Andrew Lock
Encyclopedia
Andrew James Lock OAM
(born 26 December 1961) is Australia’s most accomplished high altitude mountaineer. He completed his personal mountaineering project to be the first Australian to climb all fourteen "eight-thousanders" (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level) in October 2009. In all he has climbed all 14 8000m peaks, with 18 personal 8000 metre summits, having climbed several twice. Andrew also has climbed to both summits of Shishapangma (most climb to the false summit and only very few have completed the 14 x 8000m by climbing to the true summit of Shishapangma)
His preferred climbing style is in small teams, climbing without sherpa support or auxiliary oxygen and along the way he has achieved five first Australian ascents (Dhaulagiri
, Nanga Parbat
, Hidden Peak, Manaslu
and Annapurna
) and three solo ascents (Lhotse
, Broad Peak
and Cho Oyu
). He has summited Mt Everest, twice.
His first 8000 metre summit was of K2
, which he climbed in 1993 with a small team that included Anatoli Boukreev
. The mountain lived up to its fearsome reputation when two of his climbing partners were killed in separate falls and Lock rescued a Swedish climber. In 2004, he was a climber and cinematographer for the Discovery Channel six part mini series, Ultimate Survival – Everest, which has been broadcast on multiple occasions throughout North America. On that expedition, Lock personally rescued 3 members of other teams coming down from the summit, giving up his own oxygen along the way.
Lock has climbed with many of the world’s best, including Anatoli Boukreev
(K2
in 1993), Göran Kropp
(Broad Peak
in 1994), Doug Scott and Wojciech Kurtyka
(Nanga Parbat
Mazeno Ridge in 1995) & Ivan Vallejo and Inaki Ochoa (Annapurna
2007).
In 2009 Andrew Lock was awarded the Australian Geographic Society's Adventurer of the year award.
In May 2011 Lock's attempt to summit Everest without supplementary oxygen reportedly was unsuccessful due to high winds and blizzard conditions.
On 13 June 2011, Lock was awarded the Medal of the Order of Australia
for service to mountaineering.
Order of Australia
The Order of Australia is an order of chivalry established on 14 February 1975 by Elizabeth II, Queen of Australia, "for the purpose of according recognition to Australian citizens and other persons for achievement or for meritorious service"...
(born 26 December 1961) is Australia’s most accomplished high altitude mountaineer. He completed his personal mountaineering project to be the first Australian to climb all fourteen "eight-thousanders" (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level) in October 2009. In all he has climbed all 14 8000m peaks, with 18 personal 8000 metre summits, having climbed several twice. Andrew also has climbed to both summits of Shishapangma (most climb to the false summit and only very few have completed the 14 x 8000m by climbing to the true summit of Shishapangma)
His preferred climbing style is in small teams, climbing without sherpa support or auxiliary oxygen and along the way he has achieved five first Australian ascents (Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....
, Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters...
, Hidden Peak, Manaslu
Manaslu
Manaslu , also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, and is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "Mountain of the Spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul"...
and Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
) and three solo ascents (Lhotse
Lhotse
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...
, Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
and Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
). He has summited Mt Everest, twice.
His first 8000 metre summit was of K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
, which he climbed in 1993 with a small team that included Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev, , was a Kazakhstani climber who made ascents of seven of the 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. In total he made 18 successful ascents on peaks above 8000 m . Boukreev was lost under an avalanche on Annapurna...
. The mountain lived up to its fearsome reputation when two of his climbing partners were killed in separate falls and Lock rescued a Swedish climber. In 2004, he was a climber and cinematographer for the Discovery Channel six part mini series, Ultimate Survival – Everest, which has been broadcast on multiple occasions throughout North America. On that expedition, Lock personally rescued 3 members of other teams coming down from the summit, giving up his own oxygen along the way.
Lock has climbed with many of the world’s best, including Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev, , was a Kazakhstani climber who made ascents of seven of the 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. In total he made 18 successful ascents on peaks above 8000 m . Boukreev was lost under an avalanche on Annapurna...
(K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
in 1993), Göran Kropp
Göran Kropp
Göran Kropp was a Swedish adventurer and mountaineer, born in Eskilstuna in south Sweden. He is most famous for his May 23, 1996 solo ascent of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support, travelling only by bicycle from Sweden.-Early life:In 1972, at the age of 6, Kropp's father took...
(Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
in 1994), Doug Scott and Wojciech Kurtyka
Wojciech Kurtyka
Wojciech Kurtyka is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges....
(Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters...
Mazeno Ridge in 1995) & Ivan Vallejo and Inaki Ochoa (Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
2007).
In 2009 Andrew Lock was awarded the Australian Geographic Society's Adventurer of the year award.
In May 2011 Lock's attempt to summit Everest without supplementary oxygen reportedly was unsuccessful due to high winds and blizzard conditions.
On 13 June 2011, Lock was awarded the Medal of the Order of Australia
Order of Australia
The Order of Australia is an order of chivalry established on 14 February 1975 by Elizabeth II, Queen of Australia, "for the purpose of according recognition to Australian citizens and other persons for achievement or for meritorious service"...
for service to mountaineering.
8000 metre accomplishments
- 1993 K2K2K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
(8,611 metres) - 1st Australian ascent via Pakistan - 1997 DhaulagiriDhaulagiriDhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....
(8,167 metres) - 1st Australian ascent - 1997 Broad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
(8,048 metres) – Solo ascent - 1998 Nanga ParbatNanga ParbatNanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters...
(8,125 metres) - 1st Australian ascent - 1999 Hidden Peak (8,068 metres) - 1st Australian ascent
- 1999 Gasherbrum IIGasherbrum IIGasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China...
(8,035 metres) - Alpine style ascent - 2000 Everest (8,850 metres) - 1st Australian to lead a commercial expedition to the summit of Mt Everest
- 2002 ManasluManasluManaslu , also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, and is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "Mountain of the Spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul"...
(8,163 metres) - 1st Australian ascent - 2002 LhotseLhotseLhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...
(8,450 metres) - solo ascent - 2003 Shishapangma CentralShishapangmaXixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...
(8,008 metres) - solo ascent - 2004 Everest (8,848 metres) - 2nd personal ascent - Discovery channel expedition climber and cameraman
- 2004 Cho OyuCho OyuCho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
(8,201 metres) - solo ascent - 2005 Cho OyuCho OyuCho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
(8,201 metres) - 2nd personal ascent – commercial expedition leader - 2005 Shishapangma CentralShishapangmaXixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...
(8008 metres) - 2nd personal ascent - commercial expedition leader - 2006 Kanchenjunga (8,596 metres) - 2nd Australian ascent
- 2007 AnnapurnaAnnapurnaAnnapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
(8,091 metres) - 1st Australian ascent - 2008 MakaluMakaluMakalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...
(8,496 metres) - - 2009 ShishapangmaShishapangmaXixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...
Main Summit (8,027 metres) -