Changuch
Encyclopedia
Changuch is a Himalayan
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...

 mountain peak situated at the boundary of Pithoragarh
Pithoragarh
Pithoragarh, is a city with a Municipal Board in the Pithoragarh district in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, was carved out of district of Almora in 1962.-Geography:...

 and Bageshwar
Bageshwar
Bageshwar is a city and a municipal board in Bageshwar district in the state of Uttarakhand, India. It is also the administrative headquarters of Bageshwar district....

 district of the Uttarakhand
Uttarakhand
Uttarakhand , formerly Uttaranchal, is a state in the northern part of India. It is often referred to as the Land of Gods due to the many holy Hindu temples and cities found throughout the state, some of which are among Hinduism's most spiritual and auspicious places of pilgrimage and worship...

 state of India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...

. This peak is situated above the Pindari Glacier
Pindari Glacier
The Pindari Glacier is a glacier found in the upper reaches of the Kumaon Himalayas, to the southeast of Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot. The glacier flows to the south for a short distance of about and gives rise to the Pindari River which meets the Alakananda at Karnaprayag in the Garhwal district.The...

. This peak offers a ridge leading to Nanda Kot
Nanda Kot
Nanda Kot is a mountain peak of the Himalaya range located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand state in India. It lies in the Kumaon Himalaya, just outside of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, southeast of Nanda Devi itself...

. On its massif Traill's pass
Traill's Pass
Traill's Pass is a mountain pass through the Himalayas located between Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot peaks in the Uttarakhand state in the districts of Pithoragarh and Bageshwar in India....

is situated, which connects Pindari valley to Goriganga valley. The first successful ascent to the peak was made by an Indo-British team on June 9, 2009 at 9 am.

Attempts of 1987, 1997, 2007 & 2009

Attempts were made in the years 1987,1997 and 2007 and all three of them had failed. All these unsuccessful expeditions were through Pindari valley. Indo-British Mt. Changuch Expedition of 1987 was led by B. Mukhoty. They were forced to retreat. The expedition of 1997 was led by G. Murray. This expedition also failed to reach the summit and third attempt for this peak led by navy commander s dam with a joint expedition Indian navy-IMF. The expedition was again unsuccessful due to an avalanche and death of two member at a height of 5200 mtr. The two following teams also attempted the peak in 2009. one team led by Basanta Singha Roy,Unlike the British, the seven member team from West Bengal was not successful in climbing the peak. They crossed Trail’s pass en route and entered Lawan gad from Pindar valley. They established their summit camp at 5640 m on 29 August on the northwest ridge connecting Changuch with Nandakhat. Technical difficulties stopped the attempt at that point.anoyther expedition organised by Altitude High Adventure of 14 members Indian team attempted the paek in the post-monsoon season due to bad weather and snowfall they had to called off the expedition. They reached 300 m above their Camp 2, which was established at 5180 m.

British Expedition of 2009 - The First recorded successful ascent

In 2009, a British expedition led by Martin Moran approached the peak from Lawan Valley, an easier route compared to the one taken by previous attempts of 1987, 1997 and 2007 and made a successful ascent on June 9, 2009. Expedition's original target was Nanda Devi East. However, during the course of expedition, due to difficult conditions and lack of resources to meet original target, they shifted the target to the nearby Changuch.

Indian Expedition of 2011 - The second recorded successful ascent (First Indian ascent)

In 2011 Indian Mountaineering Foundation send an Indian expedition to the peak led by Dhruv Joshi went via Pindari glacier and 5 members made a successful ascent on June 17, 2011 at 0950 am. Expedition consisted of 8 members. The team is as follows: Dhruv Joshi (leader), Dr. Anand Vaidhya (Medical Officer), Wallambok Lyngdoh, Bharat Bhushan , Takpa Norboo, Chetan Pandey, Mahesh S Dharamsaktu & Harish Kumar.No high altitudes porters were employed in this expedition. This is the second ascent of Changuch and first Indian and first from Pindari Glacier side.
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