Eigerjoch
Encyclopedia
The Eigerjoch is a high Alpine pass
lying between the Mönch
(south) and the Eiger
(north). The lowest point (3,614 m) on the ridge is named Nördliches Eigerjoch while another pass (3,747 m) located closer to the Mönch is named Südliches Eigerjoch.
The Eiger does not lie in the ridge of the Bernese Alps
which divides the basins of the Rhone
and the Aar, but forms a promontory extending north-east from the Mönch, and is connected with it by a long and high arête
, in which jagged teeth of rock project through a coating of ice. At the southern end, where this arete abuts against the shoulder of the Mönch, it overlooks the gently-sloping plateau which forms the summit of the Mönchsjoch, and the descent on the side of the Aletsch Glacier
presents no serious difficulty.
W. and G. S. Mathews, with Ulrich Lauener of Lauterbrunnen, and J. B. Croz and M. Charlet of Chamonix.
In August 1859, the three enterprising mountaineers above named, failing to perceive any route by which the Jungfraujoch
could be attacked with a fair prospect of success, resolved to attempt to pass from the Wengern Alp by the north and east sides of the peak of the Mönch. Starting at 4 a.m. they soon reached the Eiger Glacier
, and ascended for some distance along the side nearest to the Eiger
. On reaching the very much crevassed middle region of the glacier, some time was lost in the endeavour to force a direct way. The correct course was to cross to the southern bank below the rocks of the Mönch. After a short ascent the form of the crevasses made it expedient to cross back to the opposite side, nearly to the edge of the glacier, here held up by the great rocky buttress of the Eiger, so remarkable from the Wengern Alp. Further progress seemed to be barred by the menacing condition of the seracs; but the difficulties could be avoided by crossing the glacier diagonally a third time to a sort of snow valley, where the crevasses were apparently filled up by avalanches from the Mönch. By this circuitous but not very difficult route the party reached the uppermost plateau of the glacier, lying immediately below the ridge connecting the two peaks. On the side nearest the Monch the ridge was accessible only by extremely long and steep slopes of hard snow. At the end approaching the Eiger the ridge is far easier of access, and this therefore was the first object of attack. On gaining the summit the travellers found themselves at the top of a tremendous precipice overlooking one arm of the Lower Grindelwald Glacier
, while the arête to the right connecting them with the Mönch was broken through by so many jagged teeth of rock, and at the same time so narrow and difficult, that many hours would probably have been consumed in passing along it. It was therefore thought expedient to return, and to attempt the ascent by the ice-slope, as it should be called since the névé is so hard and slippery as to make stepcutting very laborious. Ulrich Lauener on that occasion displayed extraordinary strength and endurance, having in 5 hours of uninterrupted work cut 580 steps on an ice slope of from 50 to 52° inclination. That effort sufficed only to enable the party to gain a patch of rock some way below the summit of the ridge, and more than an hour more was expended in reaching the desired goal. Turning to the right along the arête, they finally reached at 6 p.m. the point on the shoulder of the Mönch which forms the summit level of this pass, which was probably the Südliches Eigerjoch.
In descending to the Aletsch Glacier the discoverers of this pass were benighted before they could reach the comparative shelter of the Kaulberg cave, and were forced to pass the night on some exposed rocks at the southern base of the Trugberg
, where their position in case of bad weather would have been very critical. The Eggishorn
was reached on the following morning about 9 a.m. in about 29 hours trom the Wengern Alp.
Mountain pass
A mountain pass is a route through a mountain range or over a ridge. If following the lowest possible route, a pass is locally the highest point on that route...
lying between the Mönch
Mönch
The Mönch is a mountain in the Bernese Alps, in Switzerland. Together with the Eiger and the Jungfrau it forms a highly recognisable group of mountains visible from far away....
(south) and the Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
(north). The lowest point (3,614 m) on the ridge is named Nördliches Eigerjoch while another pass (3,747 m) located closer to the Mönch is named Südliches Eigerjoch.
The Eiger does not lie in the ridge of the Bernese Alps
Bernese Alps
The Bernese Alps are a group of mountain ranges in the western part of the Alps, in Switzerland. Although the name suggests that they are located in the Bernese Oberland region of the canton of Bern, portions of the Bernese Alps are in the adjacent cantons of Valais, Lucerne, Obwalden, Fribourg and...
which divides the basins of the Rhone
Rhône
Rhone can refer to:* Rhone, one of the major rivers of Europe, running through Switzerland and France* Rhône Glacier, the source of the Rhone River and one of the primary contributors to Lake Geneva in the far eastern end of the canton of Valais in Switzerland...
and the Aar, but forms a promontory extending north-east from the Mönch, and is connected with it by a long and high arête
Arete
Areté is the term meaning "virtue" or "excellence", from Greek ἈρετήArete may also be used:*as a given name of persons or things:**Queen Arete , a character in Homer's Odyssey.***197 Arete, an asteroid....
