Skelmorlie Castle
Encyclopedia
Skelmorlie Castle is a castle in North Ayrshire
North Ayrshire
North Ayrshire is one of 32 council areas in Scotland with a population of roughly 136,000 people. It is located in the south-west region of Scotland, and borders the areas of Inverclyde to the north, Renfrewshire to the north-east and East Ayrshire and South Ayrshire to the East and South...

, to the south of the village of Skelmorlie
Skelmorlie
Skelmorlie is a village in North Ayrshire, Scotland.Although it is the northernmost settlement in the council area of North Ayrshire it is contiguous with Wemyss Bay, which is in Inverclyde. The dividing line is the Kelly Burn, which flows into the Firth of Clyde just south of the Rothesay ferry...

, on the Firth of Clyde
Firth of Clyde
The Firth of Clyde forms a large area of coastal water, sheltered from the Atlantic Ocean by the Kintyre peninsula which encloses the outer firth in Argyll and Ayrshire, Scotland. The Kilbrannan Sound is a large arm of the Firth of Clyde, separating the Kintyre Peninsula from the Isle of Arran.At...

, Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...

. The castle was formerly the seat and stronghold of the Montgomery Clan
Clan Montgomery
-Origins of the Clan:Clan Montgomery originated in Wales, and emigrated to Scotland in the 12th century as vassals of the FitzAlans. The family derives its surname from lands in Wales, likely from the Honour of Montgomery which was located near the Shropshire lands of the FitzAlans...

.

History

The name is given as 'North Skelmoirluy' on Robert Gordon's map of 1636-52; 'Skelmurly' on John Adair's map of 1685; and 'Skelmorly' on William Roy's map of 1745-47. The origin of the name may be 'shelter leeside of the great rock' and 'Skel-' may be equivalent to 'Skeir' and 'Skerries.'

The Cunninghame family

During the reign of Robert III (1390–1406) the lands of Skelmorlie were held by the Cunninghames of Kilmaurs
Kilmaurs
Kilmaurs is a village in East Ayrshire, Scotland. It lies on the Carmel, 21.1 miles south by west of Glasgow. Population recorded in 2001 Census, 2601- History :...

; in about 1460 the northern portion passed into the hands of the Montgomeries as Skelmorlie-Montgomerie, the remainder continuing as Skelmorlie-Cunninghame. Anne, sister of Alexander de Montgomerie married a Cunninghame of Kilmaurs and this may explain the division of the lands.

The Lairds or Barons

On 6 June 1461 Sir Alexander de Montgomerie of Ardrossan
Ardrossan
Ardrossan is a town on the North Ayrshire coast in south-western Scotland. The name "Ardrossan" describes its physical position — 'ard' from the Gaelic àird meaning headland, 'ros' a promontory and the diminutive suffix '-an' - headland of the little promontory...

, the first Lord Montgomerie, granted the lands of Skelmorlie to his second son by Margaret Boyd (daughter of Sir Thomas Boyd of Kilmarnock), George, thereby was the founder of the cadet branch, the Montgomeries of Skelmorlie. George was also granted the lands of Lochliboside, Hartfield, and Colpy in the Barony of Renfrew. Another view is that Skelmorlie Castle was built by a brother of Hugh, the first Earl of Eglinton. This Hugh was the son of the second Lord Montgomerie and the grandson of the first Lord Montgomerie. John was the second laird and he married Marion Dalzel, by whom he had a son, Cuthbert, the third laird. Cuthbert married Elizabeth, daughter of Patrick Houston of that Ilk and their eldest son George became the fourth laird. George married Lady Catherine Montgomerie, youngest daughter of Hugh, first Earl of Eglinton. They had a large family and the eldest, Thomas, became the fifth laird. Thomas died in 1566 and his brother Robert inherited Skelmorlie, as well as Lochransay, Synnock, and Lochliboside.

Robert Montgomerie, seventh laird, was knighted by James VI and in 1628 created a baronet by Charles I
Charles I of England
Charles I was King of England, King of Scotland, and King of Ireland from 27 March 1625 until his execution in 1649. Charles engaged in a struggle for power with the Parliament of England, attempting to obtain royal revenue whilst Parliament sought to curb his Royal prerogative which Charles...

. He was the son of another Robert; his mother was Dorothy, daughter of Lord Sempill. This Sir Robert married Margaret, daughter of Sir William Douglas of Drumlanrig
Drumlanrig Castle
Drumlanrig Castle sits on the Queensberry Estate in Scotland's Dumfries and Galloway.The Castle is the Dumfriesshire family home to the Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch and Queensberry...

