Candleston Castle
Encyclopedia
Candleston Castle is a 14th.c. fortified manor house, in ruins since the nineteenth century 3/4 mi southwest of Merthyr Mawr
Merthyr Mawr
Merthyr Mawr is a village about 2½ miles from the centre of Bridgend in the county borough of Bridgend, Wales.- Buildings and landmarks of note :...

, former Glamorgan, Wales, and just 3/4 mi northwest of Ogmore Castle
Ogmore Castle
Ogmore Castle is located near the village of Ogmore-by-Sea, south of the town of Bridgend in Glamorgan, South Wales. It is situated on the south bank of the River Ewenny and the east bank of the River Ogmore. Cowbridge is nearby. Its construction might have begun in 1106...

, separated by the River Ogmore
River Ogmore
The River Ogmore is a river in South Wales popular with anglers. It runs generally from north to south from the Ogmore Vale and Pentre, past Bridgend and Ogmore...

. Candleston's original long and narrow rectangular structure lay across the western end of a low narrow promontory, suggesting a defensive position. The castle is named after the Norman family of Cantilupe, its first feudal tenants
Feudalism
Feudalism was a set of legal and military customs in medieval Europe that flourished between the 9th and 15th centuries, which, broadly defined, was a system for ordering society around relationships derived from the holding of land in exchange for service or labour.Although derived from the...

.

Encroachment of Sands

Candleston's elevated position was just sufficient to save it from burial under the coastal sands which started to encroach over the site and its lands shortly after its original establishment. The nearby castle and settlement of Kenfig suffered this fate, having been abandoned around 1470, and is now completely submerged by sand. John Leland wrote in about 1539 : "There is a little village on the est side of Kenfik, and a castel, booth in ruine and almost shokid (choked) and devourid with the sandes that the Severn Se ther castiith up". Historical evidence indicates that the process of be-sandment was very active in the later mediaeval period, from deterioration of climate, storms, higher rainfall and abnormal tides. The promontory on which Candleston stands forms a relatively stable margin against the sands, occupying the eastern edge of what is now Europe's largest sand dune system. The site thus commands spectacular vistas over an extensive tract of lofty dunes, some up to 200 ft (61 m). high, to the N.S.& W. To the S. the sands cover the eroded former wooded manorial terrain of Merthyr Mawr Warren
Warren (free)
Free warren—often simply warren—refers to a type of franchise or privilege conveyed by a sovereign in mediaeval England to a subject, promising to hold them harmless for killing game of certain species within a stipulated area, usually a wood or small forest...

, covering some 900 acres (3.6 km²), and to the W. cover what is believed to be a former related ancient settlement, known in Welsh as Tregantlow. In 1823 the shifting sands exposed 300 yards to the W. substantial remains of the manorial windmill, the foundations of further buildings reportedly having been seen nearby. Clearly, the chronically encroaching sands caused the decline of the manor and ultimate abandonment of the Castle.

Function

The building is traditionally called a castle yet apparently was not originally built purely for defensive purposes. The structure displays only late mediaeval fabric, suggesting a much later date than the nearby true castle of Ogmore, which was originally erected hurriedly as an earth and timber motte and bailey fort used in effecting the Norman Conquest of Glamorgan. There is no strong evidence to suggest that Candleston was likewise raised on the site of an earlier castle-ringwork, though the circular trace of the flimsy courtyard wall around the tip of the promontory may reflect an earlier structure. Its strategic position does however suggest some defensive function. The presence of the former warren, or game preserve, immediately to the south may be significant. Candleston may have been designed as the residence of the Warrener, who whilst being an important feudal official, might not have merited, or been entitled to, a heavily fortified building. A local legend relates that it was the site of an ancient oratory belonging to a Celtic chapel. The stepped base of a Calvary Cross, of unreported date, with the fallen cross itself lying alongside, was found near the windmill uncovered by sand in 1823.