, in which jagged teeth of rock project through a coating of ice. At the southern end, where this arete abuts against the shoulder of the Mönch, it overlooks the gently-sloping plateau which forms the summit of the Mönchsjoch, and the descent on the side of the Aletsch Glacier
Aletsch Glacier
The Aletsch Glacier or Great Aletsch Glacier is the largest glacier in the Alps. It has a length of about and covers more than in the eastern Bernese Alps in the Swiss canton of Valais...
presents no serious difficulty.
First crossing
The first crossing was made by Leslie StephenLeslie Stephen
Sir Leslie Stephen, KCB was an English author, critic and mountaineer, and the father of Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell.-Life:...
W. and G. S. Mathews, with Ulrich Lauener of Lauterbrunnen, and J. B. Croz and M. Charlet of Chamonix.
In August 1859, the three enterprising mountaineers above named, failing to perceive any route by which the Jungfraujoch
Jungfraujoch
The Jungfraujoch is a col or saddle between the Mönch and the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps on the boundary between the cantons of Bern and Valais, inside the Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area....
could be attacked with a fair prospect of success, resolved to attempt to pass from the Wengern Alp by the north and east sides of the peak of the Mönch. Starting at 4 a.m. they soon reached the Eiger Glacier
Eiger Glacier
The Eiger Glacier is a 2.5 km long glacier situated in the Bernese Alps in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. In 1973 it had an area of 2.13 km².-External links:*...
, and ascended for some distance along the side nearest to the Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
. On reaching the very much crevassed middle region of the glacier, some time was lost in the endeavour to force a direct way. The correct course was to cross to the southern bank below the rocks of the Mönch. After a short ascent the form of the crevasses made it expedient to cross back to the opposite side, nearly to the edge of the glacier, here held up by the great rocky buttress of the Eiger, so remarkable from the Wengern Alp. Further progress seemed to be barred by the menacing condition of the seracs; but the difficulties could be avoided by crossing the glacier diagonally a third time to a sort of snow valley, where the crevasses were apparently filled up by avalanches from the Mönch. By this circuitous but not very difficult route the party reached the uppermost plateau of the glacier, lying immediately below the ridge connecting the two peaks. On the side nearest the Monch the ridge was accessible only by extremely long and steep slopes of hard snow. At the end approaching the Eiger the ridge is far easier of access, and this therefore was the first object of attack. On gaining the summit the travellers found themselves at the top of a tremendous precipice overlooking one arm of the Lower Grindelwald Glacier
Lower Grindelwald Glacier
The Lower Grindelwald Glacier is the western one and the largest of the two Grindelwald Glaciers in the Bernese Alps, south of Grindelwald, the other being the Upper Grindelwald Glacier.The Lower Grindelwald Glacier covers an area of ....
, while the arête to the right connecting them with the Mönch was broken through by so many jagged teeth of rock, and at the same time so narrow and difficult, that many hours would probably have been consumed in passing along it. It was therefore thought expedient to return, and to attempt the ascent by the ice-slope, as it should be called since the névé is so hard and slippery as to make stepcutting very laborious. Ulrich Lauener on that occasion displayed extraordinary strength and endurance, having in 5 hours of uninterrupted work cut 580 steps on an ice slope of from 50 to 52° inclination. That effort sufficed only to enable the party to gain a patch of rock some way below the summit of the ridge, and more than an hour more was expended in reaching the desired goal. Turning to the right along the arête, they finally reached at 6 p.m. the point on the shoulder of the Mönch which forms the summit level of this pass, which was probably the Südliches Eigerjoch.
In descending to the Aletsch Glacier the discoverers of this pass were benighted before they could reach the comparative shelter of the Kaulberg cave, and were forced to pass the night on some exposed rocks at the southern base of the Trugberg
Trugberg
The Trugberg is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is located above the Konkordiaplatz where the névé of the Jungfraufirn on the west side and the Ewigschneefeld on the east side converge to form the Aletsch Glacier. The Trugberg lies south of the Mönch.In 1841 a group of explorers...
, where their position in case of bad weather would have been very critical. The Eggishorn
Eggishorn
The Eggishorn is a mountain in the Bernese Alps, Valais, Switzerland.It lies within the Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn region, which has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. On its northern flank is the Aletsch Glacier. From the summit the view extends also to the Lepontine and Pennine...
was reached on the following morning about 9 a.m. in about 29 hours trom the Wengern Alp.
See also
- List of highest paved roads in Europe
- List of mountain passes