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Patten (shoe)

Patten (shoe)

Overview


Pattens are protective overshoes worn from the Middle Ages
Middle Ages
The Middle Ages of European history is a period of European history covering roughly a millennium in the 5th century through 16th centuries. More specific starting and ending points are sometimes adopted by scholars to suit their respective specializations or current focus...

 until the early 20th century
20th century
The 20th century of the Common Era began on January 1, 1901 and ended on December 31, 2000, according to the Gregorian calendar.The British Empire, the Russian Empire, the German Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire dissolved in the first half of the century, with all but the...

. Pattens were worn outdoors over a normal shoe, held in place by leather
Leather
Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides and skins of animals, primarily cattlehide. The tanning process converts the putrescible skin into a durable and versatile material....

 or cloth bands, with a wooden or later wood and metal sole
Sole
Sole may refer to:* Sole , the bottom of the foot* Sole , the bottom supporting member of the shoe-In business:* Sole proprietorship, a business which legally has no separate existence from its owner...

. Pattens functioned to elevate the foot above the mud
Mud
Mud is a liquid or semi-liquid mixture of water and some combination of soil, silt, and clay. Ancient mud deposits harden over geological time to form sedimentary rock such as siltstone or solid, mudrock lutites. When geological deposits of mud are formed in estuaries the resultant layers are...

 and dirt (including human effluent
Effluent
Effluent is an outflowing of water from a natural body of water, or from a man-made structure.Effluent in the man-made sense is generally considered to be water pollution, such as the outflow from a sewage treatment facility or the wastewater discharge from industrial facilities...

 and animal dung
Dung
Dung may refer to:* Dung, animal feces* Dung, Doubs, a commune in the Doubs department in France* Mundungus "Dung" Fletcher, a character in Harry Potter* Dung beetle...

) of the street, in a period when road
Road
A road is an identifiable route, way or path between places. Roads are typically smoothed, paved, or otherwise prepared to allow easy travel; though they need not be, and...

 and urban
Urban
Urban means "related to cities." It may refer to:*Urban, California, former town in El Dorado County*Urban area, geographical area distinct from rural areas*Urban culture, culture of cities*Urban , given name and surname...

 paving was minimal.

The word patten probably derives from the Old French
Old French
Old French was the Romance dialect continuum spoken in territories which span roughly the northern half of modern France and parts of modern Belgium and Switzerland from around 900 to 1300...

 pate meaning hoof or paw.
Women continued to wear pattens in muddy conditions until the nineteenth or even early 20th century.
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Encyclopedia


Pattens are protective overshoes worn from the Middle Ages
Middle Ages
The Middle Ages of European history is a period of European history covering roughly a millennium in the 5th century through 16th centuries. More specific starting and ending points are sometimes adopted by scholars to suit their respective specializations or current focus...

 until the early 20th century
20th century
The 20th century of the Common Era began on January 1, 1901 and ended on December 31, 2000, according to the Gregorian calendar.The British Empire, the Russian Empire, the German Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire dissolved in the first half of the century, with all but the...

. Pattens were worn outdoors over a normal shoe, held in place by leather
Leather
Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides and skins of animals, primarily cattlehide. The tanning process converts the putrescible skin into a durable and versatile material....

 or cloth bands, with a wooden or later wood and metal sole
Sole
Sole may refer to:* Sole , the bottom of the foot* Sole , the bottom supporting member of the shoe-In business:* Sole proprietorship, a business which legally has no separate existence from its owner...

. Pattens functioned to elevate the foot above the mud
Mud
Mud is a liquid or semi-liquid mixture of water and some combination of soil, silt, and clay. Ancient mud deposits harden over geological time to form sedimentary rock such as siltstone or solid, mudrock lutites. When geological deposits of mud are formed in estuaries the resultant layers are...

 and dirt (including human effluent
Effluent
Effluent is an outflowing of water from a natural body of water, or from a man-made structure.Effluent in the man-made sense is generally considered to be water pollution, such as the outflow from a sewage treatment facility or the wastewater discharge from industrial facilities...

 and animal dung
Dung
Dung may refer to:* Dung, animal feces* Dung, Doubs, a commune in the Doubs department in France* Mundungus "Dung" Fletcher, a character in Harry Potter* Dung beetle...

