Simon Yates (mountaineer)
Encyclopedia
Simon Yates is an English
mountaineer
best known through the book Touching the Void
by Joe Simpson
, and the film of the same name. Touching the Void
recounts the 1985 ascent by Yates and Simpson of the West Face of Siula Grande
in the Cordillera Huayhuash
in the Peru
vian Andes
, Simpson's accident on the descent, and Yates's attempt to rescue him. Due to this adventure, he's also known as "the man who cut the rope".
, England
and now lives in Cumbria
. After obtaining a degree in biochemistry
, Yates concentrated on mountaineering and did rope access
work and mountain guiding.
Yates said that he lost contact with Simpson until they went to Peru
to film some scenes for the Touching the Void documentary. He said that Simpson had become "a person he could not relate to" and that "climbing partners are like work colleagues. Some work colleagues go on to become friends, some become acquaintances and some people you work with - well, you rather wish you didn't."
Although best known for the Siula Grande climb, that expedition was a small part of Yates's climbing and mountaineering experience. His other successful expeditions include Laila Peak
and Nemeka in Pakistan
and several expeditions to the Cordillera Darwin
in Chile
.
In July 2009 Simon Yates successfully led a group of four clients to the summit of Lenin Peak
(7134m) for a well-known adventure travel company. In September 2010 Simon planned to return to the Cordillera Huayhuash
to lead a group of trekkers to the base camp of Siula Grande and to the look out point of Cerro Bella Vista where one can see the path where Joe Simpson crawled to safety back in 1985. This will be the 25th anniversary of the famous mountaineering story.
Yates is the author of two autobiographical books about mountaineering. The first, Against the Wall, is about an expedition to climb a new route on the Central Tower of Paine in Chile
an Patagonia
and was short-listed for the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
. His most recent book,The Flame of Adventure, describes a series of climbing adventures around the world.
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages...
mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
best known through the book Touching the Void
Touching the Void
Touching the Void is a 1988 book by Joe Simpson, recounting his and Simon Yates's disastrous and nearly fatal climb of the 6,344-metre Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985....
by Joe Simpson
Joe Simpson (mountaineer)
Joe Simpson is an English mountaineer, author and motivational speaker. He is best known for his book Touching the Void and the 2003 film adaptation of his book.-Early life:...
, and the film of the same name. Touching the Void
Touching the Void
Touching the Void is a 1988 book by Joe Simpson, recounting his and Simon Yates's disastrous and nearly fatal climb of the 6,344-metre Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985....
recounts the 1985 ascent by Yates and Simpson of the West Face of Siula Grande
Siula Grande
Siula Grande is a mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash, in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6344 m high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6260 m high.-Touching the Void ascent:In 1985 Siula Grande was climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates...
in the Cordillera Huayhuash
Cordillera Huayhuash
The Cordillera Huayhuash is a mountain range in the Andes of Peru. It is located in the boundaries of the Ancash Region, Lima Region, y Huanuco Region...
in the Peru
Peru
Peru , officially the Republic of Peru , is a country in western South America. It is bordered on the north by Ecuador and Colombia, on the east by Brazil, on the southeast by Bolivia, on the south by Chile, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean....
vian Andes
Andes
The Andes is the world's longest continental mountain range. It is a continual range of highlands along the western coast of South America. This range is about long, about to wide , and of an average height of about .Along its length, the Andes is split into several ranges, which are separated...
, Simpson's accident on the descent, and Yates's attempt to rescue him. Due to this adventure, he's also known as "the man who cut the rope".
Early life
Yates was born in LeicestershireLeicestershire
Leicestershire is a landlocked county in the English Midlands. It takes its name from the heavily populated City of Leicester, traditionally its administrative centre, although the City of Leicester unitary authority is today administered separately from the rest of Leicestershire...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
and now lives in Cumbria
Cumbria
Cumbria , is a non-metropolitan county in North West England. The county and Cumbria County Council, its local authority, came into existence in 1974 after the passage of the Local Government Act 1972. Cumbria's largest settlement and county town is Carlisle. It consists of six districts, and in...
