Patrick Gabarrou
Encyclopedia
Patrick Gabarrou is a French
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...

 mountaineer
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...

 and mountain guide
Mountain guide
Mountain guides are specially trained and experienced mountaineers and professionals who are generally certified by an association. They are considered experts in mountaineering.-Skills:Their skills usually include climbing, skiing and hiking...

 who is credited with more than 250 first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...

s, most of them in the Mont Blanc massif
Mont Blanc Massif
The Mont Blanc massif is a mountain range in the western Alps. It is named after Mont Blanc, at 4,810.45 m the highest summit of the Alps. It is located in France , Italy , and Switzerland...

.

He has been the president of the international environmental NGO Mountain Wilderness
Mountain Wilderness
Mountain Wilderness is an international non-governmental organization dedicated to the preservation of mountain areas, in their natural and cultural aspects. The organization was founded in Europe and has a stronger presence in alpine and pyrenean regions...

 from 2006 to 2010. He is mostly an ice climber
Ice climbing
Ice climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. For the purposes of...

, and is considered to be a pioneer of the modern wave of ice climbing.

He also opened routes in several other regions like Canada, Bolivia and Patagonia.

Mountain routes

  • Supercouloir and Gabarrou-Albinoni on Mont Blanc du Tacul
    Mont Blanc du Tacul
    Mont Blanc du Tacul is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif of the French Alps situated midway between the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc....

  • Directissime (with Hervé Bouvard, 1986); Alexis (on Point Whymper, with Benoît Robert), 1993; A Leï (with Philippe Batoux and Benoît Robert), February 2003; Heidi (with Philippe Batoux and Christophe Dumarest), 17–21 March 2005 (all on the Grandes Jorasses
    Grandes Jorasses
    The Grandes Jorasses is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif.The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain was by Horace Walker with guides Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange on 30 June 1868...

    )
  • Boivin-Gabarrou on Les Droites
    Les Droites
    Les Droites is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps and is the lowest of the 4000-metre peaks in the Alps. The mountain has two summits:* West summit , first ascent by W. A. B...

  • Gabarrou-Silvy on the Aiguille Sans Nom
  • Divine Providence on the Grand Pilier d'Angle
    Grand Pilier d'Angle
    The Grand Pilier d'Angle is a buttress on the southern side of Mont Blanc in the Mont Blanc massif in the Val d'Aosta, Italy.The first ascent from the valley was by James Eccles with guides Michel Payot and Alphonse Payot on 30 July 1877 during an ascent of the Peuterey ridge, although the summit...

    , 1984
  • Hypercouloir on Mont Blanc, 1982
  • Aux amis disparus on the Matterhorn
    Matterhorn
    The Matterhorn , Monte Cervino or Mont Cervin , is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points...

     (with Lionel Daudet)
  • Directissime de la Margerita on Monte Rosa
    Monte Rosa
    The Monte Rosa Massif is a mountain massif located in the eastern part of the Pennine Alps. It is located between Switzerland and Italy...

     (with Christian Appertet), 1992

Ice climbs

  • Cascade Notre Dame, 700m, V, WI6 (with François Marsigny), 1984
  • Freneysie Pascale, 1984
  • Abominette, 700m, IV, 5.8, WI3 (with Christophe Profit and Sylviane Tavernier), 1984
  • Fantomastic, 700m, V, WI6 (with François Marsigny), 1985
  • Patagonic, 700 m, M6, V+, WI6, A1 (with Christophe Dumarest), 2003

Skiing

  • First descent of the north face of the Col de Peuterey with Jean-Marc Boivin
    Jean-Marc Boivin
    Jean-Marc Boivin was a French mountaineer, extreme skier, hang glider and paraglider pilot, speleologist, BASE jumper, award-winning film maker, and author...

    , 1977


He was French champion of ski-mountaineering in 1989

External links

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