Canacona
Encyclopedia
Canacona is an administrative region in south Goa
Goa
Goa , a former Portuguese colony, is India's smallest state by area and the fourth smallest by population. Located in South West India in the region known as the Konkan, it is bounded by the state of Maharashtra to the north, and by Karnataka to the east and south, while the Arabian Sea forms its...

, in India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...

.

Canacona is one of the five talukas that constitute the South Goa
South Goa
South Goa is one of the two districts that comprise the state of Goa, India. The district has an area of 1,966 km² and a population of 586,591...

 district. It is bounded on the north by the taluka of Quepem
Quepem
Quepem is a town and a municipal council in South Goa district in the Indian state of Goa.The town is the administrative capital for the Quepem district. Curchorem and Sanvordem are the a major towns located in the Quepem District.-Geography:...

, on the northeast by Sanguem
Sanguem
Sanguem is a city and a municipal council in South Goa district in the Indian state of Goa.Notable landmarks include the Sagameshwar Temple, Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park and the Salaulim Dam.-Geography:...

, on the south by the state of Karnataka
Karnataka
Karnataka , the land of the Kannadigas, is a state in South West India. It was created on 1 November 1956, with the passing of the States Reorganisation Act and this day is annually celebrated as Karnataka Rajyotsava...

, and on the west by the Arabian Sea
Arabian Sea
The Arabian Sea is a region of the Indian Ocean bounded on the east by India, on the north by Pakistan and Iran, on the west by the Arabian Peninsula, on the south, approximately, by a line between Cape Guardafui in northeastern Somalia and Kanyakumari in India...

. The town of Chaudi
Chaudi
Chaudi is a town in the South Goa District and is approximately two km from Kankon....

 is the administrative headquarters of the taluka of Canacona.

The name Canacona is a correction of the name Konkan. The area was one of the districts of the former Kingdom of Soonda, itself a remnant of the former Vijayanagara Empire
Vijayanagara Empire
The Vijayanagara Empire , referred as the Kingdom of Bisnaga by the Portuguese, was an empire based in South Indian in the Deccan Plateau region. It was established in 1336 by Harihara I and his brother Bukka Raya I of the Yadava lineage. The empire rose to prominence as a culmination of attempts...

. When Soonda was invaded and partially occupied by Hyder Ali
Hyder Ali
Hyder Ali was the de facto ruler of the Kingdom of Mysore in southern India. Born Hyder Naik, he distinguished himself militarily, eventually drawing the attention of Mysore's rulers...

 of Mysore, the heirless Raja ceded the remaining parts to Portugal and these were incorporated into Goa as the districts of Quepem, Sanguem and Canacona.

Canacona was incorporated into Goa in 1794. Like most of Goa, the culture of the district reflects an Indo-Portuguese fusion, yet Canacona experienced less Lusitanisation than the central Velhas Conquistas
Velhas Conquistas
The Velhas Conquistas or “Old Conquests” are a group of four concelhos or administrative districts in Goa which were incorporated into Portuguese India in the 16th century...

.

Transport

The Canacona railway station of the Konkan Railway
Konkan Railway
The Konkan Railway is a railway line which runs along the Konkan coast of India. It was constructed and is operated by the Konkan Railway Corporation...

s is located at the center of the district, close to the tourist attractions of the coast. The railway junction of Margao
Margao
Margao and commercial capital of the Indian state of Goa. It is the administrative headquarters of South Goa district and of the Salcete taluka.- Etymology :...

 to the north is the closest major rail station. Buses from Bombay may terminate at Panaji (Panjim), but some go on to Margao. The Canacona bus stand opened in 2004 is considered by many to be among the best designed bus-stands in India. Highway Route NH17 from Bombay to Goa connects Chaudi
Chaudi
Chaudi is a town in the South Goa District and is approximately two km from Kankon....

 to Margao
Margao
Margao and commercial capital of the Indian state of Goa. It is the administrative headquarters of South Goa district and of the Salcete taluka.- Etymology :...

 and Panaji. The scenic coastal road connects Navelim
Navelim
Navelim is a census town in South Goa district in the Indian state of Goa. It is located outside the city of Margao.-Geography:Navelim is located at...

