Provence

Provence

Discussion
Ask a question about 'Provence'
Start a new discussion about 'Provence'
Answer questions from other users
Full Discussion Forum
 
Encyclopedia
{{Other uses}} {{distinguish|Province}} {{Use dmy dates|date=May 2011}} [[File:County of Provence.png|thumb|300px|Location of the [[Provinces of France|former French province]] of Provence.]] [[File:Provence topographic map-fr.svg|thumb|right|300px|The modern region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur in southeast France]] [[File:Moustiers Sainte Marie 1.jpg|thumb|[[Moustiers-Sainte-Marie]], in Upper Provence]] [[File:Provence street.jpg|thumb|upright|Typical Provençal country road lined with [[Platanus|plane trees]]]] '''Provence''' ({{IPA-fr|pʁɔvɑ̃s}} (pro-VAWNCE); Provençal: ''Provença'' in classical norm or ''Prouvènço'' in Mistralian norm) is a region of south eastern [[France]] on the [[Mediterranean]] adjacent to Italy. It is part of the administrative ''[[regions of France|région]]'' of [[Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur]]. The traditional region of Provence comprises the ''départements'' of [[Var (department)|Var]], [[Vaucluse]], [[Bouches-du-Rhône]], [[Alpes-de-Haute-Provence]], [[Alpes-Maritimes]] and parts of [[Hautes-Alpes]]. The [[Ancient Rome|Romans]] formed this region into their [[Gallia Transalpina]], the first Roman provincia outside the Alps. From thus, it derives its name today. === Prehistoric Provence === [[File:Calanque de Morgiou.jpg|thumb|The entrance to the [[Cosquer Cave]], decorated with paintings of penguins, bison, seals and outlines of hands dating to 27,000 to 19,000 BC, is located 37 meters under the surface of the [[Calanque de Morgiou]] near [[Cassis]].]] [[File:Celtic Stone in Draguignan - Provence - France.JPG|thumb|A bronze-age dolmen (2500 to 900 BC) near [[Draguignan]]]] The coast of Provence has some the earliest known sites of human habitation in Europe. Primitive stone tools dated to 1 to 1.05 million years BC were found in the [[Grotte du Vallonnet]] near [[Roquebrune-Cap-Martin]], between [[Monaco]] and [[Menton]]. More sophisticated tools, worked on both sides of the stone and dating to 600,000 BC, were found in the Cave of Escale at Saint Estėve-Janson, and tools from 400,000 BC and some of the first fireplaces in Europe were found at [[Terra Amata]] in Nice. Tools dating to the [[Middle Paleolithic]] (300,000 BC) and [[Upper Paleolithic]] (30,000–10,000 BC) were discovered in the Observatory Cave, in the Jardin Exotique of [[Monaco]]. The Paleolithic period in Provence saw great changes in the climate, with the arrival and departure of two ice ages, and dramatic changes in the sea level. At the beginning of the paleolithic period, the sea level in western Provence was 150 meters higher than it is today. By the end of the paleolithic, it had dropped 100 to 150 metres lower than today's sea level. The cave dwellings of the early inhabitants of Provence were regularly inundated by the rising sea or left far from the sea and swept away by erosion. The changes in the sea level led to one of the most remarkable discoveries of signs of early man in Provence. In 1985, a diver named Henri Cosquer discovered the mouth of a submarine cave 37 metres below the surface of the [[Calanque de Morgiou]] near Marseille. The entrance led to a cave above sea level. Inside, the walls of the [[Cosquer Cave]] are decorated with drawings of bison, seals, penguins, horses and outlines of human hands, dating to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC. The end of the Paleolithic and beginning of the [[Neolithic]] period saw the sea settle at its present level, a warming of the climate and the retreat of the forests. The disappearance of the forests and the deer and other easily-hunted game meant that the inhabitants of Provence had to survive on rabbits, snails and wild sheep. In about 6000 BC, the Castelnovian people, living around [[Châteauneuf-les-Martigues]], were among the first people in Europe to domesticate wild sheep, and to cease moving constantly from place to place. Since they were settled in one place. they were able to develop new industries. Inspired by the imported pottery from the eastern Mediterranean, in about 6000 BC they created the first pottery to be made in France. Around 6000 BC, a wave of new settlers from the east, the Chasseens, arrived in Provence. They were farmers and warriors, and gradually displaced the earlier pastoral people from their lands. They were followed in about 2500 BC by another wave of people, also farmers, known as the Courronniens, who arrived by sea and settled along the coast of what is now the Bouches-de-Rhone department. Traces of these early civilizations can be found in many parts of Provence. A Neolithic site dating to about 6,000 BC was discovered in Marseille near the [[Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles|Saint-Charles railway station]]. and a [[Dolmen]] from the [[Bronze Age]] (2500–900 BC) can be found near [[Draguignan]]. === Ligures and Celts in Provence === Between the 10th and 4th century BC the [[Ligures]] were found in Provence from [[Massilia]] till modernday [[Liguria]]. They were of uncertain origin; they may have been the descendants of the indigenous neolithic peoples. Strabo distinctly states they were '''not''' of celtic origin and a different race from the Gauls. They did not have their own alphabet, but their language remains in place names in Provence ending in the suffixes -''asc'', -''osc''. -''inc'', -''ates'', and ''auni''. The ancient geographer Posidonios wrote of them: "Their country is savage and dry. The soil is so rocky that you cannot plant anything without striking stones. The men compensate for the lack of wheat by hunting... They climb the mountains like goats." They were also warlike; they invaded Italy and went as far as Rome in the 4th century BC, and they later aided the passage of [[Hannibal]], on his way to attack Rome (218 BC). Traces of the Ligures remain today in the [[dolmens]] and other megaliths found in eastern Provence, in the primitive stone shelters called 'Bories' found in the [[Luberon]] and [[Comtat]], and in the rock carvings in the [[Vallée des Merveilles|Valley of Marvels]] near [[Mont Bégo]] in the Alpes-Maritimes, at an altitude of 2,000 meters. Between the 8th and 5th centuries BC, tribes of Celtic peoples, probably coming from Central Europe, also began moving into Provence. They had weapons made of iron, which allowed them to easily defeat the local tribes, who were still armed with bronze weapons. One tribe, called the Segobriga, settled near modern-day Marseille. The Caturiges, Tricastins, and Cavares settled to the west of the [[Durance]] river. [[Celts]] and Ligurians lived widely widespread in Provence and the Celto-Ligures eventually shared the territory of Provence, each tribe in its own alpine valley or settlement along a river, each with its own king and dynasty. They built hilltop forts and settlements, later given the Latin name ''oppida''. Today the traces 165 ''oppida'' are found in the Var, and as many as 285 in the Alpes-Maritimes. They worshipped various aspects of nature, establishing sacred woods at Sainte-Baume and Gemenos, and healing springs at Glanum and Vernėègues. Later, in the 5th and 4th centuries BC, the different tribes formed confederations; the Voconces in the from the [[Isère]] to the [[Vaucluse]]; the Cavares in the Comtat; and the Salyens, from the [[Rhone]] river to the Var. The tribes began to trade their local products, iron, silver, alabaster, marble, gold, resin, wax, honey and cheese; with their neighbors, first by trading routes along the Rhone river, and later [[Etruscan civilization|Etruscan]] traders visited the coast. Etruscan [[amphorae]] from the 7th and 6th centuries BC have been found in Marseille, Cassis, and in hilltop oppida in the region. === The Greeks in Provence === [[File:Marseille Ancient Harbor.JPG|thumb|Remains of the ancient harbor of [[Massalia]], near the Old Port of Marseille]] Traders from the island of Rhodes were visiting the coast of Provence in the 7th century BC. Rhodes pottery from that century has been found in [[Marseille]], near [[Martigues]] and Istres, and at Mont Garou and Evenos near [[Toulon]]. The traders from Rhodes gave their names to the ancient town of Rhodanousia (now [[Trinquetaille]], across the Rhone river from Arles), and to the main river of Provence, the Rhodanos, today known as the Rhone. The first permanent Greek settlement was Massalia, established at modern-day [[Marseille]] in about 600 BC by colonists coming from [[Phocaea]] (now [[Foça]], in modern Turkey) on the [[Aegean Sea|Aegean]] coast of [[Asia Minor]]. A second wave of colonists arrived in about 540 BC, when Phocaea was destroyed by the [[Persian Empire|Persians]]. Massalia became one of the major trading ports of the ancient world. At its height, in the 4th century BC, it had a population of about 6,000 inhabitants, living on about fifty hectares surrounded by a wall. It was governed as an aristocratic republic, by an assembly of the 600 wealthiest citizens. It had a large temple of the cult of [[Apollo]] of Delphi on a hilltop overlooking the port, and a temple of the cult of [[Artemis]] of Ephesus at the other end of the city. The Drachma coins minted in Massalia were found in all parts of Ligurian-Celtic Gaul. Traders from Massalia They ventured inland deep into France on the Rivers [[Durance]] and Rhone, and established overland trade routes deep into Gaul, and to Switzerland and Burgundy, and as far north as the Baltic Sea. They exported their own products; local wine, salted pork and fish, aromatic and medicinal plants, coral and cork. The Massalians also established a series of small colonies and trading posts along the coast; which later became towns; they founded ''Citharista'' ([[La Ciotat]]); ''Tauroeis'' (Le Brusc); ''Olbia'' (near [[Hyeres]]); ''Pergantion'' (Breganson); ''Caccabaria'' ([[Cavalaire]]); ''Athenopolis'' ([[Saint-Tropez]]); ''Antipolis'' ([[Antibes]]); ''Nikaia'' ([[Nice]]), and ''Monoicos'' ([[Monaco]]). They established inland towns at ''Glanum'' ([[Saint-Rémy-de-Provence|Saint-Remy]]) and ''Mastrabala'' ([[Saint-Blaise, Alpes-Maritimes|Saint-Blaise]].) The most famous citizen of Massalia was the mathematician, astronomer and navigator [[Pytheas]]. Pytheas made a gnomen, which allowed him to establish almost exactly the latitude of Marseille, and he was the first to explain the origin of the tides. Between 330 and 320 BC he organized