Jan Dlugosz (mountaineer)
Encyclopedia
Jan Długosz was a Polish mountaineer
and writer
. He lived in Kraków
(South Poland). In 1961 he participated in the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney
on Mont Blanc
by British-Polish team (with Don Whillans
, Chris Bonington
and Ian Clough
).
) routes in 1955 (so called Wariant R on the Mnich, with Andrzej Pietsch, and the left side of Kazalnica, with Czesław Momatiuk). He made the first winter ascents (also demanding innovative tactics and techniques) of the hugest walls in Polish Tatras (1956, 1957).
He successfully climbed in the Alps
(in 1957, the eighth overall ascent of the west face of Aiguille du Dru
, with Momatiuk and Stanisław Biel), in 1960 Grand Capucin
and 1961, attempt to Eiger
and a then new route of Frêney Pillar) and in Caucasus
(1958 Ullu-Tau, 1959 Dykh-Tau
and Shkhara
).
He tried to publish (from about 1960) his best stories as one book, but it happened eventually until almost 2 years after his death. The book Komin Pokutników (eng. The Chimney of Penitents), including 13 mountaineering stories, appeared in 1964 and is still considered one of the best books about climbing written in Polish (at least 5 next editions till 2008). Two next books (one with his early stories and next with articles, scenario of realized the documentary film, songs and poems for cabaret) were published in 1994 and 1995.
Jan Długosz died on July 12, 1962 in fatal accident, falling from the ridge of Zadni Kościelec
in High Tatras (during climb in relatively easy terrain, when he worked as supervisor who controlled the training of climbing of special forces – there was the fog, and within a few hours, no one noticed that it happened).
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
and writer
Writer
A writer is a person who produces literature, such as novels, short stories, plays, screenplays, poetry, or other literary art. Skilled writers are able to use language to portray ideas and images....
. He lived in Kraków
Kraków
Kraków also Krakow, or Cracow , is the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. Situated on the Vistula River in the Lesser Poland region, the city dates back to the 7th century. Kraków has traditionally been one of the leading centres of Polish academic, cultural, and artistic life...
(South Poland). In 1961 he participated in the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney
Freney
Freney is a commune in the Savoie department in the Rhône-Alpes region in south-eastern France....
on Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco , meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps, Western Europe and the European Union. It rises above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence...
by British-Polish team (with Don Whillans
Don Whillans
Don Whillans was an English rock climber and mountaineer. Born and raised in a two-up two-down house in Salford, Lancashire, he climbed with both Joe Brown and Chris Bonington on many new routes, and was considered the technical equal of both. He was an apprentice plumber when he first started his...
, Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna.-Early life and expeditions:Educated at University College School in...
and Ian Clough
Ian Clough (mountaineer)
Ian Clough was a British mountaineer who was killed on an expedition to climb the south face of the Himalayan massif Annapurna.-Climbing career:...
).
Career
Długosz became the leading Polish climber in the mid-1950s due to his significant climbs in Tatras, including the two hardest one (at the date, and needing new aid equipmentAid climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress....
) routes in 1955 (so called Wariant R on the Mnich, with Andrzej Pietsch, and the left side of Kazalnica, with Czesław Momatiuk). He made the first winter ascents (also demanding innovative tactics and techniques) of the hugest walls in Polish Tatras (1956, 1957).
He successfully climbed in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
(in 1957, the eighth overall ascent of the west face of Aiguille du Dru
Aiguille du Dru
The Aiguille du Dru is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps, lying to the east of the village of Les Praz in the Chamonix valley.The mountain has two summits:...
, with Momatiuk and Stanisław Biel), in 1960 Grand Capucin
Grand Capucin
The Grand Capucin is a rock pinnacle in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France....
and 1961, attempt to Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
and a then new route of Frêney Pillar) and in Caucasus
Caucasus
The Caucasus, also Caucas or Caucasia , is a geopolitical region at the border of Europe and Asia, and situated between the Black and the Caspian sea...
(1958 Ullu-Tau, 1959 Dykh-Tau
Dykh-Tau
Dykh-Tau or Dykhtau , is a mountain located in Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia; its peak stands about north of the border with Georgia.The mountain is the second highest of the Caucasus Mountains, after Mount Elbrus.-Access:...
and Shkhara
Shkhara
Shkhara , is the highest point in the nation of Georgia. Located in the Svaneti region along the Russian frontier, Shkhara lies north of the city of Kutaisi, Georgia's second largest city. The summit lies in the central part of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range, to the south-east of Mount...
).
Writings
He was an author of a more than 60 articles and stories about mountaineering published in professional magazines and in popular media.He tried to publish (from about 1960) his best stories as one book, but it happened eventually until almost 2 years after his death. The book Komin Pokutników (eng. The Chimney of Penitents), including 13 mountaineering stories, appeared in 1964 and is still considered one of the best books about climbing written in Polish (at least 5 next editions till 2008). Two next books (one with his early stories and next with articles, scenario of realized the documentary film, songs and poems for cabaret) were published in 1994 and 1995.
Jan Długosz died on July 12, 1962 in fatal accident, falling from the ridge of Zadni Kościelec
Kościelec (mountain)
Kościelec is a peak in the High Tatras in the Valley Gąsienicowa of Poland....
in High Tatras (during climb in relatively easy terrain, when he worked as supervisor who controlled the training of climbing of special forces – there was the fog, and within a few hours, no one noticed that it happened).
Sources
- 1967 – "Taternik" (magazine) No 3, 1967, issue In memoriam Jan Długosz (pp. 111–130) , with the list of his ascents and publications
- Zofia Radwańska-Paryska, Witold Henryk Paryski, Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzańska (WET, engl. "The Great Encyclopedia of Tatras"), Wydawnictwo Górskie, Poronin (Poland) 1995, reprint edition 2004; ISBN 83-7104-009-1, entry Jan Długosz (p. 216)
(also exists as electronic version: a) on the CD ROM published by Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, Warszawa 1999; ISBN 83-01-12853-4, b) available in internet, see External links) - Ivan Dieška a kolektív, Horolezectvo – encyklopédia, „Šport”, Bratislava 1986 ; ISBN 80-7096-015-9, entry Jan Długosz (p. 79)
External links
- internet version of Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzańska, entry Jan Długosz, , after Zofia i Witold H. Paryscy, Wielka Encyklopedia Tatrzańska (Retrieved 28 March 2010)