Nina Ricci (designer)
Encyclopedia
Maria Nina Ricci was a French fashion designer of Italian origin.

Life and work

Maria Nielli was born in Turin, Italy in 1883, she moved to Florence, Italy with her family at age 5 and then to France in 1895 at age 12. She was nicknamed Nina. At the age of 13, she began an apprenticeship at a dressmaker
Dressmaker
A dressmaker is a person who makes custom clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Also called a mantua-maker or a modiste.-Notable dressmakers:*Cristobal Balenciaga*Charles Frederick Worth...

's. She continued to pursue her love of fashion throughout her teenage years. She married an Italian jeweler and composer Luigi Ricci
Luigi Ricci
Luigi Ricci , was an Italian composer, particularly of operas.He was the elder brother of Federico Ricci, with whom he collaborated on several works.- Life :...

 in 1904, thus becoming Maria Ricci. They had a child named Robert. In 1908 Nina joined the house of Raffin
Raffin
Raffin may refer to:* Librairie Raffin, a Canadian bookstore chain* Raffin, Sutherland, a community in Assynt, Sutherland, Highland, ScotlandPeople with the surname* Deborah Raffin , American actress...

as a designer and remained there for 20 years. She became Raffin's partner
Business partner
Business partner is a term used to denote a commercial entity with which another commercial entity has some form of alliance. This relationship may be a highly contractual, exclusive bond in which both entities commit not to ally with third parties...

, and then moved on to create her own design house in 1932.

The house of Nina Ricci
Nina Ricci (brand)
Nina Ricci is a fashion house founded by Maria "Nina" Ricci and her son Robert in Paris in 1932, and owned by the Spanish beauty and fashion group Puig since 1998. Nina Ricci designed gowns while Robert managed the business and finances. She worked with the fabrics directly on the mannequin to...

 was founded by Maria Ricci in Paris in 1932, later helped by her son Robert. Maria was 49 years old at the time, and after working at Raffin for so many years was itching to design her own creations. Madame Ricci designed gown
Gown
A gown is a loose outer garment from knee- to full-length worn by men and women in Europe from the early Middle Ages to the 17th century ; later, gown was applied to any woman's garment consisting of a bodice and attached skirt.A long, loosely-fitted gown called a Banyan was worn by men in the 18th...

s while Robert managed the business and finances. She worked with the fabrics directly on the mannequin
Mannequin
A mannequin is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, and others especially to display or fit clothing...

 to ensure they had the right shape once they were finished. Nina Ricci designs soon became known for their refined, romantic, always feminine feeling that Maria imparted to all of her collections.

The House of Nina Ricci grew rapidly throughout the thirties and their one-room maison de couture became 11 floors in 3 buildings, operations developed by WWII to include leather goods and fashion accessories.

In 1945, with the war over, designers were casting about for a way to revive the infatuation
Limerence
Limerence is a term coined c. 1977 by the psychologist Dorothy Tennov to describe an involuntary state of mind which seems to result from a romantic attraction to another person combined with an overwhelming, obsessive need to have one's feelings reciprocated...

 women had formerly had with haute couture
Haute couture
Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses,...

, while raising money for war relief. Robert Ricci had an idea which Lucien Lelong
Lucien Lelong
Lucien Lelong was a French couturier who was prominent from the 1920s to the 1940s.-Career:Born in Paris as the son of Arthur Lelong, the owner of a textile shop, he trained at the Hautes Etudes de Commerciales in Paris and opened his fashion house in the late 1910s...

, President of the Chambre de Commerce, put into action. Over 150 mannequins from forty Paris couturier
Couturier
A couturier is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients. A couturier may make what is known as haute couture. Such a person usually hires patternmakers and machinists for garment production, and is either employed...

s
, including Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga is a fashion house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Basque designer, born in the Basque Country, Spain. He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as "the master of us all" by Christian Dior. His bubble skirts and odd, feminine, yet ultra-modern...

 and Madame Gres, were dressed in the label
Label
A label is a piece of paper, polymer, cloth, metal, or other material affixed to a container or article, on which is printed a legend, information concerning the product, addresses, etc. A label may also be printed directly on the container or article....

s' best fashions and were placed in an exhibition held at the Louvre
Louvre
The Musée du Louvre – in English, the Louvre Museum or simply the Louvre – is one of the world's largest museums, the most visited art museum in the world and a historic monument. A central landmark of Paris, it is located on the Right Bank of the Seine in the 1st arrondissement...

, in Paris. After a huge success in Paris it toured Europe and then the USA.

In 1948 The house of Nina Ricci launched 'L'Air Du Temps'. The "bottle with the doves" was co-designed by Marc Lalique and Robert Ricci. The Lalique family manufactured bottles exclusively for the House of Ricci until the 1950s.

By the early 1950s Nina Ricci was nearing 70 years of age and slowly withdrew from an active role in design, choosing to just keep an eye on the house. Her son chose the new head designer in 1954, the Belgian Jules-Francois Crahay.

Nina Ricci died on 30 November 1970 (according to her Headstone she died 29 November) at the age of 87.

Robert Ricci died in 1988 and the company was taken over by Nina Ricci's son-in-law, Gilles Fuchs.

External links

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