Encyclopedia
Newfoundland is a large island off the east coast of
North America, and the most populous part of the
Canadian province of
Newfoundland and Labrador. Newfoundland is often referred to as "The Middle of the
North Atlantic", but it is actually more than 1000 km away from it. The island of Newfoundland was most likely first named by the Italian
John Cabot in 1497. The province where this island is located was also called "Newfoundland" until 2001, when its name was changed to "Newfoundland and Labrador" .
Newfoundland is separated from the
Labrador Peninsula by the
Strait of Belle Isle and from
Cape Breton Island by the Cabot Strait. It blocks the mouth of the
Saint Lawrence River, creating the
Gulf of Saint Lawrence, the world's largest
estuary. Newfoundland's nearest neighbour is the tiny
French overseas community of
Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.
It is 111,390 km
2 in area, making it the
world's 16th largest island, and
Canada's fourth largest island. The provincial capital,
St. John's, is found on the southeastern tip of the island.
Cape Spear, just south of the capital, is Canada's easternmost point. The island of Newfoundland has a population of 466,172. However, it is common to consider all directly-neighbouring islands such as New World, Twillingate, Fogo and Bell Islands to be 'part of Newfoundland' . By that measure, the population is 485,066
Newfoundland has a dialect of
English known as
Newfoundland English and a dialect of
French known as Newfoundland French, and once had a dialect of
Irish known as
Newfoundland Irish.
First inhabitants
The recent natives on Newfoundland were the probable ancestors of the historical Beothuk inhabitants at the time of European contact.
Beothuk means "people" in the Beothuk language. The origins of the Beothuks are uncertain, but it appears that they were a native group that came from Labrador. The culture is now extinct, remembered only in museum, historical and archaeological records.
Shanawdithit, the last known Beothuk , died in St. John's in 1829.
It is likely that the natives described by the
Vikings as skraelings were Beothuk inhabitants of Labrador and Newfoundland. The first conflicts between Europeans and native peoples may have occurred around 1006 at
L'Anse aux Meadows when parties of Norsemen attempted to establish permanent settlements along the coast of Newfoundland. According to
Norse sagas, the native skraelings responded so ferociously that the newcomers eventually withdrew and apparently gave up their original intentions to settle.
When other Europeans arrived, beginning with
John Cabot in 1497, contact with the Beothuks was established. Estimates of the number of Beothuks on the island at this time vary, ranging from 1,000 to 5,000.
As European settlement became year-round and expanded to new areas of the coast the area available to the Beothuks to harvest the marine resources they relied upon was diminished. By the beginning of the nineteenth century there were few Beothuks remaining, many having been killed by settlers or having died as a result of starvation and disease. Government attempts to open a dialogue with the native peoples of Newfoundland came too late to save them.
Many Newfoundland residents can trace a clear
Native American ancestry, mostly
Micmac.
Discovery, colonization, and settlement
Newfoundland is the site of the only authenticated Norse settlement in North America, discovered by
Norwegian explorer
Dr. Helge Ingstad and his archaeologist wife, Anne Stine Ingstad, at
L'Anse aux Meadows in 1960. The site of a multi-year
archaeological dig, the settlement dating to more than 500 years before
Christopher Columbus, contains the earliest
European structures in North America.
Named a World Heritage site by
UNESCO, it is believed to be the
Vinland settlement of explorer
Leif Ericson.
The Norse stayed for a relatively short period of time, believed to be between 999 and 1001AD. After their departure, the island would be left to the aboriginal populations for nearly 500 years until the island was rediscovered by the
Italian navigator
John Cabot, in 1497. The exact place where John Cabot landed is popularly believed to be Bonavista, along the island's East coast, although other sites along the East coast also have significant claims. Perhaps the site with the best claim is Cape Bauld, at the tip of the
Great Northern Peninsula. It is supported by a document found in the Spanish National Archives written by a Bristol merchant which reports that the crew landed 1,800 miles west of Dursey Head, Ireland which would put Cabot within sight of Cape Bauld. Also in this document is mention of an island that Cabot sailed past to go ashore on the mainland. This description fits with Cape Bauld theory,
Belle Isle being not far offshorer Cabot, the first European visitors to Newfoundland were Portuguese, Spanish, French and English migratory fishermen. Late in the 17th century came
Irish fishermen, who named the island
Talamh an Éisc, meaning "land of the fish", or "the fishing grounds" in
Irish Gaelic. This was to foreshadow the centuries of importance of Newfoundland's offshore fishing waters.
In 1583, when Sir
Humphrey Gilbert formally claimed Newfoundland as a colony of England, he found numerous English, French and Portuguese vessels in St. John's. However there was no permanent population and Gilbert was lost at sea during his return voyage, thereby ending any plans of settlement.
On July 5, 1610, John Guy set sail from
Bristol,
England with 39 other colonists for Cuper's Cove. This, and other early attempts at permanent settlement failed to make a profit for the English investors, but some settlers remained anyway forming the very earliest European population on the island. By 1620, the fishermen of England's West Country had excluded other nations from most of the east coast of Newfoundland, while fishermen from France dominated the island's south coast and Northern Peninsula.
