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Broad Peak (originally named K3), known locally as Faichan Kangri, is the 12th highest
List of highest mountains

The following is a list of the world's 100+ highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. Only those summits are included that, by an objective measure, may be considered individual mountains as opposed to subsidiary peaks....
 mountain
Mountain

A mountain is a landform that stretches above the surrounding land in a limited area usually in the form of a peak. A mountain is generally steeper than a hill....
 on Earth
Earth

Earth is the third planet from the Sun. Earth is the largest of the terrestrial planets in the Solar System in diameter, mass and density. It is also referred to as the World and Wiktionary:Terra.Note that by International Astronomical Union convention, the term "Terra" is used for naming extensive land masses, rather...
. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Baltis.

Climbing history
The first ascent
First ascent

In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route....
 of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller

Fritz Wintersteller is an Austrian mountaineering who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck in 1957....
, Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck

Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineering. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan....
, Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger

Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books....
, and Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl

Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best post-World War II Austrian climbing and one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayas climbing....
 of an Austria
Austria

Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country in Central Europe. It borders both Germany and the Czech Republic to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the west....
n expedition led by Marcus Schmuck.






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Broad Peak (originally named K3), known locally as Faichan Kangri, is the 12th highest
List of highest mountains

The following is a list of the world's 100+ highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. Only those summits are included that, by an objective measure, may be considered individual mountains as opposed to subsidiary peaks....
 mountain
Mountain

A mountain is a landform that stretches above the surrounding land in a limited area usually in the form of a peak. A mountain is generally steeper than a hill....
 on Earth
Earth

Earth is the third planet from the Sun. Earth is the largest of the terrestrial planets in the Solar System in diameter, mass and density. It is also referred to as the World and Wiktionary:Terra.Note that by International Astronomical Union convention, the term "Terra" is used for naming extensive land masses, rather...
. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Baltis.

Geography


Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum
Gasherbrum

Gasherbrum is a remote group of mountain located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya. The massif contains three of the world's eight-thousander ....
 massif
Massif

In geology, a massif is a section of a planet's Crust that is demarcated by geologic faults or flexures. In the Plate tectonics, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole....
 on the border of Pakistan-China. It is located about 8 kilometres (5 miles) from K2
K2

K2 is the second-List of highest mountains mountain on Earth . With a peak elevation of , K2 is part of the Karakoram segment of the Himalayan mountain range, and is located on the border between Pakistan's northern territories, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China....
. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1˝ kilometres (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".

Climbing history


The first ascent
First ascent

In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route....
 of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller

Fritz Wintersteller is an Austrian mountaineering who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck in 1957....
, Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck

Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineering. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan....
, Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger

Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books....
, and Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl

Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best post-World War II Austrian climbing and one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayas climbing....
 of an Austria
Austria

Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country in Central Europe. It borders both Germany and the Czech Republic to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the west....
n expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.

On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent
First ascent

In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route....
 of Skil Brum
Skil Brum

Skil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
 peak (7,360m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style
Alpine style

Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficiency manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure....
 in 53 hours.

Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa
Chogolisa

Chogolisa is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world....
 peak (7,654m) on June 27, 1957.

In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak for retrieving the corpse of Markus Kronthaler
Markus Kronthaler

Markus Kronthaler was an Austrian mountaineer and climber.Kronthaler was born in Kufstein, Tyrol . He was an officer in the alpine section of Austria's Gendarmerie, which he left in 2003 to become a professional climber....
, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.

Time line

  • 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany
    Germany

    Germany , officially the Federal Republic of Germany , is a country in Central Europe. It is bordered to the north by the North Sea, Denmark, and the Baltic Sea; to the east by Poland and the Czech Republic; to the south by Austria and Switzerland; and to the west by France, Luxembourg, Belgium, and the Netherlands....
     on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
  • 1957 First ascent
  • 1983 Krystyna Palmowska (Poland
    Poland

    Poland , officially the Republic of Poland , is a country in Central Europe. Poland is bordered by Germany to the west; the Czech Republic and Slovakia to the south; Ukraine, Belarus and Lithuania to the east; and the Baltic Sea and Kaliningrad Oblast, a Russian Enclave and exclave, to the north....
    )- first female ascent
  • 1986 Between July 28th and August 4th, twelve out of fourteen Slovenian (then Yugoslavian) climbers successfully summited on Broad Peak. Marija Štremfelj was the first Slovenian/Yugoslavian woman to summit 8,000 m peak.


See also

  • List of mountains in Pakistan
    List of mountains in Pakistan

    Pakistan is home to 108 peaks above 7,000 metres. and probably as many peaks above 6,000 m. There is no count of the peaks above 5,000 and 4,000 m....
  • Highest Mountains of the World
    List of highest mountains

    The following is a list of the world's 100+ highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. Only those summits are included that, by an objective measure, may be considered individual mountains as opposed to subsidiary peaks....
  • List of Austrian mountaineers
    List of Austrian mountaineers

    This is a list of Austrian mountaineers. On 5 of the 14 Eight-thousanders Austrians have made the first ascent, more than any other nation can claim. Out of the total of 9 Austrian mountaineers who made first ascents of Eight-thousanders, 3 have been members of the Edelweiss Club Salzburg, an association of mountaineers founded in Salzburg in 1881...


Further reading


  • Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
  • Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl
    Hermann Buhl

    Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best post-World War II Austrian climbing and one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayas climbing....
    , 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
  • Zvezdnate noci (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelincic, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
  • Anna Czerwinska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5


External links