) of the street, in a period when road
Road
A road is an identifiable route, way or path between places. Roads are typically smoothed, paved, or otherwise prepared to allow easy travel; though they need not be, and...

 and urban
Urban
Urban means "related to cities." It may refer to:*Urban, California, former town in El Dorado County*Urban area, geographical area distinct from rural areas*Urban culture, culture of cities*Urban , given name and surname...

 paving was minimal.

Etymology


The word patten probably derives from the Old French
Old French
Old French was the Romance dialect continuum spoken in territories which span roughly the northern half of modern France and parts of modern Belgium and Switzerland from around 900 to 1300...

 pate meaning hoof or paw.
Women continued to wear pattens in muddy conditions until the nineteenth or even early 20th century. In appearance, they may resemble contemporary clogs
Clog (shoe)
Clogs are a type of footwear. There are four main types of clogs. Clogs can be a type of shoe or sandal made predominantly out of wood. They can be a type of heavy boot or shoe with sides, uppers and typically thick wooden soles, and may have steel toecaps and/or steel reinforcing inserts in the...

 or sandals
Sandal (footwear)
Sandals are an open type of outdoor footwear, consisting of a sole held to the wearer's foot by straps or thongs passing over the instep and around the ankle...

, but though historical usage was apparently not always consistent, the term now is used only to describe protective overshoes worn over another pair of shoes.

Medieval period


Pattens were worn during the Middle Ages
Middle Ages
The Middle Ages of European history is a period of European history covering roughly a millennium in the 5th century through 16th centuries. More specific starting and ending points are sometimes adopted by scholars to suit their respective specializations or current focus...

 outdoors and in public places over (outside) the thin sole
Sole
Sole may refer to:* Sole , the bottom of the foot* Sole , the bottom supporting member of the shoe-In business:* Sole proprietorship, a business which legally has no separate existence from its owner...

d shoe
Shoe
A shoe is an item of footwear evolved at first to protect the human foot and later, additionally, as an item of decoration in itself. The foot contains more bones than any other single part of the body, and has evolved over hundreds of thousands of years in relation to vastly varied terrain and...

s of that era
Era
An era is a commonly used word for long period of time. When used in science, for example geology, eras denote clearly defined periods of time of arbitrary but well defined length, such as for example the Mesozoic era from 252 Ma–66 Ma, delimited by a start event and an end event. When used in...

. Pattens were worn by both men and women during the Middle Ages
Middle Ages
The Middle Ages of European history is a period of European history covering roughly a millennium in the 5th century through 16th centuries. More specific starting and ending points are sometimes adopted by scholars to suit their respective specializations or current focus...

, and are especially seen in art from the 15th century
1400-1500 in fashion
Fashion in 15th century Europe was characterized by a series of extremes and extravagances, from the voluminous gowns called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing doublets and hose of Renaissance Italy...

: a time when poulaine
Poulaine
Poulaines or crackowes were a style of shoes with extremely long toes very popular in the 15th century. They were so named because the style was thought to have originated in Kraków, then the capital of Poland. They began in the late 14th century and fell from fashion after about 1480-90...

s, shoes with very long pointed toes, were particularly in fashion.

Medieval pattens were known in English by the terms: 'patyns',;'clogges'; and 'galoches'; but the original shades of meaning and distinction between these terms is now unclear. Medieval and Early Modern overshoes are now all usually referred to as 'pattens' for convenience.

Types


There were three main types of pattens: one with a wooden 'platform' sole raised from the ground by either with wooden wedges or iron stands. The second variant had a flat wooden sole often hinge
Hinge
A hinge is a type of bearing that connects two solid objects, typically allowing only a limited angle of rotation between them. Two objects connected by an ideal hinge rotate relative to each other about a fixed axis of rotation . Hinges may be made of flexible material or of moving...

d. The third type had a flat sole
Sole
Sole may refer to:* Sole , the bottom of the foot* Sole , the bottom supporting member of the shoe-In business:* Sole proprietorship, a business which legally has no separate existence from its owner...

 made from stacked layers of leather
Leather
Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides and skins of animals, primarily cattlehide. The tanning process converts the putrescible skin into a durable and versatile material....