Structural description

The original block is more akin in internal dimensions to a Devon Longhouse, nowhere wider than 16 ft (4.9 m), in length 80 ft (24.4 m), yet included a second storey. Although prudently built in a defensive position, with substantial walls, it is likely to have been erected during a time of relative peace, since it was built without a tower. That the tower was a subsequent addition is clear as it comprises only 3 new walls built against, but not bonded into, the S. gable wall of the original hall and attached rectangular structure. The tower, containing a solar
Solar (room)
The solar was a room in many English and French medieval manor houses, great houses and castles, generally situated on an upper storey, designed as the family's private living and sleeping quarters...

 with a storey above and a vaulted undercroft, was designed to protect the gateway, and was probably erected during a period of political unrest. A very detailed structural and historical survey of the building is given in the report of the Royal Commission on the Ancient & Historical Monuments of Wales, which identifies 4 phases of construction. Firstly in the 14th.c. the original long rectangular structure comprising 2 chambers and hall with added tower. Secondly 15th.c. alterations to the hall. In 17th.c. a short west wing was added to enclose the main entry to the hall. Finally, c.1800 a stable block was added extending from the E. wall of the tower. The identification and dating of the various phases is assisted by the different mortar types used.

Merthyr Mawr Lordship

Candleston was a mesne (i.e. "middle" or sub/under) manor within the fee of Merthyr Mawr, which was acquired by the St. Quintin lords of Llanbleddian and Talyfan in the 12th.c. The original St Quintin is likely to have been one of the Norman knights, by legend 12 in number, who conquered Glamorgan under Robert FitzHamon
Robert Fitzhamon
Robert Fitzhamon , or Robert FitzHamon, Sieur de Creully in the Calvados region and Torigny in the Manche region of Normandy, was Lord of Gloucester and the Norman conqueror of Glamorgan, southern Wales...

(d.1107), Earl of Gloucester, 1st. Lord of Glamorgan
Lord of Glamorgan
The Lordship of Glamorgan was one of the most powerful and wealthy of the Welsh Marcher Lordships. Established by the conquest of Glamorgan from its last Welsh ruler the Anglo-Norman lord of Glamorgan like all Marcher lords ruled his lands directly by his own law, thus they could amongst other...

. Each knight was granted his own lordship, held under the lordship of Glamorgan seated at Cardiff Castle
Cardiff Castle
Cardiff Castle is a medieval castle and Victorian architecture Gothic revival mansion, transformed from a Norman keep erected over a Roman fort in the Castle Quarter of Cardiff, the capital of Wales. The Castle is a Grade I Listed Building.-The Roman fort:...

 which he was free to sub-enfeoff to his own followers or to other tenants. It is uncertain when the St. Quintins sub-enfeoffed Candleston, but there is no doubt that their original tenants were the de Cantilupe family.

Nomenclature of Castle

The castle and manor took the name of its first feudal tenants, the Cantilupe family, which name itself probably derived from the Normandy manor of Canteloup (the modern French cartographic spelling) 10 m. E. of Caen. The spelling universally used by modern historians is "Cantilupe", which is followed here. The name was spelt variously in ancient times as Canteloupe, Cantlow etc., Latinised as Cantilupo, Cantelo etc. The manor is likely originally to have been named "Cantilupe's-ton", signifying Village/Settlement of the Cantilupe's. ("Tun" in Old English/Saxon/Norse: Village). The Welsh version was Tregantlow, (Tre(f)-G(C)antlow) "Tref/Tre" in Welsh being the equivalent of Ton/Tun in English. It occurs as Cantelowstowne(1596) and Cantloston(c.1635)

History of the Cantilupe Family

Ancient charters of Glamorgan, whilst replete with mentions of the name Cantilupe, reveal little concrete evidence as to the role and genealogy of the family. The relationship of the Cantilupe family of Glamorgan to its more illustrious branch descended from Fulk de Cantilupe (d.1217/18) has not been determined with certainty. Fulk was Sheriff of Berkshire 1200-01 and a member of the household of Count John of Mortain, future King. He was granted much land in the Civil War, in Hampshire, Wiltshire, Northamptonshire and Essex amongst other places. His heir was nephew William I de Cantilupe, buried at Studley Priory, Warwickshire
Studley Priory, Warwickshire
Studley Priory, Warwickshire was a priory in Warwickshire, England.The Augustinian priory was founded in the 12th century by Peter Corbizun but was closed at the dissolution under Henry VIII and was used as a source of stone for other local buildings...

