Charles of the Ritz
Encyclopedia
Charles of the Ritz is a former cosmetics brand known for its line of perfume
fragrances.
Charles Jundt
took over the Manhattan
beauty salon of the New York City Ritz (later the Ritz-Carlton
) hotel. He founded his own cosmetics company in 1919, and in 1926, began marketing beauty products under the name "Charles of the Ritz". Perfume was added to this line in 1927. Below is a list of the house fragrances and their year of launch.
from 1979-88.
In 1935, Charles of the Ritz launched the highly successful Jean Nate line of body splashes and fragrance. They later acquired the cosmetics company Alexandra de Markoff.
Charles of the Ritz expanded distribution from upscale salons into upper-end department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue
and Neiman Marcus
. In the early 1950s, he was said to have mimicked Estée Lauder
and her practice of free samples and gifts with purchase, saying "you will never go anywhere in this industry."
. Ritz launched an entire line of skincare and makeup under the Yves Saint Laurent Beaute brand.
In 1964 Charles of the Ritz merged with the Lanvin
group. It was from then on known as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz.
In 1969 the legendary makeup artist Way Bandy
joined Charles of the Ritz as the salon director of makeup.
, with a market value of $100 million.
In 1977, Yves Saint Laurent Beaute launched Opium
.
In 1978, Ritz introduced a new women's fragrance, Enjoli, designed (as noted in its popular television commercials) as "the eight hour perfume for the 24-hour woman"; the commercial's theme song was a remake of Peggy Lee
's 1963 hit song I'm A Woman
. In 1984 Charles of the Ritz launched the immensely successful fragrances based on American television drama Dynasty
characters Forever Krystle and Carrington.
in 1987. Revlon, still reeling from its unsuccessful takeover attempt of Gilette in 1983, declared they were interested in several acquisitions and, with Charles of the Ritz, they bought Max Factor
, Almay
, Halston
, Borghese
, and Germaine Monteil
.
Revlon could not manage the brand and it began to slip in image and prestige. In 1991 they launched a line called Express, aimed at a more savvy customer. The brand became associated with lower-end stores like J. C. Penney
and maintained a focus on the "mature" customer. After several years of unsuccessful revival attempts (including an endorsement deal with Kathie Lee Gifford
for their Timeless line) and facing massive debt, Revlon put (among many others) the line for sale, but had no takers. Analysts suggested the very name — Charles of the Ritz — lacked consumer recognition.
Perfume
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and/or aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, animals, objects, and living spaces "a pleasant scent"...
fragrances.
Foreground
In 1916, coiffeurHairdresser
Hairdresser is a term referring to anyone whose occupation is to cut or style hair in order to change or maintain a person's image. This is achieved using a combination of hair coloring, haircutting, and hair texturing techniques...
Charles Jundt
Charles Jundt
Charles Jundt was the New York City coiffeur who founded the Charles of the Ritz line of cosmetics products.Jundt came to New York and in 1916 took over the beauty salon of the Ritz-Carlton hotel...
took over the Manhattan
Manhattan
Manhattan is the oldest and the most densely populated of the five boroughs of New York City. Located primarily on the island of Manhattan at the mouth of the Hudson River, the boundaries of the borough are identical to those of New York County, an original county of the state of New York...
beauty salon of the New York City Ritz (later the Ritz-Carlton
Ritz-Carlton
The Ritz-Carlton is a brand of luxury hotels and resorts with 75 properties located in major cities and resorts in 24 countries worldwide...
