Stewart Fulton
Encyclopedia
Stewart Fulton was an accomplished mountaineer from Scotland
who climbed in the heyday of the "wild ones" in the sixties. This group was credited with putting up many new routes in the Alps
during that time, most significantly the first ascent of the south face of the Aiguille Du Fou (with John Harlin, Tom Frost
and Gary Hemming
) a smooth wall of sheer rock long deemed to be unclimbable.
In his book "The Climbers" Chris Bonnington described the route as "impressively steep" but unfortunately referred to Stewart Fulton as Steve Fulton.
John Harlin III, whose father was one of the preeminent American climbers of the sixties who died attempting a direct ascent of the Eiger, describes the ascent of the Auguilles Du Fou (lunatic's needle) in his book "The Eiger Obsession"
"..[Harlin] had first noticed the face two years earlier when he and Gary looked across the Mer de Glace and were stunned by 'one of the smoothest, most beautiful granite faces we had even seen. At that moment we both resolved to climb it."
"On still another attempt the rain came as they were ascending their fixed ropes in the crack, but they decided to push the route anyway. Stewart was leading a long, unprotected layback in the diagonal crack when he slipped, arching down hard on the one good piton he had managed to place. The rain and Stewart's bruised hand forced a retreat."
The climbers would go on to complete the route, along the way spending a night wet and exposed in an electrical storm on the south face of the mountain. Fulton would later reconnoiter the direttissima route of the Eiger
with John Harlin II, but was not on the climb when Harlin fell.
in the fifties and sixties, an upbringing that gave him the toughness necessary for climbing and a reputation as an formidable wrestler.
"One day on the main street in Leysin
, I caught sight of Stewart. He was headed for a local café. I came up from behind him and tapped him on the shoulder. He turned on me with incredible alacrity and violence. His fist literally whistled over my head as I instinctively ducked. Fortunately, he recognized me and reprimanded me for coming upon him like that as his reflexes had been sharpened in the streets of Glasgow and I could have been badly hurt". - Fellow climber Larry Ware
Fulton worked for a time at the Leysin American School
in Leysin, Switzerland as a dorm attendant and sports instructor. He also guided at the International School of Mountaineering, founded by John Harlin II. Along with climbing he enjoyed trail running, "I used to take off with Stewart, John and a great Scot runner called Jimmy Ferguson. We ran most of the surrounding hills. In the evening we would gather at the Vagabond Club where after a few well-earned beers we would proceed to start singing - Stewart played a mean banjo if I recall correctly and like to play a few Irish rebel songs" - Larry Ware
"He was a fantastic climber. Once, in Grenoble
, while visiting with Gary Hemming, he climbed on sight a 15 meter boulder problem - an overhanging and polished crack - which most of the climbers around there were proud to be able to even top rope. I have since climbed it many a time; I would never do it solo. He did and on sight. Amazing. And, apparently, he was in no way fazed by his accomplishment - he was a rare example of a totally natural climber. That does not mean that he took foolish risks. In the mountains, I have rarely been with a more cautious and responsible companion". - Larry Ware
Stewart Fulton died in an accident while working as an electrical lineman in northern Canada in 1971, he left behind a loving wife and young daughter.
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
who climbed in the heyday of the "wild ones" in the sixties. This group was credited with putting up many new routes in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
during that time, most significantly the first ascent of the south face of the Aiguille Du Fou (with John Harlin, Tom Frost
Tom Frost
Tom Frost is a rock climber from California, best known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley. He is also a photographer and climbing equipment manufacturer.-Rock climbing and mountaineering:...
and Gary Hemming
Gary Hemming
Gary Hemming was a noted American mountaineer. Together with Royal Robbins he made the first ascent of the American Direct route on the Aiguille du Dru in Chamonix in 1962, and was widely known in France for his role as a rescuer of a party on the same mountain in 1966.Hemming was also part of the...
