Perfumer
Encyclopedia
A perfumer is a term used for an expert on creating perfume
compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a Nose (French: le nez) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with fragrance compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other fragrances. As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists
, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products.
Until recently, professional schools open to the public for training perfumers did not exist. In 1970 ISIPCA
became the world's only school in perfumery. The candidates must endure a demanding entrance examination and must have taken university-level courses in organic chemistry.
Givaudan
, International Flavors and Fragrances
(IFF) and Symrise
have perfumery schools as part of their companies, but students must be employees of the company and must be recommended by their superiors for acceptance into the school.
Courses for perfumery are also offered by PerfumersWorld and the University of Plymouth
(UK) offers a BA (Bachelor of Arts) course in Business & Perfumery.
, Firmenich
, IFF
, Givaudan
, Takasago
, and Symrise
. Some perfumers work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own company, but these cases are not as common.
The perfumer typically begins a perfume project with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporation
s of various industries. Each brief will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what the perfume should smell like or what feelings it should evoke in those who smell it, along with a maximum per litre price of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume, will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in the perfume composition.
The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval. They proceed to work with the customer, often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director, which guides and edits the modifications on the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans several months to several years, going over many iterations and may involve cultural and public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoo
s, make-up, detergent
s, car
interiors, etc.) or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance.
Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or successfully wins a brief. This is more common in smaller or independent perfume houses.
Perfume
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and/or aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, animals, objects, and living spaces "a pleasant scent"...
compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a Nose (French: le nez) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with fragrance compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other fragrances. As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists
Flavorist
A flavorist, also known as flavor chemist, is someone who uses chemistry to engineer artificial and natural flavors. The tools and materials used by flavorists are almost the same as that used by perfumers with the exception that flavorists seek to mimic or modify both the olfactory and gustation...
, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products.
Training
Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as a perfume technician (in charge of blending formulas) or chemist. A direct entrance into the profession is rare and those who do typically enter it through family contacts. Such apprenticeships last around 3 years.Until recently, professional schools open to the public for training perfumers did not exist. In 1970 ISIPCA
ISIPCA
ISIPCA is a school for post-graduate studies in perfume, cosmetics products and food flavor formulation, with an apprenticeship period in the industry. It was originally founded in 1970 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain as ISIP...
became the world's only school in perfumery. The candidates must endure a demanding entrance examination and must have taken university-level courses in organic chemistry.
Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan is a Swiss manufacturer of flavorings and fragrances. As of 2008, it is the world's largest company in the industry.-Background:The company's scents and flavors are developed most often for food and beverage makers, but they are also used frequently in household goods, as well as grooming...
, International Flavors and Fragrances
International Flavors and Fragrances
International Flavors & Fragrances is a major producer of flavors and fragrances with sales of $2.6 billion in .Major competitors include Firmenich, Givaudan, and Symrise. IFF is a member of the S&P 500.-History:...
(IFF) and Symrise
Symrise
Symrise is a major producer of flavors and fragrances with sales of € 1,572 million in 2010. Major competitors include Firmenich, Givaudan, International Flavors and Fragrances and Takasago International.-History:...
have perfumery schools as part of their companies, but students must be employees of the company and must be recommended by their superiors for acceptance into the school.
Courses for perfumery are also offered by PerfumersWorld and the University of Plymouth
University of Plymouth
Plymouth University is the largest university in the South West of England, with over 30,000 students and is 9th largest in the United Kingdom by total number of students . It has almost 3,000 staff...
(UK) offers a BA (Bachelor of Arts) course in Business & Perfumery.
Employment
Most perfumers are employed by several large fragrance corporations in the world including ManeMane
- Biology :* mane of a horse, the line of hair along the spine of the neck* mane of a lion, found around the male mammal's neck- Places :* Mane Department, a department in the Sanmatenga Province of Burkina Faso* French communes:...
, Firmenich
Firmenich
Firmenich SA is a private Swiss company in the perfume and flavor business, it is the largest privately-owned company in the perfume and flavor business, and ranks number two worldwide., Firmenich has created many of the world’s favorite perfumes for over 100 years and produced a number of the most...
