is a team sport in which two teams of six players are separated by a net. Each team tries to score points by grounding a ball on the other team's court under organized rules.The complete rules are extensive...

, in her twenties she began climbing
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...

 and ski mountaineering
Ski mountaineering
Ski mountaineering is form of ski touring that variously combines the sports of Telemark, Alpine, and backcountry skiing with that of mountaineering...

 with CAI
Club Alpino Italiano
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment...

. A few years later, she would be heading to the North Col
North Col
The North Col refers to a sharp-edged pass or col carved by glaciers connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet. It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier....

.

"El Grio", the dreamcatcher cricket

During childood Cristina was a lively girl, always in motion, so her father gave her the nickname "Grio" (Cricket
Cricket (insect)
Crickets, family Gryllidae , are insects somewhat related to grasshoppers, and more closely related to katydids or bush crickets . They have somewhat flattened bodies and long antennae. There are about 900 species of crickets...

). She liked the nickname so much she kept it in her adult life ("El Grio") often in conjunction with "acchiappasogni" (dreamcatcher
Dreamcatcher
Dreamcatcher is a Native American cultural object.Dreamcatcher may also refer to:-Entertainment:* Dreamcatcher , a 2001 novel by Stephen King** Dreamcatcher , based on the Stephen King novel...

). She was also an avid reader and writer.
Following the Makalu feat, she began to appear on Italian national news and newspapapers. Nevertheless she kept working as a nurse, climbing in her spare time, and initially at her own expense.
Although she had several sponsors, (notably she was in Salewa AlpineXtrem team) she never became fully a professional climber by status.
She also cooperated as alpini nurse and was enrolled to the National Alpini Association and to CAI
Club Alpino Italiano
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment...

.

After her death, Jorge Egocheaga, Iñaki Ochoa's climbing mate, revealed her role in his rescue on the Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....

 glacier
Glacier
A glacier is a large persistent body of ice that forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its ablation over many years, often centuries. At least 0.1 km² in area and 50 m thick, but often much larger, a glacier slowly deforms and flows due to stresses induced by its weight...

.

Climbing achievements

She was the first Italian woman on Makalu
Makalu
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...

, Nepal
Nepal
Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...

, and at 27, the youngest Italian woman on a eight-thousander
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....

 (the Shishapangma
Shishapangma
Xixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...

, Tibet
Tibet
Tibet is a plateau region in Asia, north-east of the Himalayas. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpas, Qiang, and Lhobas, and is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han and Hui people...

) at the time of her death.

In 2003, during an expedition headed by Tarcisio Bellò along with Mario Vielmo, where she met Giampaolo Casarotto, who would later be her climbing partner for many expedition. The Everest attempt ended at 7800 metres (25,590.6 ft)

In 2004 she would climb again with Vielmo, this time on the Shishapangma
Shishapangma
Xixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...

, along with Michele Fait.
In 2005 she was on the Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China...

, where she clibmed with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders, and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen....


In 2006 she made another an unlucky attempt to the Lhotse
Lhotse
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...

, again with Giampaolo Casarotto and Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli
Silvio Mondinelli
Silvio Mondinelli , is an Italian mountaineer. In the year 2007, he became the 13th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the 6th person to accomplish that feat without the use of supplementary oxygen...

, Marco Confortola and Giampaolo Corona; cold weather drove her back causing a frostbite problem at 8120 metres (26,640.4 ft).
In 2008 it comes the successful Makalu attempt: with Casarotto. At 8000 metres (26,246.7 ft) she was struck by the cold but met Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Burda who helped her. On the 11 May she was the first Italian woman on Makalu but suffered seriously frostbitten feet that would leave her in hospital for weeks.

In her last trip, she planned to climb both Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I , also known as Hidden Peak or K5, is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya...

 with Giampaolo Casarotto, but she died after the successful Broad Peak attempt.
The Italian press agency Ansa mentioned her death in the prominent events of 2009 for Italy

Notable climbs

    • Aconcagua
      Aconcagua
      Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas at . It is located in the Andes mountain range, in the Argentine province of Mendoza and it lies west by north of its capital, the city of Mendoza. The summit is also located about 5 kilometres from San Juan Province and 15 kilometres from the...

      , Argentina
      Argentina
      Argentina , officially the Argentine Republic , is the second largest country in South America by land area, after Brazil. It is constituted as a federation of 23 provinces and an autonomous city, Buenos Aires...

      , 2003
    • Shishapangma
      Shishapangma
      Xixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...

      , Tibet
      Tibet
      Tibet is a plateau region in Asia, north-east of the Himalayas. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpas, Qiang, and Lhobas, and is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han and Hui people...

