Vestiarium Scoticum
Encyclopedia
The Vestiarium Scoticum was first published by William Tait of Edinburgh
in a limited edition in 1842. John Telfer Dunbar, in his seminal work History of Highland Dress referred to it as "probably the most controversial costume book ever written."
The book itself purported to be a reproduction, with colour illustrations, of an ancient manuscript on the clan tartans of Scottish families. Shortly after its publication, it was denounced as a forgery and the "Stuart" brothers who brought it forth, and who claimed to be the grandsons of Bonnie Prince Charlie himself, were likewise denounced as imposters. It is indeed generally accepted today that neither the brothers themselves nor the Vestiarium are what they were purported to be.
Nevertheless, the role of the book in the history of Scottish tartan
s is immense, with many of the designs and patterns contained therein passing into the realm of "official" clan
tartans.
, produced a copy of a document containing tartan patterns and showed it to their host, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder
, Bt. This manuscript, however, was not the one which the brothers claimed to be the basis for the later publication of the Vestiarium.
As explained in the Preface to the 1842 edition (which is extensively excerpted in Dunbar's History of Highland Dress) the copy which Sir Thomas saw (now known as the Cromarty MS), which bore the date 1721 on the first page and with the title Liber Vestiarium Scotia, was said by its possessors to have been obtained from a certain John Ross of Cromarty, and was said also by them to be an inferior copy of an earlier manuscript.
In this same Preface, it is claimed that the 1842 edition is based on an original manuscript (now known as the Douay MS) whose date was claimed to be 1571 (or earlier) which was at that time in the possession of John Lesley
, Bishop of Ross
. This Douay MS is said by the author of the Preface to be the "oldest and most perfect" copy of the Vestiarium. Having once been in the possession of Bishop Ross, subsequently it had found its way into the library of the Scots College at Douay. From there, it was supposed to have come into the possession of Bonnie Prince Charlie himself who took over the MS when on a visit to the Scots College in the early 1750s.
In his reply of June 5, 1829, Scott expressed skepticism over the claims of both the brothers Sobieski and the manuscript itself, at the same time requesting that a copy of the MS be sent for investigation by competent authorities in antiquities. Among other things, he disputed the assertion that Lowlanders had ever worn tartans or plaids; questioned the lack of any corroborating evidence, including any in Bishop Lesley's writings even though Lesley was said to have been in possession at one time of the original upon which the present MS was based; and called into question the authenticity of the brothers. He also noted that the title - Vestiarium Scotia - was, in his words, "false Latin".
On July 20, 1829, Sir Thomas replied to Sir Walter. In this letter, he describes the (alleged) 1571 original from which the 1721 copy which he saw is said to be derived and which was in the possession of the brothers' father in London. Sir Thomas then goes on to discuss the brothers' character, credibility, and society's opinion of them, admitting that the "Quixotism
of the two brothers must render these very unfortunate individuals for the introduction of a piece of antiquarian matter to the world. . .". He nevertheless reasserts his belief in the authenticity of the MS and goes on to discuss the "false Latin" and the presumed use of tartans in the Lowlands.
In a final letter in this exchange from Scott to Lauder, dated 19 November 1829, Scott rejected again the authenticity of the Vestiarium and further rejected the notion that Lowlanders ever wore clan tartans. He went further and rejected the entire notion of clan tartans altogether, stating that the "idea of distinguishing the clans by their tartans is but a fashion of modern date . . .".
number (TS#) and the (modern) thread count. Please note that these may not be the official clan tartans. For example, the tartan shown for Clan Campbell
, known as "Campbell of Argyll", was only worn by the Sixth Duke of Argyll. The standard Campbell tartan is the Black Watch
tartan.
The Quarterly Review article was occasioned by the appearance of a book by John Sobieski and Charles Edward Stuart entitled The Tales of the Century. These stories, although presented in fictional terms, lay out the authors' claims to be direct descendants of Prince Charles Edward, the Young Pretender. The Quarterly Review article, while nominally a response to these claims, in fact mainly consisted of an examination of the authenticity of the Vestiarium Scoticum.
In 1848, John Sobieski Stuart replied to the Quarterly Review article with a treatise of his own entitled The Genuineness of the Vestiarium Scoticum. In this reply, Stuart offered the 1721 edition for inspection. For his part, Skene expressed a desire that the original manuscript, that said to have once belonged to Bishop Ross, be exhibited. In the end, no record of anyone examining the 1721 copy at that time exists and no one other than the Sobieski Stuart brothers ever saw the Ross copy.
In 1895, the Glasow Herald published a series of articles entitled "The Vestiarium Scoticum, is it a forgery?" authored by Andrew Ross. Ross was able to locate the 1721 copy, but not any earlier manuscripts. He gave a detailed description of the 1721 copy, and had it subjected to chemical testing by Stevenson Macadam, a chemist. Macadam reported that the "document [bore] evidence of having been treated with chemical agents in order to give the writing a more aged appearance than it is entitled to". He concluded that "the manuscript cannot be depended upon as an ancient document".
This 1721 copy was also presented for examination to a Mr. Robert Irvine, the director of a chemical firm who reported that it was "impossible to arrive at any accurate conclusion pointing to the age of the writing".
In earlier years, there was some discussion of publishing a second edition of the Vestiarium Scoticum (the first edition had a press run of only several dozen copies), but nothing came of these discussions.