an expedition by ship into the Atlantic and as far north as England, and to visit [[Iceland]], [[Shetland]], and [[Norway]]. Though he hoped to establish a sea trading route for tin from [[Cornwall]], his trip was not a commercial success, and it was not repeated. The Massalians found it cheaper and simpler to trade with Northern Europe over land routes. === Roman Provence (2nd century BC to 5th century AD) === [[File:Pont du gard.jpg|thumb|[[Pont du Gard]], first century BC]] [[File:Arlesarena.jpg|right|thumb|The Roman arena at [[Arles]] (2nd century AD)]] [[File:Frejus Cathedral Baptistery.jpg|thumb|upright|The [[baptistery]] of [[Fréjus Cathedral]] (5th century) is still in use]] In the 2nd century BC the people of Massalia appealed to Rome for help against the Ligures. Roman legions entered Provence three times; first in 181 BC the Romans suppressed Ligurian uprisings near Genoa; in 154 BC the Roman Consul Optimus defeated the [[Oxybii]] and the [[Deciates]], who were attacking Antibes; and in 125 BC, the Romans put down an uprising of a confederation of Celtic tribes. After this battle, the Romans decided to establish permanent settlements in Provence. In 122 BC, next to the Celtic town of Entremont, the Romans built a new town, Aquae Sextiae, later called [[Aix-en-Provence]]. In 118 BC they founded [[Narbonne]]. The Roman general [[Gaius Marius]] crushed the last serious resistance in 102 BC by defeating the [[Cimbri]] and the [[Teutons]]. He then began building roads to facilitate troop movements and commerce between Rome, Spain and Northern Europe; one from the coast inland to [[Apt, Vaucluse|Apt]] and [[Tarascon]], and the other along the coast from Italy to Spain, passing through [[Fréjus]] and Aix-en-Provence. In 49 BC, Massalia had the misfortune to choose the wrong side in the power struggle between [[Pompey]] and [[Julius Caesar]]. Pompey was defeated, and Massalia lost its territories and political influence. Roman veterans, in the meantime, populated two new towns, Arles and Fréjus, at the sites of older Greek settlements. In 8 BC the Emperor [[Augustus]] built a triumphal monument at [[La Turbie]] to commemorate the pacification of the region, and he began to Romanize Provence politically and culturally. Roman engineers and architects built monuments, theaters, baths, villas, fora, arenas and [[aqueduct]]s, many of which still exist. (See [[Architecture of Provence]].) Roman towns were built at [[Cavaillon]]; [[Orange, Vaucluse|Orange]]; [[Arles]]; [[Fréjus]]; [[Glanum]] (outside [[Saint-Rémy-de-Provence]]); [[Carpentras]]; [[Vaison-la-Romaine]]; [[Nîmes]]; [[Vernègues]]; [[Saint-Chamas]] and [[Cimiez]] (above Nice). The Roman province, which was called [[Gallia Narbonensis]], for its capital, Narbo (modern Narbonne), extended from Italy to Spain, from the [[Alps]] to the [[Pyrenees]]. The [[Pax Romana]] in Provence lasted until the middle of the 3rd century. [[Germanic peoples|Germanic]] tribes invaded Provence in 257 and 275. At the beginning the 4th century, the court of Roman Emperor Constantine (280–337) was forced to take refuge in Arles. By the end of the 5th century, Roman power in Provence had vanished, and an age of invasions, wars, and chaos began. === The arrival of Christianity in Provence (3rd–6th centuries) === There are many legends about the earliest Christians in Provence, but they are difficult to verify. It is documented that there were organized churches and bishops in the Roman towns of Provence as early as the 3rd and 4th centuries; in [[Arles]] in 254; [[Marseille]] in 314; [[Orange, Vaucluse|Orange]], [[Vaison]] and [[Apt, Vaucluse|Apt]] in 314; [[Cavaillon]], [[Digne]], [[Embrun, Hautes-Alpes|Embrun]], [[Gap, Hautes-Alpes|Gap]], and [[Fréjus]] at the end of the 4th century; [[Aix-en-Provence]] in 408; [[Carpentras]], [[Avignon]], [[Riez]], [[Cimiez]] (today part of [[Nice]]) and [[Vence]] in 439; [[Antibes]] in 442; [[Toulon]] in 451; [[Senez]] in 406, [[Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux]] in 517; and [[Glandèves]] in 541. The oldest Christian structure still surviving in Provence is the baptistery of the cathedral in Fréjus, dating from the 5th century. At about the same time, in the 5th century, the first two monasteries in Provence were founded; [[Lérins Abbey|Lérins]], on an island near Cannes; and [[St. Victor's Abbey, Marseille|Saint-Victor]] in Marseille. === Germanic invasions, Merovingians and Carolingians (5th–9th centuries) === [[File:King Boson of Provence.JPG|thumb|[[Boso of Provence|King Boson]] and [[List of protomartyrs|San Stephen]] (fragment of fresco at [[Charlieu Abbey]])]] [[File:Ramon Berenguer III.jpg|thumb|upright|The Catalan [[Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona|Ramon Berenguer I]], Count of Provence]] [[File:Provence Arms.png|thumb|left|upright|The Coat of Arms of [[Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona]] and his descendants, who as Counts of Provence ruled Provence from 1112 until 1246]] [[File:Blason province fr Provence.svg‎|upright|left|thumb|Coat of Arms of the Counts of Provence of the [[House of Valois-Anjou]], who ruled Provence from 1246 until it became part of France in 1486]] Beginning in the second half of the 5th century, as Roman power waned, successive waves of Germanic tribes entered Provence; first the [[Visigoths]] (480); then the [[Ostrogoths]]; then the [[Burgundians]]; finally, the [[Franks]] in the 6th century. [[Arab]] invaders and [[Berber people|Berber]] pirates came from North Africa to the Coast of Provence in the beginning of the 7th century. During this chaotic period, Provence was ruled by Frankish kings of [[Merovingian dynasty]], then [[Carolingian]] Kings, descended from Charles Martel; and then was part of the empire of [[Charlemagne]] (742–814). In 879, after the death of the Carolingian ruler [[Charles the Bald]], [[Boso of Provence]], (also known as Boson), his brother-in-law, broke away from the Carolingian kingdom of [[Louis the Younger|Louis III]] and was elected the first ruler of an independent state of Provence. === The Counts of Provence (9th–13th centuries) === Three different dynasties of Counts ruled Provence during the Middle Ages, and Provence became a prize in the complex rivalries between the [[Catalan people|Catalan]] rulers of [[Barcelona]], the [[Kings of Burgundy]], the German rulers of the [[Holy Roman Empire]], and the [[House of Valois-Anjou|Angevin]] Kings of France.{{Clarify|date=March 2010}} The '''[[Bosonids]]''' (879–1112) were the descendants of the first King of Provence, Boson. His son, [[Louis the Blind]] (890–928) lost his sight trying to win the throne of Italy, after which his cousin, [[Hugh of Italy]] (died 947) became the Duke of Provence and the Count of Vienne. Hugh moved the capital of Provence from Vienne to Arles and made Provence a [[fief]] of [[Rudolph II of Burgundy]]. In the 9th century, Arab pirates (called [[Saracens]] by the French) and then the [[Normans]] invaded Provence. The Normans pillaged the region and then left, but the Saracens built castles and began raiding towns and holding local residents for ransom. Early in 973, the Saracens captured Maieul, the [[Abbot]] of the Monastery at [[Abbey of Cluny|Cluny]], and held him for ransom. The ransom was paid and the abbot was released, but the people of Provence, led by [[William I of Provence|Count William I]] rose up and defeated the Saracens near their most powerful fortress [[Fraxinet]] ([[La Garde-Freinet]]) at the [[Battle of Tourtour]]. The Saracens who were not killed at the battle were baptized and made into slaves, and the remaining Saracens in Provence fled the region. Meanwhile, the dynastic quarrels continued. A war between Rudolph III of [[Burgundy (region)|Burgundy]] and his rival, the German Emperor [[Conrad the Salic]] in 1032 led to Provence becoming a [[fiefdom]] of the [[Holy Roman Empire]], which it remained until 1246. In 1112, the last descendant of Boson, [[Douce I, Countess of Provence]], married the Catalan [[Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona]], who as a result became Raymond Berenguer I, Count of Provence. He ruled Provence from 1112 until 1131, and his descendants, the '''Catalan Dynasty''' ruled Provence until 1246. In 1125, Provence was divided; the part of Provence north and west of the [[Durance]] river went to the [[Count of Toulouse]], while the lands between the Durance and the Mediterranean, and from the Rhone river to the Alps, belonged to the Counts of Provence. The capital of Provence was moved from Arles to Aix-en-Provence, and later to [[Brignoles]]. [[File:Arles kirche st trophime fassade.jpg|thumb|upright|The Church of [[Saint-Trophime d'Arles|Saint Trophime]] in [[Arles]] (12th century)]] Under the Catalan dynasty, the 12th century saw the construction of important [[cathedrals]] and [[abbeys]] in Provence, in a harmonious new style, the romanesque, which united the [[Gallo-Roman]] style of the Rhone Valley with the [[Lombardy|Lombard]] style of the Alps. [[Aix Cathedral]] was built on the site of the old Roman forum, and then rebuilt in the [[Gothic architecture|gothic]] style in the 13th and 14th centuries. The [[Church of St. Trophime]] in Arles was a landmark of [[Romanesque architecture]], built between the 12th and the 15th centuries. A vast fortress-like monastery, [[Montmajour Abbey]], was built on an island just north of Arles, and became a major destination for medieval pilgrims. In the 12th century three [[Cistercian]] monasteries were built in remote parts of Provence, far from the political intrigues of the cities. [[Sénanque Abbey]] was the first, established in the Luberon 1148 and 1178. [[Le Thoronet Abbey]] was founded in a remote valley near [[Draguignan]] in 1160. [[Silvacane Abbey]], on the Durance river at [[La Roque-d'Anthéron]], was founded in 1175. In the 13th century, the French kings from the House of Valois started to use marriage to extend their influence into the south of France. One son of King [[Louis VIII of France]] "the Lion", [[Alfonso, Count of Poitou|Alphonse, Count of Poitou]], married the heiress of the Count of Toulouse, [[Joan, Countess of Toulouse|Joan]]. Another, [[Louis IX|Louis IX "the Saint" of France]] or Saint Louis (1214–1270), married [[Marguerite of Provence]]. Then, in 1246, [[Charles I of Naples|Charles, Count of Anjou]], the youngest son of Louis VIII, married the heiress of Provence, [[Beatrice of Provence|Beatrice]]. Provence's fortunes became tied to the [[Capetian House of Anjou|Angevin Dynasty]] and the