Yves Saint-Laurent
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent is a
French fashion designer.
Encyclopedia
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent is a
French fashion designer.
Early career
Born to insurance-company manager Charles Saint-Laurent and his socialite wife, Lucienne Mathieu, members of a family from
Alsace-Lorraine that settled in North Africa during the
Franco-Prussian War, Saint Laurent left home at the age of 17 to work for the designer
Christian Dior. Following the death of Dior in 1957, Saint-Laurent at the age of 21 was put in charge of the effort of saving the Dior house from financial ruin. Saint-Laurent's started his own couture house, which was financed by his lover Pierre Bergé in 1962. The couple split romantically in 1976 but remained business partners.
Military service
Shortly after this success he was conscripted to serve in the French army during the
Algerian war of independence. After 20 days the stress of being hazed by fellow soldiers led the fragile Saint Laurent to be institutionalized in a French
mental hospital, where he underwent psychiatric treatment, including electroshock therapy, for a
nervous breakdown.
The House of Yves Saint-Laurent
In the wake of his nervous breakdown, Saint Laurent was released from Dior and started his own label together with Pierre Bergé with the now-famous initials of YSL. During the 1960s and 1970s the firm popularized fashion trends such as the
beatnik look, tweed suits, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots, including the creation of arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women in 1966, the
Le Smoking suit. Among his muses were Loulou de La Falaise, the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish fashion model, Betty Catroux, the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat and wife of a French decorator, Talitha Pol-Getty, who died of drug overdose in 1971, and
Catherine Deneuve, the iconic French actress. Ambassador to the couturier during the late 1970s and early 80s was London socialite millionairess Diane Boulting-Casserley Vandelli, making the brand ever more popular amongst the European jet-set and upper classes.
In 1993, the Saint-Laurent fashion house was sold to the pharmaceuticals company Sanofi for approximately $600,000,000. In 1999,
Gucci bought the YSL brand and
Tom Ford designed the ready-to-wear collection while Saint-Laurent designed the haute couture collection. Since his retirement in 1998 Saint-Laurent has become increasingly reclusive and has spent a much of his time at his house in
Marrakech,
Morocco.
In 2002, dogged by years of poor health, drug abuse, depression, alcoholism, criticisms of YSL designs, and problems with lead designer
Tom Ford, Saint-Laurent and
Gucci closed the illustrious couture house of YSL. While the house no longer exists the brand still survives through its parent company Gucci.
The pret-a-porter line is still being produced under the direction of Stefano Pilati after
Tom Ford retired in 2004, while the
boxer briefs sold all over the world still carry the brand name.
Trivia
- Was the first living fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Circa 1983.
- In the documentary Paris is Burning, one drag house used Saint Laurent as its "family" name.
See also
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References
- Pierre Berge . Yves Saint Laurent: The Universe of Fashion. Rizzoli. ISBN 0-7893-0067-2
- Alice Rawsthorn . Yves Saint Laurent Nan A. Talese. ISBN 0-385-47645-0
- —BBC World October 31, 2002
- — Jim Leherer News Hour January 16,2002 By Jessica Moore
- —CNN January 7, 2002
- —Julie K.L. Dam, Time Magazine, August 3 1998.
External links