Edinburgh
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland, the second largest city in Scotland, and the eighth most populous in the United Kingdom. The City of Edinburgh Council governs one of Scotland's 32 local government council areas. The council area includes urban Edinburgh and a rural area...
in a limited edition in 1842. John Telfer Dunbar, in his seminal work History of Highland Dress referred to it as "probably the most controversial costume book ever written."
The book itself purported to be a reproduction, with colour illustrations, of an ancient manuscript on the clan tartans of Scottish families. Shortly after its publication, it was denounced as a forgery and the "Stuart" brothers who brought it forth, and who claimed to be the grandsons of Bonnie Prince Charlie himself, were likewise denounced as imposters. It is indeed generally accepted today that neither the brothers themselves nor the Vestiarium are what they were purported to be.
Nevertheless, the role of the book in the history of Scottish tartan
Tartan
Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in many other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland. Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns...
s is immense, with many of the designs and patterns contained therein passing into the realm of "official" clan
Clan
A clan is a group of people united by actual or perceived kinship and descent. Even if lineage details are unknown, clan members may be organized around a founding member or apical ancestor. The kinship-based bonds may be symbolical, whereby the clan shares a "stipulated" common ancestor that is a...
tartans.
Background
The 1842 edition of the Vestiarium had its beginnings in the late 1820s when the Sobieski Stuart brothers, then resident in Moray, ScotlandScotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
, produced a copy of a document containing tartan patterns and showed it to their host, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder
Thomas Dick Lauder
Sir Thomas Dick Lauder of Fountainhall, 7th Baronet, FRSE FSA was a Scottish author. He served as Secretary to the Board of Manufactures , on the Herring Fisheries Board, at the Royal Institution for the Encouragement of the Fine Arts, and as Deputy Lieutenant of both counties of Moray and...
, Bt. This manuscript, however, was not the one which the brothers claimed to be the basis for the later publication of the Vestiarium.
As explained in the Preface to the 1842 edition (which is extensively excerpted in Dunbar's History of Highland Dress) the copy which Sir Thomas saw (now known as the Cromarty MS), which bore the date 1721 on the first page and with the title Liber Vestiarium Scotia, was said by its possessors to have been obtained from a certain John Ross of Cromarty, and was said also by them to be an inferior copy of an earlier manuscript.
In this same Preface, it is claimed that the 1842 edition is based on an original manuscript (now known as the Douay MS) whose date was claimed to be 1571 (or earlier) which was at that time in the possession of John Lesley
John Lesley
John Lesley was a Scottish Roman Catholic bishop and historian. His father was Gavin Lesley, rector of Kingussie, Badenoch.-Early career:...
, Bishop of Ross
Bishop of Ross
The Bishop of Ross was the ecclesiastical head of the Diocese of Ross, one of Scotland's 13 medieval bishoprics. The first recorded bishop appears in the late 7th century as a witness to Adomnán of Iona's Cáin Adomnáin. The bishopric was based at the settlement of Rosemarkie until the mid-13th...
. This Douay MS is said by the author of the Preface to be the "oldest and most perfect" copy of the Vestiarium. Having once been in the possession of Bishop Ross, subsequently it had found its way into the library of the Scots College at Douay. From there, it was supposed to have come into the possession of Bonnie Prince Charlie himself who took over the MS when on a visit to the Scots College in the early 1750s.
The Lauder - Scott Correspondence
Soon after Sir Thomas saw the book, he wrote of it to Sir Walter Scott (in a letter dated June 1, 1829). In this letter, Lauder highly commended the book, stating that several clan chiefs, such as Cluny MacPherson and McLeod, had derived their "true and authentic" tartans therefrom. Lauder described the manuscript in detail, stating that he had obtained drawings, in colour, of all the tartans contained therein (about 66 in number) and sent some of these to Sir Walter Scott himself. In addition to material on tartans, the book also contained Appendices on women's plaids (arisaids) and on hose and trews. In the end, Lauder urged the brothers to have the book published and made inquiries concerning costs and procedures to that end. A plan was adopted to publish it, illustrated by swatches of silk in the tartan colours and patterns.In his reply of June 5, 1829, Scott expressed skepticism over the claims of both the brothers Sobieski and the manuscript itself, at the same time requesting that a copy of the MS be sent for investigation by competent authorities in antiquities. Among other things, he disputed the assertion that Lowlanders had ever worn tartans or plaids; questioned the lack of any corroborating evidence, including any in Bishop Lesley's writings even though Lesley was said to have been in possession at one time of the original upon which the present MS was based; and called into question the authenticity of the brothers. He also noted that the title - Vestiarium Scotia - was, in his words, "false Latin".
On July 20, 1829, Sir Thomas replied to Sir Walter. In this letter, he describes the (alleged) 1571 original from which the 1721 copy which he saw is said to be derived and which was in the possession of the brothers' father in London. Sir Thomas then goes on to discuss the brothers' character, credibility, and society's opinion of them, admitting that the "Quixotism
Quixotism
Quixotism is impracticality in pursuit of ideals, especially those ideals manifested by rash, lofty and romantic ideas or extravagantly chivalrous action. It also serves to describe an idealism without regard to practicality...
of the two brothers must render these very unfortunate individuals for the introduction of a piece of antiquarian matter to the world. . .". He nevertheless reasserts his belief in the authenticity of the MS and goes on to discuss the "false Latin" and the presumed use of tartans in the Lowlands.
In a final letter in this exchange from Scott to Lauder, dated 19 November 1829, Scott rejected again the authenticity of the Vestiarium and further rejected the notion that Lowlanders ever wore clan tartans. He went further and rejected the entire notion of clan tartans altogether, stating that the "idea of distinguishing the clans by their tartans is but a fashion of modern date . . .".