. Some later European varieties of these pattens had a laminated sole: light wooden inner sections with leather above and below. In earlier varieties of pattens, dating from the Twelfth-Century on, the stilt
Stilt
Stilt is a common name for several species of birds in the family Recurvirostridae, which also includes those known as avocets. They are found in brackish or saline wetlands in warm or hot climates....

 or wedge variety were more common. From the late 14th century, the flat variety became increasingly common. Leather pattens became fashionable in the 14th and 15th centuries, and in London appear to have begun to be worn as shoes over hose in the 15th century, spreading to a much wider section of the public.. Most London patten sole
Sole
Sole may refer to:* Sole , the bottom of the foot* Sole , the bottom supporting member of the shoe-In business:* Sole proprietorship, a business which legally has no separate existence from its owner...

s were constructed of alder
Alder
Alder is the common name of a genus of flowering plants belonging to the birch family . The genus comprises about 30 species of monoecious trees and shrubs, few reaching large size, distributed throughout the North Temperate Zone and in the Americas also along the Andes southwards to...

, willow
Willow
Willows, sallows, and osiers form the genus Salix, around 400 species of deciduous trees and shrubs, found primarily on moist soils in cold and temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere...

 or poplar
Poplar
Populus is a genus of 25–35 species of deciduous flowering plants in the family Salicaceae, native to most of the Northern Hemisphere. English names variously applied to different species include poplar, aspen, and cottonwood....

 wood
Wood
Wood is an organic material; in the strict sense wood is produced as secondary xylem in the stems of trees . In a living tree it transfers water and nutrients to the leaves and other growing tissues, and has a support function, enabling woody plants to reach large sizes or to stand up for themselves...

s.


In 1390, the Diocese of York
Diocese of York
The Diocese of York is an administrative division of the Church of England, part of the Province of York. It covers the city of York, the eastern part of North Yorkshire, and most of the East Riding of Yorkshire....

 forbade clergy
Clergy
Clergy is the generic term used to describe the formal religious leadership within a given religion. The term ultimately comes from the Greek κλῆρος - klēros, "a lot", "that which is assigned by lot" or metaphorically, "inheritence"....

 from wearing pattens and clogs in both church and in processions, considering them to be indecorous: "contra honestatem ecclesiae". Conversely, the famous Spanish rabbi
Rabbi
Rabbi is the term in Judaism for a religious teacher. The word rabbi derives from the Hebrew root word , rav, which in biblical Hebrew means ‘great’ in many senses, including "revered." The word comes from the Semitic root R-B-B, and is cognate to Arabic ربّ rabb, meaning "lord" Rabbi ' onMouseout='HidePop("1268")' href="http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Shlomo_ben_Aderet">Solomon ben Abraham Ibn Adret
Shlomo ben Aderet
Shlomo ben Aderet was a Medieval rabbi, halakhist, and Talmudist. He is widely known as the Rashba , the Hebrew acronym of his title and name: Rabbi Shlomo ben Aderet.The Rashba was born in Barcelona, Spain, in 1235...

, "the Rashba", (ca. 1233-ca.1310) was asked if it was permissible to wear "patines" on Shabbat
Shabbat
Shabbat is the seventh day of the Jewish week and a day of rest in Judaism. Shabbat is observed from sundown Friday until the appearance of three stars in the sky on Saturday night...

, to which he replied that it was the custom of "all the wise in the land" to wear them, and certainly permitted.


Since shoes of the period had thin soles, pattens were commonly used mainly because of unpaved roads and also that indoor stone floors were very cold in winter. Furthermore, refuse in cities – animal especially horse dung
Dung
Dung may refer to:* Dung, animal feces* Dung, Doubs, a commune in the Doubs department in France* Mundungus "Dung" Fletcher, a character in Harry Potter* Dung beetle...

 and human effluent
Effluent
Effluent is an outflowing of water from a natural body of water, or from a man-made structure.Effluent in the man-made sense is generally considered to be water pollution, such as the outflow from a sewage treatment facility or the wastewater discharge from industrial facilities...

 (from chamber pot
Chamber pot
A chamber pot is a bowl-shaped container with a handle kept in the bedroom under a bed or in the cabinet of a nightstand and generally used as a urinal at night...

s)– was usually thrown directly into the street (often with minimal advance warning). Making full foot contact with such an unpleasant surface was, understandably, highly undesirable. Thus, pattens tended to only make contact with the ground through two or three strips of wood and raised the wearer up considerably, sometimes by four inches (ten centimetres) or more in contrast to clogs which usually have a low, flat-bottomed sole
Sole
Sole may refer to:* Sole , the bottom of the foot* Sole , the bottom supporting member of the shoe-In business:* Sole proprietorship, a business which legally has no separate existence from its owner...

 integral to the shoe.

