Kenton Cool
Encyclopedia
Kenton Cool is an English mountaineer
, alpinist
and UIAGM
mountain guide
. Kenton is one of Britain’s leading alpine climbers with record hard first ascents and nine successful Everest summits, including leading Sir Ranulph Fiennes' 2008 and 2009 Expeditions. Kenton has brought a fast and light approach to high altitude climbing in the Himalayas, often in totally committing situations, and has completed 18 successful expeditions in the Greater Ranges. Cool is married and lives in Quenington
in the UK and near Chamonix
in France.
in 1994 after studying BSc
Geological Sciences. Cool was first introduced to mountaineering at Scouts
where he read about the first ascent on Mount Everest
in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay
. An obsession with rock climbing developed at Leeds University and, on graduating, he moved to Sheffield to pursue this further. In 1996, he suffered a fall from a rock face and shattered both heel bones. A year of surgery and therapy saw him become determined to regain his climbing form and he joined the British Mountain Guides scheme. Cool is now based in the Alps
and Greater Ranges
of the Himalaya as a fully qualified IFMGA Guide and Expedition Leader.
In 2003, Cool was nominated alongside climbing partners for the Piolet d'Or
award for a route on Annapurna III.
In October 2006, Cool was the first British person to complete a ski descent of an 8,000 metre peak, on Cho Oyu
in Nepal, the 6th highest mountain in the World.
In March 2007, Cool led polar explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes on a successful attempt of the North face of The Eiger.
In May 2008, Cool and Fiennes attempted to summit Mount Everest but Fiennes turned back 300m from the top. In 2009, Cool returned to Everest and successfully led Sir Ranulph Fiennes to the top, making Kenton the most successful British Expedition Leader on the mountain.
As an Expedition Leader, Cool has completed 18 successful expeditions in the Greater Ranges. His Everest record stands testament to this, holding the highest success rate of any Mountain Guide. He has personally reached the summit of Everest nine times, in May 2007 he summitted twice in one week.
In 2006, as part of his expedition to Nepal, he made the first British ski descent of an 8000m peak, Cho Oyu is the 6th highest mountain in the world and the ski was done solo.
As well as 9 ascents of Everest, he has led further successful expeditions on the following significant mountains around the world: Kilimanjaro, Denali in North America, Ama Dablam in Nepal, Cho Oyu in Nepal/Tibet.
In the autumn of 2010 Kenton made the 3rd ever ski descent of Manaslu in Nepal, the worlds 8th highest mountain. In doing so become one of only a few people world wide to ski multiple 8000m peaks.
and The Discovery Channel
.
As part of Cool's 2007 Everest expedition, Kenton took part in filming for the five-part BBC Television
documentary Everest ER. As well as providing extensive interview material for the documentary, Kenton was also given specialist high-altitude camera equipment to capture footage high on the mountain, including summit footage. Everest ER followed Kenton's expedition as it unfolded, which included his double summit in one week. The programme was aired over five weeks on BBC1.
in Gloucestershire
in the UK.
charity.
In May 2008, Cool and Sir Ranulph Fiennes raised a further £2.6 million for the Marie Curie charity as part of the Everest Challenge Appeal. Kenton summited with the Marie Curie flag.
Annually, Cool provides a series of speaking events for the Royal Geographical Society
and various outdoor clothing manufacturers and retailers as well as keynote speeches at corporate conferences. He is also regularly invited to sit on specialist panels. At these events, he heavily supports and promotes Porters Progress, a foundation set up to support the mountain portering community in Nepal. Porters Progress is now part of the dZi Foundation
Porters' Progress UK is now a UK-based charity.
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
, alpinist
Alpinist
Alpinist is a quarterly American magazine focused on mountaineering ascents worldwide. It was originally published out of Jackson, Wyoming and was founded in 2002...
and UIAGM
UIAGM
The Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes is the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, known alternatively by its French, German and English abbreviations:...
mountain guide
Mountain guide
Mountain guides are specially trained and experienced mountaineers and professionals who are generally certified by an association. They are considered experts in mountaineering.-Skills:Their skills usually include climbing, skiing and hiking...
. Kenton is one of Britain’s leading alpine climbers with record hard first ascents and nine successful Everest summits, including leading Sir Ranulph Fiennes' 2008 and 2009 Expeditions. Kenton has brought a fast and light approach to high altitude climbing in the Himalayas, often in totally committing situations, and has completed 18 successful expeditions in the Greater Ranges. Cool is married and lives in Quenington
Quenington
Quenington is a village and civil parish in the Cotswold district of Gloucestershire, England, about eight miles east of Cirencester. According to the 2001 census it had a population of 566.Dom Joly is a resident of Quenington....
in the UK and near Chamonix
Chamonix
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc or, more commonly, Chamonix is a commune in the Haute-Savoie département in the Rhône-Alpes region in south-eastern France. It was the site of the 1924 Winter Olympics, the first Winter Olympics...
in France.
