The White Spider
Encyclopedia
The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer
describes mountain climbing attempts of the "Eiger
Nordwand" (Eiger North Face), including the first successful ascent.
The White Spider tells the story of the first ascents (and attempts) of the Nordwand, from Max Sedlmeyer
's and Karl Mehringer
's disastrous try in 1935 to the 13th successful one by Kurt Diemberger
and Wolfgang Stefan in July 1958.
Heinrich Harrer received many personal letters and reports from befriended climbers, which he sifted through with climber and author Kurt Maix in order to distil the contents of The White Spider. In particular detail, Harrer describes the tragedy of the 1936 attempt by Edi Rainer, Willy Angerer, Andreas Hinterstoisser
and Toni Kurz
in which all died, as well as Harrer's own climb, the strenuous climb of Hermann Buhl
, Gaston Rébuffat and their seven partners (1952), and the catastrophe of 1957, when the two italians Stefano Longhi and Claudio Corti joined the Germans Günther Nothdurft and Franz Mayer – which resulted in eight bivouac nights for the Italians and the death of all but Corti. Harrer's account of this particular tragedy (with his very negative portrayal of Corti) was the subject of considerable controversy and is no longer considered historically accurate.
In some of these accounts, Heinrich Harrer describes the media frenzy which ensued after all tragedies – the whole of the Nordwand can be inspected from the Kleine Scheidegg
using telescopes, provided there is no fog – and some of the motivation behind climbing and alpinism in itself.
The title of the book is derived from a spider
-shaped ice field high on the north face of the mountain, towering above the town of Grindelwald
, Switzerland
. As Harrer explains, the Spider is a key point in climbing the Nordwand: Reaching that ice field, one is very tired, but cannot rest and must proceed. The White Spider acts much like a funnel – any rock- and ice slides are channelled over the ice field which the climbers must pass.
Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrer was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author.He is best known for his books Seven Years in Tibet and The White Spider .-Athletics:...
describes mountain climbing attempts of the "Eiger
Eiger
The Eiger is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at 4,158 m...
Nordwand" (Eiger North Face), including the first successful ascent.
The White Spider tells the story of the first ascents (and attempts) of the Nordwand, from Max Sedlmeyer
Max Sedlmeyer
Max Sedlmayr was a German mountaineer and climber. A member of the first team to attempt the North Face of the Eiger in 1935. After three days he and Karl Mehringer were overtaken by a storm at the top of the "Flat Iron" feature of the face and both were killed.- Bibliography :*The White...
's and Karl Mehringer
Karl Mehringer
Karl Mehringer was a German mountaineer and climber. Notable for being part of the first team to attempt to climb the Eiger Nordwand or North Face in 1935...
's disastrous try in 1935 to the 13th successful one by Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent...
and Wolfgang Stefan in July 1958.
Heinrich Harrer received many personal letters and reports from befriended climbers, which he sifted through with climber and author Kurt Maix in order to distil the contents of The White Spider. In particular detail, Harrer describes the tragedy of the 1936 attempt by Edi Rainer, Willy Angerer, Andreas Hinterstoisser
Andreas Hinterstoisser
Andreas Hinterstoißer, transliterated Hinterstoisser, was a German mountain climber of the early 20th century.-Climbing the Eiger:...
and Toni Kurz
Toni Kurz
Toni Kurz was a German mountain climber of the early 20th century who had many first ascents with his childhood friend Andreas Hinterstoisser...
in which all died, as well as Harrer's own climb, the strenuous climb of Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
, Gaston Rébuffat and their seven partners (1952), and the catastrophe of 1957, when the two italians Stefano Longhi and Claudio Corti joined the Germans Günther Nothdurft and Franz Mayer – which resulted in eight bivouac nights for the Italians and the death of all but Corti. Harrer's account of this particular tragedy (with his very negative portrayal of Corti) was the subject of considerable controversy and is no longer considered historically accurate.
In some of these accounts, Heinrich Harrer describes the media frenzy which ensued after all tragedies – the whole of the Nordwand can be inspected from the Kleine Scheidegg
Kleine Scheidegg
The Kleine Scheidegg is a high mountain pass below and between the Eiger and Lauberhorn peaks in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland. It connects Grindelwald with Lauterbrunnen. The name means "minor watershed", even though it is actually higher than the neighbouring Grosse Scheidegg...
using telescopes, provided there is no fog – and some of the motivation behind climbing and alpinism in itself.
The title of the book is derived from a spider
Spider
Spiders are air-breathing arthropods that have eight legs, and chelicerae with fangs that inject venom. They are the largest order of arachnids and rank seventh in total species diversity among all other groups of organisms...
-shaped ice field high on the north face of the mountain, towering above the town of Grindelwald
Grindelwald
Grindelwald is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. The village is located at above sea level in the Bernese Alps.-Winter sports:...
, Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
. As Harrer explains, the Spider is a key point in climbing the Nordwand: Reaching that ice field, one is very tired, but cannot rest and must proceed. The White Spider acts much like a funnel – any rock- and ice slides are channelled over the ice field which the climbers must pass.