Separate Reality (climbing route)
Encyclopedia
Separate Reality is a 20 metre long climbing route
in Yosemite National Park
in California
, USA. The famous route is well known for its exposed crux
and six metre long crack in its roof through which the sky is visible. The route's access is about 200 metres above the Merced River
, but is better reached by abseiling
from above. The name is from the 1971 novel A Separate Reality
: Further Conversations with Don Juan from Carlos Castaneda
.
The route was first climbed by Ron Kauk
in 1978 and given a difficulty grade
of 5.12a (today 5.11d) (french 7a/7b).
The first to free solo-climb this route was German Wolfgang Güllich
in 1986, then photographed by Austrian Heinz Zak, who 19 years later soloed the route himself in 2005.
The route excites climbers not so much because of its technical difficulty, but due to its overhanging exposed nature, and the resultant demands on the human psyche.
In the summer of 2006 the American Dean Potter
was the third climber to send this route free solo.
Climbing route
A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, rock, or ice wall. Routes can vary dramatically in difficulty and, once committed to that ascent, can be difficult to stop or return. Choice of route can be critically important...
in Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park is a United States National Park spanning eastern portions of Tuolumne, Mariposa and Madera counties in east central California, United States. The park covers an area of and reaches across the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountain chain...
in California
California
California is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area...
, USA. The famous route is well known for its exposed crux
Crux
Crux is the smallest of the 88 modern constellations, but is one of the most distinctive. Its name is Latin for cross, and it is dominated by a cross-shaped asterism that is commonly known as the Southern Cross.-Visibility:...
and six metre long crack in its roof through which the sky is visible. The route's access is about 200 metres above the Merced River
Merced River
The Merced River , in the central part of the U.S. state of California, is a -long tributary of the San Joaquin River flowing from the Sierra Nevada into the Central Valley. It is most well known for its swift and steep course through the southern part of Yosemite National Park, and the...
, but is better reached by abseiling
Abseiling
Abseiling , rappelling in American English, is the controlled descent down a rock face using a rope; climbers use this technique when a cliff or slope is too steep and/or dangerous to descend without protection.- Slang terms :...
from above. The name is from the 1971 novel A Separate Reality
A Separate Reality
is an allegedly non-fictional book written by anthropologist/author Carlos Castaneda in 1971 concerning the events that took place during an apprenticeship he claimed to have served with a self-proclaimed Yaqui Indian Sorcerer, Don Juan Matus, between 1968 and 1971...
: Further Conversations with Don Juan from Carlos Castaneda
Carlos Castaneda
Carlos Castaneda was a Peruvian-born American anthropologist and author....
.
The route was first climbed by Ron Kauk
Ron Kauk
Ron Kauk is an American rock climber and Yosemite Camp 4 regular.Kauk began spending summers in Yosemite in 1974. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Washington Column with John Long and John Bachar, renaming the route Astroman...
in 1978 and given a difficulty grade
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
of 5.12a (today 5.11d) (french 7a/7b).
The first to free solo-climb this route was German Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich , was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.He first started climbing on the Sandstone-rocks of the 'Südpfalz'...
in 1986, then photographed by Austrian Heinz Zak, who 19 years later soloed the route himself in 2005.
The route excites climbers not so much because of its technical difficulty, but due to its overhanging exposed nature, and the resultant demands on the human psyche.
In the summer of 2006 the American Dean Potter
Dean Potter
Dean Potter is an American free climber, alpinist, BASE jumper, BASEliner, and highliner. He is noted for hard first ascents, free solo ascents, speed ascents, and enchainments in Yosemite and Patagonia....
was the third climber to send this route free solo.