Itamae
Encyclopedia
An itamae is a cook
Cook (profession)
A cook is a person who prepares food for consumption. In Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Canada this profession requires government approval ....

 in a Japanese kitchen
Japanese kitchen
Daidokoro is the place where food is prepared in a Japanese house. Until the Meiji era, a kitchen was also called kamado and there are many sayings in the Japanese language that involve kamado as it was considered the symbol of a house. The term could even be used to mean "family" or "household"...

, or a chef
Chef
A chef is a person who cooks professionally for other people. Although over time the term has come to describe any person who cooks for a living, traditionally it refers to a highly skilled professional who is proficient in all aspects of food preparation.-Etymology:The word "chef" is borrowed ...

 in larger restaurant
Restaurant
A restaurant is an establishment which prepares and serves food and drink to customers in return for money. Meals are generally served and eaten on premises, but many restaurants also offer take-out and food delivery services...

s. The term can be translated literally as "in front of the board", referring to a cutting board
Cutting board
A cutting board is a durable board on which to place material for cutting. Common is the kitchen cutting board used in preparing food; other types exist for cutting raw materials such as leather or plastic....

.

While it is not necessary to be Japanese in order to be considered an itamae, non Japanese must prove themselves worthy of such a title. Itamae traditionally wear a uniform of a white hat, white coat and apron, and frequently wear their knife in a sheathe off the waist.

Dave Lowry, in his book "The Connoisseur' s Guide to Sushi: Everything You Need to Know About Sushi" describes four criteria to judge a good itamae:
  • How he handles the food;
  • How he handles his food utensils (basically his knives);
  • How he treats his clients and
  • How he behaves, moves and works.


In the western world the itamae is often thought of with sushi
Sushi
is a Japanese food consisting of cooked vinegared rice combined with other ingredients . Neta and forms of sushi presentation vary, but the ingredient which all sushi have in common is shari...

 (although they are commonly referred to simply as 'sushi chefs'). In Japan
Japan
Japan is an island nation in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south...

 becoming an itamae of sushi requires years of on-the-job training and apprenticeship. Typically, after five years or so spent working with a master or teacher itamae, the apprentice is given his first important task related to making sushi: preparation of the sushi rice. The rice is prepared according to the strict instructions of the senior itamae, and each sushi restaurant has its own "secret" recipe of rice, salt and rice vinegar. Once the senior itamae is satisfied with the consistency of the sushi rice made daily by the apprentice, the apprentice may then be promoted.

This promotion puts the apprentice in a more prominent location, next to the senior itamae. This position is called "wakiita", that means "near the cutting board". The wakiitas duties expand to include daily preparation of the fresh ingredients, such as preparing blocks of fish, grating ginger
Ginger
Ginger is the rhizome of the plant Zingiber officinale, consumed as a delicacy, medicine, or spice. It lends its name to its genus and family . Other notable members of this plant family are turmeric, cardamom, and galangal....

, and slicing scallion
Scallion
Scallions , are the edible plants of various Allium species, all of which are "onion-like", having hollow green leaves and lacking a fully developed root bulb.-Etymology:The words...

s. Eventually the apprentice might begin to prepare sushi for clients with take away
Take Away
Take Away is a 2003 Australian comedy movie, written by Dave O'Neil, who also features as a minor character, and Mark O'Toole. It stars Vince Colosimo, Stephen Curry, Rose Byrne and Nathan Phillips...

 orders. The
wakiita also learns the proper ways to interact with and treat the restaurant's customers by observing the senior itamae.

After additional years of training as a
wakiita, the apprentice can be appointed an itamae, fully authorized to stand in front of the cutting board.

The creation of sushi is an art, and has colorful stories associated with it. It is a common Japanese legend that the truly great
itamae-san ("san" is an honorific suffix) should be able to create nigirizushi in which all of the rice grains face the same direction.

In Japan, the
itamae is still the heart of the traditional sushi bar, and they follow many traditions not practiced elsewhere in the world. For example, part of the itamaes art is calculating the bill; mistakes in calculation, unintentional or intentional (for particularly good customers), may occur.
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