. After obtaining a degree in biochemistry
Biochemistry
Biochemistry, sometimes called biological chemistry, is the study of chemical processes in living organisms, including, but not limited to, living matter. Biochemistry governs all living organisms and living processes...
, Yates concentrated on mountaineering and did rope access
Rope access
Rope access is a form of work positioning, initially developed from techniques used in climbing and caving, which applies practical ropework to allow workers to access difficult-to-reach locations without the use of scaffolding, cradles or mobile elevated work platforms MEWPs...
work and mountain guiding.
Career
The famous incident on Siula Grande has had some repercussions upon Yates after his return from the climb. Some mountaineers, mainly the old guard, were very critical of his decision to cut the rope on his partner. Yates argued that he could not rely upon an army of people to help since they were cut from the world on the mountain flank with a raging storm in progress. Despite this decision, his rescue attempt has contributed significantly to save Simpson life. Simpson has always vehemently defended Yates, saying he would have done it himself had the roles been reversed. From now on, Yates would often been referred to as "The man who cut the rope", a nickname he says "is likely to stay with me for the rest of my life".Yates said that he lost contact with Simpson until they went to Peru
Peru
Peru , officially the Republic of Peru , is a country in western South America. It is bordered on the north by Ecuador and Colombia, on the east by Brazil, on the southeast by Bolivia, on the south by Chile, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean....
to film some scenes for the Touching the Void documentary. He said that Simpson had become "a person he could not relate to" and that "climbing partners are like work colleagues. Some work colleagues go on to become friends, some become acquaintances and some people you work with - well, you rather wish you didn't."
Although best known for the Siula Grande climb, that expedition was a small part of Yates's climbing and mountaineering experience. His other successful expeditions include Laila Peak
Laila Peak (Hushe Valley)
Laila Peak in Hushe Valley near Gondogoro glacier is in Karakoram range and is high. It has a distinctive spear-like shape. Its northwest face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical metres.It has been climbed by Simon Yates, among others...
and Nemeka in Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
and several expeditions to the Cordillera Darwin
Cordillera Darwin
The Cordillera Darwin is an extensive mountain range mantled by an ice field. It is located in the southwestern portion of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, entirely within the Chilean territory. It is part of the longest Andes range and includes the highest mountains in Tierra del Fuego, with...
in Chile
Chile
Chile ,officially the Republic of Chile , is a country in South America occupying a long, narrow coastal strip between the Andes mountains to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. It borders Peru to the north, Bolivia to the northeast, Argentina to the east, and the Drake Passage in the far...
.
In July 2009 Simon Yates successfully led a group of four clients to the summit of Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak , rises to in Gorno-Badakhshan on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, and is the second-highest point of both countries. It is considered one of the easiest 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb and it has by far the most ascents of any 7,000 m or higher peak on earth, with every...
(7134m) for a well-known adventure travel company. In September 2010 Simon planned to return to the Cordillera Huayhuash
Cordillera Huayhuash
The Cordillera Huayhuash is a mountain range in the Andes of Peru. It is located in the boundaries of the Ancash Region, Lima Region, y Huanuco Region...
to lead a group of trekkers to the base camp of Siula Grande and to the look out point of Cerro Bella Vista where one can see the path where Joe Simpson crawled to safety back in 1985. This will be the 25th anniversary of the famous mountaineering story.
Yates is the author of two autobiographical books about mountaineering. The first, Against the Wall, is about an expedition to climb a new route on the Central Tower of Paine in Chile
Chile
Chile ,officially the Republic of Chile , is a country in South America occupying a long, narrow coastal strip between the Andes mountains to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. It borders Peru to the north, Bolivia to the northeast, Argentina to the east, and the Drake Passage in the far...
an Patagonia
Patagonia
Patagonia is a region located in Argentina and Chile, integrating the southernmost section of the Andes mountains to the southwest towards the Pacific ocean and from the east of the cordillera to the valleys it follows south through Colorado River towards Carmen de Patagones in the Atlantic Ocean...
and was short-listed for the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature is an annual prize of £3000 awarded by the Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust to an author or authors for 'an original work which has made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature.' It was established in memory of Peter Boardman and Joe...
. His most recent book,The Flame of Adventure, describes a series of climbing adventures around the world.