.

The sixth laird, Robert, murdered Alexander Cunninghame, commendator of Kilwinning Abbey
Kilwinning Abbey
Kilwinning Abbey is a ruined abbey located in the centre of the town of Kilwinning, North Ayrshire.-The establishment of the Abbey:The ancient name of the town is 'Segdoune' or 'Saigtown', probably derived from 'Sanctoun', meaning the 'town of the saint'. Saint Winnings festival was on 21 January...

 at his castle and palace of Montgreenan in 1586, following the murder, by the Cunninghames, of the fourth Earl of Eglinton. The elder Sir Robert and his eldest son where in revenge killed by Patrick Newall of Newark Glasgow
Newark Castle, Port Glasgow
Newark Castle is a well-preserved castle sited on the south shore of the estuary of the River Clyde in Port Glasgow, Inverclyde, Scotland, where the firth gradually narrows from the Firth of Clyde and navigation upriver is made difficult by shifting sandbanks...

.

The Baronets

Sir Robert, the seventh laird and first baronet, was one day discovered by Patrick Newall in Newark Castle; presumably also bent on revenge for his father and brother. Patrick is recorded as saying Come down Robin, out o' that corner, come down, man, to me, who did you so good a turn as to make you young laird and auld laird o' Skelmorlie in one day. Patrick and Sir Robert in fact became friends. Sir Robert married Margaret, daughter of Sir William Douglas of Drumlanrig. She was a famous beauty and the subject of ballads by Alexander Montgomerie
Alexander Montgomerie
Alexander Montgomerie , Scottish Jacobean courtier and poet, or makar, born in Ayrshire. He was one of the principal members of the Castalian Band, a circle of poets in the court of James VI in the 1580s which included the king himself. Montgomerie was for a time in favour as one of the king's...

 of Hessilhead
Hessilhead
Hessilhead is in Beith, North Ayrshire, Scotland. Hessilhead used to be called Hazlehead or Hasslehead. The lands were part of the Lordship of Giffen, and the Barony of Hessilhead, within the Baillerie of Cunninghame and the Parish of Beith...

.

The third baronet and ninth laird, Sir Robert, married Antonia, co-heiress of Sir James Scott of Rossie in Fife, by whom he had four sons and four daughters. This lady was an ardent covenanter and her husband was repeatedly fined for her attendance at conventicles. Robert died in 1685 and was succeeded by his son James. They had seven sons and four daughters.

Sir James, fourth baronet and tenth laird, was a member of the 1689 Parliament and Convention, like his father Robert. It is recorded that his mother wrote in 1684, severely chastising him for not providing for her and her four fatherless children. He was one of those chosen to administer the oath (the offer of the Crown) to King William and Queen Mary in London. He was dissatisfied with his reward of Lord Justice-Clerk and become a supporter of the deposed King James II
James II of England
James II & VII was King of England and King of Ireland as James II and King of Scotland as James VII, from 6 February 1685. He was the last Catholic monarch to reign over the Kingdoms of England, Scotland, and Ireland...

, joining him at St Germains in France; despite this support Sir James, a Protestant, was not fully welcome by the Catholic King James and despite a promise to create him Earl of Ayr, he died, of 'vexation', in September 1694 in London. He had married Lady Margaret Johnston, daughter of a co-conspirator, the Earl of Annandale They had two sons, Robert the elder and William.

The Lord Provost of Glasgow, Hugh Montgomerie of Busbie, purchased the estate from the fourth baronet; taking possession in 1731 and inheriting the title as 6th baronet and eleventh laird. In 1687 he married Lilias Gemmel, daughter of Peter Gemmel, merchant in Glasgow and Christian Boyd his wife. Hugh was one of the commissioners appointed to negogiate the union with England, serving as a member of Scotland's last parliament. He was appointed to the first parliament of the United Kingdom as the representative for Glasgow. Hugh died in 1735 without issue and being the last direct descendant, the title became extinct.

The Skelmorlie estate passed to the 4th baron's daughter, Lilias, who married Alexander Montgomerie of Coilsfield. Lilias's son Hugh became the 12th Earl of Eglinton and his brother held the property of Annick Lodge. Lilias had five sons and three daughters and died in 1783, a few weeks before her husband. She sold her lands in Renfrewshire and purchased lands contiguous with Skelmorlie.

