Jokduri
Encyclopedia
A jokduri is a type of Korea
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...

n traditional coronet
Coronet
A coronet is a small crown consisting of ornaments fixed on a metal ring. Unlike a crown, a coronet never has arches.The word stems from the Old French coronete, a diminutive of coronne , itself from the Latin corona .Traditionally, such headgear is – as indicated by the German equivalent...

 worn by women for special occasions such as weddings. It consists of an outer crown which is covered with black silk
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...

, and the inner which is filled with cotton and hard paper. Its top is decorated with cloisonné
Cloisonné
Cloisonné is an ancient technique for decorating metalwork objects, in recent centuries using vitreous enamel, and in older periods also inlays of cut gemstones, glass, and other materials. The resulting objects can also be called cloisonné...

 ornaments. The crown is also called jokdu or jokgwan and is used mostly as an accessory. The upper part is vaguely hexagonal and the bottom is cylindrical. The form of jokduri gets narrower from the top to the bottom.
jokduri can be used to display the wearer's social status by being adorned with accessories made from gold or silver.

History

It is said that the jokduri was derived from the Mongolian woman's cap for outing, the gogori in the late Goryeo period. It began to be used in that period as intermarriages between Goryeo and the Yuan Dynasty
Yuan Dynasty
The Yuan Dynasty , or Great Yuan Empire was a ruling dynasty founded by the Mongol leader Kublai Khan, who ruled most of present-day China, all of modern Mongolia and its surrounding areas, lasting officially from 1271 to 1368. It is considered both as a division of the Mongol Empire and as an...

 of China
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...

 happened. However, the jokduri during the Goryeo period is assumed to be bigger and higher than the one in the Joseon period.
During the Joseon Dynasty, the jokduri became smaller and there was not much difference in the overall shape between the top and the bottom. During the reign of King Gwanghaegun, black silk began to be used for the covering whereas purple silk was used as the inner fabric. Thereafter, as women enjoyed wearing a jokduri, it became almost a national style in fashion. In the late Joseon period, King Yeongjo (r. 1724-1776) and Jeongjo
Jeongjo of Joseon
King Jeongjo was the 22nd ruler of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. He made various attempts to reform and improve the nation of Joseon. He was preceded by his grandfather King Yeongjo and succeeded by his son King Sunjo...

 (r. 1776–1800) prohibited women from wearing gache
Gache
Gache is a big wig worn by Korean women. Women of high social backgrounds and gisaeng wore wigs . Like their western contemporaries Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more aesthetic...

(wigs) and, instead, encouraged them to wear jokduri. In 1788, the twelfth year of King Jeongjo's reign, he published an interdictory decree on jokduri, a prohibition against excessive usage of cloisonné, and the designation of black for the inner material such as cotton, and bamboo.

See also

  • Hwagwan
    Hwagwan
    Hwagwan is a type of Korean coronet worn by women, traditionally for ceremonial occasions such as weddings. It is similar to thejokduri in shape and function, but the hwagan is more elaborate....

  • Ayam
    Ayam (cap)
    An ayam is a Korean traditional winter cap mostly worn by women in the Joseon period for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo wore ayam in...

  • Gache
    Gache
    Gache is a big wig worn by Korean women. Women of high social backgrounds and gisaeng wore wigs . Like their western contemporaries Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more aesthetic...

  • Hanbok
    Hanbok
    Hanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...

  • Hwarot
    Hwarot
    Hwarot is a type of traditional Korean clothing worn during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty by royal women for ceremonial occasions or by commoners for weddings. It originated from the Kingdom of Khotan, Central Asia....

  • Headgear
    Headgear
    Headgear, headwear or headdress is the name given to any element of clothing which is worn on one's head.Headgear serve a variety of purposes:...

  • Crown
    Crown (headgear)
    A crown is the traditional symbolic form of headgear worn by a monarch or by a deity, for whom the crown traditionally represents power, legitimacy, immortality, righteousness, victory, triumph, resurrection, honour and glory of life after death. In art, the crown may be shown being offered to...

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