Dynamic rope
Encyclopedia
A dynamic rope is a specially constructed, stretchable rope. This 'stretch' is what makes it 'dynamic', in contrast to a static rope that doesn't have any give when under load. By stretching under load, a dynamic rope will soften the impact of extreme stresses on it, such as falls, and lessens the likelihood of failure. This is particularly useful in rock climbing
, where it can absorb much of the energy of a fall
(referred to as a whipper
amongst rock climbers). Kernmantle rope
s (with a jacketed core) are the most common type of dynamic rope, and nylon has replaced all natural materials since 1945 for durability and strength.
Dynamic ropes used for rock climbing come in a variety of lengths and diameters, with the most common lengths being 50, 55, and 60 meters (approximately 165, 185, and 200 feet, respectively). Lengths will vary depending on rope maintenance and age, and there are even ropes as long as 70 meters for specialized ascents on routes that would normally require a multi-pitch climbing
attempt due to being only slightly longer than a standard rope length.
Rope diameters are generally between 8.3mm and 11.5mm, with the different diameters used for slightly different purposes. Sport and multi-pitch climbers value thinner ropes because they are lighter, lessening rope drag and making clipping to the quickdraw
easier and, consequently, safer. Lighter, thinner ropes, however, have less strength than a thicker rope and will absorb fewer hard falls. Note that some belay devices are better suited for different rope diameters. This is particularly relevant with auto-belay devices, such as the Petzl Grigri
(which, for example, works best with a 10mm thick line) or the Faders SUM. Please make sure to read the instructions for your device carefully to ensure safety and recognize any limitations to rope diameter.
All modern rock climbing dynamic ropes are rated for the number of hard falls they can absorb safely before being retired. Thicker ropes generally have a higher rating (will absorb more falls) than a thinner diameter rope. The quality and construction of the rope will also determine the number of falls. Some climbers may find it desirable to receive a 'soft catch' during a hard fall and opt to use a stretchier, more dynamic rope, despite the possibility that such a rope will have a lower overall rating.
and don't require a great deal of maintenance. Ropes should however be inspected for cuts, abrasions, or frayed areas; any cut or fraying that passes into the core of the rope is cause for concern. Ropes can also be washed to clean them of any extensive dirt or grime.
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
, where it can absorb much of the energy of a fall
Fall arrest
Fall arrest is the form of fall protection which involves the safe stopping of a person already falling. It is one of several forms of fall protection, forms which also include fall guarding and fall restraint Fall arrest is the form of fall protection which involves the safe stopping of a person...
(referred to as a whipper
Whipper
In rock climbing, a whipper is an especially hard or dynamic fall where the rope is weighed by a significant load. A fall is considered hard when the climber falls beyond at least one piece of protection, which in trad climbing would mean the last placed cam or nut and in sport climbing would be...
amongst rock climbers). Kernmantle rope
Kernmantle rope
Kernmantle rope is rope constructed with its interior core protected with a woven exterior sheath that is designed to optimize strength, durability, and flexibility. The core fibers provide the tensile strength of the rope, while the sheath protects the core from abrasion during use...
s (with a jacketed core) are the most common type of dynamic rope, and nylon has replaced all natural materials since 1945 for durability and strength.
Dynamic ropes used for rock climbing come in a variety of lengths and diameters, with the most common lengths being 50, 55, and 60 meters (approximately 165, 185, and 200 feet, respectively). Lengths will vary depending on rope maintenance and age, and there are even ropes as long as 70 meters for specialized ascents on routes that would normally require a multi-pitch climbing
Multi-pitch climbing
Multi-pitch climbing is the ascent of climbing routes with one or more stops at a belay station. Each section of actual climbing between stops at the belay stations is called a pitch. The leader ascends the pitch, placing gear and stopping to anchor themselves to the belay station.The reason for...
attempt due to being only slightly longer than a standard rope length.
Rope diameters are generally between 8.3mm and 11.5mm, with the different diameters used for slightly different purposes. Sport and multi-pitch climbers value thinner ropes because they are lighter, lessening rope drag and making clipping to the quickdraw
Quickdraw
Quickdraws are used by rock climbers to connect the climbing rope to bolt anchors or other protection, while lead climbing...
easier and, consequently, safer. Lighter, thinner ropes, however, have less strength than a thicker rope and will absorb fewer hard falls. Note that some belay devices are better suited for different rope diameters. This is particularly relevant with auto-belay devices, such as the Petzl Grigri
Grigri (climbing)
A Grigri is a hand-sized belay device designed to help secure rock-climbing, rappelling, and rope-acrobatic activities. Its main characteristic is a clutch that self-locks under a shock load. Belayers using a Grigri need to pay full attention to their climber and exercise skillful operation to...
(which, for example, works best with a 10mm thick line) or the Faders SUM. Please make sure to read the instructions for your device carefully to ensure safety and recognize any limitations to rope diameter.
All modern rock climbing dynamic ropes are rated for the number of hard falls they can absorb safely before being retired. Thicker ropes generally have a higher rating (will absorb more falls) than a thinner diameter rope. The quality and construction of the rope will also determine the number of falls. Some climbers may find it desirable to receive a 'soft catch' during a hard fall and opt to use a stretchier, more dynamic rope, despite the possibility that such a rope will have a lower overall rating.
Rope care and maintenance
Modern ropes are made from nylonNylon
Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers known generically as polyamides, first produced on February 28, 1935, by Wallace Carothers at DuPont's research facility at the DuPont Experimental Station...
and don't require a great deal of maintenance. Ropes should however be inspected for cuts, abrasions, or frayed areas; any cut or fraying that passes into the core of the rope is cause for concern. Ropes can also be washed to clean them of any extensive dirt or grime.