Kingdom of Naples. === The Popes in Avignon (14th century) === {{main|Avignon papacy}} [[File:Façade du Palais des Papes.jpg|thumb|left|The façade of the [[Palais des Papes]].]] In 1309, [[Pope Clement V]], who was originally from Bordeaux, moved the Roman Catholic [[Papacy]] to Avignon. From 1309 until 1377, seven Popes reigned in Avignon before the [[Western Schism|Schism]] between the Roman and Avignon churches, which led to the creation of rival popes in both places. After that three [[Antipopes]] reigned in Avignon until 1423, when the Papacy finally returned to Rome. Between 1334 and 1363 Popes [[Benedict XII]] built the old Papal Palace of Avignon, and [[Clement VI]] built the New Palace; together the [[Palais des Papes]] was the largest gothic palace in Europe. The 14th century was a terrible time in Provence, and all of Europe: the population of Provence had been about 400,000 people; the [[Black Plague]] (1348–1350) killed fifteen thousand people in Arles, half the population of the city, and greatly reduced the population of the whole region. The defeat of the French Army during the [[Hundred Years' War]] forced the cities of Provence to build walls and towers to defend themselves against armies of former soldiers who ravaged the countryside. The Angevin rulers of Provence also had a difficult time. An assembly of nobles, religious leaders, and town leaders of Provence was organized to resist the authority of Queen [[Joan I of Naples]] (1343–1382.) She was murdered in 1382 by her cousin and heir, [[Charles III of Naples|Charles of Durazzo]], who started a new war, leading to the separation of [[Nice]], [[Puget-Théniers]] and [[Barcelonnette]] from Provence in 1388, and their attachment to the territories of [[Savoy]]. From 1388 up to 1526, the name of this new area acquired by the House of Savoy at the expense of the rest of Provence was ''Terres Neuves de Provence''. After 1526 it took officially the name of ''County of Nice''. === Good King René, the last ruler of Provence === [[File:Nicolas Froment 004.jpg|thumb|upright|Detail of the ''Burning Bush'' [[triptych]] by [[Nicolas Froment]], showing [[René of Anjou|René]] and his wife [[Jeanne de Laval]]]] [[File:Tarascon Le Chateau.jpg|thumb|The Chateau of René in [[Tarascon]] (15th century)]] The 15th century saw a series of wars between the Kings of [[Crown of Aragon|Aragon]] and the Counts of Provence. In 1423 the army of Alphonse of Aragon captured Marseille, and in 1443 they captured Naples, and forced its ruler, King [[René I of Naples]], to flee. He eventually settled in one of his remaining territories, Provence. History and legend has given René the title "Good King René of Provence", though he only lived in Provence in the last ten years of his life, from 1470 to 1480, and his political policies of territorial expansion were costly and unsuccessful. Provence benefitted from population growth and economic expansion, and René was a generous patron of the arts, sponsoring painters [[Nicolas Froment]], [[Louis Bréa]], and other masters. He also completed one of the finest castles in Provence at [[Tarascon]], on the Rhone river. When René died in 1480, his title passed to his nephew [[Charles IV, Duke of Anjou|Charles du Maine]]. One year later, in 1481, when Charles died, the title passed to [[Louis XI of France]]. Provence was legally incorporated into the French royal domain in 1486. === 1486 to 1789 === Soon after Provence became part of France, it became involved in the [[French Wars of Religion|Wars of Religion]] that swept the country in the 16th century. Between 1493 and 1501, many Jews were expelled from their homes and sought sanctuary in the region of Avignon, which was still under the direct rule of the Pope. In 1545, the [[Parliament of Aix]] ordered the destruction of the villages of Lourmarin, Mérindol, Cabriéres in the Luberon, because their inhabitants were [[Waldensians|Vaudois]], of Italian [[Piedmontese]] origin, and were not considered sufficiently orthodox Catholics. Most of Provence remained strongly Catholic, with only one enclave of Protestants, the principality of [[Orange, Vaucluse]], an enclave ruled by Prince William of the [[House of Orange-Nassau]] of the Netherlands, which was created in 1544 and was not incorporated into France until 1673. An army of the [[Catholic League (French)|Catholic League]] laid siege to the Protestant city of Mėnerbes in the [[Vaucluse]] between 1573 and 1578. The wars did not stop until the end of the 16th century, with the consolidation of power in Provence by the [[House of Bourbon]] kings. [[File:Vernet-toulon-1.jpg|thumb|View of Toulon Harbour around 1750, by [[Joseph Vernet]].]] The semi-independent Parliament of Provence in Aix and some of the cities of Provence, particularly Marseille, continued to rebel against the authority of the Bourbon king. After uprisings in 1630–31 and 1648–1652, the young King [[Louis XIV]] had two large forts, fort St. Jean and Fort St. Nicholas, built at the harbor entrance to control the city's unruly population. At the beginning of the 16th century, [[Cardinal Richelieu]] began to build a naval arsenal and dockyard at Toulon to serve as a base for a new French Mediterreanean fleet. The base was greatly enlarged by [[Jean-Baptiste Colbert]], the minister of Louis XIV, who also commissioned his chief military engineer [[Vauban]] to strengthen the fortifications around the city. At the beginning of the 17th century Provence had a population of about 450,000 people. It was predominantly rural, devoted to raising wheat, wine, and olives, with small industries for tanning, pottery, perfume-making, and ship and boat building. [[Provençal quilts]], made from the mid-17th century onwards, were successfully exported to England, Spain, Italy, Germany and [[Holland]]. There was considerable commerce along the coast, and up and down the Rhone river. The cities: Marseille, [[Toulon]], Avignon and Aix-en-Provence, saw the construction of boulevards and richly-decorated private houses. [[File:Vernet-marseille-1754.jpg|thumb|left|Marseille in 1754, by Vernet]] At the beginning of the 18th century Provence suffered from the economic malaise of the end of the reign of Louis XIV. The plague struck the region between 1720 and 1722, beginning in Marseille, killing some 40,000 people. Still, by the end of the century, many artisinal industries began to flourish; making [[perfumes]] in [[Grasse]]; olive oil in Aix and the [[Alpilles]]; textiles in Orange, Avignon and Tarascon; and [[faience]] pottery in Marseille, Apt, [[Aubagne]], and [[Moustiers-Sainte-Marie]]. Many immigrants arrived from Liguria and the Piedmont in Italy. By the end of the 18th century, Marseille had a population of 120,000 people, making it the third largest city in France. === During the French Revolution === {{French Revolution}} {{Main|French Revolution}} Though most of Provence, with the exception of Marseille, Aix and Avignon, was rural, conservative and largely royalist, it did produce some memorable figures in the [[French Revolution]]; [[Honoré Gabriel Riqueti, comte de Mirabeau]] from Aix, who tried to moderate the Revolution, and turn France into a [[constitutional monarchy]] like England; the [[Marquis de Sade]] from Lacoste in the Luberon, who was a Deputy from the far left in the National Assembly; [[Charles Barbaroux]] from Marseille, who sent a battalion of volunteers to Paris to fight in the [[French Revolutionary Army]]; and [[Emmanuel-Joseph Sieyès]] (1748–1836), an abbé, essayist and political leader, who was one of the chief theorists of the French Revolution, [[French Consulate]], and First French Empire, and who, in 1799, was the instigator of the coup d'état of 18 Brumaire, which brought [[Napoleon]] to power. [[File:Marche-des-marseillois.jpg|thumb|left|[[La Marseillaise]] 1792]] Provence also produced the most memorable song of the period, the [[La Marseillaise]]. Though the song was originally written by a citizen of [[Strasbourg]], [[Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle]] in 1792, and it was originally a war song for the revolutionary Army of the Rhine, it became famous when it sung on the streets of Paris by the volunteers from Marseille, who had heard it when it was sung in Marseille by a young volunteer from [[Montpellier]] named François Mireur. It became the most popular song of the Revolution, and in 1879 became the national anthem of France. The Revolution was as violent and bloody in Provence as it was in other parts of France. On 30 April 1790, Fort Saint-Nicolas in Marseille was besieged, and many of the soldiers inside were massacred. On 17 October 1791 a massacre of royalists and religious figures took place in the ice storage rooms (''glaciere'') of the prison of the Palace of the Popes in Avignon. When the radical [[Montagnard (French Revolution)|Montagnard]]s seized power from the [[Girondins]] in May 1793, a real counter-revolution broke out in Avignon, Marseille and Toulon. A revolutionary army under [[Jean François Carteaux|General Carteaux]] recaptured Marseille in August 1793 and renamed it "City without a Name" (''Ville sans Nom''.) In Toulon, the opponents of the Revolution handed the city to a British and Spanish fleet on 28 August 1793. A Revolutionary Army laid siege to the British positions for four months (see the [[Siege of Toulon]]), and finally, thanks to the enterprise of the young commander of artillery, [[Napoleon Bonaparte]], defeated the British and drove them out in December 1793. About 15,000 royalists escaped with the British fleet, but five to eight hundred of the 7,000 who remained were shot on the Champ de Mars, and Toulon was renamed "Port la Montagne". The fall of the Montagnards in July 1794 was followed by a new [[White Terror]] aimed at the revolutionaries. Calm was only restored by the rise of Napoleon to power in 1795. === Under Napoleon I === Napoleon restored the belongings and power of the families of the old regime in Provence. The British fleet of Admiral [[Horatio Nelson]] blockaded Toulon, and almost all maritime commerce was stopped, causing hardship and poverty. When Napoleon was defeated, his fall was celebrated in Provence. When he escaped from [[Elba]] on 1 March 1815, and landed at [[Golfe-Juan]], he detoured to avoid the cities of Provence, which were hostile to him.