) hotel. He founded his own cosmetics company in 1919, and in 1926, began marketing beauty products under the name "Charles of the Ritz". Perfume was added to this line in 1927. Below is a list of the house fragrances and their year of launch.
| Fragrance name | Year of launch |
|---|---|
| A | 1927 |
| B | 1927 |
| c | 1927 |
| Jean Nate | 1935 |
| Spur | 1937 |
| Tingle | 1938 |
| Summertime | 1939 |
| Wintertime | 1940 |
| Love Potion | 1941 |
| Spring Rain | 1941 |
| Flower Show | 1942 |
| Jester | 1944 |
| Sea Shell | 1944 |
| Soignee | 1944 |
| Water Sprite | 1944 |
| An English Garden | 1945 |
| Damask | 1945 |
| Little Women | 1945 |
| Ritual | 1945 |
| Baby Pink | 1947 |
| Directoire | 1948 |
| French Provincial | 1949 |
| Floreal | 1950 |
| Country Wedding | 1951 |
| Ishah | 1954 |
| Simone Mounir | 1957 |
| Ritz (Classic) | 1972 |
| Charles of the Ritz | 1977 |
| Enjoli | 1978 |
| Charivari | 1978 |
| Aston | 1979 |
| Senchal | 1981 |
| Forever Krystle | 1984 |
| Carrington | 1984 |
| Xi'a Xi'ang | 1987 |
History
In 1932, at the age of 24, Richard B. Salomon was named president of Charles of the Ritz, Inc. Twenty years later, he was elected chairman and chief executive officer. Salomon was an internationally known businessman, philanthropist and humanitarian who served as chancellor of Brown UniversityBrown University
Brown University is a private, Ivy League university located in Providence, Rhode Island, United States. Founded in 1764 prior to American independence from the British Empire as the College in the English Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations early in the reign of King George III ,...
from 1979-88.
In 1935, Charles of the Ritz launched the highly successful Jean Nate line of body splashes and fragrance. They later acquired the cosmetics company Alexandra de Markoff.
Charles of the Ritz expanded distribution from upscale salons into upper-end department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue
Saks Fifth Avenue
Saks Fifth Avenue is a luxury American specialty store owned and operated by Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises , a subsidiary of Saks Incorporated. It competes in the high-end specialty store market in the Upper East Side of Manhattan, i.e. 'the 3 B's' Bergdorf, Barneys, Bloomingdale's and Lord & Taylor...
and Neiman Marcus
Neiman Marcus
Neiman Marcus, formerly Neiman-Marcus, is a luxury specialty retail department store operated by the Neiman Marcus Group in the United States. The company is headquartered in the One Marcus Square building in Downtown Dallas, Texas, and competes with other department stores such as Saks Fifth...
. In the early 1950s, he was said to have mimicked Estée Lauder
Estée Lauder (person)
Estée Lauder was an American businesswoman who was the co-founder, along with her husband Joseph Lauder, of Estée Lauder Companies, a pioneering cosmetics company. Lauder was the only woman on TIME magazine's 1998 list of the 20 most influential business geniuses of the 20th century. She was the...
and her practice of free samples and gifts with purchase, saying "you will never go anywhere in this industry."
Expansion
In 1963, Ritz acquired 80% of the house of Yves Saint LaurentYves Saint Laurent (brand)
Yves Saint Laurent or YSL is a luxury fashion house founded by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. Today, its chief designer is Stefano Pilati. Yves Saint Laurent, founder of the brand, died in 2008.-History:...
. Ritz launched an entire line of skincare and makeup under the Yves Saint Laurent Beaute brand.
In 1964 Charles of the Ritz merged with the Lanvin
Lanvin (clothing)
Lanvin is a high fashion house founded by Jeanne Lanvin.-History:Lanvin made such beautiful clothes for her daughter that they began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children...
group. It was from then on known as Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz.
In 1969 the legendary makeup artist Way Bandy
Way Bandy
Ronald Wright was an American make-up artist.Bandy arrived in New York City in the mid-1960s and began working at a modeling school as a makeup teacher...
joined Charles of the Ritz as the salon director of makeup.
E.R. Squibb ownership
In 1972, Salomon retired, and the company was acquired by pharmaceutical company E.R. SquibbBristol-Myers Squibb
Bristol-Myers Squibb , often referred to as BMS, is a pharmaceutical company, headquartered in New York City. The company was formed in 1989, following the merger of its predecessors Bristol-Myers and the Squibb Corporation...
, with a market value of $100 million.
In 1977, Yves Saint Laurent Beaute launched Opium
Opium (perfume)
Opium is an Oriental-spicy perfume created for fashion brand Yves Saint Laurent by perfumer Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac of Roure, first marketed in 1977. Its top notes are a mixture of fruit and spices, with mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander and pepper, as well as bay leaf...