, Steward of the Household to King John. His younger son Walter de Cantilupe
Walter de Cantilupe
Walter de Cantilupe was a medieval Bishop of Worcester.-Life:He came of a family which had risen by devoted service to the crown...

(d.1266) became Bishop of Worcester, his heir being William II (d.1251), Steward of King Henry III. William II's 3rd. son was St. Thomas de Cantilupe(d.1282), Bishop of Hereford, canonised 1320. The See of Hereford still bears the Cantilupe arms, reversed, in honour of St. Thomas. William III de Cantilupe, heir of William II married Eva de Briouze, daughter and heiress of William V de Briouze Lord of Brecon and Bergavenny. His heir Sir George de Cantilupe, Baron Bergavenny, born at Bergavenny
Abergavenny
Abergavenny , meaning Mouth of the River Gavenny, is a market town in Monmouthshire, Wales. It is located 15 miles west of Monmouth on the A40 and A465 roads, 6 miles from the English border. Originally the site of a Roman fort, Gobannium, it became a medieval walled town within the Welsh Marches...

 in 1251, was the last of the greater Cantilupe line, dying without male issue in 1273. Both branches of the family flourished contemporaneously, yet the Glamorgan branch remained in relative obscurity. That it was related might be determined if it could be proved that identical armourials were borne by both families. Those adopted post c. 1220 by the greater branch were: "3 leopards' faces jessant-de-lys". The Denys family of Glamorgan, contemporaneous with the Glamorgan Cantilupes, bore as their arms "3 leopards' faces jessant-de-lis, a bend over all". It appears the arms were granted as "Arms of Patronage" by their likely feudal lords the Cantilupes, who imposed the bend (i.e. diagonal band) as a mark of "difference". This appears to suggest that the Glamorgan Cantilupes used the same armorials as the family of St. Thomas of Hereford.

Cantilupe of Glamorgan

The Despenser Survey of Glamorgan in 1320 is the first concrete record the Cantilupe family at Candleston, where Robert III de Cantilupe held 1 ploughland. Yet the family had clearly long been established in the location. The Cantilupe's were contemporaries of the Norman Robert FitzHamon
Robert Fitzhamon
Robert Fitzhamon , or Robert FitzHamon, Sieur de Creully in the Calvados region and Torigny in the Manche region of Normandy, was Lord of Gloucester and the Norman conqueror of Glamorgan, southern Wales...

(d.1107), Lord of Gloucester who with his legendary 12 knights conquered Glamorgan under William II. The family however never seems to have held land in capite from the Lords of Glamorgan. William I de Cantilupe was mentioned in 1128 having possessed by force land in Llandaff (nr. Cardiff)diocese, which he returned before 1128. Elias de Cantilupe attested deeds 1140-48 and married Maud, da. of William de Londres of Ogmore(d.1126). His descendants witnessed several de Londres grants to Margam Abbey
Margam Abbey
Margam Abbey was a Cistercian monastery, located in the village of Margam, a suburb of modern Port Talbot in Wales.-History:The abbey was founded in 1147 as a daughter house of Clairvaux by Robert, Earl of Gloucester and was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. The abbey was dissolved by King...

 and Ewenny Priory
Ewenny Priory
Ewenny Priory, in Ewenny in the Vale of Glamorgan, Wales, was a monastery of the Benedictine order, founded in the 12th century.The building was unusual in having military-style defences. Following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the priory, like many of its kind, was converted into a private...