Biography
Kenton Cool graduated from the University of LeedsUniversity of Leeds
The University of Leeds is a British Redbrick university located in the city of Leeds, West Yorkshire, England...
in 1994 after studying BSc
Bachelor of Science
A Bachelor of Science is an undergraduate academic degree awarded for completed courses that generally last three to five years .-Australia:In Australia, the BSc is a 3 year degree, offered from 1st year on...
Geological Sciences. Cool was first introduced to mountaineering at Scouts
The Scout Association
The Scout Association is the World Organization of the Scout Movement recognised Scouting association in the United Kingdom. Scouting began in 1907 through the efforts of Robert Baden-Powell. The Scout Association was formed under its previous name, The Boy Scout Association, in 1910 by the grant...
where he read about the first ascent on Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay
Tenzing Norgay
Padma Bhushan, Supradipta-Manyabara-Nepal-Tara Tenzing Norgay, GM born Namgyal Wangdi and often referred to as Sherpa Tenzing, was a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer...
. An obsession with rock climbing developed at Leeds University and, on graduating, he moved to Sheffield to pursue this further. In 1996, he suffered a fall from a rock face and shattered both heel bones. A year of surgery and therapy saw him become determined to regain his climbing form and he joined the British Mountain Guides scheme. Cool is now based in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
and Greater Ranges
Greater Ranges
The Greater Ranges comprise the high mountain ranges of Asia:*the Himalayas,*the Karakoram,*the Hindu Kush and Hindu Raj,*the Pamir Mountains,*the Tien Shan,*the Kunlun Shan,...
of the Himalaya as a fully qualified IFMGA Guide and Expedition Leader.
In 2003, Cool was nominated alongside climbing partners for the Piolet d'Or
Piolet d'Or
The Piolet d'Or is an annual mountaineering award given by the French magazine Montagnes and The Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1991...
award for a route on Annapurna III.
In October 2006, Cool was the first British person to complete a ski descent of an 8,000 metre peak, on Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
in Nepal, the 6th highest mountain in the World.
In March 2007, Cool led polar explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes on a successful attempt of the North face of The Eiger.
In May 2008, Cool and Fiennes attempted to summit Mount Everest but Fiennes turned back 300m from the top. In 2009, Cool returned to Everest and successfully led Sir Ranulph Fiennes to the top, making Kenton the most successful British Expedition Leader on the mountain.
As an Expedition Leader, Cool has completed 18 successful expeditions in the Greater Ranges. His Everest record stands testament to this, holding the highest success rate of any Mountain Guide. He has personally reached the summit of Everest nine times, in May 2007 he summitted twice in one week.
Major ascents
| Major ascents | ||
|---|---|---|
| Mountain/location | Route | Ascent info. |
| Mount Hunter Mount Hunter (Alaska) Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. It is approximately 8 miles south of Mount McKinley, or Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child in the Dena'ina language... Alaska Alaska Alaska is the largest state in the United States by area. It is situated in the northwest extremity of the North American continent, with Canada to the east, the Arctic Ocean to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, with Russia further west across the Bering Strait... |
Moonflower Butress | 1st British United Kingdom The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages... ascent |
| Mount Hunter Mount Hunter (Alaska) Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. It is approximately 8 miles south of Mount McKinley, or Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child in the Dena'ina language... Alaska Alaska Alaska is the largest state in the United States by area. It is situated in the northwest extremity of the North American continent, with Canada to the east, the Arctic Ocean to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, with Russia further west across the Bering Strait... |
Mini Moonflower | 1st ascent |
| Denali Alaska Alaska Alaska is the largest state in the United States by area. It is situated in the northwest extremity of the North American continent, with Canada to the east, the Arctic Ocean to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, with Russia further west across the Bering Strait... |
Extra Terrestrial Brothers, Father and Son's Wall | 1st ascent |
| Denali Alaska Alaska Alaska is the largest state in the United States by area. It is situated in the northwest extremity of the North American continent, with Canada to the east, the Arctic Ocean to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, with Russia further west across the Bering Strait... |
Denali Diamond, SW Face | 2nd ascent |
| Arwa Spire Arwa Group The Arwa Group is a set of three Himalayan peaks, named Arwa Tower, Arwa Crest, and Arwa Spire, situated in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand state, in northern India. They are situated on the south side of the southwest branch of the Arwa Valley, south of the dry lake Arwa Tal, and northwest of... India India India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world... |
Awra Spire route unknown | 1st ascent |
| Annapurna III Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
SW Ridge | 1st ascent |
| Grande Jorasses France France The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France... /Italy Italy Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and... |
L'Olan couloir Couloir A couloir is a narrow gully with a steep gradient in a mountainous terrain. A couloir may be a seam, scar, or fissure, or vertical crevasse in an otherwise solid mountain mass... |
1st ascent |
Expedition career
Kenton is considered one of the UK's top mountain and ski expedition leaders having made several ascents of hard routes with clients, including the first British guided ascent of the famous North Face of the Eiger with Sir Ranulph Fiennes in 2007.In 2006, as part of his expedition to Nepal, he made the first British ski descent of an 8000m peak, Cho Oyu is the 6th highest mountain in the world and the ski was done solo.
