Uli Biaho
Encyclopedia
Uli Biaho is a peak near Trango Towers
Trango Towers
The Trango Towers are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier, in Baltistan, a district of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan . They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and...

 and Baltoro Glacier
Baltoro Glacier
The Baltoro Glacier, at 62 kilometers long, is one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions. It is located in Baltistan, in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan, and runs through part of the Karakoram mountain range. The Baltoro Muztagh lies to the north and east of the glacier, while...

 in the Northern Areas
Northern Areas
Gilgit-Baltistan , is the northernmost political entity within Pakistan. It borders Pakistan's Khyber Pukhtunkhwa province to the west, Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor to the north, China to the east and northeast, Azad Kashmir to the southwest, and Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir to the...

 of Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...

. It consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as 6109 m (20,058 feet)); and Uli Biaho Peak (Kopold: 6417 m), which as of 2006 was unclimbed.

Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by John Roskelley
John Roskelley
John Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...

 et al. All four USA climbers reached the summit on July 3, 1979. Roskelley included a chapter on Uli Biaho in his 1993 book Stories Off the Wall.

Notable ascents

  • 1979 - Uli Biaho Tower (19,957 feet) - East Face - VII F8 A4 (34 pitches). June 24 - July 5th, 1979 - John Roskelley
    John Roskelley
    John Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...

    , Kim Schimtz, Ron Kauk
    Ron Kauk
    Ron Kauk is an American rock climber and Yosemite Camp 4 regular.Kauk began spending summers in Yosemite in 1974. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Washington Column with John Long and John Bachar, renaming the route Astroman...

     and Bill Forrest.
  • 2006 - Uli Biaho Tower (20,058 feet or 6109 m) - Drastissima VI/6 ABO (Northwest Face). June 23 - June 25, 2006 - Gabo Cmarik and Jozef 'Dodo' Kopold (Slovakia).

See also

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