, IFF
International Flavors and Fragrances
International Flavors & Fragrances is a major producer of flavors and fragrances with sales of $2.6 billion in .Major competitors include Firmenich, Givaudan, and Symrise. IFF is a member of the S&P 500.-History:...
, Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan is a Swiss manufacturer of flavorings and fragrances. As of 2008, it is the world's largest company in the industry.-Background:The company's scents and flavors are developed most often for food and beverage makers, but they are also used frequently in household goods, as well as grooming...
, Takasago
Takasago International Corporation
is a major international producer of flavors and fragrances headquartered in Japan, with presence in 22 countries worldwide and net sales of $900 million in . Major competitors include Firmenich, International Flavors and Fragrances, Givaudan and Symrise.-History:...
, and Symrise
Symrise
Symrise is a major producer of flavors and fragrances with sales of € 1,572 million in 2010. Major competitors include Firmenich, Givaudan, International Flavors and Fragrances and Takasago International.-History:...
. Some perfumers work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own company, but these cases are not as common.
The perfumer typically begins a perfume project with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporation
Corporation
A corporation is created under the laws of a state as a separate legal entity that has privileges and liabilities that are distinct from those of its members. There are many different forms of corporations, most of which are used to conduct business. Early corporations were established by charter...
s of various industries. Each brief will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what the perfume should smell like or what feelings it should evoke in those who smell it, along with a maximum per litre price of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume, will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in the perfume composition.
The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval. They proceed to work with the customer, often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director, which guides and edits the modifications on the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans several months to several years, going over many iterations and may involve cultural and public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoo
Shampoo
Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair...
s, make-up, detergent
Detergent
A detergent is a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants with "cleaning properties in dilute solutions." In common usage, "detergent" refers to alkylbenzenesulfonates, a family of compounds that are similar to soap but are less affected by hard water...
s, car
Čar
Čar is a village in the municipality of Bujanovac, Serbia. According to the 2002 census, the town has a population of 296 people.-References:...
interiors, etc.) or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance.
Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or successfully wins a brief. This is more common in smaller or independent perfume houses.
List of notable perfumers
- Henri AlmérasHenri AlmérasHenri Alméras 1892-1965 was a French perfumer. He was best known for creating many perfumes for Patou, including Amour Amour and Joy.-List of creations for Jean Patou:...
- Ernest BeauxErnest BeauxErnest Beaux , was a Russian and French perfumer best known for creating Chanel No. 5, perhaps the world's most famous perfume.- Family background :...
- Calice BeckerCalice BeckerCalice Becker is a French master perfumer who worked for Roure Bertrand Dupont, Givaudan, Quest International. She is currently working for Givaudan in New York City.-List of creations:*Balmain Vent Vert - reformulation...
- Nicolas de BarryNicolas de BarryNicolas de Barry is a French perfumer.Born in 1948 , Nicolas de Barry studied both sociology and politics...
- Jean CarlesJean CarlesJean Carles was a French perfumer who worked in Roure in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School and served as its first director in 1946....
- Bernard Chant
- Germaine CellierGermaine CellierGermaine Cellier was a French master perfumer. She was known for creating bold, pioneering fragrances such as Fracas and Bandit. Cellier was also one of the first prominent female perfumers, at a time when the industry was dominated by men....
- François CotyFrançois CotyFrançois Coty was a French perfume manufacturer, newspaper publisher, and founder of the fascist league Solidarité Française...
- Roja DoveRoja DoveRoja Dove is a fragrance specialist, fragrance historian, and possibly the world's most famous nose, an affectionate name for a perfumer...
- Jean-Claude EllenaJean-Claude EllenaJean-Claude Ellena is a perfumer or "nose." He has the business and practice of perfumery in his blood. At an early age, he picked roses with his grandmother to sell to perfumers, and, in fact, his father, brother, and daughter are perfumers...
- André FraysseAndré FraysseAndré Fraysse was a French perfumer.He was noted for his work with Lanvin. His creations included:* Arpège with Paul Vacher* Eau de Lanvin* Prétexte * Rumeur , relaunched in a new formulation 2006* Scandal...