As well as 9 ascents of Everest, he has led further successful expeditions on the following significant mountains around the world: Kilimanjaro, Denali in North America, Ama Dablam in Nepal, Cho Oyu in Nepal/Tibet.
In the autumn of 2010 Kenton made the 3rd ever ski descent of Manaslu in Nepal, the worlds 8th highest mountain. In doing so become one of only a few people world wide to ski multiple 8000m peaks.
Television work
As part of the Eiger expedition in 2007, ITN set up a simulcast at the foot of the mountain, allowing Cool, Fiennes and Parnell to broadcast live from the mountain face and straight into the ITN News studio. Their summit attempt was broadcast on each live news section for five days. A further one-hour documentary of the successful climb was aired on BBC FourBBC Four
BBC Four is a British television network operated by the British Broadcasting Corporation and available to digital television viewers on Freeview, IPTV, satellite and cable....
and The Discovery Channel
Discovery Channel
Discovery Channel is an American satellite and cable specialty channel , founded by John Hendricks and distributed by Discovery Communications. It is a publicly traded company run by CEO David Zaslav...
.
As part of Cool's 2007 Everest expedition, Kenton took part in filming for the five-part BBC Television
BBC Television
BBC Television is a service of the British Broadcasting Corporation. The corporation, which has operated in the United Kingdom under the terms of a Royal Charter since 1927, has produced television programmes from its own studios since 1932, although the start of its regular service of television...
documentary Everest ER. As well as providing extensive interview material for the documentary, Kenton was also given specialist high-altitude camera equipment to capture footage high on the mountain, including summit footage. Everest ER followed Kenton's expedition as it unfolded, which included his double summit in one week. The programme was aired over five weeks on BBC1.
Personal life
Married to Jazz in 2008, with one daughter Saffron born in 2010. Kenton currently splits his time between the small village of Mont Saxonnex in the French Alps where he spends his time working as a director of Dream Guides a Chamonix based guiding company and alpine guide, and the village of QueningtonQuenington
Quenington is a village and civil parish in the Cotswold district of Gloucestershire, England, about eight miles east of Cirencester. According to the 2001 census it had a population of 566.Dom Joly is a resident of Quenington....
in Gloucestershire
Gloucestershire
Gloucestershire is a county in South West England. The county comprises part of the Cotswold Hills, part of the flat fertile valley of the River Severn, and the entire Forest of Dean....
in the UK.
Charitable activity
In March 2007, Cool was part of a three-man team (including Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Ian Parnell) to raise funds for the Marie Curie Eiger Challenge Appeal. A successful summit of the North Face of the Eiger raised £1.8 million for the Marie Curie Cancer CareMarie Curie Cancer Care
Marie Curie Cancer Care is a charitable organisation in the United Kingdom which provides nursing care, free of charge, to terminally ill people, giving them the chance to choose to be cared for at home...
charity.
In May 2008, Cool and Sir Ranulph Fiennes raised a further £2.6 million for the Marie Curie charity as part of the Everest Challenge Appeal. Kenton summited with the Marie Curie flag.
Annually, Cool provides a series of speaking events for the Royal Geographical Society
Royal Geographical Society
The Royal Geographical Society is a British learned society founded in 1830 for the advancement of geographical sciences...
and various outdoor clothing manufacturers and retailers as well as keynote speeches at corporate conferences. He is also regularly invited to sit on specialist panels. At these events, he heavily supports and promotes Porters Progress, a foundation set up to support the mountain portering community in Nepal. Porters Progress is now part of the dZi Foundation
Porters' Progress UK is now a UK-based charity.