, Chinchinim
Chinchinim
Chinchinim is a village and a census town in South Goa district in the state of Goa, India. It lies on the banks of river Sal. It has a predominant Catholic population and is dotted with typically Goan mansions and small cottages which are colorful and incorporate all the typical features of a...

, Assolna
Assolna
Assolna is a town to the south of Chinchinim.The river Sal flows through this town.-Geography:Assolna is located at . It has an average elevation of ....

, Betul
Betul
Betul is a city and a municipality in Betul district in the state of Madhya Pradesh, India. It is the administrative center of Betul District located in southern Madhya Pradesh. It forms the southernmost part of the Bhopal Division.-Etymology:...

, and Canaguinim.

Tourism

Tourism is rather human-scale, people-friendly and relatively more-affordable than other parts of Goa. Away from the coast, Canacona and its neighbouring district of Quepem have a number of off-the-beaten-track destinations and unusual festivals.

The tourism industry, which developed first in central Goa, did not develop in Canacona until the early 1990s. Much of the tourist infrastructure here is run through small-scale local initiatives.

In Goa, generally, locals have mixed feelings though about the impact of tourism
Tourism
Tourism is travel for recreational, leisure or business purposes. The World Tourism Organization defines tourists as people "traveling to and staying in places outside their usual environment for not more than one consecutive year for leisure, business and other purposes".Tourism has become a...

 on the region, with views increasingly pointing to the environmental degradation and social distortions due to the growth of this sector; however, the discussion remains largely academic, with few people directly involved in the field being influenced by the debates. Canacona was relatively left untouched by tourism until the early nineties as it was not easily accessible by public transport and the local economy wasn't enterprising enough to cater to tourists. Incidentally there was just one restaurant in the main street of canacona where one could expect the local meal during the day in the eighties.

Tourist attractions

Canacona's beach belt, 'discovered' by tourism only after the 1990s, is among the most scenic. Palolem
Palolem Beach
Palolem is a beach in South Goa, India.-Location:Palolem Beach is at , within 2 kilometres from the market town of Chaudi in the south Goan taluka of Canacona, which is about one hour's drive from the coastal town of Karwar in Karnataka and about 40 minutes from Margao .-The beach:The beach is...

 is a milder recreation of an east-meets-west Goan beach, with a rich variety of exotic food and accommodation to cater to the international palate. Polem is another beach situated at the south of Canacona which too is popular among tourists.

But beyond the better-known Palolem and Agonda, there are nearly a dozen-and-half lesser-known (or even hidden) beaches. Some are just tiny strips of sand. Vaturem and Xendrem are secluded beaches. Quepem's narrow sea front has a two or three beaches, known for their picture-postcard quality.

The most prominent Hindu institution of Canacona, and indeed of all Goa, is the Parthagali Math ("Portuguese Hindu Mutt
Mutt
A mutt is a mixed-breed dog.Mutt may also refer to: -Nickname or codename:* Mutt Carey , New Orleans jazz trumpeter...

") - a five centuries-old ashram and cult headquarters built in a mix of Portuguese and Hindu architectural styles. Besides, there are famous Hindu temples at Zambaulim and Fatorpa
Fatorpa
-External links:* *...

. Also the Mallikarjun Temple, Shristhal
Mallikarjuna Temple, Goa
The Shri Mallikarjuna temple dedicated to Lord Mallikarjun, an incarnation of Lord Shiva is situated in the Sristhal village which is 7 km northeast of Chaudi in Canacona taluk in the South Goa district of Goa, India...

 built by the Kshatriya
Kshatriya
*For the Bollywood film of the same name see Kshatriya Kshatriya or Kashtriya, meaning warrior, is one of the four varnas in Hinduism...

 samaj is very beautiful and known for its versatile festivals.

Canacona is one part of Goa where hillocks jut out almost directly into the sea. Villages are tucked away in low-lying areas, which are carpeted by a sea of green-topped coconut trees. Until foreign migration and tourism came to this area, the coconut tree was the means by which many eked a living, apart from fishing.

