Ottorino Mezzalama
Encyclopedia
Ottorino Mezzalama was an Italian
mountain climber, and is deemed to be one of the two pioneers of Italian ski mountaineering
besides Luciano Roiti. He died in an avalanche accident in the Rochemolles Valley. The Mezzalama Glacier in the Italian part of the Pennine Alps
, the Ottorino Mezzalama Hut of the Club Alpino Italiano
(CAI) at the Pollux as well as the famous Trofeo Mezzalama competition and the Mezzalama Skyrace were named in honor of him.
and moved with his family to Turin
on March 28, 1892. In his teens he gained first experiences in mountain climbing. He was a good friend of the Swiss engineer Adolfo Kind
and of the artillery Lieutenant Luciano Roiti, who published "Delle marce sulla neve" (Italian for about marching on snow), a paper about ski mountaineering in the army. All three became members of the CAI and founded the Ski Club Torino.
After he finished school, Mezzalama began his studies at the university faculty of trading and economy, but had to leave the university because he was drafted by the army in 1909. In the Italo-Turkish War
he was deployed in the rank of a Sergente
at the Libya
n front in 1912, and was awarded for his service. After his release in 1913, he continued his university studies as well as skiing and mountain climbing.
, he was drafted again by the army in October 1915. Together with his later friend Pietro Ghiglione, a mountain climber and writer, he served in the 3rd Alpini Regiment. Concerning to his advanced academic studies, he was made Sottotenente, became Tenente
in 1916 and Capitano in 1917. During his services he was technical director of military ski training. He gave his first course at the Little St Bernard Pass
,the second in the Champorcher
Valley, and further ones in several alpine areas apart the conflict areas. All in all he trained about 3,000 "White Warriors from the Adamello" of 26 skiing units of 13 battalions until 1917, the year when the 3rd Alpini Regiment got the name affix "Courmayeur
"
It is reported, that Mezzolama always wore a big 15–25 kg rucksack on his ski tours, that he never left to anybody. In care of possible surprises in the mountains, it contained all essentially things. Mezzalama commented, that the only thing, that would be really planable was the start of a ski tour, never the return.
on ski and amongst others, he took part in the first Italian complete Mont Blanc
ski-run in 1927.
Mezzolama was one of the volunteers, who took part in a search and rescue action, after an avalanche descended in the Rochemolles Valley upside the Bardonecchia
in 1931. 20 Alpini
s of the 3rd Regiment were missed.
Mezzalama and Domenico Mazzocchi were overtaken by a thunderstorm on the peak of the Bicchiere, and were urged to stay in the frosty "Elena" Hut (today: "Rifugio Gino Biasi") for three days. They were both worn out, when they descended on the fourth day, and when an avalanche caught Mezzalama and carried him downhill. Mazzocchi tried to find him till the darkness rose, but his attempts were in vain. On the next day, his corpse was found by a team of the CAI Bolzano
section.
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
mountain climber, and is deemed to be one of the two pioneers of Italian ski mountaineering
Ski mountaineering
Ski mountaineering is form of ski touring that variously combines the sports of Telemark, Alpine, and backcountry skiing with that of mountaineering...
besides Luciano Roiti. He died in an avalanche accident in the Rochemolles Valley. The Mezzalama Glacier in the Italian part of the Pennine Alps
Pennine Alps
The Pennine Alps are a mountain range in the western part of the Alps. They are located in Switzerland and Italy...
, the Ottorino Mezzalama Hut of the Club Alpino Italiano
Club Alpino Italiano
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment...
(CAI) at the Pollux as well as the famous Trofeo Mezzalama competition and the Mezzalama Skyrace were named in honor of him.
Life
Mezzalama was born in BolognaBologna
Bologna is the capital city of Emilia-Romagna, in the Po Valley of Northern Italy. The city lies between the Po River and the Apennine Mountains, more specifically, between the Reno River and the Savena River. Bologna is a lively and cosmopolitan Italian college city, with spectacular history,...
and moved with his family to Turin
Turin
Turin is a city and major business and cultural centre in northern Italy, capital of the Piedmont region, located mainly on the left bank of the Po River and surrounded by the Alpine arch. The population of the city proper is 909,193 while the population of the urban area is estimated by Eurostat...
on March 28, 1892. In his teens he gained first experiences in mountain climbing. He was a good friend of the Swiss engineer Adolfo Kind
Adolfo Kind
Adolf respectively Adolfo Kind was a Swiss chemical engineer and one of the fathers of Italian skiing.- Life :Kind was a member of an old Walser family which had been living in Chur for more than 4 centuries...
and of the artillery Lieutenant Luciano Roiti, who published "Delle marce sulla neve" (Italian for about marching on snow), a paper about ski mountaineering in the army. All three became members of the CAI and founded the Ski Club Torino.