Publication of the Vestiarium Scoticum
The Vestiarium was finally published in 1842. A summary of its contents follows.- Preface, in which is described the origin of the manuscripts, together with observations on the supposed author and date
- Rolls of the Clans
- Introduction
- Text of the Vestiarium
- The setts, stripes, and colours of the tartans, together with a listing of clans and families whose tartans are described
- Colour plates - seventy five plates (in colour) illustrating the tartans of the clans and families mentioned in the previous section
The Tartans
The tartans presented in the Vestiarium were divided into two sections. First came the "Highland clans" and this was followed by "Lowland Houses and Border Clans". In the listing below, the clan name (with original spelling as it appeared in the VS, is followed by the Scottish Tartans SocietyScottish Tartans Society
The Scottish Tartans Society , now defunct, was a society committed to the recording and preservation of woven tartan designs from around the world; it maintained the Register of All Publicly Known Tartans. The society was first formed in 1963 and existed for about 40 years...
number (TS#) and the (modern) thread count. Please note that these may not be the official clan tartans. For example, the tartan shown for Clan Campbell
Clan Campbell
Clan Campbell is a Highland Scottish clan. Historically one of the largest, most powerful and most successful of the Highland clans, their lands were in Argyll and the chief of the clan became the Earl and later Duke of Argyll.-Origins:...
, known as "Campbell of Argyll", was only worn by the Sixth Duke of Argyll. The standard Campbell tartan is the Black Watch
Black Watch
The Black Watch, 3rd Battalion, Royal Regiment of Scotland is an infantry battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland. The unit's traditional colours were retired in 2011 in a ceremony led by Queen Elizabeth II....
tartan.
Hieland clannes (Highland Clans)
| Plate # | Clan/Tartan Name | Plate | Modern thread count derived from plate | Tartan derived from text | Modern thread count derived from text | Scottish Tartans Society Scottish Tartans Society The Scottish Tartans Society , now defunct, was a society committed to the recording and preservation of woven tartan designs from around the world; it maintained the Register of All Publicly Known Tartans. The society was first formed in 1963 and existed for about 40 years... # |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Clan Stewart Clan Stuart Clan Stewart is a Highland Scottish clan. The clan is recognised by Court of the Lord Lyon, however it does not have a clan chief recognised by the Lord Lyon King of Arms... |
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G4 R60 B8 R8 Bk12 Y2 Bk2 W2 Bk2 G20 R8 Bk2 R2 W2 | same as plate | ||
| 2 | Prince of Rothsay Duke of Rothesay Duke of Rothesay was a title of the heir apparent to the throne of the Kingdom of Scotland before 1707, of the Kingdom of Great Britain from 1707 to 1801, and now of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland.... |
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W4 R64 G4 R6 G4 R8 G32 R8 G32 R8 G4 R6 G4 R64 W2 R2 W4 | N/A | N/A (impossible to accurately derive thread count from text) | TS1533 |
| 3 | ye principal clovris of ye clanne Stewart Clan Stuart Clan Stewart is a Highland Scottish clan. The clan is recognised by Court of the Lord Lyon, however it does not have a clan chief recognised by the Lord Lyon King of Arms... |
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R6 W56 Bk6 W6 Bk6 W6 g26 R16 Bk2 R2 W2 | same as plate | ||
| 4 | MakDonnald of ye Ylis Clan Donald Clan Donald is one of the largest Scottish clans. There are numerous branches to the clan. Several of these have chiefs recognised by the Lord Lyon King of Arms; these are: Clan Macdonald of Sleat, Clan Macdonald of Clanranald, Clan MacDonell of Glengarry, Clan MacDonald of Keppoch, and Clan... |
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R6 B20 Bk24 G6 Bk2 G2 Bk2 G60 W8 | N/A | N/A (fine black lines could be in the blue portion, they are in the green portion in the text) | TS1366 |
| 5 | clan Raynald Clan MacDonald of Clan Ranald Clan Macdonald of Clanranald is a Scottish clan and a branch of Clan Donald one of the largest Scottish clans. The founder of the Macdonalds of Clanranald is Reginald, 4th great-grandson of Somerled. The Macdonalds of Clanranald descend from Reginald's elder son Allan and the MacDonells of... |
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B10 R4 B30 R4 Bk16 G52 R6 G2 R4 G6 W6 | same as plate | ||
| 6 | Clann Gregour Clan MacGregor Clan Gregor, Clan McGregor, Clan MacGregor or Clan M'Gregor is a Highland Scottish clan. It is the most senior clan of Siol Alpin, translated as referring to King Kenneth I, descending from the ancient Kings of the Picts and Dál Riata... |
R128 G36 R10 G16 W4 | same as plate | TS866 | ||
| 8 | Clan Makduffe Clan MacDuff Clan MacDuff is a Scottish armigerous clan, which is registered with Lyon Court, though currently without a chief. Moncreiffe wrote that the Clan MacDuff was the premier clan among the Scottish Gaels. The early chiefs of Clan MacDuff were the Earls of Fife... |
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R6 G32 B12 Bk12 R48 Bk4 R8 | same as plate | TS1453 | |
