Julie Tullis
Encyclopedia
Julie Tullis was a British
climber
and film-maker who died on the descent of K2
during a storm along with four other climbers from several expeditions during the 'Black Summer' of 1986.
. In 1956 she began climbing near Tunbridge Wells
, where she met Terry Tullis. In 1959 they were married and spent the following years running various small businesses. They also continued climbing, in addition to which Julie studied aikido
.
in 1976, and by 1980 they were working together on lecture tours. In 1981 Diemberger hired Tullis as a technician for an expedition to Nanga Parbat
, and their high-altitude filming career began. It would include, in the following years, expeditions to the North ridge of K2
and the unclimbed North-East ridge of Mount Everest
. In 1984 Tullis and Diemberger climbed Broad Peak
(K3) and after more film work they went on an expedition to climb K2 in 1986.
Arriving at Camp IV they found themselves trapped in the tents by a storm that would last for several days. All the trapped climbers deteriorated physically and mentally, lacking food, sleep, oxygen and, once the gas for the stoves ran out, the ability to melt snow and produce water. This in turn made them vulnerable to pulmonary or cerebral oedema, which in Tullis' condition would have been rapidly fatal.
Julie Tullis died on the night of 6/7 August (the accounts of Diemberger and another climber present, Willi Bauer, differ on the exact date) and was buried on the mountainside.
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages...
climber
Climber
Climber may refer to:*Climber, a participant in the activity of climbing*Climber, general name for a vine*Climber , a robot that goes upward or downward on a track*Climber , by Nintendo...
and film-maker who died on the descent of K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
during a storm along with four other climbers from several expeditions during the 'Black Summer' of 1986.
Early life
Born to parents Erica and Francis Palau, Julie had a disrupted early life due to the outbreak of World War IIWorld War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...
. In 1956 she began climbing near Tunbridge Wells
Royal Tunbridge Wells
Royal Tunbridge Wells is a town in west Kent, England, about south-east of central London by road, by rail. The town is close to the border of the county of East Sussex...
, where she met Terry Tullis. In 1959 they were married and spent the following years running various small businesses. They also continued climbing, in addition to which Julie studied aikido
Aikido
is a Japanese martial art developed by Morihei Ueshiba as a synthesis of his martial studies, philosophy, and religious beliefs. Aikido is often translated as "the Way of unifying life energy" or as "the Way of harmonious spirit." Ueshiba's goal was to create an art that practitioners could use to...
.
Career
Julie met Austrian climber Kurt DiembergerKurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent...
in 1976, and by 1980 they were working together on lecture tours. In 1981 Diemberger hired Tullis as a technician for an expedition to Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters...
, and their high-altitude filming career began. It would include, in the following years, expeditions to the North ridge of K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
and the unclimbed North-East ridge of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
. In 1984 Tullis and Diemberger climbed Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
(K3) and after more film work they went on an expedition to climb K2 in 1986.
K2, Mountain of Mountains
Although Tullis and Diemberger finally made the summit on August 4, 1986, making Tullis the first British woman to do so, they were exhausted from several days above 8,000m. On the descent, Tullis slipped and fell; although Diemberger's belay was successful in saving them both, it is likely that Tullis suffered internal or head injuries that began to affect her vision and co-ordination.Arriving at Camp IV they found themselves trapped in the tents by a storm that would last for several days. All the trapped climbers deteriorated physically and mentally, lacking food, sleep, oxygen and, once the gas for the stoves ran out, the ability to melt snow and produce water. This in turn made them vulnerable to pulmonary or cerebral oedema, which in Tullis' condition would have been rapidly fatal.
Julie Tullis died on the night of 6/7 August (the accounts of Diemberger and another climber present, Willi Bauer, differ on the exact date) and was buried on the mountainside.