Peter Boardman
Encyclopedia
Peter Boardman was a British climber
, Everest
summiteer, and author of several mountaineering books.
, England
, and attended Stockport Grammar School
, where he now has a climbing wall dedicated to his name. He began climbing in his teens, and at the age of 16 made his first visit to the Alps
. He studied English at the University of Nottingham
, where he was President of the Mountaineering Club, and quickly became a proficient Alpine climber, and made the first British ascents of the North Face Direct of the Olan, the North Face of the Nesthorn and the North Face Direct of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn.
of Afghanistan
, climbing the North Face of Koh-I-Khaaik and making the first ascent of Kohi-Mundi. After Nottingham, Peter studied for a diploma in education at the University of Wales, Bangor, where he learnt some Welsh. He became a British mountain guide
, and worked for the British Mountaineering Council
. He was subsequently President of the British Association of Mountain Guides and Director of the International School of Mountaineering at Leysin
.
A number of expeditions followed and, in 1975, he reached the summit of Mount Everest
via the south-west face, as part of the second assault team, on an expedition on which fellow climber Mick Burke
was killed.
In 1976 he joined forces with Joe Tasker
and climbed the west face of Changabang
, at its time probably the hardest Himalayan climb in the world. His book about the experience, The Shining Mountain, is one of the outstanding works of mountaineering literature, and won the 1979 John Llewellyn Rhys Prize
for literature.
After a failed attempt at K2
, in which climber Nick Estcourt
was killed in an avalanche, Boardman successfully climbed Kangchenjunga
in 1979 via the north ridge. He returned to K2 in 1980, reaching a height of 7975 metres.
He made the first ascent of Kongur Tagh
in 1981 with Chris Bonington
, Al Rouse, and Joe Tasker
.
. In 1992 Boardman's body was found by climbers from Kazakhstan in a sitting position near the Second Pinnacle "looking like he was asleep". Boardman's body was identified through photographs by relatives in the UK.
A second book Sacred Summits, detailing his climbing exploits of 1979, was published posthumously. The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
was established in memory of him and Joe Tasker, also a gifted writer.
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
, Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
summiteer, and author of several mountaineering books.
Early life
Boardman was born in StockportStockport
Stockport is a town in Greater Manchester, England. It lies on elevated ground southeast of Manchester city centre, at the point where the rivers Goyt and Tame join and create the River Mersey. Stockport is the largest settlement in the metropolitan borough of the same name...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
, and attended Stockport Grammar School
Stockport Grammar School
Stockport Grammar School is a co-educational independent school in Stockport, England, founded in 1487 by the 1482 Lord Mayor of London Sir Edmund Shaa.The school motto is "Vincit qui patitur" – He who endures, conquers....
, where he now has a climbing wall dedicated to his name. He began climbing in his teens, and at the age of 16 made his first visit to the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
. He studied English at the University of Nottingham
University of Nottingham
The University of Nottingham is a public research university based in Nottingham, United Kingdom, with further campuses in Ningbo, China and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia...
, where he was President of the Mountaineering Club, and quickly became a proficient Alpine climber, and made the first British ascents of the North Face Direct of the Olan, the North Face of the Nesthorn and the North Face Direct of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn.
Expeditions
He undertook his first expedition to the Hindu KushHindu Kush
The Hindu Kush is an mountain range that stretches between central Afghanistan and northern Pakistan. The highest point in the Hindu Kush is Tirich Mir in the Chitral region of Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.It is the westernmost extension of the Pamir Mountains, the Karakoram Range, and is a...
of Afghanistan
Afghanistan
Afghanistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan, is a landlocked country located in the centre of Asia, forming South Asia, Central Asia and the Middle East. With a population of about 29 million, it has an area of , making it the 42nd most populous and 41st largest nation in the world...
, climbing the North Face of Koh-I-Khaaik and making the first ascent of Kohi-Mundi. After Nottingham, Peter studied for a diploma in education at the University of Wales, Bangor, where he learnt some Welsh. He became a British mountain guide
Mountain guide
Mountain guides are specially trained and experienced mountaineers and professionals who are generally certified by an association. They are considered experts in mountaineering.-Skills:Their skills usually include climbing, skiing and hiking...
, and worked for the British Mountaineering Council
British Mountaineering Council
The British Mountaineering Council is the national representative body for England and Wales that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers...
. He was subsequently President of the British Association of Mountain Guides and Director of the International School of Mountaineering at Leysin
Leysin
Leysin is a municipality of the canton of Vaud in Switzerland, located in the district of Aigle.-History:Leysin is first mentioned around 1231-32 as Leissins. In 1352 it was mentioned as Leisins.-Geography:...
.
A number of expeditions followed and, in 1975, he reached the summit of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
via the south-west face, as part of the second assault team, on an expedition on which fellow climber Mick Burke
Mick Burke (mountaineer)
Mick Burke was an English mountaineer and climbing cameraman, who covered many British-led mountaineering expeditions during the 1960s and 1970s. These included expeditions led by Chris Bonington to Annapurna and an unsuccessful attempt on Mount Everest's south-west face in 1972.Burke was part of...
was killed.
In 1976 he joined forces with Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker was one of the most talented British climbers during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family, he was one of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence, Middlesbrough then attended Ushaw Seminary, County Durham between the ages of 13...
and climbed the west face of Changabang
Changabang
Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs...
, at its time probably the hardest Himalayan climb in the world. His book about the experience, The Shining Mountain, is one of the outstanding works of mountaineering literature, and won the 1979 John Llewellyn Rhys Prize
John Llewellyn Rhys Prize
The John Llewellyn Rhys Prize is a literary prize awarded annually for the best work of literature by an author from the Commonwealth aged 35 or under, written in English and published in the United Kingdom...
for literature.
After a failed attempt at K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
, in which climber Nick Estcourt
Nick Estcourt
Nick Estcourt , educated at Eastbourne College, was an outstanding British climber killed on K2 by an avalanche on the West Ridge route...
was killed in an avalanche, Boardman successfully climbed Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
in 1979 via the north ridge. He returned to K2 in 1980, reaching a height of 7975 metres.
He made the first ascent of Kongur Tagh
Kongur Tagh
Kongur Tagh or Kongkoerh is at 7,649 m the highest mountain wholly within the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.-Geography:...
in 1981 with Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna.-Early life and expeditions:Educated at University College School in...
, Al Rouse, and Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker was one of the most talented British climbers during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family, he was one of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence, Middlesbrough then attended Ushaw Seminary, County Durham between the ages of 13...
.
Death
He was killed on the north-north-east ridge of Mount Everest in 1982, along with his climbing partner Joe TaskerJoe Tasker
Joe Tasker was one of the most talented British climbers during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family, he was one of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence, Middlesbrough then attended Ushaw Seminary, County Durham between the ages of 13...
. In 1992 Boardman's body was found by climbers from Kazakhstan in a sitting position near the Second Pinnacle "looking like he was asleep". Boardman's body was identified through photographs by relatives in the UK.
A second book Sacred Summits, detailing his climbing exploits of 1979, was published posthumously. The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature is an annual prize of £3000 awarded by the Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust to an author or authors for 'an original work which has made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature.' It was established in memory of Peter Boardman and Joe...
was established in memory of him and Joe Tasker, also a gifted writer.
External links
- Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
- José Luis Bermúdez, ‘Boardman, Peter David (1950–1982)’, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Oxford University Press, Sept 2004; online edn, May 2006