Klemheist knot
Encyclopedia
The Klemheist knot is a type of friction hitch
, used as part of a system to ascend or descend a climbing
rope. As with other friction knots, it grips the rope when weight is applied and is free to move when the weight is released. It is similar in function to the Prusik knot and the Bachmann knot
but has the advantage over the Prusik that a loop of webbing
can be used as an alternative to cord. The Klemheist tends to be easier to slide up than a Prusik, which does not work well with webbing. The Klemheist can also be used to attach a snubber to the anchor rode of a yacht or similar small craft: here the advantage is that it is easy to undo.
Sometimes the knot name is misspelled Kleimheist, with an extra i. Klem means clamp in Dutch.
A Prusik loop is wrapped round the climbing rope two or three times. The loop is then threaded through itself and carefully tightened to wrap the climbing rope neatly. In use strain must only be taken on the hanging loop. Never grip and pull on the knot itself—a rapid descent can occur! If the knot slips when load is placed on the hanging loop, wrap the loop around the climbing rope another time or two as necessary until there is no slippage.
Friction hitch
A friction hitch is a kind of knot used to attach one rope to another in a way that is easily adjusted. These knots are commonly used in Single Rope Technique while climbing to ascend a hanging rope by alternately hanging on one friction hitch and sliding the other up...
, used as part of a system to ascend or descend a climbing
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
rope. As with other friction knots, it grips the rope when weight is applied and is free to move when the weight is released. It is similar in function to the Prusik knot and the Bachmann knot
Bachmann knot
The Bachmann is a friction hitch. It is useful when the friction hitch needs to be reset quickly/often or made to be self-tending as in crevasse and self-rescue....
but has the advantage over the Prusik that a loop of webbing
Webbing
Webbing is a strong fabric woven as a flat strip or tube of varying width and fibres often used in place of rope. The name webbing comes from the meshed material frequently used in its construction, which resembles a web...
can be used as an alternative to cord. The Klemheist tends to be easier to slide up than a Prusik, which does not work well with webbing. The Klemheist can also be used to attach a snubber to the anchor rode of a yacht or similar small craft: here the advantage is that it is easy to undo.
Sometimes the knot name is misspelled Kleimheist, with an extra i. Klem means clamp in Dutch.
Technique