Reinhard Karl
Encyclopedia
Reinhard Karl was a German
mountaineer
, photographer and writer.
. At the age of 14, he started working as a mechanic apprentice. Later on, he joined night classes to complete the high school. When he was admitted to daily school, he left his work as mechanic to continue his studies in Frankfurt. He later became a professional mountain photographer and also wrote several books.
At the beginning of his career, climbing during week ends was his way to escape from his work as a mechanic, which he disliked.
He discovered his passion for mountains thanks to his readings; in his autobiography he specifically mentions Achttausend drüber und drunter by Hermann Buhl
and a book on Everest's ascent by Hillary. His mother encouraged him by sending him to the Mountain Club in Heidelberg, where he met Hermann Kühn, partner in several ascents, including Eiger's north-face.
, near Baden-Baden
.
He mastered several styles of climbing, ranging from alpine style in Europe and South America, free climbing and eight-thousanders.
and free climbing
.
He climbed several big walls. In 1975, he climbed Half Dome
north-west face and the Nose on El Captain, Salathé Wall
in 1977 and Son of Heart in 1978 on El Captain.
He also got in contact with American climbers spending their summers in Yosemite, such as Ron Kauk
and John Bachar
, masters of bouldering
.
In 1977, Karl and Helmut Kiene realised the first grade VII climbing with the free ascent of the Pumprisse on the Fleischbank, on the Kaisergebirge
.
(with oxygen) on May, 10 1978, with Oswald Olz. He was part, as photographer, of the same expedition which saw Reinhold Messner
and Peter Habeler
climb Mount Everest for the first time without supplemental oxygen.
Karl's second eight-thousander was Gasherbrum II
, in Karakorum, with Hans Schell in 1979.
failed when they spent the night at only 250 meters from the top.
Also his attempt to climb the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy with Luis Fraga did not succeed.
His last mountain was Fitz Roy, which he climbed in 1982 with Peter Luthy on the south-west face(route Chouinard) two weeks late the failed attempt to the Supercanaleta.
His books are the following:
, during his attempt to climb his third eight-thousander.
Germany
Germany , officially the Federal Republic of Germany , is a federal parliamentary republic in Europe. The country consists of 16 states while the capital and largest city is Berlin. Germany covers an area of 357,021 km2 and has a largely temperate seasonal climate...
mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
, photographer and writer.
Early life
Karl was born in HeidelbergHeidelberg
-Early history:Between 600,000 and 200,000 years ago, "Heidelberg Man" died at nearby Mauer. His jaw bone was discovered in 1907; with scientific dating, his remains were determined to be the earliest evidence of human life in Europe. In the 5th century BC, a Celtic fortress of refuge and place of...
. At the age of 14, he started working as a mechanic apprentice. Later on, he joined night classes to complete the high school. When he was admitted to daily school, he left his work as mechanic to continue his studies in Frankfurt. He later became a professional mountain photographer and also wrote several books.
At the beginning of his career, climbing during week ends was his way to escape from his work as a mechanic, which he disliked.
He discovered his passion for mountains thanks to his readings; in his autobiography he specifically mentions Achttausend drüber und drunter by Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
and a book on Everest's ascent by Hillary. His mother encouraged him by sending him to the Mountain Club in Heidelberg, where he met Hermann Kühn, partner in several ascents, including Eiger's north-face.
Climbing experience
Karl's career started with his first climbing experiences on BattertBattert
Battert is a mountain of Baden-Württemberg, Germanywith an elevation of 568m above sea level which is situated on the western rim of the Northern Black Forest near Baden-Baden. At the western flank lies the ruin of Schloss Hohenbaden, at the southern the climbing area and nature reserve...
, near Baden-Baden
Baden-Baden
Baden-Baden is a spa town in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. It is located on the western foothills of the Black Forest, on the banks of the Oos River, in the region of Karlsruhe...
.
He mastered several styles of climbing, ranging from alpine style in Europe and South America, free climbing and eight-thousanders.
Alps
He climbed several famous mountains and routes in the Alps, such as:- the Bonatti pillar on Aiguille du DruAiguille du DruThe Aiguille du Dru is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps, lying to the east of the village of Les Praz in the Chamonix valley.The mountain has two summits:...
- the Walker Spur on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1968)
- the EigerEigerThe Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
north-face, after several failed attempts (1969) - the north-face on Les DroitesLes DroitesLes Droites is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps and is the lowest of the 4000-metre peaks in the Alps. The mountain has two summits:* West summit , first ascent by W. A. B...
