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Katazome

 

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Katazome



 
 
Katazome is a Japanese
Japan

Japan is an island country in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, People's Republic of China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south....
 method of dyeing
Dyeing

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye....
 fabrics using a resist paste
Paste (rheology)

In physics, a paste is a substance that behaves as a solid until a sufficiently large load or stress is applied, at which point it flows like a fluid....
 applied through a stencil
Stencil

A stencil is a wikt:template used to drawing or painting identical Letter , symbols, shapes, or patterns every time it is used. Stencil technique in visual art is also referred to as pochoir....
. With this kind of resist dyeing, a rice
Rice

Rice is a staple food for a large part of the world's human population, especially in tropical Latin America, and East Asia, South Asia and Southeast Asia, making it the second-most consumed cereal grain, after maize....
 flour
Flour

Flour is a powder made of cereal grains. It is the main ingredient of bread, which is a staple food for many civilizations, making the availability of adequate supplies of flour a major economic and political issue at various times throughout history....
 mixture is applied using a brush or a tool such as a palette knife
Palette knife

A palette knife is a blunt knife with an extremely flexible steel blade and no sharpened cutting edge. It is primarily used for mixing paint colors, paste, etc., or for Paper marbling, decorative endpapers, etc....
. Pigment is added by hand-painting, immersion or both. Where the paste mixture covers and permeates the cloth, dye applied later will not penetrate.

Katazome on thin fabrics shows a pattern through to the back; on thicker or more tightly woven fabrics, the reverse side is a solid color, usually indigo blue
Indigo dye

Indigo dye is dye with a distinctive blue color . The chemical compound that constitutes the indigo dye is called indican. The ancients extracted the natural dye from several species of plant as well as one of the two famous Hexaplex trunculus, but nearly all indigo produced today is Chemical synthesis....
 for cotton
Cotton

Cotton is a soft, staple fiber that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa....
 fabrics.






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Katazome is a Japanese
Japan

Japan is an island country in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, People's Republic of China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south....
 method of dyeing
Dyeing

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye....
 fabrics using a resist paste
Paste (rheology)

In physics, a paste is a substance that behaves as a solid until a sufficiently large load or stress is applied, at which point it flows like a fluid....
 applied through a stencil
Stencil

A stencil is a wikt:template used to drawing or painting identical Letter , symbols, shapes, or patterns every time it is used. Stencil technique in visual art is also referred to as pochoir....
. With this kind of resist dyeing, a rice
Rice

Rice is a staple food for a large part of the world's human population, especially in tropical Latin America, and East Asia, South Asia and Southeast Asia, making it the second-most consumed cereal grain, after maize....
 flour
Flour

Flour is a powder made of cereal grains. It is the main ingredient of bread, which is a staple food for many civilizations, making the availability of adequate supplies of flour a major economic and political issue at various times throughout history....
 mixture is applied using a brush or a tool such as a palette knife
Palette knife

A palette knife is a blunt knife with an extremely flexible steel blade and no sharpened cutting edge. It is primarily used for mixing paint colors, paste, etc., or for Paper marbling, decorative endpapers, etc....
. Pigment is added by hand-painting, immersion or both. Where the paste mixture covers and permeates the cloth, dye applied later will not penetrate.

Katazome on thin fabrics shows a pattern through to the back; on thicker or more tightly woven fabrics, the reverse side is a solid color, usually indigo blue
Indigo dye

Indigo dye is dye with a distinctive blue color . The chemical compound that constitutes the indigo dye is called indican. The ancients extracted the natural dye from several species of plant as well as one of the two famous Hexaplex trunculus, but nearly all indigo produced today is Chemical synthesis....
 for cotton
Cotton

Cotton is a soft, staple fiber that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa....
 fabrics. Futon
Futon

A is a flat, about thick mattress with a fabric exterior stuffed with cotton or synthetic batting that makes up a Japanese bed . They are sold in Japan at speciality stores called futon-ya as well as at department stores....
 covers made from multiple panels of fabric, if the stencils are properly placed and the panels joined carefully, exhibit a pleasing over-all pattern in addition to the elements cut into the stencil.