| 9 | Makanphersonis Clan Macpherson Clan Macpherson is a Highland Scottish clan from Badenoch, on the River Spey. It is a leading member of the Chattan Confederation.-Origins:... |
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W6 R2 W60 Bk30 W6 Bk18 Y2 | same as plate | ||
| 10 | Clann Grant, or clann Grauntacke Clan Grant -Origins:The Grants are one of the clans of Siol Alpin, and descend from the 9th century Kenneth MacAlpin, King of Scots; and also of Norse origin, from settlers who are the descents of Haakon inn Riki Sigurdarsson , Jarl of Hladr, Protector of Norway ,-Origins:The Grants are one of the clans of... |
R8 B4 R4 b4 R112 B32 R8 G2 R8 G72 R6 G2 R8 | same as plate | |||
| 11 | Monrois Clan Munro -Origins:The main traditional origin of the clan is that the Munros came from Ireland and settled in Scotland in the 11th century and that they fought as mercenary soldiers under the Earl of Ross who defeated Viking invaders in Rosshire... |
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Bk36 R8 Bk36 R64 W6 | same as plate | ||
| 12 | Clann-Lewid Clan MacLeod Clan MacLeod is a Highland Scottish clan associated with the Isle of Skye. There are two main branches of the clan: the Macleods of Harris and Dunvegan, whose chief is Macleod of Macleod, are known in Gaelic as Sìol Tormoid ; the Macleods of Lewis, whose chief is Macleod of The Lewes, are known in... |
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Bk16 Y2 Bk16 Y24 R2 | same as plate | TS1272 | |
| 13 | Clan Campbell Clan Campbell Clan Campbell is a Highland Scottish clan. Historically one of the largest, most powerful and most successful of the Highland clans, their lands were in Argyll and the chief of the clan became the Earl and later Duke of Argyll.-Origins:... |
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B132 Bk2 B2 Bk2 B6 Bk24 G52 W/Y6 G52 Bk24 B42 Bk2 B8 | same as plate | ||
| 14 | Svtherlande Clan Sutherland Clan Sutherland is a Highland Scottish clan whose traditional territory is located in the region of Sutherland in northern highlands of Scotland and was one of the most powerful Scottish clans. The clan seat is at Dunrobin Castle, Sutherland... |
G12 W4 G48 Bk24 B6 Bk4 B4 Bk4 B24 R2 B2R6 | same as plate | |||
| 15 | Clanchamron Clan Cameron Clan Cameron is a West Highland Scottish clan, with one main branch Lochiel, and numerous cadet branches. The Clan Cameron lands are in Lochaber and within their lands is the mountain Ben Nevis which is the highest mountain in the British Isles. The chief of the clan is customarily referred to as... |
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R8 G24 R8 G24 R64 Y4 | same as plate | ||
| 16 | Clanneil Clan MacNeil Clan MacNeil, also known in Scotland as Clan Niall, is a highland Scottish clan, particularly associated with the Outer Hebridean island of Barra. The early history of Clan MacNeil is obscure, however despite this the clan claims to descend from the legendary Niall of the nine hostages... |
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B12 R2 B40 G12 B12 G48 Bk2 G4 W8 | same as plate | ||
| 17 | Mackfarlan Clan MacFarlane Clan MacFarlane is a Highland Scottish clan. The clan claims a descent from the old line of the Earls of Lennox. For some time there had been some controversy as to the descent of these earls, with both Gaelic and Anglo-Saxon origins given. Though today it is accepted that Clan MacFarlane is of... |
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Bk54 W48 Bk8W48 | same as plate | ||
| 18 | Clanlavchlan Clan MacLachlan Clan Maclachlan, also known as Clan Lachlan, is a Highland Scottish clan that historically centred on the lands of Strathlachlan on Loch Fyne, Argyll on the west coast of Scotland... |
Bk12 Y4 Bk42 Y4 Bk12 Y48 Bk4 Y12 | same as plate | |||
| 19 | Clan-gillean Clan MacLean Clan Maclean is a Highland Scottish clan. They are one of the oldest clans in the Highlands and owned large tracts of land in Argyll as well as the Inner Hebrides. Many early MacLeans became famous for their honour, strength and courage in battle. They were involved in many clan skirmishes with... |
G12 Bk20 W4 Bk20 G6 Bk8 G60 Bk4 | same as plate | |||
| 20 | Clankenjie Clan MacKenzie Clan Mackenzie is a Highland Scottish clan, traditionally associated with Kintail and lands in Ross-shire.-Origins:The Mackenzies, a powerful clan of Celtic stock, were not among the clans that originated from Norman ancestry. Descendants of the long defunct royal Cenél Loairn of Dál Riata, they... |
B56 Bk6 B6 Bk6 B6 Bk20 G54 W/R6 G54 Bk20 B56 Bk2 B12 | same as plate | |||
| 21 | Fryjjelis in ye Ayrd Clan Fraser Clan Fraser is a Scottish clan of French origin. The Clan has been strongly associated with Inverness and the surrounding area since the Clan's founder gained lands there in the 13th century. Since its founding, the Clan has dominated local politics and been active in every major military conflict... |
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R4 B12 R4 G12 R24 W4 | same as plate | ||
| 22 | Menghes Clan Menzies For Menzies as a personal name, including its pronunciation and a list of famous people of that name, see Menzies.Clan Menzies ; , a member is a Mèinnearach) is a Highland Scottish clan.-Origins of the Clan:... |