{{Citation needed|date=March 2009}} === 19th century === [[File:Marseille port c1825.jpg|thumb|[[Marseille]] in 1825]] Provence enjoyed prosperity in the 19th century; the ports of Marseille and Toulon connected Provence with the expanding [[French colonial empire|French Empire]] in North Africa and the Orient, especially after the opening of the [[Suez Canal]] in 1869. In April–July 1859, [[Napoleon III]] made a secret agreement with [[Count Camillo Benso di Cavour|Cavour]], Prime Minister of [[Piedmont]], for France to assist in expelling Austria from the [[Italian Peninsula]] and bringing about a united Italy, in exchange for Piedmont ceding [[Savoy]] and the [[Nice]] region to France. He went to war with Austria in 1859 and won a victory at [[Solferino]], which resulted in Austria ceding [[Lombardy]] to Piedmont, and, in return, Napoleon received Savoy and Nice in 1860, and [[Roquebrune-Cap-Martin]] and [[Menton]] in 1861. The railroad connected Paris with Marseille (1848) and then with Toulon and Nice (1864). Nice, [[Antibes]] and Hyeres became popular winter resorts for European royalty, including [[Queen Victoria]]. Under Napoleon III, Marseille grew to a population of 250,000, including a very large Italian community. Toulon had a population of 80,000. The large cities like Marseille and Toulon saw the building of churches, opera houses, grand boulevards, and parks. After the fall of Louis Napoleon following the defeat in the [[Franco-Prussian War]] barricades went up in the streets of Marseille (23 March 1871) and the Communards, led by Gaston Cremieux and following the lead of the [[Paris Commune]], took control of the city. The Commune was crushed by the army and Cremieux was executed on 30 November 1871. Though Provence was generally conservative, it often elected reformist leaders; Prime Minister [[Léon Gambetta]] was the son of a Marseille grocer, and future prime minister [[Georges Clemenceau]] was elected deputy from the Var in 1885. The second half of the 19th century saw a revival of the [[Provençal language]] and culture, particularly traditional rural values. driven by a movement of writers and poets called the Felibrige, led by poet [[Frédéric Mistral]]. Mistral achieved literary success with his novel ''Miréio'' (''Mireille'' in French); he was awarded the [[Nobel Prize]] for literature in 1904. === 20th century === Between World War I and World War II, Provence was bitterly divided between the more conservative rural areas and the more radical big cities. There were widespread strikes in Marseille in 1919, and riots in Toulon in 1935. After the defeat of France by Germany in June 1940, France was divided into an occupied zone and unoccupied zone, with Provence in the unoccupied zone. Parts of eastern Provence were occupied by Italian soldiers. Collaboration and passive resistance gradually gave way to more active resistance, particularly after Nazi Germany invaded the Soviet Union in June 1941 and the Communist Party became active in the resistance. [[Jean Moulin]], the deputy of [[Charles de Gaulle]], the leader of the Free France resistance movement, was parachuted into [[Eygalières]], in the [[Bouches-du-Rhône]] on 2 January 1942 to unite the diverse resistance movements in all of France against the Germans. In November 1942, following Allied landings in North Africa ([[Operation Torch]]), the Germans occupied all of Provence ([[Operation Attila (World War II)|Operation Attila]]) and then headed for Toulon ([[Case Anton]]). The French fleet at Toulon sabotaged its own ships to keep them from falling into German hands. [[File:Seconde-guerre-mondiale-dragoon-cavalaire-15aout1944.jpg|thumb|[[U.S. 3rd Infantry Division]] landing at [[Cavalaire-sur-Mer]]]] The Germans began a systematic rounding-up of French Jews and refugees from Nice and Marseille. Many thousands were taken to concentration camps, and few survived. A large quarter around the port of Marseille was emptied of inhabitants and dynamited, so it would not serve as a base for the resistance. Nonetheless, the resistance grew stronger; the leader of the pro-German militia, the Milice, in Marseille was assassinated in April 1943. On 15 August 1944, two months after the Allied landings in Normandy ([[Operation Overlord]]), the [[Seventh United States Army]] under General [[Alexander Patch]], with a [[Free French]] corps under General [[Jean de Lattre de Tassigny]], landed on the coast of the Var between [[Saint-Raphaël, Var|St. Raphael]] and [[Cavalaire]] ([[Operation Dragoon]]). The American forces moved north toward [[Manosque]], [[Sisteron]] and [[Gap, Hautes-Alpes|Gap]], while the French First Armored Division under General Vigier liberated Brignoles, Salon, Arles, and Avignon. The Germans in Toulon resisted until 27 August, and Marseille was not liberated until 25 August. After the end of the War, Provence faced an enormous task of repair and reconstruction, particularly of the ports and railroads destroyed during the war. As part of this effort, the first modern concrete apartment block, the [[Unité d'Habitation]] of [[Corbusier]], was built in Marseille in 1947–52. In 1962, Provence absorbed a large number of French citizens who left Algeria after its independence. Since that time, large North African communities settled in and around the big cities, particularly Marseille and Toulon. In the 1940s, Provence underwent a cultural renewal, with the founding of the [[Avignon Festival]] of theatre (1947), the reopening of the [[Cannes Film Festival]] (begun in 1939), and many other major events. With the building of new highways, particularly the Paris Marseille autoroute which opened in 1970, Provence became destination for mass tourism from all over Europe. Many Europeans, particularly from Britain, bought summer houses in Provence. The arrival of the [[TGV]] high-speed trains shortened the trip from Paris to Marseille to less than four hours. At the end of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st century, the residents of Provence were struggling to reconcile economic development and population growth with their desire to preserve the landscape and culture that make Provence unique. == Extent and geography == [[File:Map Gallia Tribes Towns.png|thumb|The Roman Province of [[Gallia Narbonensis]] around 58 BC]] [[File:France XVe siècle.jpg|thumb|Provence and France in 1461.]] The original Roman province was called Gallia Transalpina, then [[Gallia Narbonensis]], or simply ''Provincia Nostra'' ('Our Province') or ''Provincia''. It extended from the [[Alps]] to the [[Pyrenees]] and north to the [[Vaucluse]], with its capital in Narbo Martius (present-day [[Narbonne]]). In the 15th century the Conté of Provence was bounded by the [[Var (river)|Var]] river on the east, the Rhone river to the west, with the Mediterranean to the south, and a northern border that roughly followed the [[Durance]] river. === Rivers === The Rhone river, on the western border of Provence, is one of the major rivers of France, and has been a highway of commerce and communications between inland France and the Mediterranean for centuries. It rises as the effluent of the [[Rhône Glacier]] in [[Valais]], Switzerland, in the [[Saint-Gotthard massif]], at an altitude of 1753 m. It is joined by the river [[Saône]] at Lyon. Along the Rhône Valley, it is joined on the right bank by [[Cévennes]] rivers [[Eyrieux]], Ardèche, [[Cèze]] and [[Gardon]] or [[Gard]], on the left Alps bank by rivers [[Isère]], Drôme, [[Ouvèze]] and Durance. [[File:France Avignon Total 1.jpg|thumb|left|The [[Rhone]] at Avignon]] At Arles, the Rhône divides itself in two arms, forming the [[Camargue]] delta, with all branches flowing into the Mediterranean Sea. One arm is called the "Grand Rhône"; the other one is the "Petit Rhône". [[File:Grand Canyon du Verdon.JPG|thumb|The [[Verdon Gorge|Gorge du Verdon]].]] The Durance river, a tributary of the Rhône, has its source in the Alps near [[Briançon]]. It flows south-west through [[Embrun, Hautes-Alpes|Embrun]], Sisteron, [[Manosque]], [[Cavaillon]], and Avignon, where it meets the Rhône. The [[Verdon River]] is a tributary of the Durance, rising at an altitude of 2,400 metres in the southwestern Alps near Barcelonette, and flowing southwest for 175 kilometres through the [[Alpes-de-Haute-Provence]] and [[Var (department)|Var]] (départements) before it reaches the Durance at near [[Vinon-sur-Verdon]], south of [[Manosque]]. The Verdon is best known for its [[canyon]], the [[Verdon Gorge]]. This limestone canyon, also called the 'Grand Canyon of Verdon', 20 kilometres in length and more than 300 metres deep, is a popular climbing and sight-seeing area. The [[Var River]] rises near the Col de la Cayolle (2,326 m/7,631 ft) in the [[Maritime Alps]] and flows generally southeast for {{convert|120|km|sp=fr}} into the Mediterranean between Nice and [[Saint-Laurent-du-Var]]. Before Nice was returned to France in 1860, the Var marked the eastern border of France along the Mediterranean. The Var is the unique case in France of a river giving a name to a department, but not flowing through that department (due to subsequent adjustments to the department's boundaries). === The Camargue === [[File:Camargueflamingos.jpg|thumb|[[greater flamingo|Flamingos]] in the [[Camargue]].]] With an area of over 930 km² (360 mi²), the [[Camargue]] is Western Europe's largest river delta (technically an island, as it is wholly surrounded by water). It is a vast plain comprising large [[brine]] lagoons or ''étangs'', cut off from the sea by sandbars and encircled by [[Phragmites|reed]]-covered [[marsh]]es which are in turn surrounded by a large cultivated area. The Camargue is home to more than 400 species of birds, the brine ponds providing one of the few European habitats for the [[greater flamingo]]. The marshes are also a prime habitat for many species of insects, notably (and notoriously) some of the most ferocious [[mosquitoe]]s to be found anywhere in France. It is also famous for bulls and the [[Camargue (horse)|Camargue horse]]. === Mountains === [[File:Vallon de Mollières 2004 07.jpg|thumb|left|Vallon de Mollières, [[Mercantour National Park]].]] If the [[Maritime Alps]], along the border with Italy, are considered part of Provence, they are the highest peaks in the region (the [[Punta dell'Argentera]] has an elevation of 3,297 m). They form the border between the French ''[[département in France|département]]'' [[Alpes-Maritimes]] and the Italian [[province of Cuneo]]. [[Mercantour National Park]] is located in the Maritime Alps. [[File:Mont ventoux from mirabel.jpg|thumb|View of Mont Ventoux from [[Mirabel-aux-Baronnies]].]] Outside of the Maritime Alps, [[Mont Ventoux]] (Occitan: Ventor in classical norm or Ventour in Mistralian norm), at {{convert|1909|m|sigfig=4|sp=fr}}, is the highest peak in Provence. It is located some 20 km north-east of Carpentras, Vaucluse. On the north side, the mountain borders the Drôme département. It is nicknamed the "Giant of Provence", or "The Bald Mountain". Although geologically part of the [[Alps]], is often considered to be separate from them, due to the lack of mountains of a similar height nearby. It stands alone to the west of the [[Luberon]] range, and just to the east of the [[Dentelles de Montmirail]], its foothills. The top of the mountain is bare limestone without vegetation or trees. The white limestone on the mountain's barren peak means it appears from a distance to be snow-capped all year round (its snow cover actually lasts from December to April). [[File:Alpilles landscape.jpg|thumb|[[Alpilles]] landscape near Le Destet.]] The [[Alpilles]] are a chain of small mountains located about {{convert|20|km|sp=fr}} south of Avignon. Although they are not particularly high – only some {{convert|387|m|sp=fr}} at their highest point – the Alpilles stand out since they rise abruptly from the plain of the [[Rhône]] valley. The range is about 25 km long by about 8 to 10 km wide, running in an east-west direction between the Rhône and Durance rivers. The landscape of the Alpilles is one of arid [[limestone]] peaks separated by dry valleys. [[File:Paul Cézanne 107.jpg|thumb|''[[Mont Sainte-Victoire (Cézanne)|Mont Sainte-Victoire]]'', painted by Paul Cézanne]] [[Montagne Sainte-Victoire]] is probably the best-known mountain in Provence, thanks to the painter Paul Cézanne, who could see it from his home, and painted it frequently. It is a [[limestone]] mountain ridge which extends over 18 kilometres between the [[Départements of France|départements]] of [[Bouches-du-Rhône]] and [[Var (département)|Var]]. Its highest point is the ''Pic des mouches'' at 1,011 m. [[File:Massif-des-Maures-3.JPG|thumb|The massif des Maures]] The ''Massif des Maures'' (Mountains of the Moors) is a small chain of mountains that lies along the coast of the Mediterranean in the Var Department between [[Hyères]] et [[Fréjus]]. Its highest point is the signal de la Sauvette, 780 metres high. The name is a souvenir of the [[Moors]] (''Maures'' in Old French), [[Arabs]] and [[Berber people|Berbers]] from North Africa, who settled on the coast of Provence in the 9th and 10th centuries. The massif des Maures extends about sixty kilometres along the coast, and reaches inland about thirty kilometres. On the north it is bordered by a depression which is followed by the routes nationales 97 and 7 and the railroad line between Toulon and Nice. On the south it ends abruptly at the Mediterraenan, forming a broken and abrupt coastline. The peninsula of [[Saint-Tropez]] is part of the Massif des Maures, along with the peninsula of Giens and the islands offshore of [[Îles d'Hyères|Hyères]]; [[Porquerolles]], Port-Cros, and [[île du Levant]]. Cape Sicié, west of Toulon, as well as the massif of [[Tanneron]], belong geologically to the massif des Maures. === The Calanques === [[File:Calanques2.jpg|thumb|upright||left|[[Calanque]] de Sugiton]] The [[Calanques]], also known as the [[Massif des Calanques]], are a dramatic feature of the Provence coast, a 20-km long series of narrow inlets in the cliffs of the coastline between [[Marseille]] on the west and [[Cassis, Bouches-du-Rhône|Cassis]] on the east. The highest peak in the massif is [[Mont Puget]], 565 metres high. The best known calanques of the Massif des Calanques include the [[Calanque de Sormiou]], the [[Calanque de Morgiou]], the Calanque d'En-Vau, the Calanque de Port-Pin and the [[Calanque de Sugiton]]. Calanques are remains of ancient river mouths formed mostly during Tertiary. Later, during quaternary glaciations, as glaciers swept by, they further deepened those valleys which would eventually (at the end of the last glaciation) be invaded with sea and become calanques. [[File:Garrigue 2007-09-20.JPG|thumb|The [[Garrigue]], typical landscape of Provence]] The [[Cosquer cave]] is an underwater grotto in the Calanque de Morgiou, {{convert|37|m|sp=fr}} underwater, that was inhabited during [[Paleolithic]] era, when the sea level was much lower than today. Its walls are covered with paintings and engravings dating back to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC, depicting animals such as bison, ibex, and horses, as well as sea mammals such as seals, and at least one bird, the auk. === Landscapes === The [[Garrigue]] is the typical landscape of Provence; is a type of low, soft-leaved [[scrubland]] or [[chaparral]] found on limestone soils around the [[Mediterranean Basin]], generally near the seacoast, where the climate is moderate, but where there are annual summer [[Drought|drought conditions]]. [[Juniper]] and stunted [[holm oak]]s are the typical trees; aromatic lime-tolerant shrubs such as [[lavender]], [[Salvia officinalis|sage]], [[rosemary]], [[wild thyme]] and ''[[Artemisia (plant)|Artemisia]]'' are common garrigue plants. The open landscape of the garrigue is punctuated by dense thickets of [[Kermes oak]]. == Climate == [[File:Mistral sur le Frioul.JPG|right|thumb|Mistral wind blowing near Marseille. In the center is the [[Château d'If]]]] [[File:Sisteron August2007 2.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Sisteron]] – la Baume rock]] [[File:Forcalquier 1.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Forcalquier Cathedral]]]] Most of Provence has a [[Mediterranean climate]], characterized by hot, dry summers, mild winters, little snow, and abundant sunshine. Within Provence there are micro-climates and local variations, ranging from the Alpine climate inland from Nice to the continental climate in the northern [[Vaucluse]]. The [[winds of Provence]] are an important feature of the climate, particularly the [[Mistral (wind)|mistral]], a cold, dry wind which, especially in the winter, blows down the Rhone Valley to the [[Bouches-du-Rhône]] and the [[Var (department)|Var]] Departments, and often reaches over one hundred kilometres an hour. === Bouches-du-Rhône === [[Marseille]], in the [[Bouches-du-Rhône]], has an average of 59 days of rain a year, though when it does rain the rain is often torrential; the average annual rainfall is 544.4 mm. It snows an average of 2.3 days a year, and the snow rarely remains long. Marseille has an average of 2835.5 hours of sunshine a year. The average minimum temperature in January is 2.3 °C., and the average maximum temperature in July is 29.3 °C. The mistral blows an average of one hundred days a year. === The Var === Toulon and the Department of the [[Var (department)|Var]] (which includes [[St. Tropez]] and [[Hyeres]]) have a climate slightly warmer, dryer and sunnier than Nice and the Alpes-Maritime, but also less sheltered from the wind. Toulon has an average of 2899.3 hours of sunshine a year, making it the sunniest city in metropolitan France, The average maximum daily temperature in August is 29.1 °C., and the average daily minimum temperature in January is 5.8 °C. The average annual rainfall is 665 mm, with the most rain from October to November. Strong winds blow an average of 118 days a year in Toulon, compared with 76 days at Fréjus further east. The strongest Mistral wind recorded in Toulon was 130 kilometres an hour. === Alpes-Maritimes === Nice and the [[Alpes-Maritimes]] Department are sheltered by the [[Alps]], and are the most protected part of the Mediterranean coast. The winds in this department are usually gentle, blowing from the sea to the land, though sometimes the Mistral blows strongly from the northwest, or, turned by the mountains, from the east. In 1956 a mistral wind from the northwest reached the speed of 180 kilometres an hour at Nice airport. Sometimes in summer the scirocco brings high temperatures and reddish desert sand from Africa. (See [[Winds of Provence]].) Rainfall is infrequent – 63 days a year, but can be torrential, particularly in September, when storms and rain are caused by the difference between the colder air inland and the warm Mediterranean water temperature (20–24 degrees C.). The average annual rainfall in Nice is 767 mm, more than in Paris, but concentrated in fewer days. Snow is extremely rare, usually falling once every ten years. 1956 was a very exceptional year, when 20 centimetres of snow blanketed the coast. In January 1985 the coast between Cannes and Menton received 30 to 40 centimetres of snow. In the mountains, the snow is present from November to May Nice has an annual average of 2694 hours of sunshine. The average maximum daily temperature in Nice in August is 28 °C., and the average minimum daily temperature in January is 6 °C. === Alpes-de-Haute-Provence === The Department of [[Alpes-de-Haute-Provence]] has a Mediterranean climate in the lower valleys under one thousand metres in altitude and an [[alpine climate]] in the high valleys, such as the valleys of the Blanche, the Haut Verdon and the [[Ubaye Valley|Ubaye]], which are over 2500 metres high. The alpine climate in the higher mountains is moderated by the warmer air from the Mediterranean. Haute-Provence has unusually high summer temperatures for its altitude and latitude ([[44th parallel north|44 degrees north]]). The average summer temperature is 22 to 23 °C. at an altitude of 400 metres, and 18 to 19 °C. at the altitude of 1000 metres; and the winter average temperature is 4 to 5 °C. at 400 metres and 0 C. at 1000 metres. The lower valleys have 50 days of freezing temperatures a year, more in the higher valleys. Sometimes the temperatures in the high valleys can reach −30 °C. Because of this combination of high mountains and Mediterreanean air, it is not unusual that the region frequently has some of the lowest winter temperatures and some of the hottest summer temperatures in France. Rainfall is Haute-Provence is infrequent – 60 to 80 days a year – but can be torrential; 650 to 900 mm. a year in the foothills and plateaus of the southwest, and in the valley of the Ubaye; and 900 to 1500 mm. in the mountains. Most rainfall comes in the autumn, in brief and intense storms; from mid-June to mid-August, rain falls during brief but violent thunderstorms. Thunder can be heard 30 to 40 days a year. Snow falls in the mountains from November to May, and in midwinter can be found down to altitude of 1000–1200 metres on the shady side of the mountains and 1300 to 1600 metres on the sunny side. Snowfalls are usually fairly light, and melt rapidly. The [[Mistral (wind)]] is a feature of the