Heraldry

Arms - Montgomerie of Skelmorlie are the combined arms of Montgomerie (quarterly, first and fourth on blue, with three fleur de lis in gold) and Eglinton (quarterly, second and third on red, three gold rings with each with a gem stone. A white sword, point downwards, in the middle of the quarters.) Crest - a heart with an eye over it. Motto - Tout bien ou rein (everything well (done) or nothing (attempted))

Skelmorlie Aisle

The ornate tomb in the Skelmorlie Aisle
Skelmorlie Aisle
The Skelmorlie Aisle of Largs Old Kirk is the remains of a church in the town of Largs, Ayrshire, Scotland.-History:The majority of the kirk was demolished in 1802 when the new parish church came into use, but the aisle, a division of the once larger building containing the mausoleum, was...

 at Largs
Largs
Largs is a town on the Firth of Clyde in North Ayrshire, Scotland, about from Glasgow. The original name means "the slopes" in Scottish Gaelic....

 was built by Sir Robert Montgomerie of Skelmorlie, as a resting place and memorial to his beautiful wife Margaret Douglas, killed in a riding accident; kicked by her horse, following a fall in public at the Colm Fair. Her presence was said to haunt Skelmorlie Castle, but reputedly the presence left after the fire of 1959. Sir Robert is also interred at the aisle in a lead coffin. A third coffin within the tomb is said to be that of Sir Hugh Montgomerie of Eaglesham
Eaglesham
Eaglesham , is a village and parish set in the west central Lowlands of Scotland - population 3,127 . Today it is chiefly a dormitory town for commuters to nearby Glasgow. The village is distinctive in being based around a large triangular green...

, a hero of the Battle of Otterburn
Battle of Otterburn
The Battle of Otterburn took place on the 5 August 1388, as part of the continuing border skirmishes between the Scottish and English.The best remaining record of the battle is from Jean Froissart's Chronicles in which he claims to have interviewed veterans from both sides of the battle...

.

Sir Robert is said to have carried out many acts of charity and mortification
Mortification of the flesh
Mortification of the flesh literally means "putting the flesh to death". The term is primarily used in religious and spiritual contexts. The institutional and traditional terminology of this practice in Catholicism is corporal mortification....

 of his person following a change of character following his wife's death. He spent many nights praying for his salvation in the vault. His lead coffin carries the inscription (translated from the Latin)- I was dead before myself; I anticipated my proper funeral; alone, of all mortals, following the example of Caesar. This Caesar was Charles V who had his obsequies carried out before his death. This unusual inscriptions may be explained by his habit of praying alone in the burial vault for excessively long periods of time, as if he was already 'dead' and occupying his tomb.

A story is told of a local warlock bringing the Devil along with him to do a mischief to Sir Robert, however the laird was deep in prayer as usual and the Devil was forced to give up on his evil intent.

A stylised view of Skelmorlie Castle is seen in one of the painted panels on the ceiling of the aisle.

The castle and grounds

The original Skelmorlie Castle may have stood on a motte which is situated in a defensive position on a promontory on ground lying between a small burn and the Skelmorlie Water at NS 213 660.

The oldest portion of the present day castle was built in 1502 and added to in 1636, when corbelling and parapets were removed, whilst angle turrets, later roofed, were added. Timothy Pont
Timothy Pont
Timothy Pont was a Scottish topographer, the first to produce a detailed map of Scotland. Pont's maps are among the earliest surviving to show a European country in minute detail, from an actual survey.-Life:...

 in his survey of Cunninghame
Cunninghame
Cunninghame is a former comital district of Scotland and also a district of the Strathclyde Region from 1975–1996.-Historic Cunninghame:The historic district of Cunninghame was bordered by the districts of Renfrew and Clydesdale to the north and east respectively, by the district of Kyle to the...

 around the year 1600 describes Skelmorlie Castle as "a fair well built house. It is certainly, in point of situation, a very pleasant and most delightful place, with its old-fashioned gardens, terrace and shrubbery. The view from it over the Firth of Clyde, to the opposite islands of Bute, Arran and Cumbraes, is not to be surpassed in picturesque scenery by any prospect in Britain". The baronial hall was on the first floor and as a more modern day dining room it had the Montgomerie coat of arms on the roof with the date 1762. The castle chapel, converted in the 19th century to stables and servants' quarters, still stands at the western side of the southern courtyard. Sir Robert's 17th range survives in part.

