Luggala
Encyclopedia
Luggala also called Fancy Mountain , is a 595 metres (1,952.1 ft) mountain in the Wicklow Mountains
, Ireland
. Its cliffs are situated above a lake, Lough Tay
, and are a popular location for rock climbing
.
Luggala is about 45 kilometres (28 mi) southwest of Dublin.
Estate), which is owned by wealthy arts patron Garech Browne
, a member of the Guinness family. The buildings on the estate, including the luxurious Luggala Lodge (aka "Luggala Castle"), are rented commercially year-round. The estate has been used as the location of some major films, including Zardoz
and Excalibur
.
In September 2007, it was incorrectly reported that Michael Jackson
had purchased the estate for €20 million, after an extended three-month stay there with his children in 2006.
on Luggala has been popular with rock climbers ever since the first routes were established by members of the Irish Mountaineering Club
in 1949. It is, however, not as popular as Glendalough
, despite being of comparable quality and size, and closer to Dublin. The current guidebook
, published in 2009, lists 188 routes; grades
go up to E5 and lengths up to 160 metres (524.9 ft), but 60 metres (196.9 ft) (two pitches
) at HVS/5a is fairly typical. The climbing is generally good quality, with excellent friction
, but the routes can often follow meandering lines and be hard to find. Protection
varies; in accordance with Irish climbing ethics, bolt
s are not used.
The crag can be approached through the main entrance of the Luggala Estate, skirting the lakeshore. However, many climbers, not wishing to intrude on the residents' privacy, prefer to approach from the high-level road at the back of the mountain, doing a short uphill hike
before descending a gully
to the base of the crag.
Wicklow Mountains
The Wicklow Mountains form the largest continuous upland area in Ireland. They occupy the whole centre of County Wicklow and stretch outside its borders into Counties Carlow, Wexford and Dublin. Where the mountains extend into County Dublin, they are known locally as the Dublin Mountains...
, Ireland
Ireland
Ireland is an island to the northwest of continental Europe. It is the third-largest island in Europe and the twentieth-largest island on Earth...
. Its cliffs are situated above a lake, Lough Tay
Lough Tay
Lough Tay is a small but scenic lake set in the Wicklow Mountains in County Wicklow, Ireland. It lies between the mountains of Djouce and Luggala, and is most easily viewed from above, from the R759 or the Wicklow Way as it descends past the J. B. Malone memorial...
, and are a popular location for rock climbing
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
.
Luggala is about 45 kilometres (28 mi) southwest of Dublin.
Luggala Estate
The mountain forms a part of the 25 km² (9.7 sq mi) Luggala Estate (also known as the GuinnessGuinness
Guinness is a popular Irish dry stout that originated in the brewery of Arthur Guinness at St. James's Gate, Dublin. Guinness is directly descended from the porter style that originated in London in the early 18th century and is one of the most successful beer brands worldwide, brewed in almost...
Estate), which is owned by wealthy arts patron Garech Browne
Garech Browne
The Hon. Garech Domnagh Browne, born 25 June, 1939, is a member of the titled family of Oranmore and Browne in the West of Ireland and is a wealthy patron of Irish arts, notably traditional Irish music...
, a member of the Guinness family. The buildings on the estate, including the luxurious Luggala Lodge (aka "Luggala Castle"), are rented commercially year-round. The estate has been used as the location of some major films, including Zardoz
Zardoz
Zardoz is a 1974 science fiction/fantasy film written, produced, and directed by John Boorman. It stars Sean Connery, Charlotte Rampling, and Sara Kestelman. Zardoz was Connery's second post-James Bond role...
and Excalibur
Excalibur (film)
Excalibur is a 1981 dramatic fantasy film directed, produced and co-written by John Boorman that retells the legend of King Arthur and the knights of the Round Table. Adapted from the 15th century Arthurian romance, Le Morte d'Arthur by Thomas Malory, Excalibur features the music of Richard Wagner...
.
In September 2007, it was incorrectly reported that Michael Jackson
Michael Jackson
Michael Joseph Jackson was an American recording artist, entertainer, and businessman. Referred to as the King of Pop, or by his initials MJ, Jackson is recognized as the most successful entertainer of all time by Guinness World Records...
had purchased the estate for €20 million, after an extended three-month stay there with his children in 2006.
Rock climbing
The granite cragCliff
In geography and geology, a cliff is a significant vertical, or near vertical, rock exposure. Cliffs are formed as erosion landforms due to the processes of erosion and weathering that produce them. Cliffs are common on coasts, in mountainous areas, escarpments and along rivers. Cliffs are usually...
on Luggala has been popular with rock climbers ever since the first routes were established by members of the Irish Mountaineering Club
Irish Mountaineering Club
The Irish Mountaineering Club is a mountaineering club based in County Wicklow, Ireland, although most of its members come from the Dublin Region. Its activities encompass all aspects of mountaineering, but its climbing activities are most prominent...
in 1949. It is, however, not as popular as Glendalough
Glendalough
Glendalough or Glendaloch is a glacial valley in County Wicklow, Ireland. It is renowned for its Early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a hermit priest, and partly destroyed in 1398 by English troops....
, despite being of comparable quality and size, and closer to Dublin. The current guidebook
Climbing guidebook
Climbing guidebooks are used by rock climbers to find the location of climbing routes at crags or on mountains. Guidebooks also offer condensed information about local restaurants, bars and camping areas; often include sections on geology and local climbing history; and may contain many pictures to...
, published in 2009, lists 188 routes; grades
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
go up to E5 and lengths up to 160 metres (524.9 ft), but 60 metres (196.9 ft) (two pitches
Pitch (vertical space)
-Climbing:In rock climbing and ice climbing, a pitch is a steep section of a route that requires a rope between two belays, as part of a climbing system...
) at HVS/5a is fairly typical. The climbing is generally good quality, with excellent friction
Friction
Friction is the force resisting the relative motion of solid surfaces, fluid layers, and/or material elements sliding against each other. There are several types of friction:...
, but the routes can often follow meandering lines and be hard to find. Protection
Protection (climbing)
To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection, a term used to describe the equipment used to prevent injury to themselves and others.-Types of climbing:...
varies; in accordance with Irish climbing ethics, bolt
Bolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin....
s are not used.
The crag can be approached through the main entrance of the Luggala Estate, skirting the lakeshore. However, many climbers, not wishing to intrude on the residents' privacy, prefer to approach from the high-level road at the back of the mountain, doing a short uphill hike
Hiking
Hiking is an outdoor activity which consists of walking in natural environments, often in mountainous or other scenic terrain. People often hike on hiking trails. It is such a popular activity that there are numerous hiking organizations worldwide. The health benefits of different types of hiking...
before descending a gully
Gully
A gully is a landform created by running water, eroding sharply into soil, typically on a hillside. Gullies resemble large ditches or small valleys, but are metres to tens of metres in depth and width...
to the base of the crag.