New bespoke movement
Encyclopedia
The New bespoke movement is a term describing a modern development within British bespoke tailoring. Originating in the early 1990s, those tailors associated with the movement were attempting to revitalise the traditional styling of Savile Row
.
, however, by the early 1990s, Savile Row
was facing financial crisis, 'struggling to find relevance with an audience that had grown increasingly disassociated from it.' Three tailors in particular, set out to revitalise this bespoke style in order to remedy this; they were Ozwald Boateng
, Timothy Everest
(himself, an apprentice of Nutter's) and Richard James. Having each broken away independently from the Savile Row mould, public relations professional Alison Hargreaves coined the term New Bespoke Movement to describe collectively the work of this 'new generation' of tailors. Having grouped the three tailors together, Hargreaves pushed the Movement into the public arena, reaching its peak in 1997 when the three were featured together in Vanity Fair
. Indeed, the issue, entitled Cool Britania portrayed the tailors as the forefront of nineties style and design.
The three men, recognizing that the qualities of Savile Row (customer service, fit and exclusivity) were highly desirable, were attempting to market the art of bespoke
to attract the next generation of customer. In contrast to the secretive Savile Row traditionalists, the newcomers altered their shop fronts and utilised marketing and publicity to their advantage. For example, James opened his Savile Row store in 1992, introducing a Saturday opening, something alien to contemporary Savile Row.
The New Bespoke Movement was thus challenging the traditional Savile Row styling, bringing twists 'and a fine sense of colour to bespoke suits.' They were able to use the techniques perfected on Savile Row to 'push the envelope of modern suit making and bespoke active wear, creating more contemporary silhouettes with bolder fabrics.'
Unlike the older establishments, these men set out to garner celebrity clients, diseminate their products via supermarket
chains and attract wider national and international custom, raising the profile of their new tailoring style; arguably an aim which has been achieved. In 2001 Richard James was awarded the title Menswear designer of the Year, while Boateng received the French Trophee de la Mode for Best Male Designer in 1996.
While these tailors encouraged a trend of modernisation among Savile Row styling, now, in 2010, these 'New Establishment' tailors are united with the Founding Fathers on the Row, ensuring continued and wide ranging appeal. The New Bespoke Movement has become a legitimate part of Savile Row's long history.
Savile Row
Savile Row is a shopping street in Mayfair, central London, famous for its traditional men's bespoke tailoring. The term "bespoke" is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers...
.
History
Modernisation of the Row had begun in 1969, with the emergence of Tommy NutterTommy Nutter
Tommy Nutter , was a British tailor, famous for reinventing the Savile Row suit in the 1960s.Born in Barmouth, Merioneth, he was raised in Edgware, Middlesex, where his father owned a local High Street Cafe. After the family moved to Kilburn, Nutter and his brother David attended Willesden...
, however, by the early 1990s, Savile Row
Savile Row
Savile Row is a shopping street in Mayfair, central London, famous for its traditional men's bespoke tailoring. The term "bespoke" is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers...
was facing financial crisis, 'struggling to find relevance with an audience that had grown increasingly disassociated from it.' Three tailors in particular, set out to revitalise this bespoke style in order to remedy this; they were Ozwald Boateng
Ozwald Boateng
Ozwald Boateng OBE is a British-born fashion designer of Ghanaian descent, known for his trade mark twist style on classic British tailoring. Inspired by his father's suits, Boateng opened his first shop on Savile Row at the age of 23.-Biography:...
, Timothy Everest
Timothy Everest
Timothy Everest, MBE is a Welsh bespoke tailor and designer who has, according to Vogue, "dressed some of the world's most famous people". Born in Haverfordwest, Wales, he moved to London in his early twenties to work with innovative Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter, where he learned the art of...
(himself, an apprentice of Nutter's) and Richard James. Having each broken away independently from the Savile Row mould, public relations professional Alison Hargreaves coined the term New Bespoke Movement to describe collectively the work of this 'new generation' of tailors. Having grouped the three tailors together, Hargreaves pushed the Movement into the public arena, reaching its peak in 1997 when the three were featured together in Vanity Fair
Vanity Fair (magazine)
Vanity Fair is a magazine of pop culture, fashion, and current affairs published by Condé Nast. The present Vanity Fair has been published since 1983 and there have been editions for four European countries as well as the U.S. edition. This revived the title which had ceased publication in 1935...
. Indeed, the issue, entitled Cool Britania portrayed the tailors as the forefront of nineties style and design.
The three men, recognizing that the qualities of Savile Row (customer service, fit and exclusivity) were highly desirable, were attempting to market the art of bespoke
Bespoke
Bespoke is a term employed in a variety of applications to mean an item custom-made to the buyer's specification...
to attract the next generation of customer. In contrast to the secretive Savile Row traditionalists, the newcomers altered their shop fronts and utilised marketing and publicity to their advantage. For example, James opened his Savile Row store in 1992, introducing a Saturday opening, something alien to contemporary Savile Row.
The New Bespoke Movement was thus challenging the traditional Savile Row styling, bringing twists 'and a fine sense of colour to bespoke suits.' They were able to use the techniques perfected on Savile Row to 'push the envelope of modern suit making and bespoke active wear, creating more contemporary silhouettes with bolder fabrics.'
Unlike the older establishments, these men set out to garner celebrity clients, diseminate their products via supermarket
Supermarket
A supermarket, a form of grocery store, is a self-service store offering a wide variety of food and household merchandise, organized into departments...
chains and attract wider national and international custom, raising the profile of their new tailoring style; arguably an aim which has been achieved. In 2001 Richard James was awarded the title Menswear designer of the Year, while Boateng received the French Trophee de la Mode for Best Male Designer in 1996.
While these tailors encouraged a trend of modernisation among Savile Row styling, now, in 2010, these 'New Establishment' tailors are united with the Founding Fathers on the Row, ensuring continued and wide ranging appeal. The New Bespoke Movement has become a legitimate part of Savile Row's long history.