One attraction of katazome was that it provided an inexpensive way for over-all patterns similar to expensive woven brocades
Weaving

Weaving is the textile arts in which two distinct sets of yarn, called the Warp and the filling or weft , are interlaced with each other to form a textile....
 to be achieved on cotton. As with many everyday crafts of Japan it developed into a respected art form of its own.

Besides cotton, katazome has been used to decorate linen
Linen

Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather....
, silk
Silk

Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from Pupa#Cocoons made by the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity ....
 and fabrics that are all or partially synthetic
Synthetic fiber

Synthetic fibers are the result of extensive research by scientists to improve upon naturally occurring animal and plant. In general, synthetic fibers are created by forcing, usually through extrusion, fiber forming materials through holes into the air, forming a thread....
.

Katagami

Katagami or Ise-katagami is the Japanese art of making paper stencil
Stencil

A stencil is a wikt:template used to drawing or painting identical Letter , symbols, shapes, or patterns every time it is used. Stencil technique in visual art is also referred to as pochoir....
s for kimono
Kimono

The is the national costume of Japan. Originally the word "kimono" literally meant "thing to wear" but now has come to denote a particular type of traditional full-length Japanese garment....
 printing. The art is traditionally centred around the city of Ise
Ise, Mie

, formerly called Ujiyamada , is a cities of Japan located in eastern Mie Prefecture, on the island of Honshu, Japan.Ise is home to Ise Grand Shrine, the most sacred Shinto shrine in Japan, and is thus a very popular destination for tourists....
 in Mie Prefecture
Mie Prefecture

is a Prefectures of Japan of Japan which is part of the Kinki and Chubu regions on Honshu island. The capital is the city of Tsu, Mie....
. Multiple layers of thin washi
Washi

is a type of paper made in Japan. Washi is commonly made using fibers from the bark of the gampi tree, the mitsumata shrub , or the paper mulberry, but also can be made using bamboo, hemp, rice, and wheat....
 paper are bonded with a glue extracted from persimmon
Persimmon

A persimmon, known to the ancient Greeks as "the fruit of the gods" is the edible fruit of a number of species of trees of the genus Diospyros in the ebony wood family ....
, which makes a strong flexible brown coloured paper. The paper is cut with a combination of knives and punches. Four principal cutting techniques are used.
  1. Pulling the knife towards the artist, which results in long straight cuts.
  2. Carving patterns, which allows for figurative designs.
  3. Cutting circular holes, often in fan-like designs
  4. Using shaped punches.


The designs can be extremely intricate, and consequently fragile. Nowadays the stencils are sometimes sold as artworks, attached to hand fans, or used to decorate screens and doors in Japanese rooms. For kimono printing the stencils are stabilized by attaching them to a fine silk net. In past times, human hair was used instead of silk, but silk is less likely to warp and can be finer.

The printing is done with a resist dyeing
Resist dyeing

Resist dyeing is a term for a number of traditional methods of dyeing textiles with patterns. Methods are used to "resist" or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a pattern and ground....
 technique. Rice paste is passed through the stencil onto silk. When dyed, the colour does not adhere to the areas with rice paste. By multiple alignments of the stencil, large areas can be patterned. This technique was developed in France as Silk screen printing. The stencil is not generally used for more than one kimono, though multiple stencils can be cut at the same time.

See also

  • Shibori
    Shibori

    File:Sunlight filters through tied-and-indigo-dyed fabric.jpg is a Japanese language term for several methods of dyeing cloth with a pattern by binding, stitching, folding, twisting, or compressing it....
    , another Japanese method of resist dyeing.
  • Serizawa Keisuke
    Serizawa Keisuke

    was a Japanese textile designer. In 1956, he was designated as a Living National Treasure for his katazome stencil dyeing technique by the Japanese government....


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