Early Modern period



A later pattern of patten which seems to date from the 17th century, and then became the most common, had a flat metal ring which made contact with the ground, attached to a metal plate nailed into the wooden sole via connecting metal, often creating a platform of by several inches (more than 7 centimetres). By this time men's shoes had thicker soles and the wealthier males (the gentry
Gentry
Gentry denotes “well-born and well-bred people” occupying the social class of the minor aristocracy, and whose income derives from their large landholdings.- British :...

 or gentlemen) commonly wore high riding boot
Riding boot
Riding boots are boots made to be used for horse riding. The classic boot comes high enough up the leg to prevent the leathers of the saddle from pinching the leg of the rider, has a sturdy toe to protect the rider's foot when on the ground, and has a distinct heel to prevent the foot from sliding...

s, thus pattens seem only to have been worn by women and working-class men in outdoor occupations. Since dress hem
Hem
To hem a piece of cloth , a garment workerfolds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The process of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot ravel....

s extended down to the feet for most of this period, it was necessary to raise the hem above the ground to keep the dress clean even in well-swept and paved streets. The motto
Motto
A motto is a phrase meant to formally describe the general motivation or intention of a social group or organization. A motto may be in any language, but Latin is the most used...

 of the London Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers
Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers
The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers is one of the Livery Companies of the City of London. The Pattenmakers, who were incorporated by Royal Charter in 1670, were makers of wooden-soled overshoes. Pattens were helpful in walking through the muddy streets of London. However, with the advent of...

, the former representative guild
Guild
A guild is an association of craftsmen in a particular trade.The earliest guilds were formed as confraternities of workers. They were organized in a manner something between a trade union, a cartel and a secret society...

 for this trade, was and remains: Recipiunt Fœminæ Sustentacula Nobis, Latin for Women Receive Support From Us. The 19th century invention of cheap rubber galoshes gradually displaced the patten, as did the widespread use of urban
Urban
Urban means "related to cities." It may refer to:*Urban, California, former town in El Dorado County*Urban area, geographical area distinct from rural areas*Urban culture, culture of cities*Urban , given name and surname...

 paving, especially elevated, paved pathways only for pedestrian
Pedestrian
A pedestrian is a person traveling on foot, whether walking or running. In some communities, those traveling using roller skates, skateboards, and similar devices are also considered to be pedestrians. In modern times, the term mostly refers to someone walking on a road or footpath, but this was...

s- the now ubiquitous sidewalk
Sidewalk
A sidewalk , pavement , footpath , platform or footway is a path for pedestrians that is situated alongside a road or a paved...

s or footpaths.

Etiquette and Practicality


Wearing of pattens inside church was discouraged, if not outright forbidden: perhaps because of the noise they made, the oft-commented "clink" being the consensus term for the sound; Jane Austen
Jane Austen
Jane Austen was an English novelist, whose realism, biting social commentary and use of free indirect speech, have earned her a place as one of the most widely read and most beloved writers in English literature....

 wrote of the "ceaseless clink of pattens" referring to life in Bath.. To talk excessively and too loudly was coined to be as if one: "had your "tongue run (or go) on pattens", used by Shakespeare and others.. In houses, pattens were taken off with hats (for men) and overcoats upon entering, not doing so being considered rude and inconsiderate by bringing dirt inside - literally a faux pas or wrong step. The aunt of the Brontë
Brontë
The Brontë sisters , Charlotte , Emily and Anne , were English writers of the 1840s and 1850s...

 Sisters, Miss Branwell, seems to have been considered notably eccentric for wearing her pattens indoors:
Pattens were not always easy to walk in, and despite their practical intention, literary evidence suggests that they could appear, at least to males, as a further aspect of feminine frailty and dependency. Samuel Pepys
Samuel Pepys
Samuel Pepys, FRS was an English naval administrator and Member of Parliament, who is now most famous for his diary. Although Pepys had no maritime experience, he rose by patronage, hard work and his talent for administration, to be the Chief Secretary to the Admiralty under both King Charles II...

 recorded in his Diary for January 24, 1660:
From the Middle Period Poems of John Clare
John Clare
John Clare was an English poet, born the son of a farm labourer who came to be known for his representations of the English countryside...

