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St. Johns River
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The St. Johns River (officially Saint Johns River, but commonly spelled St.
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The St. Johns River (officially Saint Johns River, but commonly spelled St. John's River) is the longest river in the U.S. state of Florida, stretching 310 miles (500 km) from Indian River County to the Atlantic Ocean in Jacksonville in Duval County. The Saint Johns is north-flowing, which is somewhat unusual among U.S. rivers
The elevation change from headwaters to mouth is only about 30 feet, making the St. Johns one of the world's "laziest" rivers. Extremely low velocity and low volume of flow, combined with the generally level elevation, cause the St. Johns to spread out to a great width for much of its course. During periods of low flow, the river can be influenced by tides as far south as Lake Monroe - 161 miles inland. For a distance of over twenty miles before arriving at downtown Jacksonville, the river's average width exceeds two miles and some points exceed three miles in width. The slow flow of the St. Johns makes it difficult for pollutants to be flushed from the waters, which has become a serious problem for the river ecosystem. It was designated as one of the American Heritage Rivers in 1997 and pegged by an environmental organization as the 6th Most Endangered River in America in 2008. Still, the river is home to numerous species of plants and animals. It is not uncommon to see dolphins in the river east of Jacksonville and manatees in the springtime when the water warms up. Alligators, bald eagles, ospreys, stingrays, and many species of fish—both salt and fresh water—are found living in the river and on its banks. The entire basin is managed by the St. Johns Water Management District.
History
Geological evidence suggests thousands of years ago the area that now comprises the river was connected to the Atlantic Ocean for most, if not all, of its length, making the river nothing more than an extended system of lagoons and tributaries. As the ocean levels dropped, barrier islands and reef formations effectively walled off the system of lagoons from the ocean, forming the river. This unusual geologic past explains why a river of this size arose with such little drop in elevation from source to mouth (30 feet over 310 miles).
The river basin was the home to the native Timucua tribes, who called it Welaka, or "river of lakes". In the early 16th century, Spanish explorers called the river Río de Corrientes, or "river of currents".
An expedition of French Huguenots landed at the mouth of the river on May 1, 1562, and thus called it Rivière du Mai, or River of May. In 1564, a bluff overlooking this site (St. Johns Bluff) became the location of Fort Caroline, the first French colony in North America, and one of the first European-established settlements in what is now the continental United States. This fort was captured by the Spanish from St. Augustine a little over a year after it was founded.
The conquering Spanish renamed the river (and the fort) "San Mateo", after Saint Matthew, whose feast day was the day after their victory over the French. A Catholic mission named San Juan del Puerto was founded on Fort George Island near the river's mouth around 1578, and in time the river came to be known as "Río de San Juan". This was translated St. Johns River in English, and this name has remained intact through colonization, war, and the creation of the United States.
During the American Civil War, control of the river was decided at the Battle of Saint John's Bluff, enabling the Union Army to firmly establish control over Jacksonville.
Geography
The upper (southern) basin of the river has indistinct banks, with numerous sloughs and lagoons, often pooling into ponds and lakes. Some of the larger lakes are Blue Cypress Lake, Lake Hellen Blazes, Sawgrass Lake, Lake Washington, Lake Winder, Lake Poinsett, Ruth Lake, Puzzle Lake, Lake Harney, Lake Jesup and Lake Monroe.
The river is joined by the Econlockhatchee River and runs between higher bluffs on either side, forming the middle basin. This part of the river runs through what is now the Ocala National Forest. After the English acquisition of Florida from Spain in 1762, English explorer John Bartram was sent by King George III to explore the territory from 1765-1766. His son William Bartram returned in 1774 and in his subsequent book Travels, William Bartram called the middle basin a "...blessed land where the gods have amassed into one heap all the flowering plants, birds, fish and other wildlife of two continents in order to turn the rushing streams, the silent lake shores and the awe-abiding woodlands of this mysterious land into a true garden of Eden." Here the river forms the broad and shallow Lake George, where marine sharks have been seen in drought years in which the normally rain-fed freshwaters of the river cannot fight back the inflowing Atlantic salt water.
The lower (northern) basin begins where the largest tributary of the St. Johns, the Ocklawaha River, joins the flow. (Both rivers are part of the modern Caravelle Ranch Wildlife Management Area.) It passes through Palatka, then through unspoiled riverine bottomland hardwoods, pine flatwoods and sandhill communities, on its way to Jacksonville.
Past Green Cove Springs, the river becomes an estuary, where fresh and salt water meet, and a wide diversity of living species inhabit the islands, inlets, sounds, streams and marshes of the area.
Tributaries
Starting at the river's mouth and moving upstream, major tributaries of the St. Johns River include Pottsburg Creek, Pablo Creek, the Trout River, the Arlington River, the Ortega River, Doctors Lake, Julington Creek, Black Creek, the Cross Florida Barge Canal, the Oklawaha River, the Wekiwa River, Lake Jessup, and the Econlockhatchee River. Fort Drum Creek drains into the St. Johns Marsh, the source of the river.
Fishing
The St. Johns is known for excellent fishing, especially largemouth bass. Its estuarial nature provides both freshwater and saltwater or brackish-water species. Saltwater species include redfish, flounder, tarpon, and the brackish water sea trout, known locally as the "gator trout". A recent report states that saltwater species have been venturing farther up the river (southwards) in recent years.
Some of the best known fishing occurs in January–March, when the American shad run up the river, and it becomes full of trolling boats. The shad, like the salmon, are anadromous and live most of their life at sea. They are caught primarily for the eggs, shad roe, since the flesh is full of small bones.
Port city of Jacksonville
As the St. Johns River flows through the city of Jacksonville it is spanned by seven bridges. The Jacksonville Port Authority (JAXPORT) facilities at the mouth of the St. Johns River make up Florida's second largest port. In fiscal year 2008, JAXPORT handled more than 1,800 ships, delivering almost 700,000 containers and more than 650,000 cars. Some of the major local commodities include gypsum and oil.
The United States Navy maintains Naval Air Station Jacksonville on the river bank south of downtown Jacksonville and Naval Station Mayport near the river's mouth.
Wildlife gallery
See also
External links
- Photo-documentary journey on the St. Johns River
- Controversial initiative to remove 250 million gallons of water per day from the St. Johns River
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