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W4 R40 Cr2 R2 Cr2 R6 Cr10 W48 R6 W4 R2 W8 | same as plate | ||
| 23 | Chyssal Clan Chisholm Clan Chisholm is a Scottish clan. The clan had its origin outside Scotland. The first Chisholm to appear in the records of Scotland was Alexander de Chesholme, who witnessed a charter in 1248/49.-Origins of the Clan:... |
R2 G28 Bk2 G4 Bk2 G4 B14 R56 W2 R12 | same as plate | |||
| 24 | Buchananis Clan Buchanan Clan Buchanan is an Armigerous Scottish clan whose origins are said to lie in the 1225 grant of lands on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond to clergyman Sir Absalon of Buchanan by the Earl of Lennox.-Origins:... |
Bk2 W18 Cr8 W4 Cr8 W4 | same as plate | |||
| 25 | Clan Lawmond Clan Lamont Clan Lamont is a Highland Scottish clan. Clan Lamont claim descent from Lauman who lived in Cowal in 1238. Tradition gives this Lauman a descent from an Irish prince of the O'Neill dynasty, Ánrothán Ua Néill, son of Áed, son of Flaithbertach Ua Néill, King of Ailech and Cenél nEógain, died 1036... |
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B50 Bk2 B2 Bk2 B4 Bk28 G60 W8 G60 Bk28 B32 Bk2 B6 | same as plate | ||
| 26 | Clann Dowgall of Lorne Clan MacDougall Clan MacDougall is a Highland Scottish clan consisting of the descendants of Dubgall mac Somairle, son of Somerled, who ruled Lorne and the Isle of Mull in Argyll in the 13th century... |
R8 G18 Bk12 Cr16 R10 G4 R4 G4 R52 G2 R6 | .png) |
P8 G16 B12 P16 R12 G4 R4 G4 R48 G2 R6 (plate colour differs from that listed in text) | ||
| 27 | Makyntryris Clan Macintyre Clan MacIntyre is a Scottish clan. The name MacIntyre , means "son of the carpenter." Although no documented history of the clan exists, it is most commonly said to descend from Maurice Mac Neil a nephew of Somerled, the great 12th century leader of the Scottish Gaels... |
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G10 B26 R6 B26 G64 W10 | same as plate | ||
| 28 | Clandonoquhay Clan Robertson Clan Donnachaidh , also known as Clan Robertson, is one of the oldest of all Scottish clans.-Origins:There are two main theories as to the origins of the Clan Donnachaidh:... |
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G2 R68 B16 R4 G40 R4 | same as plate | TS889 | |
| 29 | Maknabbis Clan MacNab Clan Macnab is a Highland Scottish clan.-History:Clan Macnab is often said to have been a branch of the Clan Macdonald. However a bond of manrent exists to say that the Clan Macnab was an ally of the Clan Mackinnon and the Clan Gregor... |
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G14 R4 Cr4 G8 Cr4 R24 Bk2 | same as plate | ||
| 30 | Clannkynnon Clan MacKinnon Clan Mackinnon or Clan Fingon is a Highland Scottish clan associated with the islands of Mull and Skye, in the Inner Hebrides.Popular tradition gives the clan a Dalriadic Gaelic origin. The 19th century historian W. F. Skene named the clan as one of the seven clans of Siol Alpin - who according to... |
Bk2 R36 G24 R4 G24 R36 W2 | same as plate | |||
| 31 | Makyntosche Clan MacKintosh Clan Mackintosh is a Scottish clan from Inverness with strong Jacobite ties. The Mackintoshes were also chiefs of the Chattan Confederation.-Origins:... |
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R6 G32 Bk24 R56 W4 R10 | same as plate | ||
| 32 | Clanhiunla, or Farquharsonnes Clan Farquharson Clan Farquharson of Invercauld is a Highland Scottish clan. The clan hails from Aberdeenshire and is a member of the Chattan Confederation.-Origins:Farquhar - from the Gaelic 'fear' and 'char' meaning 'dear one'... |
_(stewart_-_the_setts).png) |
B56 Bk6 b6 Bk6 B6 G54 R/Y6 G54 Bk20 B56 Bk2 B12 | same as plate | ||
| 33 | Clanngvn Clan Gunn Clan Gunn is a Scottish clan associated with northeastern Scotland, including Caithness and Sutherland as well as the Orkney Islands.The clan's origins stretch over the sea to Norway, and the Clan Gunn themselves claim descent from the legendary viking Sweyn Asleifsson, the progenitor of the clan,... |
G4 Bk32 G4 Bk32 G60 R4 | same as plate | |||
| 34 | Clan-mak-Arthovr Clan MacArthur Clan Arthur, , or MacArthur is a highland Scottish clan that once held lands on the shores of Loch Awe opposite Inishail. The clan has been described as one of the oldest clans in Argyll. Clan Arthur and Clan Campbell share a common origin, and at one point the MacArthurs challenged the seniority... |
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Bk64 G12 Bk24 G60 Y6 | same as plate | ||
| 35 | Clanmorgan Clan MacKay Clan Mackay is an ancient and once powerful Scottish clan from the far north of the Scottish Highlands, but with roots in the old kingdom of Moray. They were a powerful force in politics beginning in the 14th century, supporting Robert the Bruce. In the centuries that followed they were... |
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B8 Bk24 B8 Bk24 B64 R4 | same as plate | ||
| 36 | Makqwhenis Clan MacQueen Clan Macqueen is a Scottish clan, formally known as MacSween, one of the ancient West Highland and Hebridean Warrior Kindreds. The clan does not have a chief recognised by the Lord Lyon King of Arms. Because of this, the clan is considered an armigerous clan, and as such Clan Macqueen has no... |
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Bk4 R14 Bk4 R14 Bk28 Y2 | same as plate | TS1209 |
