Hochvogel
Encyclopedia
The Hochvogel is a 2,592 m high mountain in the Allgäu Alps
. The national border between Germany and Austria runs over the summit. Experienced climbers can ascend the summit on two marked routes.
(Dolomia Principale). The highest and most striking mountains in the Allgäu Alps are all made of this rock. Tectonically the Hochvogel and its Dolomia Principale Formation belong to the so-called Lech Valley Nappe (Lechtaldecke).
This rock package was overthrust over younger layers of rock during the course of Alpine mountain folding. The dolomia principale is brittle in places, but forms striking rock formations in places in conjunction with the forces of erosion. The hut diary of the Prinz Luitpold Haus reports a mighty landslide on 27 May 1935 when thousands of cubic metres of rock from the southwest face crashed down into the valley.
Although only the thirteenth highest summit in the Allgäu Alps, the Hochvogel dominates other parts of Allgäu Alps and the other ranges in the immediate neighbourhood. This is due to the fact that the majority of the higher peaks are concentrated in the central and western part of the Allgäu Alps. The Hochvogel stands on its own in the eastern part of the mountain group; the nearest neighbouring summits are 200 to 300 metres lower.
(Alpenvereinsführer) for the Allgäu Alps state that the mountain was first climbed a long time ago. One of the most notable touristic climbs was by Hermann von Barth
.
Hermann von Barth stayed overnight at the summit in 1869. On 19 July that year he started off from Sonthofen in the morning and reached Hinterstein, travelling exclusively on foot, where he took a midday rest around 12 o'clock before continuing. Passing the Bärgündlealpe alps, the Balkenscharte saddle and the Kalter Winkel he reached the summit of the Hochvogel at around 8 o'clock in the evening. On the next day he climbed south on the eastern side of the south-southwestern arête into the Rosskar cirque and continued down to Hinterhornbach
. On that day he arrived at the confluence of the Schwarzwasserbach and the Lech, where he stayed in an abandoned Alpine hut. The next day he walked via Weißenbach and the Gaicht Pass to Nesselwängle, climbed the Aggenstein
and overnighted in Schattwald
. On the fourth day of his great tour he returned to Sonthofen in the morning.
is the valley settlement on the southern side (in the Tyrol, Austria). Hinterstein is the village on the northern side (in the Free State of Bavaria, Germany). The approach routes from the two valleys are very different. Hinterhornbach is located immediately at the foot of the Hochvogel, its summit – admittedly not its picturesque side (Schauseite) – can be seen from the village. By contrast, Hinterstein is relatively far down the valley. The Hochvogel cannot be seen from Hinterstein or its neighbouring valleys.
On the German side there is a climber's base, the Prinz Luitpold Haus, run by the German Alpine Club. This Alpine hut
may be reached from Hinterstein on the road to the Giebelhaus by bus (it is closed to private vehicles), and then on the farm track to the Bärgündletal valley and on the Alpine Club path (Alpenvereinsweg) to the hut.
of I. The normal route runs from the Prinz Luitpold Haus (1,846 m) in 2½ hours over the Balkenscharte saddle and the snowfield of the Kalter Winkel to the summit. In early summer, crampons or Grödeln (= light crampons) will be needed to negotiate the said snowfield. The Kalter Winkel can be circumvented by using a partially secured climb via the Kreuzspitze, which joins the route from the Prinz Luitpold Haus above the snowfield. The rather more challenging Bäumenheimer Weg runs from the south, starting at Hinterhornbach
in the Lechtal and takes 4½ hours to the top. The Bäumenheimer Weg can also be used in winter.
Starting at the Prinz Luitpold Haus, hikers can ascend on the normal path and descend over the Bäumenheimer Weg. At the foot of the Bäumenheimer Weg there is a linking path over the Fuchsen saddle, that leads back to the Prinz Luitpold Haus.
The out-of-print editions of the Alpine Club Guide
s for the Allgäu Alps also show several climbing routes. These are:
The current 16th edition of the Alpine Club Guide
only contains routes up to climbing grade II. This means that in the literature today only the two normal routes to the Hochvogel are described. In 2006, however, the Allgäu-Immenstadt DAV Section put forward a DAV hut guide for the Prinz Luitpold Haus that presents the four current climbing routes on the northern side of the Hochvogel on one photograph and describes and assesses them in the text.
In the era of sport climbing, the climbing routes on the Hochvogel, which involve brittle rock and a long approach march, are rarely used.
According to the United States Air Force
the accident was due to a navigation error when the aircraft flew into a snowstorm. The wreck of the machine was dismantled in the 1950s and carried away.
Allgäu Alps
The Allgäu Alps are a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps, located in Bavaria in Germany and Tyrol and Vorarlberg in Austria. The range lies directly east of Lake Constance.-Principal summits:-External links:*...
. The national border between Germany and Austria runs over the summit. Experienced climbers can ascend the summit on two marked routes.
