Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
Encyclopedia
The Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4,112 m) is a mountain
of the Mont Blanc massif
in Italy
. It is considered the most difficult and serious of the alpine 4000-m mountains.
There are three tops to the mountain:
The three tops are named after Paul Güssfeldt
, Henry Seymour King
and Humphrey Owen Jones
.
(3,773 m) – the Aiguille Blanche forms part of the Peuterey ridge that leads, via the summit of the Grand Pilier d'Angle
, to the summit of Mont Blanc
. James Eccles
, with guides Alphonse and Michel Payot, made the first ascent of the upper part of the ridge during their first ascent of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
on 31 July 1877. The main ridge itself was first climbed via a couloir on the Brenva face by Paul Güssfeldt
with Emile Rey, Christian Klucker
and César Ollier on 15–19 August 1893 (the second ascent was a week later by Klucker and John Percy Farrar
). The first ascent of the complete ridge including the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (the Intégrale) was on 28–31 July 1934 by Adolf Göttner, Ludwig Schmaderer and Ferdinand Krobath.
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
of the Mont Blanc massif
Mont Blanc Massif
The Mont Blanc massif is a mountain range in the western Alps. It is named after Mont Blanc, at 4,810.45 m the highest summit of the Alps. It is located in France , Italy , and Switzerland...
in Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
. It is considered the most difficult and serious of the alpine 4000-m mountains.
There are three tops to the mountain:
- Pointe Güssfeldt (4,112 m)
- Pointe Seymour King (4,107 m)
- Pointe Jones (4,104 m)
The three tops are named after Paul Güssfeldt
Paul Güssfeldt
Dr Paul Güssfeldt was a German geologist, mountaineer and explorer.-Biography:Güssfeldt was born in Berlin, where he also died almost 80 years later...
, Henry Seymour King
Sir Henry King, 1st Baronet
Sir Henry Seymour King, 1st Baronet KCIE was an English banker, mountaineer and Conservative politician.King was born at Brighton, the son of Henry Samuel King. He was educated at Charterhouse School and Balliol College, Oxford, where he won an oratory gold medal. He joined his father in the...
and Humphrey Owen Jones
Humphrey Owen Jones
Humphrey Owen Jones was a Welsh chemist and mountaineer.-Life:Jones was born at Goginan, Cardiganshire, and educated at Lewis School, Pengam, and the University College of Wales, Aberystwyth. He subsequently studied natural sciences at Clare College, Cambridge, graduating BA in 1899 and MA in...
.
Ascents
The highest point, Pointe Güssfeldt, was first climbed by Henry Seymour King with guides Emile Rey, Ambros Supersaxo and Aloys Anthamatten on 31 July 1885.Peuterey ridge
Together with its neighbour – the Aiguille Noire de PeutereyAiguille Noire de Peuterey
The Aiguille Noire de Peuterey is a mountain of the Mont Blanc massif in Italy, forming part of the Peuterey ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc with its higher neighbour, the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey....
(3,773 m) – the Aiguille Blanche forms part of the Peuterey ridge that leads, via the summit of the Grand Pilier d'Angle
Grand Pilier d'Angle
The Grand Pilier d'Angle is a buttress on the southern side of Mont Blanc in the Mont Blanc massif in the Val d'Aosta, Italy.The first ascent from the valley was by James Eccles with guides Michel Payot and Alphonse Payot on 30 July 1877 during an ascent of the Peuterey ridge, although the summit...
, to the summit of Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco , meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps, Western Europe and the European Union. It rises above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence...
. James Eccles
James Eccles
James Eccles FGS was an English mountaineer and geologist who is noted for making a number of first ascents in the Alps during the silver age of alpinism.-Life:...
, with guides Alphonse and Michel Payot, made the first ascent of the upper part of the ridge during their first ascent of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
Mont Blanc de Courmayeur , in the Italian part of the Mont Blanc massif, is the second-highest peak in the Alps....
on 31 July 1877. The main ridge itself was first climbed via a couloir on the Brenva face by Paul Güssfeldt
Paul Güssfeldt
Dr Paul Güssfeldt was a German geologist, mountaineer and explorer.-Biography:Güssfeldt was born in Berlin, where he also died almost 80 years later...
with Emile Rey, Christian Klucker
Christian Klucker
Christian Klucker was a Swiss mountain guide who made many first ascents in the Alps, particularly in the Bernina Range, the Bregaglia and the Pennine Alps.Amongst his first ascents were:...
and César Ollier on 15–19 August 1893 (the second ascent was a week later by Klucker and John Percy Farrar
John Percy Farrar
Captain John Percy Farrar DSO , also known as Percy Farrar and as J. P. Farrar, was an English soldier and mountaineer. He was President of the Alpine Club from 1917 to 1919 and a member of the Mount Everest Committee.-Family:...
). The first ascent of the complete ridge including the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (the Intégrale) was on 28–31 July 1934 by Adolf Göttner, Ludwig Schmaderer and Ferdinand Krobath.