Low country pairtes (Lowland Clans)
| Plate # | Clan/Tartan Name | Plate | Modern thread count derived from plate | Tartan derived from text | Modern thread count derived from text | Scottish Tartans Society # |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 37 | Bruiss Clan Bruce Clan Bruce is a Scottish clan from Kincardine in Scotland. It was a Royal House in the 14th century, producing two kings of Scotland.-Origins of the Clan:... |
W8 R56 G14 R12 G38 R10 G38 R12 G14 R56 Y8 | same as plate | TS1848 | ||
| 38 | Dowglass Clan Douglas Clan Douglas is an ancient Scottish kindred from the Scottish Lowlands taking its name from Douglas, South Lanarkshire, and thence spreading through the Scottish Borderland, Angus, Lothian and beyond. The clan does not currently have a chief, therefore it is considered an armigerous clan.The... |
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Bk30 Gy2 Bk2 Gy2 Bk14 Gy28 Bk2 Gy4 | same as plate | TS1127 | |
| 39 | Crawfovrd Clan Crawford Clan Crawford is a Scottish clan recognised by the Court of the Lord Lyon, which is the heraldic authority of Scotland. The clan does not a have a chief recognised by the Lord Lyon King of Arms, is considered an armigerous clan. Clan Crawford is considered armigerous because Crawfords are... |
R6 g24 R6 G24 R60 W4 | .png) |
Cr12 W4 Cr60 G24 Cr6 G24 Cr6 (plate shows scarlet, where text shows crimson) | TS1515 | |
| 40 | Ruthwen | R4 G2 R58 B36 G30 W6 | N/A | N/A (missing a white line noted in the plate) | TS705 | |
| 41 | Montegomerye Clan Montgomery -Origins of the Clan:Clan Montgomery originated in Wales, and emigrated to Scotland in the 12th century as vassals of the FitzAlans. The family derives its surname from lands in Wales, likely from the Honour of Montgomery which was located near the Shropshire lands of the FitzAlans... |
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B18 G6 B18 G68 | same as plate | ||
| 42 | Hamyltowne Clan Hamilton The House of Hamilton, occasionally and erroneously referred to as Clan Hamilton, is a Scottish family who historically held broad territories throughout central and southern Scotland, particularly Ayrshire, Lanarkshire and the Lothians... |
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B10 R2 B10 R16 W2 | N/A | N/A (text calls for more than one white line) | TS270 |
| 43 | Wymmis Clan Wemyss Clan Wemyss is a Lowland Scottish clan.-Origins of the Clan:The name "Wemyss" is derived from the Gaelic word ‘uaimh’, meaning ‘cave’, and is believed to be taken from the caves and cliffs of the Firth of Forth in that part of Fife where the family of Wemyss made its home. Wemyss in Fife has been... |
R8 Bk24 W2 Bk24 R8 Bk8 R52 G2 R10 | same as plate | TS1512 | ||
| 44 | Cymyne | .png) |
Bk4 R54 G8 R4 G8 R8 G18 W2 G18 R8 | same as plate | TS1158 | |
| 45 | Seyntcler Clan Sinclair Clan Sinclair is a Highland Scottish clan of Norman origin who held lands in the north of Scotland, the Orkney Islands, and the Lothians which they received from the Kings of Scots... |
G4 R2 G60 Bk32 W2 B32 R4 | same as plate | |||
| 46 | Dvnbarr Clan Dunbar -Origins of the Clan:The Clan Dunbar descends from Gospatric, Earl of Northumbria, grandson of Crínán of Dunkeld and Seneschal of the Isles and nephew to King Duncan I of Scotland, who became Earl of Northumberland after his father’s death. William the Conqueror deprived Gospatric of the title in... |
R8 Bk2 R56 Bk16 G44 R12 | same as plate | |||
| 47 | Leslye Clan Leslie Clan Leslie is a Lowland Scottish clan.-Origins:The family name comes from the Leslie lands of Aberdeenshire and was to become famous in Germany, Poland, France and Russia... |
Bk2 R64 B32 R8 Bk12 Y2 Bk12 R8 | same as plate | |||
| 48 | Lavdere | G6 B16 G6 Bk8 G30 R4 | same as plate | |||
| 49 | Connyngham Clan Cunningham Clan Cunningham is a Scottish clan. The clan does not currently have a chief, therefore it is considered an Armigerous clan by the Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs, though recently two contenders for the chiefship have emerged... |
Bk8 R2 Bk60 R56 B2 R2 W8 | same as plate | |||
| 50 | Lyndeseye Clan Lindsay -Origins of the Clan:There is currently no known proven path pertaining to the origin of the Clan Lindsay. However, several possible theories have been advanced over the years. First is the theory proposed in 1769 by biographer/historian, Richard Rolt, in which he claimed that the Lindsays were... |
G50 B4 G4 B4 G4 b20 R60 B4 R6 | Cr6 B4 Cr48 B16 G4 B4 G4 B4 G40 (text calls for crimson, as to scarlet in plate) | |||
| 51 | Haye Clan Hay Clan Hay is a Scottish clan that has played an important part in the history and politics of Scotland. Members of the clan are to be found in most parts of Scotland and in many other parts of the world. However, the North East of Scotland, i.e... |
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R12 G8 Y4 G72 R4 G4 R4 G24 R96 G8 R4 G2 R4 W2 | same as plate | ||
| 52 | Dundass Clan Dundas Clan Dundas is the name given to one of Scotland's most historically important families. Once widely regarded as one of the most noble in the British Empire... |
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Bk4 G4 R2 G48 Bk24 B32 Bk8 | same as plate | ||