Some tourists are accommodated in beach huts, temporary beachside thatched huts built on coconut trees usually above ground level, right on the beach, during the fair weather (October-May) season.

Sanvordem and Quepem
Quepem
Quepem is a town and a municipal council in South Goa district in the Indian state of Goa.The town is the administrative capital for the Quepem district. Curchorem and Sanvordem are the a major towns located in the Quepem District.-Geography:...

 towns have many small, functional hotels. Attached to the temples of Mashem, Mallikarjun
Mallikarjuna Temple, Goa
The Shri Mallikarjuna temple dedicated to Lord Mallikarjun, an incarnation of Lord Shiva is situated in the Sristhal village which is 7 km northeast of Chaudi in Canacona taluk in the South Goa district of Goa, India...

 and Zambaulim, rooms are available in Agrashala
Agrashala
Agrashala is a pilgrimage resthouse specially meant for devotees in Goan temples. Goan temples are usually seen surrounded by Agrashalas...

s ("Dharmashalas" or pilgrim-hostels), primarily for pilgrims.

Wildlife

Dolphin-watching and fishing trips attract visitors, especially British and Scandinavian visitors. The beach villages of Palolem and Agonda and the more deserted fort at the Cabo de Rama
Cabo De Rama
The popular Goan beach fort Cabo De Rama Fort is named after Lord Rama. Also known as Cape Rama fort, this ancient fortress is located in the Canacona district of Goa, India just 25 km south of Margao. This is one of the oldest forts in Goa, build here before the arrival of the Portuguese. With...

 are developing as tourist destinations.

The Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
The Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Canacona taluka of Goa, in India . Founded in 1968, this is the southernmost sanctuary in Goa...

, Goa's second-largest wildlife sanctuary, is located within this district. Its terrain is fairly plain, with hills in the south and east. Much of the sanctuary is covered with dense forests, with a few open grasslands. Forest crown density is often over 50%. Some trees, Goa's loftiest, touch 30 metres.

Villagers have reported sighting tigers, according to officials.

Birds are aplenty; some two hundred species could be spotted, given time and patience. These include the Indian Pied Hornbill, Larger Golden Backed Woodpecker and the Great Indian Woodpecker.

The Forest Department's scenic but simple rest-house is on the highway at Poinguinim
Poinguinim
Poinguinim in Konkani is a town in the Canacona taluk administrative region of Goa, India, near the Goa-Karnataka border, and close to the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary.-See also:*Majali*Sadishivgarh*Karwar*Ankola...

, some 4 km away.

Culture

The Shantadurga
Shantadurga
Shantadurga also known as Shanteri/Santeri is the form of the Goddess Durga, commonly worshipped in Goa, India .She is also called Saibini in Konkani as a mark of reverence....

 temple at Fatorpa, resorted to by both Hindus and Christians, holds its Zatra
Zatra
Zatra is the Konkani language term for the pilgrimage festivals celebrated at Hindu temples in Goa; the Hindi and Marathi language equivalents are Yatra and Jatra....

 (i.e., Rath-Yatra or Pilgrimage-festival) on the ninth day of the Hindu month of Margashirish. It falls in Goa's cool season, sometime in December-January. Huge crowds from all over Goa make their way to this small remote village in the district of Quepem, some 5 km from Cuncolim.

During the Zatra, a tall, intricate, decorated, three-tiered wooden chariot (rath
Temple car
Temple cars are chariots used to carry representations of Hindu gods. The car is usually used on festival days, when many people pull the cart....

), into which the idol of the deity is placed, is and drawn by male devotees in a night procession.

Goa has a range of syncretic practices, where both Hindus and Christians worship at each other's shrines. Nearly every Goan Christian can trace ancestral roots to Hindu ancestors about five centuries ago.

The Hindu priests of the Shantadurga temple know many Goan Christian families by name, because they come to the festival yearly and donate money or goods.