.
In 1978, Ritz introduced a new women's fragrance, Enjoli, designed (as noted in its popular television commercials) as "the eight hour perfume for the 24-hour woman"; the commercial's theme song was a remake of Peggy Lee
Peggy Lee
Peggy Lee was an American jazz and popular music singer, songwriter, composer, and actress in a career spanning six decades. From her beginning as a vocalist on local radio to singing with Benny Goodman's big band, she forged a sophisticated persona, evolving into a multi-faceted artist and...
's 1963 hit song I'm A Woman
I'm a Woman (song)
The song "I'm a Woman" was written by famed songwriting duo Jerry Leiber and Mike Stoller, and was first recorded in 1962 by Christine Kittrell. It was also the title song to Peggy Lee's 1963 album I'm a Woman . It was a minor hit single for Lee, reaching number 54 on U.S...
. In 1984 Charles of the Ritz launched the immensely successful fragrances based on American television drama Dynasty
Dynasty
A dynasty is a sequence of rulers considered members of the same family. Historians traditionally consider many sovereign states' history within a framework of successive dynasties, e.g., China, Ancient Egypt and the Persian Empire...
characters Forever Krystle and Carrington.
Yves Saint Laurent to Revlon ownership
In 1986, Squibb sold the entire division back to Yves Saint Laurent for $500 million, who invested heavily in a new men's frangrance called Jazz. Jazz was not particularly successful and, coupled with the October 1987 market crash, Yves Saint Laurent sold Charles of the Ritz Incorporated (excluding Yves Saint Laurent Beaute) to RevlonRevlon
Revlon is an American cosmetics, skin care, fragrance, and personal care company founded in 1932.-History:Revlon was founded in the midst of the Great Depression, 1932, by Charles Revson and his brother Joseph, along with a chemist, Charles Lachman, who contributed the "L" in the Revlon name...
in 1987. Revlon, still reeling from its unsuccessful takeover attempt of Gilette in 1983, declared they were interested in several acquisitions and, with Charles of the Ritz, they bought Max Factor
Max Factor
Max Factor & Company is a cosmetics company, founded during 1909 by Maksymilian Faktorowicz , Max Factor, a Polish-Jewish cosmetician. Max Factor & Company was a related, two-family, multi-generational international cosmetics company before its sale in 1973 for $500 million dollars...
, Almay
Almay
Almay is a cosmetics brand owned by Revlon, along with other brands including Revlon, Ultima II, ColorStay, Flex, New Complexion, Revlon Age Defying, and Charlie.- History :...
, Halston
Halston
Roy Halston Frowick, also known as Halston was a clothing designer of the 1970s. His long dresses or copies of his style were popular fashion wear in mid-1970s discotheques.-Early life and career:...
, Borghese
Borghese
Borghese is the surname of a family of Italian noble and papal background, originating as the Borghese or Borghesi in Siena, where they came to prominence in the 13th century holding offices under the commune. The head of the family, Marcantonio, moved to Rome in the 16th century and there,...
, and Germaine Monteil
Germaine Monteil
Germaine Monteil was a New York based French fashion designer and cosmetician who founded the cosmetics and perfume company sharing her name.-Fashion:...
.
Revlon could not manage the brand and it began to slip in image and prestige. In 1991 they launched a line called Express, aimed at a more savvy customer. The brand became associated with lower-end stores like J. C. Penney
J. C. Penney
-External links:*...
and maintained a focus on the "mature" customer. After several years of unsuccessful revival attempts (including an endorsement deal with Kathie Lee Gifford
Kathie Lee Gifford
Kathie Lee Gifford is an American television host, singer, songwriter and actress, best known for her 15-year run on the talk show Live with Regis and Kathie Lee, which she co-hosted with Regis Philbin...
for their Timeless line) and facing massive debt, Revlon put (among many others) the line for sale, but had no takers. Analysts suggested the very name — Charles of the Ritz — lacked consumer recognition.