| 53 | Ogyluye Clan Ogilvy -Origins of the clan:The Ogilvys are one of the most distinguished families in Scotland and take their name from Gillebride the second son of Gille Chriosd, Celtic Earl of Angus... |
B58 Y2 B4 Bk32 G52 Bk2 G4 R6 | N/A | N/A (yellow stripe would be attached to black) | ||
| 54 | Olyfavnt Clan Oliphant -Origins of the clan:The earliest record of the name was Osbernus Olifardus circa 1046 in Normandy.The first known Oliphant landholding was in England at Lilleford in Northampton by the family of David Olifard, who is commonly held to be the progenitor of the clan... |
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B8 Bk8 B48 G64 W2 G4 | same as plate | ||
| 55 | Setown Clan Seton Clan Seton is a Scottish clan which does not currently have a chief, therefore it is considered an Armigerous clan.-Origins of the Clan:The name Seton is believed to be derived from the village of Sai in Normandy although other explanations have been suggested, such as from Tranent meaning "a sea... |
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G10 W2 G24 R10 B8 R4 Bk8 R64 G2 R4 | same as plate | ||
| 56 | Ramsey Clan Ramsay Clan Ramsay is a Lowland Scottish clan of Anglo-Norman origin. The clan can be traced to the 12th century in Scotland.-Origins:A ram in the sea is said to have been an emblem on the seal of Ramsay Abbey in Huntingdon in the 11th century... |
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Bk8 W4 Bk56 R60 Bk2 R6 | R6 Cr2 R60 Bk56 W4 Bk8 (the two crimson lines in text are rendered black in the plate) | ||
| 57 | Areskyn Clan Erskine -Origins of the Name:The surname Erskine is derived from the name of Erskine, an area to the south of the River Clyde and ten miles to the west of Glasgow... |
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G14 R2 G52 R60 G2 R10 | same as plate | ||
| 58 | Wallas Clan Wallace -Origins of the clan:The Wallace family first came to Scotland with a Norman family in the 11th century. King David was eager to extend the benefits of Norman influence and gave grants to the nobles of the south. Among them was Walter Fitzallan, who the Scottish king appointed his Steward in 1136... |
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Bk4 R64 Bk60 Y8 | same as plate | ||
| 59 | Brodye Clan Brodie Clan Brodie is a Scottish clan whose origins are uncertain. The first known Brodie chiefs were the Thanes of Brodie and Dyke in Morayshire. The Brodies were present in several clan conflicts, and during the civil war were ardent covenanters... |
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Bk10 R60 Bk28 Y2 Bk28 R10 | same as plate | ||
| 60 | Barclay Clan Barclay -Origins of the clan:Since the eighteenth century, Barclay historians, noted for their low level in medieval scholarship, have assumed the Scottish family Barclay is a branch of one of the Anglo-Norman Berkeley family of Berkeley in Gloucestershire... |
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G4 B64 G64 R4 | same as plate | ||
| 61 | Murrawe Clan Murray Clan Murray is a Highland Scottish clan. The Murrays were a great and powerful clan whose lands and cadet houses were scattered throughout Scotland.- Origins of the Clan :... |
B56 Bk6 B6 Bk6 B6 Bk20 G54 R6 g54 Bk20 B56 Bk2 B12 | same as plate | |||
| 62 | Urqwhart Clan Urquhart Urquhart is a Highland Scottish clan. They traditionally occupied the lands in the district and town of Cromarty, a former Royal Burgh with an excellent natural harbour on the tip of The Black Isle. Chiefs of the Clan were Barons and hereditary Sheriffs of the county for hundreds of years... |
B4 W2 B24 Bk4 B4 Bk4 B8 Bk24 G52 Bk4 G4 R2 | same as plate | |||
| 63 | Rose Clan Rose Clan Rose is a Highland Scottish clan. Their chief's motto is "Constant and True" and their chief'sfamily castle is Kilravock Castle, built in 1460... |
G4 R48 B10 R8 B2 R4 B2 R24 W4 | G8 R64 P18 Cr12 P4 Cr6 P4 Cr24 W6 (the plate gives a poor representation of the reds & purple) | |||
| 64 | Colqwohovne Clan Colquhoun Clan Colquhoun is a Highland Scottish clan.The clan motto shown above in the crest best translates to "if I can."-Origins of the clan:In the 13th century Maol Domhnaich, Earl of Lennox granted the lands of Colquhoun, located in Dunbartonshire, to Humphry de Kilpatrick... |
B8 Bk4 B40 W2 Bk18 G58 R8 | same as plate | |||
| 65 | Drymmond Clan Drummond Clan Drummond is a Scottish clan deriving its name from the parish of Drymen, in what was western Stirlingshire. Legend gives Maurice of Hungary as founder of the clan... |
G4 R2 g2 R56 G16 Bk2 G2 Bk2 G36 R2 G2 R8 | same as plate | |||
| 66 | Forbas Clan Forbes Clan Forbes is a Lowland Scottish clan from Aberdeenshire, Scotland.-Origins:Concerning the origin of this Scottish clan, John of Forbes, the first upon record, seems to have been a man of importance in the time of William the Lion, and was the father of Fergus, from whom the clan are descended.... |
R4 G64 Bk36 G10 Bk16 Y4 | same as plate |
Bordovr clannes (Border Clans)
| Plate # | Clan/Tartan Name | Plate | Modern thread count derived from plate | Tartan derived from text | Modern thread count derived from text | Scottish Tartans Society # |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 67 | Scott Clan Scott Clan Scott is a Scottish clan. Clan Scott is not a Highland clan but Lowland, from the Borders region of Scotland. Families and clans from this area prefer to be known as Borderers instead of Lowlanders.-Origins:... |