. Robert I, son of Elias, attested deeds 1140-48 and 1149-1183.
Richard de Cantilupe, a contemporary of Maurice de Londres, son of William de Londres, made a grant of land to Ewenny 1140-48. A Mabel de Cantilupe married William de Londres, possibly son of Maurice de Londres, 12th.c. Ralph de Cantilupe in the late 12th.c. attested several de Londres grants to Margam. William II de Cantilupe attests late 12th.c. and 1st. quarter of 13th.c. William III de Cantilupe attested a Turberville grant to Ewenny Priory, 1210–19, and witnessed confirmations made to Margam Abbey by Earl Geoffrey and Countess Isabel in 1214-16. After 1223 William III attested a confirmation to Ewenny Priory by William de Londres. He last appears in 1245 at the county court at Stalling Down in the suit of Richard Siward and de Clare. He was clearly an important man. Robert II de Cantilupe also figured at the proceedings against Siward, as one of six "worthy and law-abiding" men representing Earl Richard's charges. He is recorded as a juror at the county court in 1247 and 1249. Robert II also attests several deeds 1234-49 and in 1258, a deed of Turberville exchanging land with Margam. It is probable that Candleston had been acquired by the time of Robert II, given the status he had obtained, yet confirmation should not be expected from the Extent of Glamorgan taken in 1262, which listed only manors held in capite, not sub-manors like Candleston. Robert III de Cantilupe (fl. 1299-1320) attested charters to Ewenny in 1303, 1304 and 1308, and served in 1316 as seneshal to Payn de Turberville Lord of Coity. Robert III, who is not recorded after 1320, may have been the builder of the primary fortified manor and may have been succeeded by John de Cantilupe, who attested a Merthyr Mawr charter in 1328. It is possible the latter was the John de Cantilupe described as Abbot of Margam in 1325, no longer Abbot in 1338. An alternative builder of the Castle is David de Cantilupe who attests in 1351 with Nicholas de Cantilupe, David signing first, possibly implying him to be an elder brother. Nicholas de Cantilupe served in 1333 on a jury at the county court in a case concerning rights of shipwreck claimed by Roger de Berkerolles, then his overlord, attested in 1351 a Lovel family deed at Newton Nottage and is last recorded in 1366 serving as sub-bailiff for the Co. of Glamorgan. Nicholas appears to have died without issue, although David had a da. Margaret who married Thomas le Eyre of Brychanswell. Their da. Joan married Sir Gilbert Denys, uncle of Sir Gilbert Denys of Waterton, Glamorgan and later of Siston Court, Gloucestershire.

Heiresses of Hopkin ap Howel Ychan of Tythegstone

Lewis Nicholl, whose family owned Candleston in the 20th.c. researched the descent of the manor in his book "The Normans in Glamorgan". He mentions the 9 daughters of Hopkin, who all married within Glamorgan, as being joint heiresses of the Cantilupe's of Candleston. It appears Hopkin's father Howel had married a da. and heiress of "Sir William Cantilupe". Six of these daughters are as follows:

1) Katherine, m. Llewelyn Ychan, 2nd. son of Llewellyn ap Cynfrig, Lord of Miscin.

2) Maud, m. Wilcock Turberville, 2nd. son of Sir Richard Turberville, Lord of Coity.

3) Gladys, m. Robert le Regni, son of Sir Roger, Lord of Brocastle.

4) Wenllian, m. John Lovel.

5) Joan, m. John Denys of Waterton, Glamorgan, father of Sir Gilbert Denys(d.1422) of Siston Court, Glos.