, in the Mont Blanc massifMont Blanc MassifThe Mont Blanc massif is a mountain range in the western Alps. It is named after Mont Blanc, at 4,810.45 m the highest summit of the Alps. It is located in France , Italy , and Switzerland... - the HemmingGary HemmingGary Hemming was a noted American mountaineer. Together with Royal Robbins he made the first ascent of the American Direct route on the Aiguille du Dru in Chamonix in 1962, and was widely known in France for his role as a rescuer of a party on the same mountain in 1966.Hemming was also part of the...
- RobbinsRoyal RobbinsRoyal Robbins is one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite...
on the west face of Aiguille du DruAiguille du DruThe Aiguille du Dru is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps, lying to the east of the village of Les Praz in the Chamonix valley.The mountain has two summits:... - the Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc
Yosemite
Karl visited several times Yosemite, where he experienced both Big wall climbingBig wall climbing
Big wall climbing is a type of rock climbing in which a long multi-pitch route, so sustained that an ascent normally requires more than a single day, is climbed. Big wall routes require the climbing team to live on the route often using portaledges and hauling equipment...
and free climbing
Free climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
.
He climbed several big walls. In 1975, he climbed Half Dome
Half Dome
Half Dome is a granite dome in Yosemite National Park, located in northeastern Mariposa County, California, at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley — possibly Yosemite's most familiar rock formation. The granite crest rises more than above the valley floor....
north-west face and the Nose on El Captain, Salathé Wall
Salathé Wall (El Capitan)
The Salathé Wall is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The Salathé Wall was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite...
in 1977 and Son of Heart in 1978 on El Captain.
He also got in contact with American climbers spending their summers in Yosemite, such as Ron Kauk
Ron Kauk
Ron Kauk is an American rock climber and Yosemite Camp 4 regular.Kauk began spending summers in Yosemite in 1974. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Washington Column with John Long and John Bachar, renaming the route Astroman...
and John Bachar
John Bachar
John Bachar was an American rock climber noted for his skill at free soloing. A fitness fanatic, he is the father of the climbing training device known as the Bachar ladder.- Biography :...
, masters of bouldering
Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
.
Free Climbing
After his experience at Yosemite, he applied his new vision of climbing in Battert crag.In 1977, Karl and Helmut Kiene realised the first grade VII climbing with the free ascent of the Pumprisse on the Fleischbank, on the Kaisergebirge
Kaisergebirge
The Kaisergebirge is a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps and Eastern Alps. It consists of two main mountain ridges – the Zahmer Kaiser to the north and the Wilder Kaiser to the south. The entire range is situated in the Austrian state of Tyrol between the town of Kufstein and the...
.
Eight-thousenders
Karl was the first German to reach the summit of Mount EverestMount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
(with oxygen) on May, 10 1978, with Oswald Olz. He was part, as photographer, of the same expedition which saw Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol "whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history." He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without...
and Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria.Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to climb on the Big Walls in Yosemite National Park.He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. ...
climb Mount Everest for the first time without supplemental oxygen.
Karl's second eight-thousander was Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China...
, in Karakorum, with Hans Schell in 1979.
South-America
In 1980 Karl's attempt, with Hans Martin Götz, to climb Cerro TorreCerro Torre
Cerro Torre is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of Cerro Chalten . The peak is the highest in a four mountain chain: the other peaks are Torre Egger , Punta Herron, and Cerro...
failed when they spent the night at only 250 meters from the top.
Also his attempt to climb the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy with Luis Fraga did not succeed.
His last mountain was Fitz Roy, which he climbed in 1982 with Peter Luthy on the south-west face(route Chouinard) two weeks late the failed attempt to the Supercanaleta.
Works
Karl has also had an important part in documenting mountain climbing in his pictures and books.His books are the following:
- Erlebnis Berg: Zeit zum Atmen (Adventure Mountain: Time to breathe)
- Yosemite – Klettern im senkrechten Paradies (Yosemite - climbing the vertical paradise))
- Berge auf Kodachrome (Mountains on Kodachrome)
Death
Karl died on May, 19 1982 in an ice avalanche at Camp II 6900 metres (22,637.8 ft) on Cho OyuCho Oyu
Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
, during his attempt to climb his third eight-thousander.