climate in the western part of the Department, blowing from the north and the northwest, bringing clear and dry weather. The eastern part of the department is more protected from the Mistral. The [[Marin (wind)]] comes from the south, bringing warm air, clouds and rain. Haute-Provence is one of the sunniest regions of France, with an average of between 2550 and 2650 hours of sunshine annually in the north of the department, and 2700 to 2800 hours in the southwest. The clear nights and sunny days cause a sharp difference between nighttime and daytime temperatures. Because of the clear nights, the region is home of important observatories, such as the [[Observatory of Haute-Provence]] in Saint-Michel-Observatoire near of [[Forcalquier]]. === The Vaucluse === The [[Vaucluse]] is the meeting point of three of the four different climatic zones of France; it has a [[Mediterranean climate]] in the south, an [[alpine climate]] in the northeast, around the mountains of Vaucluse and the massif of the [[Baronnies]]; and a [[continental climate]] in the northwest. The close proximity of these three different climates tends to moderate all of them, and the Mediterranean climate usually prevails. [[Orange, Vaucluse|Orange]] in the Vaucluse has 2595 hours of sunshine a year. It rains an average of 80 days a year, for a total of 693.4 mm a year. The maximum average temperature in July is 29.6 °C., and the average minimum temperature in January is 1.3 °C. There are an average of 110 days of strong winds a year. == Language and literature == {{main|Occitan language|Occitan literature}} [[File:Raimbaut de Vaqueiras.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Raimbaut de Vaqueiras]], from a collection of troubadour songs, ''BNF Richelieu Manuscrits Français 854'', ''Bibliothèque Nationale Française'', Paris.]] Historically the language spoken in Provence was Provençal, a dialect of the Occitan language, also known as langue d'oc, and closely related to [[Catalan language|Catalan]]. There are several regional variations: [[vivaro-alpin]], spoken in the Alps; and the [[provençal]] variations of south, including the maritime, the rhoadanien (in the Rhone Valley) and the [[niçois]] (in Nice). Niçois is the archaic form of provençal closest to the original language of the [[troubadours]], and is sometimes to said to be literary language of its own. Provençal was widely spoken in Provence until the beginning of the 20th century, when the French government launched an intensive and largely successful effort to replace regional languages with French. Today Provençal is taught in schools and universities in the region, but is spoken regularly by a small number of people, probably less than five hundred thousand, mostly elderly. === Writers and poets in the Occitan language === [[File:Folquet de Marseilla.jpg|thumb|upright|"Folquet de Marselha" in a 13th-century [[chansonnier]]. Depicted in his episcopal robes]] The golden age of [[Provençal literature]], more correctly called [[Occitan literature]], was the 11th century and the 12th century, when the [[troubadours]] broke away from classical [[Latin literature]] and composed romances and love songs in their own vernacular language. Among the most famous troubadours was [[Folquet de Marselha]], whose love songs became famous all over Europe, and who was praised by [[Dante]] in his ''Divine Comedy''. In his later years, Folquet gave up poetry to become the Abbot of [[Le Thoronet Abbey]], and then [[Bishop of Toulouse]], where he fiercely persecuted the [[Cathars]]. In the middle of the 19th century there was a literary movement to revive the language, called the ''[[Félibrige]]'', led by the poet [[Frédéric Mistral]] (1830–1914), who shared the [[Nobel Prize]] for Literature in 1904. Provençal writers and poets who wrote in Occitan include: *[[Raimbaut de Vaqueiras]] (1180–1207) *[[Louis Bellaud]] (1543–1588) *[[Théodore Aubanel]] (1829–1886) *[[Joseph d'Arbaud]] (1874–1950) *[[Robert Lafont]] (1923–2009) === French authors === [[File:Alphonse Daudet.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Alphonse Daudet]]]] [[File:SidonieGabrielleColette.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Colette]]]] *[[Alphonse Daudet]] (1840–1897) was the best-known French writer from Provence in the 19th century, though he lived mostly in Paris and [[Champrosay]]. He was best known for his ''Lettres de mon moulin'' (eng: Letters from my Mill) (1869) and the ''Tartarin de Tarascon'' trilogy (1872, 1885, 1890). His story ''[[L'Arlésienne (novel and play)|L'Arlésienne]]'' (1872) was made into a three-act play with music by [[Bizet]]. *[[Marcel Pagnol]] (1895–1970), born in Aubagne, is known both as a filmmaker and for his stories of his childhood, ''Le Château de la Mere'', ''La Gloire de mon Pere'', and ''Le Temps des secrets''. He was the first filmmaker to become a member of the [[Académie française]] in 1946. *[[Colette]] (Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette) (1873–1954), although she was not from Provence, became particularly attached to [[Saint-Tropez]]. After World War II, she headed a committee which saw that the village, badly-damaged by the war, was restored to its original beauty and character *[[Jean Giono]] (1895–1970), born in [[Manosque]], wrote about peasant life in Provence, inspired by his imagination and by his vision of [[Ancient Greece]]. *[[Paul Arène]] (1843–1896), born in [[Sisteron]], wrote about life and the countryside around his home town. === Emigrés, exiles, and expatriates === [[File:F. Scott Fitzgerald, 1921.png|thumb|upright|[[F. Scott Fitzgerald]] in 1921]] In the 19th and 20th centuries, the climate and lifestyle of Provence attracted writers almost as much as it attracted painters. It was particularly popular among British, American and Russian writers in the 1920s and 1930s,. *[[Edith Wharton]] (1862–1937), bought [[Castel Sainte-Claire]] in 1927, on the site of a former convent in the hills above [[Hyères]], where she lived during the winters and springs until her death in 1937. *[[F. Scott Fitzgerald]] (1896–1940) and his wife Zelda first visited the Riviera in 1924, stopping at [[Hyères]], [[Cannes]] and [[Monte Carlo]], eventually staying at [[Saint-Raphaël, Var|St. Raphaël]], where he wrote much of ''The Great Gatsby'' and began ''Tender is the Night''. *[[Ivan Bunin]] (1870–1953), the first Russian writer to win the [[Nobel Prize for Literature]], went to France after the Russian Revolution, set several of his short stories on the [[French Riviera|Côte d'Azur]], and had a house in [[Grasse]]. *[[Somerset Maugham]] (1874–1965) bought a house, the Villa Mauresque, in [[Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat]] in 1928, and, except for the years of World War II, spent much of his time there until his death. Other English-speaking writers who live in or have written about Provence include: *[[Peter Mayle]] *[[Carol Drinkwater]] *[[John Lanchester]] *[[Willa Cather]] == Music == Music written about Provence includes: *The saxophone concerto ''Tableaux de Provence'' (Pictures of Provence) composed by Paule Maurice. * The opera ''[[Mireille (opera)|Mireille]]'' by [[Charles Gounod]] after Frédéric Mistral's poem [[Mireio]]. * [[Georges Bizet]], 'L'Arlésienne' incidental music to play by Alphonse Daudet. * [[Darius Milhaud]], 'Suite Provençale' == Painters == [[File:Frejus Cathedral Cloister Ceiling.jpg|thumb|The 14th-century ceiling of the cloister of Fréjus Cathedral is decorated with paintings of animals, people and [[mythical creature]]s]] [[File:Nicolas Froment 003.jpg|thumb|upright|''[[Triptych]] of the Burning Bush'', by Nicolas Froment, in [[Aix Cathedral]] (15th century)]] Artists have been painting in Provence since prehistoric times; paintings of bisons, seals, penguins and horses dating to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC were found in the [[Cosquer Cave]] near Marseille. The 14th-century wooden ceiling of the cloister of [[Fréjus Cathedral]] has a remarkable series of paintings of biblical scenes, fantastic animals, and scenes from daily life, painted between 1350 and 1360. They include paintings of a fallen angel with the wings of a bat, a demon with the tail of a serpent, angels playing instruments, a tiger, an elephant, an ostrich, domestic and wild animals, a mermaid, a dragon, a centaur, a butcher, a knight, and a juggler. [[Nicolas Froment]] (1435–1486) was the most important painter of Provence during the [[Renaissance]], best known for his [[triptych]] of the Burning Bush,(around 1476) commissioned by King [[René I of Naples]]. The painting shows the [[Annunciation to the shepherds]], with the Virgin Mary and Christ above the burning bush. The wings of the triptych show King Rene with [[Mary Magdalene]], [[Anthony the Great|St. Anthony]] and [[St. Maurice]] on one side, and Queen Jeanne de Laval, with [[Catherine of Alexandria|Saint Catherine]], [[John the Evangelist]], and [[Saint Nicholas]] on the other. [[Louis Bréa]] (1450–1523) was a 15th-century painter, born in Nice, whose work is found in churches from Genoa to Antibes. His ''Retable of Saint-Nicholas'' (1500) is found in [[Monaco]], and his ''Retable de Notre-Dame-de-Rosaire'' (1515) is found in [[Antibes]]. [[Pierre Paul Puget]] (1620–1694), born in Marseille, was a painter of portraits and religious scenes, but was better known for his sculptures, found in [[Toulon Cathedral]], outside the city hall of Toulon, and in the [[Louvre]]. There is mountain named for him near Marseille, and a square in Toulon. [[File:Paul Cézanne 090.jpg|thumb|[[Paul Cézanne]], ''L'Estaque'', 1883–1885]] [[File:Vincent Willem van Gogh 015.jpg|thumb|upright|''[[Cafe Terrace at Night]]'', September 1888.]] [[File:Signac The Port of Saint-Tropez.jpg|thumb|[[Paul Signac]], ''The Port of Saint-Tropez'', oil on canvas, 1901]] In the 19th and 20th centuries, many of the most famous painters in the world converged on Provence, drawn by the climate and the clarity of the light. The special quality of the light is partly a result of the Mistral wind, which removes dust from the atmosphere, greatly increasing visibility. *[[Paul Cézanne]] (1839–1906), was born in Aix-en-Provence, and lived and worked there most of his life. The local landscapes, particularly [[Montagne Sainte-Victoire]], featured often in his work. He also painted frequently at [[L'Estaque]]. *[[Vincent van Gogh]] (1853–1890). Van Gogh lived little more than two years in Provence, but his fame as a painter is largely a result of what he painted there. He lived