Skelmorlie tower is very similar in dimensions and internal arrangements to those towers at Little Cumbrae
Little Cumbrae Castle
Little Cumbrae castle sits on Allimturrail or Castle Island, a small tidal island, situated off the east coast of Little Cumbrae, in the Firth of Clyde.-History:...

, Fairlie
Fairlie
A Fairlie is a type of articulated steam locomotive that has the driving wheels on bogies. The locomotive may be double-ended or single ended...

, and Law
Law Castle
Law Castle is situated on the lower slopes of Law Hill in West Kilbride, only a short walk from the railway station. The castle is a simple rectangular structure with a sloped roof and several large chimneys protruding at each side....

.

The grounds in the early 19th century are described as "beautifully laid out, and covered with rich and luxuriant woods. The principal disadvantage of this fine old mansion, as a modern residence, is certainly the difficulty of ascent to it, from the steepness of the hill on which it stands; but otherwise an agreeable, nay, delightful summer retreat." In the 1855 OS survey a bowling green and a sundial, possibly a Scottish sundial, are shown. The old baronial mill still exists in the name 'Milnburn' close to the Skelmorlie Water and Skelmorlie Mains is marked.

The silhouette of the keep has remained largely unchanged for over five centuries. This red sandstone rubble construction was rough-cast harled in the early 1960s following a fire in 1959, which burnt out the upper floors of the keep and of the west wing. The wing was demolished and the keep restored; the architects were Noad and Wallace of Glasgow.

Historic Scotland listed the Castle (comprising the original Keep and attached Victorian addition) and the adjoining courtyard buildings as "Category B" in 1971.

Occupants since the 19th century

Major-General James Montgomerie, of Wrighthill, M.P. for Ayrshire lived at the castle for a long period in the early 19th century, being the brother of the 12th earl and grand-uncle to the 13th earl. During this time the castle remained as a little altered, but run down example of a tower castle.

The castle was tenanted for many years (1852–74) by the textile merchant, James N. Graham of Glasgow, a patron of arts with an outstanding art collection, who restored the old tower and greatly extended with the permission of the Earl of Eglinton. His architect was William Railton of Kilmarnock.

The 16th Earl of Eglinton
Earl of Eglinton
Earl of Eglinton is a title in the Peerage of Scotland.Some authorities spell the title: Earl of Eglintoun In 1859 the thirteenth Earl of Eglinton, Archibald Montgomerie, was also created Earl of Winton in the Peerage of the United Kingdom, which gave him an automatic seat in the House of Lords,...

 moved here from the abandoned Eglinton Castle
Eglinton Castle
Eglinton Castle was a large Gothic castellated mansion in Kilwinning, North Ayrshire, Scotland.-The castle :The ancient seat of the Earls of Eglinton, it is located just south of the town of Kilwinning...

 Montgomerie family seat in the mid 1920s, but it was sold by the 18th Earl of Eglinton, having been leased to the Wilson family since 1956. The 16th Earl died at Skelmorlie Castle in 1945. The castle became the property of the Wilson family in the mid 1970s, also the owners of the meat canning factory
Eglinton Country Park
Eglinton Country Park is located in the grounds of the old Eglinton Castle estate, Kilwinning, North Ayrshire, Scotland . Eglinton Park is situated in the parish of Kilwinning, part of the former district of Cunninghame, and covers an area of 400 hectares...

 at Eglinton Castle, Kilwinning.

The castle was advertised for sale in 2007 and passed to new private owners in the summer of 2009.

Archaeology

The RCAHMS record that a stone axe, about inches long, was found in a field at Skelmorlie (NS 19 67) and is now preserved in the Hunterian Museum, Glasgow. A 'Judge's Mound', a possible Moot hill
Moot hill
A moot hill or mons placiti is a hill or mound historically used as an assembly or meeting place. In early medieval Britain, such hills were used for "moots", meetings of local people to settle local business. Among other things, proclamations might be read; decisions might be taken; court cases...

existed at the top of the Shaw Glen.

The Serpent Mound

Near to the castle at Meigle is a 100 foot high artificial mound, said to have been the site of Sun and serpent worship. A Dr Phenè discovered this structure and excavations revealed a paved platform shaped like a segment of a circle, togther with many bones and charcoal. The mound itself may well be entirely natural, however the paved platform is a genuine artifact; it is not listed by the relevant authorities.

Micro-history

In 1666 the feu duties payable on the lands of Ormescheoch (Armsheugh) held by the Laird of Skelmorlie were £00 16s 08d.

External links

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