Jojoba ester
Encyclopedia
Jojoba esters are the hydrogenation
or interesterification
product of Jojoba oil
. Interesterified Jojoba Esters are commonly used in cosmetic
formulations as an emollient, due to its remarkable similarity to the natural oils produced by the human skin, and its high oxidative stability. Fully hydrogenated jojoba esters are most often small beads used to exfoliate
the skin.
component of jojoba esters.
Chemically, jojoba esters are a complex mixture of long chain (C36-C46) fatty acid
s and fatty alcohol
s joined by an ester bond. Jojoba esters are produced by the interesterification of jojoba oil, hydrogenated
jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two. Pure jojoba oil and pure hydrogenated jojoba oil
are also correctly described as jojoba esters. The CTFA does not regard partially-hydrogenated jojoba oil as jojoba esters. For this reason, jojoba esters must not contain any trans-unsaturation. Jojoba esters' chemical structure is very similar to that of human sebum and of whale oil
.
, coconut oil
, macadamia oil
, even many fractions of mineral oil
.
such as lipstick
s, shampoos and moisturizing lotions. Jojoba esters may be ethoxylated
to form such water-soluble materials as PEG-150 Jojoba
, PEG-120 Jojoba
or PEG-80 Jojoba
. Jojoba esters are excellent botanical substitutes for whale oil
and its derivatives, such as cetyl alcohol
and spermaceti
.
Hydrogenation
Hydrogenation, to treat with hydrogen, also a form of chemical reduction, is a chemical reaction between molecular hydrogen and another compound or element, usually in the presence of a catalyst. The process is commonly employed to reduce or saturate organic compounds. Hydrogenation typically...
or interesterification
Transesterification
In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group R″ of an ester with the organic group R′ of an alcohol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acid or base catalyst...
product of Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil is the liquid wax produced in the seed of the jojoba plant, a shrub native to southern Arizona, southern California, and northwestern Mexico. The oil makes up approximately 50% of the jojoba seed by weight....
. Interesterified Jojoba Esters are commonly used in cosmetic
Cosmetics
Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body. Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and...
formulations as an emollient, due to its remarkable similarity to the natural oils produced by the human skin, and its high oxidative stability. Fully hydrogenated jojoba esters are most often small beads used to exfoliate
Exfoliation (cosmetology)
Exfoliation involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas...
the skin.
Chemical structure
Jojoba esters are proper waxes; there is no triglycerideTriglyceride
A triglyceride is an ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. There are many triglycerides, depending on the oil source, some are highly unsaturated, some less so....
component of jojoba esters.
Chemically, jojoba esters are a complex mixture of long chain (C36-C46) fatty acid
Fatty acid
In chemistry, especially biochemistry, a fatty acid is a carboxylic acid with a long unbranched aliphatic tail , which is either saturated or unsaturated. Most naturally occurring fatty acids have a chain of an even number of carbon atoms, from 4 to 28. Fatty acids are usually derived from...
s and fatty alcohol
Fatty alcohol
Fatty alcohols are aliphatic alcohols consisting of a chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols usually have even number of carbon atoms and a single alcohol group attached to the terminal carbon. Some are unsaturated and some are branched...
s joined by an ester bond. Jojoba esters are produced by the interesterification of jojoba oil, hydrogenated
Hydrogenation
Hydrogenation, to treat with hydrogen, also a form of chemical reduction, is a chemical reaction between molecular hydrogen and another compound or element, usually in the presence of a catalyst. The process is commonly employed to reduce or saturate organic compounds. Hydrogenation typically...
jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two. Pure jojoba oil and pure hydrogenated jojoba oil
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
Hydrogenated jojoba oil is the end product of the complete hydrogenation of jojoba oil.- Chemical structure :Hydrogenated jojoba oil is a straight-chain wax ester of 36 to 46 carbons in length, an ester bond in the approximate middle of the chain, no branching, no points of unsaturation, and...
are also correctly described as jojoba esters. The CTFA does not regard partially-hydrogenated jojoba oil as jojoba esters. For this reason, jojoba esters must not contain any trans-unsaturation. Jojoba esters' chemical structure is very similar to that of human sebum and of whale oil
Whale oil
Whale oil is the oil obtained from the blubber of various species of whales, particularly the three species of right whale and the bowhead whale prior to the modern era, as well as several other species of baleen whale...
.
Physical properties
Physically, jojoba esters are an odourless, colourless liquid, white cream, or hard white wax, with melting points ranging from 15°C to 70°C. Their texture and crystallinity may be modified by rapid cooling, thus altering their cosmetic properties. Jojoba esters are very resistant to oxidation, more so than castor oilCastor oil
Castor oil is a vegetable oil obtained from the castor bean . Castor oil is a colorless to very pale yellow liquid with mild or no odor or taste. Its boiling point is and its density is 961 kg/m3...
, coconut oil
Coconut oil
Coconut oil is an edible oil extracted from the kernel or meat of matured coconuts harvested from the coconut palm . Throughout the tropical world, it has provided the primary source of fat in the diets of millions of people for generations. It has various applications in food, medicine, and industry...
, macadamia oil
Macadamia
Macadamia is a genus of nine species of flowering plants in the family Proteaceae, with a disjunct distribution native to eastern Australia , New Caledonia and Sulawesi in Indonesia ....
, even many fractions of mineral oil
Mineral oil
A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable source, particularly a distillate of petroleum....
.
Uses
Jojoba esters are mainly used as emollients in cosmeticsCosmetics
Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body. Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and...
such as lipstick
Lipstick
Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color, texture, and protection to the lips. Many varieties of lipstick are known. As with most other types of makeup, lipstick is typically, but not exclusively, worn by women...
s, shampoos and moisturizing lotions. Jojoba esters may be ethoxylated
Ethoxylation
Ethoxylation is an industrial process in which ethylene oxide is added to alcohols and phenols to give surfactants. The invention of the process is attributed to Schöller and Wittwer at I.G. Farben industrie.-Production:...
to form such water-soluble materials as PEG-150 Jojoba
PEG-150 Jojoba
PEG-150 Hydrogenated Jojoba is an ethoxylated version of fully hydrogenated jojoba wax and the most water soluble form of jojoba available. This versatile emollient functions as a secondary emulsifier and provides viscosity adjustments in hair care formulas and fragrance oil solubilization in...
, PEG-120 Jojoba
PEG-120 Jojoba
PEG-120 Jojoba is the polyethylene glycol derivative of the acids and alcohols obtained from the saponification of jojoba oil with an average ethoxylation value of 120. PEG-120 Jojoba is commonly used in cosmetic formulations such as toothpaste....
or PEG-80 Jojoba
PEG-80 Jojoba
PEG-80 Jojoba is the polyethylene glycol derivative of the acids and alcohols obtained from the saponification of jojoba oil with an average ethoxylation value of 80. PEG-80 Jojoba is commonly used in cosmetic formulations....
. Jojoba esters are excellent botanical substitutes for whale oil
Whale oil
Whale oil is the oil obtained from the blubber of various species of whales, particularly the three species of right whale and the bowhead whale prior to the modern era, as well as several other species of baleen whale...
and its derivatives, such as cetyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol, also known as 1-hexadecanol and palmityl alcohol, is a fatty alcohol with the chemical formula CH315OH. At room temperature, cetyl alcohol takes the form of a waxy white solid or flakes....
and spermaceti
Spermaceti
Spermaceti is a wax present in the head cavities of the sperm whale . Originally mistaken for the whales' sperm , spermaceti is created in the spermaceti organ inside the whale's head and connected to its nasal passage...
.