 (1820s):

("hitops" are high boots)

From Thomas Hardy
Thomas Hardy
Thomas Hardy, OM was an English novelist and poet of the naturalist movement, although in several poems he displays elements of the previous romantic and enlightenment periods of literature, such as his fascination with the supernatural. He regarded himself primarily as a poet and composed novels...

's The Woodlanders
The Woodlanders
The Woodlanders is a novel by Thomas Hardy. It was published in 1887.-Plot summary:The story takes place in a small woodland village called Little Hintock, and concerns the efforts of an honest woodsman, Giles Winterborne, to marry his childhood sweetheart, Grace Melbury...

of 1887, though set earlier in the century:

Other uses of the term


The word could also be used as a term for a wooden soled shoe, that is a chopine
Chopine
A chopine is a type of women's platform shoe that was popular in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Chopines were originally used as a patten, clog, or overshoe to protect the shoes and dress from mud and street soil....

 or clog
Clog (shoe)
Clogs are a type of footwear. There are four main types of clogs. Clogs can be a type of shoe or sandal made predominantly out of wood. They can be a type of heavy boot or shoe with sides, uppers and typically thick wooden soles, and may have steel toecaps and/or steel reinforcing inserts in the...

, as opposed to an overshoe, until at least the nineteenth century. The word was also used for the traditional wooden outdoor shoes of Japan
Japan
is an island country in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, People's Republic of China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south...

 and other Asian countries. What are in effect snowshoe
Snowshoe
Snowshoes, sometimes colloquially referred to as webs, are footwear for walking over snow. Snowshoes work by distributing the weight of the person over a larger area so that the person's foot doesn't sink completely into the snow, a quality called "flotation".Traditional snowshoes have a hardwood...

s for mud, as used by wildfowlers, boatmen, and Coast Guard
Coast guard
A coast guard or coastguard is a national organization responsible for various services at sea. However the term implies widely different responsibilities in different countries.-Role:...

s may also be called pattens, or "mud-pattens". These are shaped boards attached to the sole of a shoe, which extend sideways well beyond the shape of the foot, and therefore are a different sort of footwear from the patten discussed here.
"Horse-pattens" were used on horses, especially for plough
Plough
The plough is a tool used in farming for initial cultivation of soil in preparation for sowing seed or planting. It has been a basic instrument for most of recorded history, and represents one of the major advances in agriculture...

ing muddy fields. The word was also used for ice-skate
Ice skating
Ice skating is moving on ice by use of ice skates. It can be done for a variety of reasons, including leisure, traveling, and various sports. Ice skating occurs both on specially prepared indoor and outdoor tracks, as well as on naturally occurring bodies of frozen water such as lakes and...

s, as it is in French (patiner, to skate).

The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers


In London
London
[]London is the capital of England and the United Kingdom. It has been a major settlement for two millennia, and the history of London goes back to its founding by the Romans, when it was named Londinium. London's core, the ancient City of London, the 'square mile', retains its medieval boundaries...

, the Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers
Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers
The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers is one of the Livery Companies of the City of London. The Pattenmakers, who were incorporated by Royal Charter in 1670, were makers of wooden-soled overshoes. Pattens were helpful in walking through the muddy streets of London. However, with the advent of...

 remains the Livery Company
Livery Company
The 108 Livery Companies are trade associations based in the City of London, almost all of which are known as the "Worshipful Company of" the relevant trade or profession. The Livery Companies originally developed as guilds and were responsible for the regulation of their trades, controlling, for...

, formerly guild
Guild
A guild is an association of craftsmen in a particular trade.The earliest guilds were formed as confraternities of workers. They were organized in a manner something between a trade union, a cartel and a secret society...

 of the Patten-makers, or Patteners, and their adopted church remains St Margaret Pattens
St Margaret Pattens
St Margaret Pattens is a Church of England church in the City of London, located on Eastcheap near the Monument. The dedication is to St. Margaret of Antioch.-History:...

. The first record of the guild dates to 1379, and there was still a pattenmaker listed in a London Trade Directory in the 1920s. A notice, probably 18th century, in the Guild Church still requests ladies to remove their pattens on entering; other English churches have similar signs, and in one case, a board with pegs for ladies to hang them on.

External links