in [[Arles]] from February 1888 to May 1889, and then in Saint-Remy from May 1889 until May 1890. *[[Auguste Renoir]] (1841–1919). Renoir visited [[Beaulieu-sur-Mer|Beaulieu]], [[Grasse]], [[Saint-Raphaël, Var|Saint Raphael]] and [[Cannes]], before finally settling in [[Cagnes-sur-Mer]] in 1907, where he bought a farm in the hills and built a new house and workshop on the grounds. He continued to paint there until his death in 1919. His house is now a museum. *[[Henri Matisse]] (1869–1954). Matisse first visited [[St. Tropez]] in 1904. In 1917 he settled in Nice, first at the Hotel Beau Rivage, then the Hotel de la Mediterranée, then la Villa des Allies in Cimiez. In 1921 he lived in an apartment at 1 place Felix Faure in Nice, next to the flower market and overlooking the sea, where he lived until 1938. He then moved to the Hotel Regina in the hills of Cimiez, above Nice. During World War II he lived in [[Vence]], then returned to Cimiez, where he died and is buried. *[[Pablo Picasso]] (1881–1973). Picasso spent each summer from 1919 to 1939 on the Côte d'Azur, and moved there permanently in 1946, first at [[Vallauris]], then at [[Mougins]], where he spent his last years. *[[Pierre Bonnard]] (1867–1947). Bonnard retired to and died at [[Le Cannet]]. *[[Georges Braque]] (1882–1963). Braque painted frequently at [[L'Estaque]] between 1907 and 1910. *[[Henri-Edmond Cross]] (1856–1910). Cross discovered the Côte d'Azur in 1883 and painted at [[Monaco]] and [[Hyeres]]. *[[Maurice Denis]] (1870–1943.) Denis painted at St. Tropez and [[Bandol]]. *[[André Derain]] (1880–1954). Derain painted at [[L'Estaque]] and [[Martigues]]. *[[Raoul Dufy]] (1877–1953), whose wife was from Nice, painted in [[Forcalquier]], [[Marseille]] and [[Martigues]]. *[[Albert Marquet]] (1873–1947), painted at Marseille, St. Tropez and [[L'Estaque]]. *[[Claude Monet]] (1840–1927). Monet visited Menton, [[Bordighera]], [[Juan-les-Pins]], [[Monte-Carlo]], Nice, [[Cannes]], [[Beaulieu-sur-Mer|Beaulieu]] and [[Villefranche-sur-Mer|Villefranche]], and painted a number of seascapes of [[Cap Martin]], near Menton, and at [[Cap d'Antibes]]. *[[Edvard Munch]] (1863–1944.) Munch visited and painted in [[Nice]] and Monte-Carlo (where he developed a passion for gambling), and rented a villa at [[Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat]] in 1891. *[[Paul Signac]] (1863–1935). Signac visited St. Tropez in 1892, and bought a villa, La Hune, at the foot of citadel in 1897. It was at his villa that his friend, Henri Matisse, painted his famous ''[[Luxe, Calme et Volupté]]''" in 1904. Signac made numerous paintings along the coast. *[[Pierre Deval]] (1897–1993), a French modernist and figurist painter, lived and worked at the [[Domaine d'Orvès]] in [[La Valette-du-Var]] from 1925 until his death in 1993. *[[Nicolas de Staël]] (1914–1955). Lived in Nice and [[Antibes]]. *[[Yves Klein]] (1928–1962); a native of [[Nice]], considered an important figure in post-war European art. *[[Sacha Sosno]] (1937- ); French painter and sculptor living and working in [[Nice]]. ''Source and Bibliography about artists on the Mediterranean'' *''Méditerrranée de Courbet á Matisse'', catalog of the exhibit at the Grand Palais, Paris from September 2000 to January 2001. Published by the Réunion des musées nationaux, 2000. == Film == Provence has a special place in the history of the motion picture – one of the first projected motion pictures, ''[[L'Arrivée d'un train en gare de La Ciotat]]'' (eng: the entry of a train into the station of Ciotat), a fifty-second silent film, was made by [[Auguste and Louis Lumière]] at the train station of the coastal town of [[La Ciotat]]. It was shown to an audience in Paris on 28 December 1895, causing a sensation. Before its commercial premiere in Paris, the film was shown to invited audiences in several French cities, including La Ciotat. It was shown at the Eden Theater in September 1895, making that theater one of the first motion picture theaters, and the only of the first theaters still showing movies in 2009. Three other of the earliest Lumiere films, ''[[Partie de cartes]]'', ''[[l'Arroseur arrosé]]'' (the first known filmed comedy), and ''[[Repas de bébé]]'', were also filmed in La Ciotat in 1895, at the Villa du Clos des Plages, the summer residence of the Lumiere Brothers. Two modern French film classics particularly capture the idyllic qualities of Provence: ''[[Jean de Florette]]'' and its sequel ''[[Manon des Sources (1986 film)|Manon des Sources]]''. == Cuisine == The '''cuisine of Provence''' is the result of the warm, dry Mediterranean climate; the rugged landscape, good for grazing sheep and goats but, outside of the Rhone Valley, with poor soil for large-scale agriculture; and the abundant seafood on the coast. The basic ingredients are [[olives]] and [[olive oil]]; [[garlic]]; [[sardines]], rockfish, [[sea urchins]] and [[octopus]]; [[Sheep|lamb]] and goat; [[chickpeas]]; local fruits, such as [[grape]]s, [[peach]]es, [[apricot]]s, [[Strawberry|strawberries]], [[Cherry|cherries]], and the famous melons of [[Cavaillon]]. The fish frequently found on menus in Provence are the '''rouget''', a small red fish usually eaten grilled, and the '''loup''', (known elsewhere in France as the ''bar''), often grilled with fennel over the wood of grapevines. [[File:Allioli.jpg|thumb|An [[Aioli|Aïoli]] made of [[garlic]], salt, [[egg yolk]] and [[olive oil]]]] [[File:Pissaladiera.jpg|thumb|Pissaladière]] [[File:Ratatouille02.jpg|thumb|A bowl of [[ratatouille]] with bread]] [[File:Socca in Nice.jpg|thumb|''Socca'' of [[Nice]] also known as ''La Cade'' in [[Toulon]]]] [[File:Calisson.jpg|thumb|The ''Calissons'' from Aix]] *[[Aioli|Aïoli]] is a thick emulsion sauce made from olive oil flavored with crushed garlic. It often accompanies a ''bourride'', a fish soup, or is served with potatoes and cod (fr. ''Morue''). There are as many recipes as there are families in Provence. * [[Bouillabaisse]] is the classic seafood dish of Marseille. The traditional version is made with three fish: [[scorpionfish]], [[sea robin]], and [[European conger]], plus an assortment of other fish and shellfish, such as [[John Dory]], [[monkfish]], [[sea urchins]], [[crabs]] and [[sea spiders]] included for flavor. The seasoning is as important as the fish, including salt, [[Chili pepper|pepper]], onion, tomato, [[safron]], [[fennel]], [[Salvia officinalis|sage]], [[thyme]], [[bay laurel]], sometimes orange peel, and a cup of white wine or [[cognac]]. In Marseille the fish and the broth are served separately – the broth is served over thick slices of bread with [[rouille]] (see below.) * [[Brandade|Brandade de Morue]] is a thick cream made of cod crushed and mixed with olive oil, milk, garlic and sometimes [[truffle]]s. * [[Daube]] provençale is a [[stew]] made with cubed beef [[Braising|braised]] in wine, vegetables, [[garlic]], and [[herbes de provence]]. Variations also call for [[olive]]s, [[prune]]s, and flavoring with [[duck]] fat, [[vinegar]], [[brandy]], [[lavender]], [[nutmeg]], [[cinnamon]], [[cloves]], [[juniper berries]], or orange peel. For best flavor, it is cooked in several stages, and cooled for a day between each stage to allow the flavors to meld together. In the [[Camargue]] area of France, bulls killed in the [[bullfighting]] festivals are sometimes used for daube. * [[Escabeche]] is another popular seafood dish; the fish (usually sardines) are either poached or fried after being marinated overnight in vinegar or citrus juice. * [[Fougasse (bread)|Fougasse]] is the traditional bread of Provence, round and flat with holes cut out by the baker. Modern versions are baked with olives or nuts inside. * '''Oursinade''' is the name of a sauce based on the coral of the [[sea urchin]], and usually is used with fish, and also refers to a tasting of sea urchins. * La '''pissaladière''' is another speciality of Nice. Though it resembles a pizza, it is made with bread dough and the traditional variety never has a tomato topping. It is usually sold in bakeries, and is topped with a bed of onions, lightly browned, and a kind of paste, called pissalat, made from sardines and anchovies, and the small black olives of Nice, called caillettes. * [[Ratatouille]] is a traditional dish of stewed vegetables, which originated in [[Nice]]. *'''[[Rouille]]''' is a mayonnaise with red [[pimentos]], often spread onto bread and added to fish soups. * [[Socca]] is a speciality of Nice – it is a round flat cake made of chickpea flour and olive oil, like the Italian [[farinata]]. It is baked in the oven in a large pan more than a meter in diameter, then seasoned with pepper and eaten with the fingers while hot. In [[Toulon]] ''socca'' is known as ''La Cade''. * '''Soupe au [[pistou]]''', either cold or hot, usually made with fresh [[basil]] ground and mixed with olive oil, along with summer vegetables, such as white beans, green beans, tomatoes, summer squash, and potatoes. * [[Tapenade]] is a relish consisting of pureed or finely chopped olives, capers, and olive oil, usually spread onto bread and served as an hors d'œuvre. * The [[calisson]] is the traditional cookie of Aix-en-Provence, made from a base of [[almond paste]] flavored with [[confit]] of melon and orange. They have been made in Aix-en-Provence since the 17th century. * The [[French king cake|gâteau des Rois]] is a type of [[epiphany]] cake found all over France; the Provençal version is different because it is made of [[brioche]] in a ring, flavored with the essence of orange flowers and covered with sugar and fruit confit. * The '''tarte Tropézienne''' is a tart of pastry cream (crème pâtissière) invented by a St. Tropez pastry chef named Alexandre Micka in the 1950s, based on a recipe he brought from his native Poland. In 1955, he was chef on the set of the film ''[[And God Created Woman (1956 film)|And God Created Woman]]'' when actress [[Brigitte Bardot]] suggested he name the cake La Tropézienne. It is now found in bakeries throughout the Var. * The [[Thirteen desserts]] is a Christmas tradition in Provence, when thirteen different dishes, representing Jesus and the twelve apostles, and each with a different significance, are served after the large Christmas meal. *'''[[Herbes de Provence]]''' (or '''Provençal herbs''') are a mixture of dried herbs from Provence which are commonly used in Provençal cooking. == Wines == {{main|Provence wine}} The '''wines of Provence''' were probably introduced into Provence around 600 BC by the Greek [[Phoceans]] who founded Marseille and Nice. After