) a smooth wall of sheer rock long deemed to be unclimbable.
Climb of the Aiguille Du Fou
The Aiguille Du Fou was first summited in 1901 but is best known for its south face, a 300 metre sheer rock wall which overlooks the town of Chamonix in the valley below. It was this face that was climbed by the team of Harlin, Frost, Hemming and Fulton in the summer of 1963.In his book "The Climbers" Chris Bonnington described the route as "impressively steep" but unfortunately referred to Stewart Fulton as Steve Fulton.
John Harlin III, whose father was one of the preeminent American climbers of the sixties who died attempting a direct ascent of the Eiger, describes the ascent of the Auguilles Du Fou (lunatic's needle) in his book "The Eiger Obsession"
"..[Harlin] had first noticed the face two years earlier when he and Gary looked across the Mer de Glace and were stunned by 'one of the smoothest, most beautiful granite faces we had even seen. At that moment we both resolved to climb it."
"On still another attempt the rain came as they were ascending their fixed ropes in the crack, but they decided to push the route anyway. Stewart was leading a long, unprotected layback in the diagonal crack when he slipped, arching down hard on the one good piton he had managed to place. The rain and Stewart's bruised hand forced a retreat."
The climbers would go on to complete the route, along the way spending a night wet and exposed in an electrical storm on the south face of the mountain. Fulton would later reconnoiter the direttissima route of the Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
with John Harlin II, but was not on the climb when Harlin fell.
Personal Story
Stewart Fulton grew up on the tough streets of GlasgowGlasgow
Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland and third most populous in the United Kingdom. The city is situated on the River Clyde in the country's west central lowlands...
in the fifties and sixties, an upbringing that gave him the toughness necessary for climbing and a reputation as an formidable wrestler.
"One day on the main street in Leysin
Leysin
Leysin is a municipality of the canton of Vaud in Switzerland, located in the district of Aigle.-History:Leysin is first mentioned around 1231-32 as Leissins. In 1352 it was mentioned as Leisins.-Geography:...
, I caught sight of Stewart. He was headed for a local café. I came up from behind him and tapped him on the shoulder. He turned on me with incredible alacrity and violence. His fist literally whistled over my head as I instinctively ducked. Fortunately, he recognized me and reprimanded me for coming upon him like that as his reflexes had been sharpened in the streets of Glasgow and I could have been badly hurt". - Fellow climber Larry Ware
Fulton worked for a time at the Leysin American School
Leysin American School
Leysin American School is a co-educational independent boarding school focusing on university preparation for grades 8-12 . It is located in the alpine resort village of Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland, 90 minutes east of Geneva...
in Leysin, Switzerland as a dorm attendant and sports instructor. He also guided at the International School of Mountaineering, founded by John Harlin II. Along with climbing he enjoyed trail running, "I used to take off with Stewart, John and a great Scot runner called Jimmy Ferguson. We ran most of the surrounding hills. In the evening we would gather at the Vagabond Club where after a few well-earned beers we would proceed to start singing - Stewart played a mean banjo if I recall correctly and like to play a few Irish rebel songs" - Larry Ware
"He was a fantastic climber. Once, in Grenoble
Grenoble
Grenoble is a city in southeastern France, at the foot of the French Alps where the river Drac joins the Isère. Located in the Rhône-Alpes region, Grenoble is the capital of the department of Isère...
, while visiting with Gary Hemming, he climbed on sight a 15 meter boulder problem - an overhanging and polished crack - which most of the climbers around there were proud to be able to even top rope. I have since climbed it many a time; I would never do it solo. He did and on sight. Amazing. And, apparently, he was in no way fazed by his accomplishment - he was a rare example of a totally natural climber. That does not mean that he took foolish risks. In the mountains, I have rarely been with a more cautious and responsible companion". - Larry Ware
Stewart Fulton died in an accident while working as an electrical lineman in northern Canada in 1971, he left behind a loving wife and young daughter.