Twill
Twill is a type of fabric
woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads. Examples of twill fabric are chino,
gabardine, tweed and serge.
Twill, from a practical standpoint, is a warm weather material, less well suited for cold weather.
Harris Tweed is a luxury twill handwoven on the
Isle of Harris,
Outer Hebrides,
Scotland.
In a twill weave, each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line, or wale.
Encyclopedia
Twill is a type of fabric
woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads. Examples of twill fabric are chino,
gabardine, tweed and serge.
Twill, from a practical standpoint, is a warm weather material, less well suited for cold weather.
Harris Tweed is a luxury twill handwoven on the
Isle of Harris,
Outer Hebrides,
Scotland.
In a twill weave, each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line, or wale. A float is the portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more yarns from the opposite direction. A twill weave requires three or more harnesses, depending on its complexity. A twill weave is the second basic weave that can be made on the fairly simple loom.
Twill weave is often designated as a fraction-- such as 2/1-- in which the numerator indicates the number of harnesses that are raised, in this example, 2, and the denominator indicates the number of harnesses that are lowered when a filling yarn is inserted, in this example 1. The fraction 2/1 would be read as "two up, one down." The minimum number of harnesses needed to produce a twill can be determined by totaling the numbers in the fraction. For the example described, the number of harnesses is 3.
Characteristics of twill
Twill fabrics have a technical face and a technical back, unlike a plain weave in which a print or surface finish may create the technical face or "right" side. The technical side of a twill weave fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale. It is usually more durable, more attractive, and most often used as the fashion side of the fabric. The face is usually the side visible on the loom during weaving. If there are warp floats on the technical face, there will be filling floats on the technical back. If the twill wale goes up to the right on one side, it will go up to the left on the other side. Twill fabrics have no up and down as they are woven.
Sheer fabrics are seldom made with a twill weave. Because a twill surface has interesting texture and design, printed twills are much less common than printed plain weaves. When twills are printed, they are most likely to be lightweight fabrics. Soil shows less on the uneven surface of twills than it does on smooth surfaces, such as plain weaves. Thus, twills are often used for sturdy work clothing or durable upholstery because soils and stains are less noticeable on this fabric.
Fewer interlacings allow the yarns to move more freely. Fabrics are softer and more pliable and recover better from wrinkles as compared with plain-weave fabrics. When there are fewer interlacings, yarns can be packed closer togetherto produce high-count fabrics. If a plain-weave fabric and a twill-weave fabric have the same kind and number of yarns, the plain-weave fabric would be stronger because it has more interlacings. In twills and higher counts, the fabric is more durable and air- and water-resistant.
There are even-sided twills and warp-faced twills. Even-sided twills include foulard or surah, serge, twill flannel, sharkskin, herringbone, and houndstooth. Warp-faced twills include lining twill, denim, jean, drill, covert, chino, gabardine, cavalry twill, and fancy twill.
