Theatrical makeup
Encyclopedia
In the performing arts
, theatrical makeup is used to assist in creating the appearance of the characters
that actors portray.
, considered to be the first actor, used white lead and wine to paint his face. In medieval Europe, actors altered their appearances by painting their faces a different color. Performers who portrayed God painted their faces white or gold; actors playing angels painted their faces red. During the Renaissance
, actors were creative and resourceful when making-over their faces. They used lamb's wool for false beards and flour as face paint.
Advancements in stage lighting
technology required stage makeup to evolve beyond one over-all face color to a multidimensional craft. Originally, theatres used candles and oil lamps; these two sources of light were dim and allowed for crude, unrealistic makeup applications. Once gas lighting
, limelight
and electric light
were introduced to theatres, a need emerged for new makeup materials and more skillful application techniques. In 1873, Ludwig Leichner, a Wagnerian
opera singer, began commercially producing a non-toxic greasepaint stick, easing the application of makeup.
Understanding light's effect on makeup and various shades and pigments is important when designing a performer’s makeup. The following are among the basic rules of light: nothing has color until light is reflected from it; an object appears black when all of the light is absorbed; an object appears white when all of the light is reflected. If certain rays are absorbed and others are reflected, the reflected rays determine the color.
wipe or astringent
to remove the oil and allow a smooth application.
Skin has four basic tones: brown, fair, pink and olive. Individuals with fair, pink, and olive skin tones use olive, beige, or suntan bases. Makeup artist and performers select shades compatible with the natural skin tone, but the base is one to several shades deeper. Performers with predominately pink or ruddy complexions use base colors with cool undertones. The character, size of the theatre, and light intensity will determine the tone depth of the foundation.
A thin layer of base makeup is applied to the neck, ears, and face using a white rubber sponge or fingers. A heavy application of base appears aged and creepy.
Performing arts
The performing arts are those forms art which differ from the plastic arts insofar as the former uses the artist's own body, face, and presence as a medium, and the latter uses materials such as clay, metal or paint which can be molded or transformed to create some physical art object...
, theatrical makeup is used to assist in creating the appearance of the characters
Character (arts)
A character is the representation of a person in a narrative work of art . Derived from the ancient Greek word kharaktêr , the earliest use in English, in this sense, dates from the Restoration, although it became widely used after its appearance in Tom Jones in 1749. From this, the sense of...
that actors portray.
Background
In Greek and Roman theatre, makeup was unnecessary. Actors wore various masks, allowing them to portray another gender, age, or entirely different likeness. ThespisThespis
Thespis of Icaria , according to certain Ancient Greek sources and especially Aristotle, was the first person ever to appear on stage as an actor playing a character in a play...
, considered to be the first actor, used white lead and wine to paint his face. In medieval Europe, actors altered their appearances by painting their faces a different color. Performers who portrayed God painted their faces white or gold; actors playing angels painted their faces red. During the Renaissance
Renaissance
The Renaissance was a cultural movement that spanned roughly the 14th to the 17th century, beginning in Italy in the Late Middle Ages and later spreading to the rest of Europe. The term is also used more loosely to refer to the historical era, but since the changes of the Renaissance were not...
, actors were creative and resourceful when making-over their faces. They used lamb's wool for false beards and flour as face paint.
Advancements in stage lighting
Stage lighting
Modern stage lighting is a flexible tool in the production of theatre, dance, opera and other performance arts. Several different types of stage lighting instruments are used in the pursuit of the various principles or goals of lighting. Stage lighting has grown considerably in recent years...
technology required stage makeup to evolve beyond one over-all face color to a multidimensional craft. Originally, theatres used candles and oil lamps; these two sources of light were dim and allowed for crude, unrealistic makeup applications. Once gas lighting
Gas lighting
Gas lighting is production of artificial light from combustion of a gaseous fuel, including hydrogen, methane, carbon monoxide, propane, butane, acetylene, ethylene, or natural gas. Before electricity became sufficiently widespread and economical to allow for general public use, gas was the most...