      , 2004, at 27 the youngest Italian woman on a eight thousander
    • Gasherbrum II
      Gasherbrum II
      Gasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China...

      , Karakoram
      Karakoram
      The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...

      , Himalaya, 2005
    • Lhotse
      Lhotse
      Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...

      , Nepal
      Nepal
      Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...

      , 2006 (missed the summit)
    • Dhaulagiri
      Dhaulagiri
      Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....

      , Nepal
      Nepal
      Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...

      , 2007
    • Makalu
      Makalu
      Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...

      , Nepal
      Nepal
      Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India...

      -Tibet
      Tibet
      Tibet is a plateau region in Asia, north-east of the Himalayas. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpas, Qiang, and Lhobas, and is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han and Hui people...

      , 2008, first Italian woman on Makalu
    • Broad Peak
      Broad Peak
      Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...

      , Pakistan
      Pakistan
      Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...

      -China
      China
      Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...

      , 2009

Humanitarian work

In 1999 Cristina served as a nurse in Valona
Valona
The valona is a popular narrative song- and poetry-form of the Mexican state of Michoacán. Its main characteristics are: a bitter sense of humor, mainly with reference to erotism and social concerns; its lyrics are composed as groupings of ten-line strophes, each line made up of eight syllables;...

 during Italian government humanitarian mission "Missione Arcobaleno" in Albania
Albania
Albania , officially known as the Republic of Albania , is a country in Southeastern Europe, in the Balkans region. It is bordered by Montenegro to the northwest, Kosovo to the northeast, the Republic of Macedonia to the east and Greece to the south and southeast. It has a coast on the Adriatic Sea...

. An Eye hospital service, specialized in early Cataract treatment, has since been created in Alepe
Alépé
Alépé is a town in Alépé Department of Côte d'Ivoire . It is part of Lagunes Region....

, Ivory Coast to remember Castagna

Places and routes

  • Cristina Castagna peak, 5.311 metres (17.4 ft) Hindu Kush
    Hindu Kush
    The Hindu Kush is an mountain range that stretches between central Afghanistan and northern Pakistan. The highest point in the Hindu Kush is Tirich Mir in the Chitral region of Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.It is the westernmost extension of the Pamir Mountains, the Karakoram Range, and is a...

    , first ascent by Tarcisio Bellò, August 10, 2009
  • Cristina Castagna eye service, Alepè
    Alépé
    Alépé is a town in Alépé Department of Côte d'Ivoire . It is part of Lagunes Region....

    , Ivory Coast, an eye hospital.
  • Cristina Castagna mountaneering Center, Gothulti, Pakistan
    Pakistan
    Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...

    , in progress.
  • Via Fragile Esistenza (route in memory of Cristina), Campanile di Scagina, Piccole Dolomiti, Veneto
    Veneto
    Veneto is one of the 20 regions of Italy. Its population is about 5 million, ranking 5th in Italy.Veneto had been for more than a millennium an independent state, the Republic of Venice, until it was eventually annexed by Italy in 1866 after brief Austrian and French rule...

    , Italy
    Italy
    Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...

    . By Mario Brighente, Simone Gianesini, Bottegal, Gino Dal Cero,2009

Books

On 1, July 2010 CAI
Club Alpino Italiano
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment...

  Valdagno
Valdagno
-History:Valdagno's town was founded in 861, the name deriving from the Latin amins, then amnius, meaning "river". It is first mentioned in a 1184 document when it was a fief given by the Vicenza bishop to the Trissino family....

 and Recoaro Terme
Recoaro Terme
Recoaro Terme is a town and comune in the province of Vicenza, Veneto, Italy. It is known for his mineral spring waters: Lora is bottled and commercialized, while some of the others are used for hydrotherapy in Terme Recoaro Spa.-History:...

 sections published a biography by Massimo Fontana, on Castagna's life and achievements.

See also

  • Nives Meroi
    Nives Meroi
    Nives Meroi is an Italian mountaineer. As of 2008, she had climbed to the summit of eleven of the fourteen eight thousanders, utilizing the alpine style of climbing....

  • Edurne Pasaban
    Edurne Pasaban
    Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque Spanish mountaineer, from the province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country. On May 17, 2010, she became the 21st person and the first woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World...

  • Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
    Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
    Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders, and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen....

  • Iñaki Ochoa de Olza
    Iñaki Ochoa de Olza
    Iñaki Ochoa de Olza was a Spanish mountaineer, alpinist and climber. Ochoa de Olza had taken part in over thirty separate climbing expeditions in the Himalayas over the course of his career, he was involved in more than 200 expeditions as guide and he climbed 15 moutains of over 8,000 meters...

  • Broad Peak
    Broad Peak
    Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...


External links

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