Geology
The Hochvogel consists of dolomiteDolomia Principale Formation
The Dolomia Principale Formation is a Mesozoic geologic formation. Fossil prosauropod tracks have been reported from the formation.-See also:* List of dinosaur-bearing rock formations** List of stratigraphic units with sauropodomorph tracks...
(Dolomia Principale). The highest and most striking mountains in the Allgäu Alps are all made of this rock. Tectonically the Hochvogel and its Dolomia Principale Formation belong to the so-called Lech Valley Nappe (Lechtaldecke).
This rock package was overthrust over younger layers of rock during the course of Alpine mountain folding. The dolomia principale is brittle in places, but forms striking rock formations in places in conjunction with the forces of erosion. The hut diary of the Prinz Luitpold Haus reports a mighty landslide on 27 May 1935 when thousands of cubic metres of rock from the southwest face crashed down into the valley.
Although only the thirteenth highest summit in the Allgäu Alps, the Hochvogel dominates other parts of Allgäu Alps and the other ranges in the immediate neighbourhood. This is due to the fact that the majority of the higher peaks are concentrated in the central and western part of the Allgäu Alps. The Hochvogel stands on its own in the eastern part of the mountain group; the nearest neighbouring summits are 200 to 300 metres lower.
Climbing history
The older, now out-of-print editions of the Alpine Club GuideAlpine Club Guide
The Alpine Club Guides are the standard series of Alpine guides that cover all the important mountain groups in the Eastern Alps. They are produced jointly by the German , Austrian and South Tyrol Alpine Clubs...
(Alpenvereinsführer) for the Allgäu Alps state that the mountain was first climbed a long time ago. One of the most notable touristic climbs was by Hermann von Barth
Hermann von Barth
Hermann von Barth was a famous German mountaineer.Hermann von Barth was born on 5 June 1845 at Eurasburg Castle. He initially studied law in Munich, where he was affiliated to the Corps Franconia. As a junior lawyer he began in 1868 in Berchtesgaden to explore the still largely unconquered...
.
Hermann von Barth stayed overnight at the summit in 1869. On 19 July that year he started off from Sonthofen in the morning and reached Hinterstein, travelling exclusively on foot, where he took a midday rest around 12 o'clock before continuing. Passing the Bärgündlealpe alps, the Balkenscharte saddle and the Kalter Winkel he reached the summit of the Hochvogel at around 8 o'clock in the evening. On the next day he climbed south on the eastern side of the south-southwestern arête into the Rosskar cirque and continued down to Hinterhornbach
Hinterhornbach
Hinterhornbach is a municipality in the Austrian district of Reutte, Tyrol....
. On that day he arrived at the confluence of the Schwarzwasserbach and the Lech, where he stayed in an abandoned Alpine hut. The next day he walked via Weißenbach and the Gaicht Pass to Nesselwängle, climbed the Aggenstein
Aggenstein
Aggenstein is a mountain located on the border Bavaria, Germany and Tyrol, Austria....
and overnighted in Schattwald
Schattwald
Schattwald is a municipality in the Austrian district of Reutte, Tyrol.Schattwald is home to Wannenjoch Mountain House, which is a tourist resort that overlooks the ski valley below....
. On the fourth day of his great tour he returned to Sonthofen in the morning.
Conservation
The side of the Hochvogel lying on German territory, including the neighbouring mountains and valleys, is part of the Allgäu High Alps Nature Reserve. On the Austrian side there is no nature reserve near the summit. The bottom of the Hornbach valley, which borders the Hochvogel to the south, together with large parts of the Lech valley and its side valleys was designated on 1 December 2004 as the Tyrolean Lech Nature Reserve. It has an area of 41.38 km².Valley settlements / Bases
HinterhornbachHinterhornbach
Hinterhornbach is a municipality in the Austrian district of Reutte, Tyrol....
is the valley settlement on the southern side (in the Tyrol, Austria). Hinterstein is the village on the northern side (in the Free State of Bavaria, Germany). The approach routes from the two valleys are very different. Hinterhornbach is located immediately at the foot of the Hochvogel, its summit – admittedly not its picturesque side (Schauseite) – can be seen from the village. By contrast, Hinterstein is relatively far down the valley. The Hochvogel cannot be seen from Hinterstein or its neighbouring valleys.
On the German side there is a climber's base, the Prinz Luitpold Haus, run by the German Alpine Club. This Alpine hut
Alpine hut
A mountain hut is a building located in the mountains intended to provide food and shelter to mountaineers, climbers and hikers. Mountain huts are usually operated by a section of an Alpine Club...
may be reached from Hinterstein on the road to the Giebelhaus by bus (it is closed to private vehicles), and then on the farm track to the Bärgündletal valley and on the Alpine Club path (Alpenvereinsweg) to the hut.