6) Elizabeth, m. Reginald de Somerton (who married again a Loretta)

Nicholl states that The Denys family at one time held a share of Candleston, whether via Joan le Eyre or Joan da. of Hopkin is uncertain. As mentioned above, the Denys family arms, which it retained until 1701, were the arms of Cantilupe (3 leopards' faces jessant-de-lys) differenced with a bend over-all. It appears these arms were granted in the 13th.c. by the Cantilupe family as "Arms of Patronage" to the Denys's, who were probably their feudal tenants or officers, therefore connected to the manor of Candleston. A Charter of 1258 (Clark's Cartae DXCIV) concerning an exchange of land between Gilbert de Turberville and Margam Abbey was witnessed by 5 people including Roberto de Cantulupo (II) and Willelmo le Deneys.

Horton & Eyre

Following this somewhat confusing and seemingly temporary tenancy, Sir William Horton succeeded to Candleston as husband of Joan de Cantilupe, apparently da, & heiress of Robert III. Horton was from Tregwynt, Pembroke, and pedigrees indicate that his son Jenkin was succeeded by a da., Janet or Jennet, whomarried Richard Cradock (or Caradoc). Jenkin Horton may never have occupied Candleston, though it reverted to Richard Cradock. In 1411, a Nicholas Horton paid a small quit rent to the lord of Merthyr Mawr for certain lands, not named, but evidently Candleston. Not otherwise recorded he was a cadet and his tenancy was brief. In 1412 John Eyre appears in a bailiff's account as the holder of these lands in right of his wife Joan, paying an almost identical rent for them. Further accounts and extents show that Eyre and his wife held 3 1/2 ploughlands until 1467-8. In 1429 John Eyre was returned as holding "his fee of Candleston". In 1440 he sued Thomas de Cantilupe over unspecified lands in the county court. John's wife is said to have been a da. of a Margaret Cantilupe, but the form of their tenure or a childless marriage saw the reversion of Candleston to Janet Horton and her husband Richard Cradock. Richard Cradock probably married Janet Horton around 1468 as may be deduced from the fact that their son and heir Sir Mathew Cradock(d.1531) was born about then. Sir Mathew played a leading role in the admin. of Glamorgan and Gower. In 1486 he was appt. constable for life of the castles of Caerphilly and Kenfig. He was steward of Gower in 1491 and 1497, his brass at Swansea describing him as Chancellor of Glamorgan. He was probably responsible for the extensive alterations and refurbishment at Candleston in the late 15th.c. In 1531 he was survived by Margarte, his only child, who took Candleston in marr. to Sir richard Herbert of Ewyas, Hereford.

Herbert & Doddington

Sir Richard Herbert and Margaret were succeeded at Candleston by their 2nd. son Sir George Herbert of Swansea, their eldest son William Herbert being created in 1551 1st. Earl of Pembroke (2nd. creation). In 1546 Sir George was returned as its lord, when it was termed a fee held by knight's service, an anachronistic form of tenure it had never enjoyed. Candleston passed to Sir George's son, Mathew Herbert, and to his grandson, Sir William Herbert, in possession in 1598. The latter was succeeded in 1609 by his brother, Sir John, whose da. Mary on his death in 1617 carried the manor to Sir William Doddington.

Greville, Franklen & Nicholl.

Doddington's granddaughter carried it to Robert Greville, 4th. Baron Brooke of Warwick. Greville d. 1676 and was succeeded by his brother whose great-grandson Francis Greville, 8th. Baron Brooke was cr. E. of warwick in 1759. Candleston was maintained during the 17th. & 18th. centuries (as minor works attest) but there is no structural or documentary evidence to suggest it was considered other than a periphery manor, rarely visited by its owners. It was sold by the Grevilles in the 18th.c. to the Franklen family who permitted Sir John Nicholl of Merthyr Mawr to reside there 1806-8 whilst awaiting completion of his new mansion. In 1830 Nicholl purchased Candleston from Richard Franklen, and in the early 19th.c. the castle was said to have a good dining room, drawing room and breakfast rooms, with 4 bedrooms, servants' rooms, walled garden and lawn, stable, coach house and other offices.
It served as a farmhouse until the late 19th.c. when it was finally abandoned. It has remained part of the Merthyr Mawr Estate.

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