- Olivia GiacobettiOlivia Giacobettithumb|Olivia Giacobetti. Photo: Guillaume Luisetti.Olivia Giacobetti is a French perfumer, currently creative director at Parfum Lubin.-Biography:...
- Sophia GrojsmanSophia GrojsmanSophia Grojsman is a perfumer who has created some of the best known fragrances in the world for the past thirty years. Many of the perfumes created by her are based on the scent of rose...
- Jean-Baptiste GrenouilleJean-Baptiste GrenouilleJean-Baptiste Grenouille is the protagonist from Patrick Süskind's novel Perfume, published in 1985. Grenouille is born with an extreme form of hyperosmia , which eventually leads to him becoming a serial killer....
- Jacques GuerlainGuerlainGuerlain is a French perfume house, among the oldest in the world. It has a large and loyal customer following, and is held in high esteem in the perfume industry...
- Jean-Paul GuerlainGuerlainGuerlain is a French perfume house, among the oldest in the world. It has a large and loyal customer following, and is held in high esteem in the perfume industry...
- Jean KerléoJean KerléoJean Kerléo is a perfumer who worked in-house of Jean Patou and is the also the founder and director of the Osmothèque, a fragrance museum and conservatory in Versailles. Kerleo was born on February 24, 1932 in Brittany, France. At age 22, he began making perfumes for a New York company, Helena...
- Francis KurkdjianFrancis KurkdjianFrancis Kurkdjian is a French-Armenian contemporary perfumer , winner of the Prix François Coty in 2001.He opened his own boutique, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, in 2009 in Paris.-List of creations:...
- Norina Matchabelli
- Annick MénardoAnnick MénardoAnnick Ménardo is a contemporary perfumer who worked under the fragrance firm Firmenich since joining in 1991. Although she has a background in a wide base of sciences such as biochemistry and medicine, Annick Ménardo pursued perfumery as her subject of study and is a graduate of the French perfume...
- Jacques PolgeJacques PolgeJacques Polge is a French perfumer who works as the head of Parfums Chanel starting in 1978 to the present. He is the third director of the perfume division after Ernest Beaux and Henri Robert....
- Patricia de NicolaïPatricia de NicolaïPatricia de Nicolaï is a French perfumer who works as the head of her own perfume company Parfums de Nicolai. She is also a member of the technical committee of the French Society of Perfumers and the president of the Osmothèque perfume conservatory...
- Henri RobertHenri RobertHenri Robert is the second Chanel in-house perfumer after the departure of Ernest Beaux, famed creator of Chanel No. 5. Robert was born in 1899 in Grasse and began his career as a perfumer at with Chiris. Following that he joined Parfums d'Orsay and subsequently Coty...
- Maurice RoucelMaurice Roucelthumb|Maurice Roucel. Photo: Guillaume Luisetti.Maurice Roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies IFF, Quest, Dragoco and presently Symrise. Roucel began his career in perfumery on February 19, 1973 while working as the head chromatography chemist at Chanel for 6 years. He...
- Edmond RoudnitskaEdmond RoudnitskaEdmond Roudnitska was a French master perfumer and author. He is known for creating some of the most famous perfumes in the world, such as Dior's Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo, and Rochas's Femme. Many of his creations are still in production today. He was the father of perfumer Michel Roudnitska.In...
- Christopher SheldrakeChristopher SheldrakeChristopher Sheldrake is a perfumer.He has worked for Quest International, and has created perfumes for Shiseido, Serge Lutens, Rochas, Avon and SpaceNK. In 2005, he was made Director of Research & Development for fragrances at Chanel.-External links:...
- Daniel VauddDaniel VauddDaniel Vaudd is a perfumer residing in London, UK. A certified Cosmetic Scientist, Daniel trained under evaluative perfumer John Ayres, the Director of the UK Fragrance Foundation, who taught him clarity and structure of perfume and how to refine his abilities...
- Arcadi Boix CampsArcadi Boix CampsArcadi Boix Camps, born on March 31., 1962 in Manresa, Barcelona, Catalonia was raised in Los Angeles and Hawaii, graduated with the degrees in Chemistry and Philosophy. He is a perfumer and writer...
External links
- The British Society of Perfumers The British Society of Perfumers