Climbing
An ascent of the Hochvogel is a climbing tour with a UIAA climbing gradeGrade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
of I. The normal route runs from the Prinz Luitpold Haus (1,846 m) in 2½ hours over the Balkenscharte saddle and the snowfield of the Kalter Winkel to the summit. In early summer, crampons or Grödeln (= light crampons) will be needed to negotiate the said snowfield. The Kalter Winkel can be circumvented by using a partially secured climb via the Kreuzspitze, which joins the route from the Prinz Luitpold Haus above the snowfield. The rather more challenging Bäumenheimer Weg runs from the south, starting at Hinterhornbach
Hinterhornbach
Hinterhornbach is a municipality in the Austrian district of Reutte, Tyrol....
in the Lechtal and takes 4½ hours to the top. The Bäumenheimer Weg can also be used in winter.
Starting at the Prinz Luitpold Haus, hikers can ascend on the normal path and descend over the Bäumenheimer Weg. At the foot of the Bäumenheimer Weg there is a linking path over the Fuchsen saddle, that leads back to the Prinz Luitpold Haus.
The out-of-print editions of the Alpine Club Guide
Alpine Club Guide
The Alpine Club Guides are the standard series of Alpine guides that cover all the important mountain groups in the Eastern Alps. They are produced jointly by the German , Austrian and South Tyrol Alpine Clubs...
s for the Allgäu Alps also show several climbing routes. These are:
- West pillar (Westpfeiler), UIAA gradeGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
IV+ - Southwest face (Südwestwand), grade III–IV
- Northeast face (Nordostwand), grade IV+–VI−
- North pillar (Nordpfeiler), grade III
- Hochvogel east shoulder, north face (Hochvogel-Ostschulter, Nordwand), grade IV+–VI
- Hochvogel east shoulder, southwest face (Hochvogel-Nordwestschulter, Südwestgrad), grade IV
- East-northeast arête (Ostnordostgrad), grade III
- Southeast face (Südostwand), grade IV–VI
The current 16th edition of the Alpine Club Guide
Alpine Club Guide
The Alpine Club Guides are the standard series of Alpine guides that cover all the important mountain groups in the Eastern Alps. They are produced jointly by the German , Austrian and South Tyrol Alpine Clubs...
only contains routes up to climbing grade II. This means that in the literature today only the two normal routes to the Hochvogel are described. In 2006, however, the Allgäu-Immenstadt DAV Section put forward a DAV hut guide for the Prinz Luitpold Haus that presents the four current climbing routes on the northern side of the Hochvogel on one photograph and describes and assesses them in the text.
In the era of sport climbing, the climbing routes on the Hochvogel, which involve brittle rock and a long approach march, are rarely used.
Views
The view from the top is vast and grandiose, encompassing many of the peaks in the Allgäu Alps as well as those in the neighbouring Lechtal Alps to the south. To the east, the view extends over other chains in the Northern Limestone Alps as far as the Wetterstein and Karwendel. To the south, a panorama of the central Alpine ridge opens up from the High Tauern across the Zillertal, Stubai and Ötztal Alps to the mountains of the Albula and the Silvretta. To the west, the Swiss Alps - the Alpstein (Säntis) and the Glarus Alps (Todi) can be seen. And, to the north, the view extends far beyond the Swabian Alps to the Black Forest and the Swabian Jura. The best views tend to occur in the autumn and winter rather than in spring and summer.Aircraft crash
On 14th December 1945 an American Flying Fortress (a four-engine bomber) crashed on the western flank of the Hochvogel. The aircraft came from Belgium and actually intended to land at the Lechfeld air base. The accident killed all six crew members. their remains could not be retrieved until months later because of their location on steep slopes and heavy snow.According to the United States Air Force
United States Air Force
The United States Air Force is the aerial warfare service branch of the United States Armed Forces and one of the American uniformed services. Initially part of the United States Army, the USAF was formed as a separate branch of the military on September 18, 1947 under the National Security Act of...
the accident was due to a navigation error when the aircraft flew into a snowstorm. The wreck of the machine was dismantled in the 1950s and carried away.
Sources and maps
- Alpenvereinsführer Allgäuer Alpen 9th edition 1974, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, ISBN 3-7633-1101-7, out of print;
- Alpenvereinsführer Allgäuer Alpen und Ammergauer Alpen alpin 16th edition 2004, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, ISBN 3-7633-1126-2;
- Alpenvereinskarte 2/2 Allgäuer-Lechtaler Alpen – Ost 1:25,000 7th edition 2002;
- Gipfelziele Allgäuer Alpen 1987, Bruckmann Verlag, ISBN 3-7654-2095-6, out of print
- Kristian Rath und Tobias Burger, Prinz-Luitpold-Haus DAV-Hüttenführer – Wandern, Klettern, Abenteuer rund um den Hochvogel, Kempten 2006, ISBN 3-9810320-2-0.
- Wanderführer Hinterhornbach. Natur- und kulturkundlicher Wanderführer von Gustav und Georg Dinger, hrsg. v. d. Sektion Donauwörth d. Deutschen Alpenvereins, Verlag Ludwig Auer, ISBN 978-3-9807169-6-3
- Hermann von Barth, Einsame Bergfahrten, Albert Langen Verlag Munich, o.J. (description of the above-mentioned summit crossing)