American anthropologist Dr Robert S. Newman
Robert S. Newman
Robert S. Newman is an anthropologist based in Marblehead, Massachusetts, USA, primarily known for his contribution to studying post-1961 Goa, India.-Early life and education:...

 conducted detailed studies on this place and its phenomenon of syncretism.

The Shantadurga temple was originally in the village of Cuncolim, located in the consuelho of Salsette a few kilometers away, but was relocated across the then 'international boundary' into the Kingdom of Soonda
Soonda
Soonda is a village in Muhu Parish, Saare County in western Estonia....

 when the Goa government expelled the Hindus and ordered their shrines demolished.

Another festival celebrated at the Shantadurga temple is the Festival of Umbrellas, or Sontreos. This is observed on the fifth day of Phalgun (usually in March). Once again, both Hindus and Christians take part in a mix of practises that crosses over religious border-lines.

In nearby Quepem, the temple of the Hindu deity Damodar
Damodar (name of Krishna)
Damodar is the 367th name of Vishnu from the Vishnu sahasranama. The various meanings of the name are given as follows:...

, colloquially called Dam-bab, was relocated from Margao to the village of Zambaulim in what was then the Panchamahal district of the Kingdom of Soonda. Margao's businessmen have close ties with the deity and often conduct their business invoking it.

The Mallikarjun
Mallikarjuna Temple, Goa
The Shri Mallikarjuna temple dedicated to Lord Mallikarjun, an incarnation of Lord Shiva is situated in the Sristhal village which is 7 km northeast of Chaudi in Canacona taluk in the South Goa district of Goa, India...

 Temple is at Shristhal, some 2.5 km away from Chaudi on the main-road leading to Karwar and is one where devotees head for advice from oracles called the 'kaul'. The advice of the oracles is taken either from priests in a trance or by them interpreting the way flower petals drop down. Locally, Mallikarjun is a popular deity, as visible from the names of local educational institutions. This centuries-old temple was renovated in 1778.

Canacona's supposedly aboriginal population, the Kunbi
Kunbi
Kunbi is a generic term applied to castes of traditionally non-elite tillers in Western India. These include the Dhonoje, Ghatole, Hindre, Jadav, Jhare, Khaire, Lewa , Lonari and Tirole communities of Vidharbha. The communities are largely found in the state of Maharashtra but also exist in the...

s (with Gaonkar or Velip as their surnames) live in areas around Gaondongri, Cotigao, Chapoli
Chapoli
Chapoli is a village in Belgaum district in the southern state of Karnataka, India....

 (the site for a proposed new dam), Assali, Kulem, Khola and Agonda; the Velips are the priest class drawn from among the Kunbis.

The village of Loliem has a couple of centuries-old 'hero' stones, etchings on stone to record historic events of the time dating back many centuries. This village's statues of the Hindu deity Betal itself possibly goes back to the seventh century if not earlier, according to "cultural-historian" Phaldessai.

Canacona has several statues of Betal, and not four as it is usually said.

Also important is the Paik
Paik
Paik is a post-rock/space rock outfit originally from Toledo, United States, currently living in Detroit, Michigan, United States, that includes Rob Smith and Ryan Pritts. Bassist Ali Clegg left the band in 2005, and has since been replaced by San Francisco native Anthony Petrovic...

 cult, which is more prominent in the neighboring Uttara Kannada
Uttara Kannada
Uttara Kannada also known as North Canara or North Kanara, is a district in the southern Indian state of Karnataka. It is bordered by the state of Goa and Belgaum District to the north, Dharwad District and Haveri District to the east, Shimoga District and Udupi District to the south and the...

 or Karwar district of Karnataka.

Anjediva

Visits to island of Anjediva, located to the south-west of Canacona, are possible by permission of the Station Commander of the Indian Navy's Seabird Base, which occupies the island. Future visits could be curtailed due to plans by the Navy to step up security.

To visit the island from Goa one has to proceed by any bus going to or via Karwar, leaving in the morning; the journey is about 2½ hours. From the Karwar bus stand one must walk the short distance to the wharves of Karwar port, from where a ferry takes one to Anjediva. One might need to alight into a smaller boat before reaching the shore, due to the shallowness of the island's waters.
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