the Roman occupation, in 120 BC the [[Roman Senate]] forbade the growing of vines and olives in Provence, in order to protect the profitable trade in exporting Italian wines, but in the late Roman empire retired soldiers from [[Roman Legions]] settled in Provence and were allowed to grow grapes. The Romans complained about the competition from and poor quality of the wines of Provence. In the 1st century AD the Roman poet [[Martial]] condemned the wines of Marseille as "terrible poisons, and never sold at a good price." [[File:Montagne St.Victoire.jpg|thumb|Vineyards near Montagne St. Victoire, producing wines of the [[Provence wine|AOL Côtes de Provence]]]] As recently as the 1970s the wines of Provence had the reputation of being rather ordinary: In 1971 wine critic [[Hugh Johnson (wine)|Hugh Johnson]] wrote: "The whites are dry and can lack the acidity to be refreshing; the reds are straightforward, strong and a trifle dull; it is usually the [[rosé]]s, often orange-tinted, which have most appeal." He added, "Cassis and Bandol distinguish themselves for their white and red wines respectively. Cassis (no relation of the blackcurrant syrup) is livelier than the run of Provençal white wine, and Bandol leads the red in much the same way." Since that time, cultivation of poorer varieties has been reduced and new technologies and methods have improved the quality considerably. The wines of Provence are grown under demanding conditions; hot weather and abundant sunshine (Toulon, near Bandol, has the most sunshine of any city in France) which ripens the grapes quickly; little rain, and the mistral. The great majority of the wines produced in Provence are rosés. The most characteristic grape is [[mourvèdre]], used most famously in the red wines of Bandol. Cassis is the only area in Provence known for its white wines. There are three regional classifications ([[Appellation d'origine contrôlée]] (AOC)) in Provence: * '''AOC Côtes de Provence'''. This AOC classification dates to 1997, though these wines were recognized in the 17th and 18th century, notably by [[Madame de Sévigné]], who reported the habits and preferred wines of the Court of [[Louis XIV]]. The title Côtes de Provence was already in use in 1848, but production was nearly destroyed by [[phylloxera]] later in that century, and took decades to recover. The appellation today covers 84 communes in the [[Var (department)|Var]] and [[Bouches-du-Rhône]] departments, and one in [[Alpes-Maritimes]]. The principal grapes used in the red wines are the [[grenache]], [[mourvèdre]], [[cinsault]], [[tibouren]] and [[syrah]]. For the white wines, [[Clairette blanche|clairette]], [[vermentino]], [[sémillon]], and [[ugni blanc]]. The appellation covers 20,300 hectares. 80 percent of the production is rosé wine, fifteen percent is red wine, and 5 percent white wine. * '''AOC Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence''' was classified as an AOC in 1985. The wines of Aix were originally planted by veterans of the Roman legions in the 1st century BC, and were promoted in the 15th century by [[René I of Naples]], the last ruler of Provence. Most vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera in the 19th century, and very slowly were reconstituted. The principal grapes for the red wines and rosés are the grenache; [[mourvèdre]]; [[cinsault]] [[syrah]]; [[counoise]]; [[carignan]]; and [[cabernet sauvignon]]. White wines are made mainly with [[bourboulenc]]; clairette; [[grenache blanc]] and vermentino. There are 4000 hectares in production. 70 percent of the wines are rosés, 25 percent red wines, and 5 percent white wines. * '''AOC Coteaux varois en Provence''' is a recent AOC in Provence. The name Coteaux Varois was first used in 1945, and became an AOC in 1993. the name was changed to Couteaux Varois en Provence in 2005. The red wines principally use the grenache, cinsaut, [[mourvèdre]] and [[syrah]] grapes. White wines use the clairette, grenache blanc, rolle blanc, Sémillon Blanc, and Ugni Blanc. There are 2200 hectares in this AOL. It produces 80 percent rosés, 17 percent red wines, and 3 percent white wines. In addition, there are five local classifications: (''Les appellations locales''): * [[Bandol AOC]], grown in the [[Var (department)|Var]] on the coast west of Toulon, mostly around the villages of [[La Cadiere d'Azur]] and [[Castellet]]. Wines of this appellation must have at least fifty percent [[Mourvèdre]] grapes, though most have considerably more. Other grapes used are grenache, cinsault syrah and carignan. * [[AOC Cassis]], made near the coastal town of [[Cassis]], between Toulon and Marseille, was the first wine in Provence to be classified as an AOC in 1936, and is best known for its white wines. Wines from Cassis are described in French literature as early as the 12th century. The grapes most commonly used are the [[marsanne]], the clairette, the [[ugni blanc]], [[sauvignon blanc]] and the [[Bourboulenc]]. Rosé wines use the grenache, carignan and mourvèdre. *AOC [[Bellet]]; at the time of the French Revolution, the little town of Saint Roman de Bellet (now part of [[Nice]]) was the center of an important wine region. Production was nearly destroyed by the [[phylloxera]] and by the two wars, and only in 1946 was the region again producing fully. It was classified as an AOC in 1941. Today the region is one of the smallest in France; just 47 hectares. The grapes are grown on terraces along the left bank of the Var River, east of the town. The major grapes grown for red wines and rosés are the [[braquet]], [[Folle]], and [[Cinsault]], blended sometimes with [[grenache]]. For white wines, the major grapes grown are [[rolle blanc]], [[roussane]], [[spagnol]] and [[mayorquin]]; the secondary grapes are clairette, [[bourboulenc]], [[chardonnay]], [[pignerol]], and [[Muscat (grape and wine)|muscat]]. *[[Palette AOC]]; the little village of [[Le Tholonet|Palete]], four kilometres east of Aix-en-Provence, has long been famous for the production of a [[vin cuit]], or [[fortified wine]], used in the traditional Provence Christmas dessert, the [[Thirteen desserts]], and the Christmas cake called pompo à l'oli, or the olive-oil pump. This production was nearly abandoned, but is now being recreated. The main grapes for red wine are grenache and [[mourvèdre]] and [[cinsaut]]; for the white wines clairette. * AOC [[Les Baux de Provence]]; was established as a AOC for red and rosé wines in 1995. South of Avignon, it occupies the north and south slopes of the [[Alpilles]], up to an altitude of 400 metres, and extends about thirty kilometres from east to west. The principal grapes for the red wines are the grenache [[mourvèdre]], and [[syrah]]. For the rosés, the main grapes are the syrah and cinsault. == Pastis == [[File:pastis.jpg|thumb|upright|A glass of diluted [[pastis]]]] [[File:Toulon Playing Boules.jpg|upright|thumb|Men playing pétanque next to the Port St. Louis in [[Toulon]]]] [[File:Boule.kugel.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Cochonnet]] next to the boule]] [[Pastis]] is the traditional liqueur of Provence, flavored with [[anise]] and typically containing 40–45% [[alcohol by volume]]. When [[absinthe]] was banned in France in 1915, the major absinthe producers (then [[Pernod Fils]] and [[Paul Ricard|Ricard]], who have since merged as [[Pernod Ricard]]) reformulated their drink without the banned [[absinthe wormwood|wormwood]] and with more aniseed flavor, coming from [[star anise]], sugar and a lower alcohol content, creating pastis. It is usually drunk diluted with water, which it turns a cloudy color. It is especially popular in and around Marseille. == Pétanque or boules == [[Pétanque]], a form of [[boules]], is a popular sport played in towns and villages all over Provence. The origins of the game are said to be ancient, going back to the Egyptians, ancient Greeks, and [[Ancient Romans]], who are said to have introduced it to Provence first. The sport was very popular during the Middle Ages throughout Europe, known as [[bowls]] or lawn bowling in England, and as [[boules]] in France. A more athletic version of the sport called ''jeu provençal'' was popular throughout Provence in the 19th century – this version is featured in the novels and memoires of Marcel Pagnol; players ran three steps before throwing the ball, and it resembled at times a form of ballet. The modern version of the game was created in 1907 at the town of [[La Ciotat]] by a former champion of ''jeu provençal '' named Jules Hugues, who was unable to play because of his rheumatism. He devised a new set of rules where the field was much smaller, and players did not run before throwing the ball, but remained inside a small circle with their feet together. This gave the game its name, ''lei peds tancats'', in the [[Provençal dialect]] of [[occitan]], 'feet together.' The first tournament was played in La Ciotat in 1910. The first steel boules were introduced in 1927. The object is to throw a ball (boule) as close as possible to a smaller ball, called the [[cochonnet]], (this kind of throw is called to ''faire le point'' or ''pointer''); or to knock away a boules of the opponent that is close to the cochonnet (this is called to ''tirer''). Players compete one-on-one (''tête-à-tête''), in teams of two (''doublettes'') or teams of three (''triplettes''). The object is to accumulate thirteen points. The point belongs to the ball the closest to the cochonnet. A player pitches balls until he can regain the point (''reprenne le point'') by having his ball closest to the cochonnet. Each ball from a single team, if there are no other balls from the other team closer to the cochonnet, counts as a point. The points are counted when all of the balls have been tossed by both teams. {{-}} == See also == {{div col|colwidth=20em}} *[[Bastide (Provençal manor)]] *[[French Riviera]] *[[Rulers of Provence]] *[[Mas (Provençal farmhouse)]] *[[Saint Sarah]] *[[Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer]] *[[Santon (figurine)]] {{div col end}} == External links == {{Wiktionary}} {{Commons category-inline}} *[http://www.provenceguide.co.uk/ Official Provence area Tourist Board] Provence area Tourist Board *[http://www.decouverte-paca.fr/us/ Official PACA Tourist Board] Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur Tourist Board *[http://www.aixenprovencetourism.com/uk/aix-provence.htm Areas of Provence] Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office {{Regions of France}} {{Historic Provinces of France}} {{coord missing|France}}