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A friction hitch
is a kind of knot
A knot is a method of fastening or securing linear material such as rope by tying or interweaving. It may consist of a length of one or several segments of rope, string, webbing, twine, strap, or even chain interwoven such that the line can bind to itself or to some other object—the "load"...
used to attach one rope
A rope is a length of fibres, twisted or braided together to improve strength for pulling and connecting. It has tensile strength but is too flexible to provide compressive strength...
to another in a way that is easily adjusted. These knots are commonly used in Single Rope Technique
Single Rope Technique is a set of methods used to descend and ascend on the same single rope. SRT is used in caving, potholing, rock climbing, canyoning, roped access for building maintenance and by arborists for tree climbing.-Historical Developments:...
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
to ascend a hanging rope by alternately hanging on one friction hitch and sliding the other up. Friction hitches are also commonly used as ratchets to capture progress on a moving rope, to ensure that it can move one way (commonly up) but not the other. These hitches are a simple and cheap alternative to mechanical ascenders.
List of friction hitches
Warning: Though useful in other contexts, not all of the friction hitches listed below are suitable for rock climbing.
- Adjustable grip hitch
The adjustable grip hitch is a simple and useful friction hitch which may easily be shifted up and down the rope while slack. It will hold fast when loaded, but slip when shock loaded until tension is relieved enough for it to again hold fast....
- Bachmann knot
The Bachmann is a friction hitch. It is useful when the friction hitch needs to be reset quickly/often or made to be self-tending as in crevasse and self-rescue....
- Blake's hitch
The Blake's Hitch is a friction hitch commonly used by arborists and tree climbers as an ascending knot. Unlike other common climbing hitches, which often use a loop of cord, the Blake's hitch is formed using the end of a rope. Although it is a stable knot, it is often backed up with a stopper...
- Distel hitch
- Farrimond friction hitch
The Farrimond friction hitch is a quick release adjustable friction hitch for use on lines under tension. It is useful when the length of a line will need to be periodically adjusted in order to maintain or adjust tension whilst remaining quick and easy to untie; such as when hanging the ridge line...
- French prusik sometimes called the autoblock knot
- Machard Tresse
- Valdotain Tresse
- Icicle hitch
An icicle hitch is a knot that is excellent for connecting to a post when weight is applied to an end running parallel to the post in a specific direction. This type of hitch will hold its place even when holding a substantial load on a smooth surface...
- Klemheist knot
The Klemheist knot is a type of friction hitch, used as part of a system to ascend or descend a climbing rope. As with other friction knots, it grips the rope when weight is applied and is free to move when the weight is released...
- Knut hitch
- Martin hitch
- Prusik or Prussik
- Rolling hitch
The rolling hitch is a knot used to attach a rope to a rod, pole, or other rope. A simple friction hitch, it is used for lengthwise pull along an object rather than at right angles...
(or Taut-line hitch
The taut-line hitch is an adjustable loop knot for use on lines under tension. It is useful when the length of a line will need to be periodically adjusted in order to maintain tension. It is made by tying a rolling hitch around the standing part after passing around an anchor object...
- Sailor's hitch
The sailor's hitch is a type of knot. It is a secure, jam-proof hitch....
- Schwabisch hitch
- TK hitch