, limelight
Limelight
Limelight is a type of stage lighting once used in theatres and music halls. An intense illumination is created when an oxyhydrogen flame is directed at a cylinder of quicklime , which can be heated to 2572 °C before melting. The light is produced by a combination of incandescence and...
and electric light
Electric light
Electric lights are a convenient and economic form of artificial lighting which provide increased comfort, safety and efficiency. Most electric lighting is powered by centrally-generated electric power, but lighting may also be powered by mobile or standby electric generators or battery systems...
were introduced to theatres, a need emerged for new makeup materials and more skillful application techniques. In 1873, Ludwig Leichner, a Wagnerian
Richard Wagner
Wilhelm Richard Wagner was a German composer, conductor, theatre director, philosopher, music theorist, poet, essayist and writer primarily known for his operas...
opera singer, began commercially producing a non-toxic greasepaint stick, easing the application of makeup.
Highlight and shadow
Through the use of makeup, specifically highlighting and shading, the apparent shape of an actor’s face can be changed. By highlighting the face's protruding bones, the features become pronounced; shadowing cavities can add depth. Sagging jowls, forehead wrinkles, eye pouches, and prominent veins can be created by manipulating highlights and shadows. A highlight is a base makeup that is at least two shades lighter than the base. It is applied on the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, and areas under the eyes and below the brows. Using a color two shades deeper than the base provides depth and definition. This depth is commonly used on the eye sockets, to thin the sides of the nose, to shallow the cheeks, and to minimize heaviness under the chin.Makeup and lighting
Lighting controls makeup to a high degree. Makeup can lose its effectiveness due to incorrect stage lighting. Conversely, skillful lighting can greatly aid the art of makeup. Close communication between the lighting director and the makeup artist is crucial for the best possible effect.Understanding light's effect on makeup and various shades and pigments is important when designing a performer’s makeup. The following are among the basic rules of light: nothing has color until light is reflected from it; an object appears black when all of the light is absorbed; an object appears white when all of the light is reflected. If certain rays are absorbed and others are reflected, the reflected rays determine the color.
Light's effect on makeup
- Pink tends to gray the cool colors and intensify the warm ones. Yellow becomes more orange.
- Flesh pink flatters most makeup.
- Fire red ruins makeup. All but the darker flesh tones virtually disappear. Light and medium rouge fade into the foundation, whereas the dark red rouges turn a reddish brown. Yellow becomes orange, and the cool shading colors become shades of gray and black.
- Bastard amber is flattering because it picks up the warm pinks and flesh tones in the makeup.
- Amber and orange intensify and yellow most flesh colors. They turn rouges more orange. Cool colors are grayed.
- Green grays all flesh tones and rouges in proportion to its intensity. Green will be intensified. Yellow and blue will become greener.
- Light blue-green lowers the intensity of the base colors. One should generally use very little rouge under this type of light.
- Green-blue washes out pale flesh tones, and will gray medium and deep flesh tones, as well as all reds.
- Blues gray most flesh tones and cause them to appear more red or purple.
- Violet causes orange, flame, and scarlet to become redder. Rouge appears more intense.
- Purple affects makeup like violet lighting, except reds and oranges will be even more intense, and most blues will look violet.
Straight makeup
Straight makeup is a style of makeup that provides a natural, clean and healthy glow.Skin
If a performer’s skin is perfectly toned, makeup spreads smoothly and adheres easily. Dry skin or oily skin is dealt with prior to makeup application; otherwise, the makeup appears blotchy or smeared due to variations in absorption. Performers with dry skin use a moisturizer daily and after their faces have been cleansed following a performance. Performers with oily complexions use a facial tonerToner (skin care)
In cosmetics, skin toner or simply toner refers to a lotion or wash designed to cleanse the skin and shrink the appearance of pores, usually used on the face. Toners can be applied to the skin in different ways:* On damp cotton wool...
wipe or astringent
Astringent
An astringent substance is a chemical compound that tends to shrink or constrict body tissues, usually locally after topical medicinal application. The word "astringent" derives from Latin adstringere, meaning "to bind fast"...
to remove the oil and allow a smooth application.
Skin has four basic tones: brown, fair, pink and olive. Individuals with fair, pink, and olive skin tones use olive, beige, or suntan bases. Makeup artist and performers select shades compatible with the natural skin tone, but the base is one to several shades deeper. Performers with predominately pink or ruddy complexions use base colors with cool undertones. The character, size of the theatre, and light intensity will determine the tone depth of the foundation.
A thin layer of base makeup is applied to the neck, ears, and face using a white rubber sponge or fingers. A heavy application of base appears aged and creepy.