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G8 R6 Bk2 R56 G28 R8 G8 W6 G8 R8 | same as plate | TS793 | |
| 68 | Armstrang Clan Armstrong Clan Armstrong is an armigerous clan whose origins lie in Cumberland, south of the frontier between Scotland and England which was officially established in 1237.... |
G4 Bk2 G58 Bk24 B4 Bk2 B2 Bk2 B26 R6 | same as plate | TS793 | ||
| 69 | Gordovn Clan Gordon Clan Gordon, also known as the House of Gordon, is a Scottish clan. The chief of the clan was the powerful Earl of Huntly, now also Marquess of Huntly.-Origins:... |
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B60 Bk2 B2 Bk2 B8 Bk28 G52 Y2 G2 Y4 G2 Y2 G52 Bk28 B40 Bk2 B8 | same as plate | TS215 | |
| 70 | Cranstoun Clan Cranstoun Clan Cranstoun is a Lowland Scottish clan.- Origins of the clan :The name Cranstoun comes from the Barony of Cranstoun in Midlothian. The family owned lands in the counties of Edinburgh and Roxburgh.... |
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Dg28 B2 Dg2 B2 Dg6 B12 Lg24 R4 | same as plate | TS706 | |
| 71 | Graeme Clan Graham Clan Graham is a Scottish clan who had territories in both the Scottish Highlands and Lowlands.-Origins:Legend has it that the first Graham was one Gramus who forced a breach in the Roman Antonine wall known as Graeme's Dyke in 420 A.D... |
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G24 Bk8 G2 Bk8 | same as plate | TS786 | |
| 72 | Maxswel | .png) |
R6 G2 R56 Bk12 R8 G32 R6 | same as plate | TS1500 | |
| 73 | Home Clan Home The Homes are a Scottish family. They were a powerful force in medieval Lothian and the Borders. The chief of the name is David Douglas-Home, 15th Earl of Home.-Origins of the clan:... |
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B6 G4 B60 Bk20 R2 Bk4 R2 Bk70 | same as plate | TS127 | |
| 74 | Johnstoun Clan Johnstone -Origin of the name:Clan Johnstone is a Lowland Scottish clan. They were involved in many battles on the Scottish borders.Johnstone comes from "John's toun", not "John's stone" or "John's son." Historically, "Johnston" has been an alternate spelling of the surname... |
_tartan_(vestiarium_scoticum).png) |
Bk4 B4 Bk4 B48 G60 Bk2 G4 Y6 | same as plate | TS1063 | |
| 75 | Kerr Clan Kerr Clan Kerr is a Scottish clan that played an important role in the history of the Border country of Scotland.-Origins:The origins of the name Kerr are disputed as being either:*Caer *Ciar... |
G40 Bk2 G4 Bk2 G6 Bk28 R56 K2 R4 K8 | same as plate | TS791 |
The Quarterly Review
In June 1847, a highly critical review of the Vestiarium Scoticum was published in the Quarterly Review. Originally published anonymously, the authors are now known to have been Professor George Skene of Glasgow University and the Rev. Dr. Mackay, the editor of the Highland Society's Gaelic Dictionary.The Quarterly Review article was occasioned by the appearance of a book by John Sobieski and Charles Edward Stuart entitled The Tales of the Century. These stories, although presented in fictional terms, lay out the authors' claims to be direct descendants of Prince Charles Edward, the Young Pretender. The Quarterly Review article, while nominally a response to these claims, in fact mainly consisted of an examination of the authenticity of the Vestiarium Scoticum.
In 1848, John Sobieski Stuart replied to the Quarterly Review article with a treatise of his own entitled The Genuineness of the Vestiarium Scoticum. In this reply, Stuart offered the 1721 edition for inspection. For his part, Skene expressed a desire that the original manuscript, that said to have once belonged to Bishop Ross, be exhibited. In the end, no record of anyone examining the 1721 copy at that time exists and no one other than the Sobieski Stuart brothers ever saw the Ross copy.
In 1895, the Glasow Herald published a series of articles entitled "The Vestiarium Scoticum, is it a forgery?" authored by Andrew Ross. Ross was able to locate the 1721 copy, but not any earlier manuscripts. He gave a detailed description of the 1721 copy, and had it subjected to chemical testing by Stevenson Macadam, a chemist. Macadam reported that the "document [bore] evidence of having been treated with chemical agents in order to give the writing a more aged appearance than it is entitled to". He concluded that "the manuscript cannot be depended upon as an ancient document".
This 1721 copy was also presented for examination to a Mr. Robert Irvine, the director of a chemical firm who reported that it was "impossible to arrive at any accurate conclusion pointing to the age of the writing".
In earlier years, there was some discussion of publishing a second edition of the Vestiarium Scoticum (the first edition had a press run of only several dozen copies), but nothing came of these discussions.
External links
- Two pictures of a copy of the Vestiarium Scoticum displayed in the BurnsRobert BurnsRobert Burns was a Scottish poet and a lyricist. He is widely regarded as the national poet of Scotland, and is celebrated worldwide...
House Museum : the book closed and open (an image of a tartan can be seen) - Scans of a copy of the Vestiarium Scoticum (including all tartans drawings) in the web site resources.scottishtartans.org
- Scottish Tartans World Register
- Scottish Tartan Authority