After he finished school, Mezzalama began his studies at the university faculty of trading and economy, but had to leave the university because he was drafted by the army in 1909. In the Italo-Turkish War
Italo-Turkish War
The Italo-Turkish or Turco-Italian War was fought between the Ottoman Empire and the Kingdom of Italy from September 29, 1911 to October 18, 1912.As a result of this conflict, Italy was awarded the Ottoman provinces of Tripolitania, Fezzan, and...
he was deployed in the rank of a Sergente
Sergeant
Sergeant is a rank used in some form by most militaries, police forces, and other uniformed organizations around the world. Its origins are the Latin serviens, "one who serves", through the French term Sergent....
at the Libya
Libya
Libya is an African country in the Maghreb region of North Africa bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the north, Egypt to the east, Sudan to the southeast, Chad and Niger to the south, and Algeria and Tunisia to the west....
n front in 1912, and was awarded for his service. After his release in 1913, he continued his university studies as well as skiing and mountain climbing.
World War I
In the course of the general Italian mobilization during World War IWorld War I
World War I , which was predominantly called the World War or the Great War from its occurrence until 1939, and the First World War or World War I thereafter, was a major war centred in Europe that began on 28 July 1914 and lasted until 11 November 1918...
, he was drafted again by the army in October 1915. Together with his later friend Pietro Ghiglione, a mountain climber and writer, he served in the 3rd Alpini Regiment. Concerning to his advanced academic studies, he was made Sottotenente, became Tenente
Lieutenant
A lieutenant is a junior commissioned officer in many nations' armed forces. Typically, the rank of lieutenant in naval usage, while still a junior officer rank, is senior to the army rank...
in 1916 and Capitano in 1917. During his services he was technical director of military ski training. He gave his first course at the Little St Bernard Pass
Little St Bernard Pass
The Little St Bernard Pass is a mountain pass in the Alps on the France–Italy border. Its saddle is at 2188 metres above sea level. It is located between Savoie, France and Aosta Valley, Italy to the south of the Mont Blanc Massif, precisely on the main alpine watershed. There is also a Great St...
,the second in the Champorcher
Champorcher
Champorcher is a comune in the Aosta Valley region of north-western Italy, the main town in the Champorcher Valley....
Valley, and further ones in several alpine areas apart the conflict areas. All in all he trained about 3,000 "White Warriors from the Adamello" of 26 skiing units of 13 battalions until 1917, the year when the 3rd Alpini Regiment got the name affix "Courmayeur
Courmayeur
Courmayeur is an Italian town and comune in the autonomous region of Aosta Valley, in northern Italy. It is located at the foot of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe, in the Graian Alps range, and is crossed by the Dora Baltea...
"
It is reported, that Mezzolama always wore a big 15–25 kg rucksack on his ski tours, that he never left to anybody. In care of possible surprises in the mountains, it contained all essentially things. Mezzalama commented, that the only thing, that would be really planable was the start of a ski tour, never the return.
Postwar period
After the war he returned to the university and lived together with his mother. Additionally he explored the AlpsAlps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
on ski and amongst others, he took part in the first Italian complete Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco , meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps, Western Europe and the European Union. It rises above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence...
ski-run in 1927.
Mezzolama was one of the volunteers, who took part in a search and rescue action, after an avalanche descended in the Rochemolles Valley upside the Bardonecchia
Bardonecchia
Bardonecchia is an Italian town and comune located in the Province of Turin, in the Piedmont region, in the western part of Susa Valley....
in 1931. 20 Alpini
Alpini
The Alpini, , are the elite mountain warfare soldiers of the Italian Army. They are currently organized in two operational brigades, which are subordinated to the Alpini Corps Command. The singular is Alpino ....
s of the 3rd Regiment were missed.
Mezzalama and Domenico Mazzocchi were overtaken by a thunderstorm on the peak of the Bicchiere, and were urged to stay in the frosty "Elena" Hut (today: "Rifugio Gino Biasi") for three days. They were both worn out, when they descended on the fourth day, and when an avalanche caught Mezzalama and carried him downhill. Mazzocchi tried to find him till the darkness rose, but his attempts were in vain. On the next day, his corpse was found by a team of the CAI Bolzano
Bolzano Novarese
Bolzano Novarese is a comune in the Province of Novara in the Italian region of Piedmont, located about 100 km northeast of Turin and about 40 km northwest of Novara...
section.
Literature
- Umberto Pelazza, Antonio Vizzi: Mezzalama Trophy - Myth and Reality 1933–1997.