After 1763, with the Treaty of Paris, the French ceded control of south and north shores of the island to the British, keeping only the nearby islands of
St. Pierre and Miquelon located in the fish-rich
Grand Banks off the south coast. Despite some early settlements by the English, permanent, year-round settlement of Newfoundland of migratory fishery workers was discouraged by the British. But with the geographic remoteness of its isolated harbours and convenience of year-round access to the fish stations without having to make the bi-annual voyage across the ocean, permanent settlement increased rapidly by the late 18th century, peaking in the early years of the
19th century.
The French name for the island is
Terre Neuve, while the name "Newfoundland"' is one of the oldest European place names in Canada in continuous geographical and
cartographical use, dating from a 1502 letter, and clearly stated in the following early poem:
A Skeltonicall continued ryme, in praise of my New-found-Land- Although in cloaths, company, buildings faire
- With England, New-found-land cannot compare:
- Did some know what contentment I found there,
- Alwayes enough, most times somewhat to spare,
- With little paines, lesse toyle, and lesser care,
- Exempt from taxings, ill newes, Lawing, feare,
- If cleane, and warme, no matter what you weare,
- Healthy, and wealthy, if men carefull are,
- With much-much more, then I will now declare,
- if some wise men knew what this were
- they'd live no other where.
From 'The First Booke of
Qvodlibets
Composed and done at Harbor-Grace
in
Britaniola
, anciently called Newfound-Land
by Governor Robert Hayman - 1628.
The European immigrants who settled in Newfoundland brought their knowledge, beliefs, loyalties and prejudices with them, but the society they built in the New World was unlike the ones they had left, and different from the ones other immigrants would build on the American mainland. As a fish-exporting society, Newfoundland was in contact with many places around the Atlantic rim, but its geographic location and political distinctiveness also isolated it from its closest neighbors in Canada and the United States, so much so that this isolation can be felt even today. Internally, most of its population was spread widely around a rugged coastline in small outport settlements, many of them a long distance from larger centers of population and isolated for long periods by winter ice or bad weather. These conditions had an effect on the culture the immigrants had brought with them and generated new ways of thinking and acting, giving Newfoundland and Labrador a wide variety of distinctive customs, beliefs, stories, songs, and dialects.
The First World War had a powerful and lasting effect on the society. From a population of about a quarter of a million, 5,482 men went overseas. Nearly 1,500 were killed and 2,300 wounded. On July 1, 1916, at Beaumont-Hamel, France, 753 men of the
Royal Newfoundland Regiment went over the top of a trench. The casualties were staggering; the next morning, only 68 men answered the roll-call. Newfoundland had lost about one-quarter of its young men in WWI and it has been suggested that this loss of so many men, proportionally speaking, in the prime of their lives contributed to the economic collapse that was to ultimately influence confederation with Canada. Even now, when the rest of Canada celebrates the founding of the country on July 1, many Newfoundlanders take part in solemn ceremonies of remembrance.
World War II also had a lasting impact on Newfoundland. In particular, the war ushered in an American presence at the military bases at Argentia, Gander, Stephenville, Goose Bay and St. John's. Interaction with the bases helped make cash a more widespread economic medium and consolidated a traditional admiration for America contrasted with apprehension of mainland Canada that is often forgotten today. It is also believed that American soldiers coined the word "Newfie".
Newfoundland and Labrador is the youngest province in Canada, having enjoyed the status of a country until 1949. That year, the population voted 50.50% to 49.50% in favour of joining Canada, whose history, economy, culture and political institutions were significantly different. The referendum campaign was bitterly fought and interests in both Canada and Britain favoured and supported confederation with Canada. This is exemplified in the role of Jack Pickersgill, a western Canadian native and politician, who worked with the confederation camp during the campaign. Religion played a significant role in the final analysis as well with the Catholic church lobbying for continued independence. Financial incentives played their part, particularly the "baby bonus" which promised Newfoundlanders a cash sum for each child in a family. The Confederates were led by the charismatic
Joseph Smallwood, a former radio broadcaster who had developed socialist political inclinations while working for a socialist newspaper in New York. His policies as premier would assume a form closer to liberalism than socialism. Mr. Smallwood led Newfoundland for decades as the elected premier following confederation and achieved a "cult of personality" amongst his many supporters that persisted long after his political defeat. Indeed, some homes actually had pictures of Joey in their living rooms in a place of prominence. It has been suggested that some members of the public regarded financial incentives like the baby bonus as the direct products of Smallwood's benevolence rather than their right as Canadian citizens.
The province's provincial flag, designed by Newfoundland artist Christopher Pratt, was officially adopted by the provincial legislature on May 28, 1980. Labrador has its own unofficial flag, created in 1973 by Mike Martin, former Member of the Legislative Assembly for Labrador South. There is also an unofficial
"Pink, White and Green" flag of nineteenth century origins. The flag was flown on sealing vessels well into the 20th century. Its colours represent the symbolic union of Newfoundland's three historically dominant ethnic/religious group: English, Scottish and Irish respectively. Sealers also used the flag as a marker to distinguish cached seal pellets on the ice from the caches of other nations. It is now flown outside many Newfoundland homes, although it is mistaken by many tourists as the Irish flag. This "unofficial" flag has seen a rise in popularity in recent years, before which it had been relatively forgotten by a majority of Newfoundlanders. "Pink White and Green" emblems now appear on a multitude of items in Newfoundland gift shops, and it has developed into a symbolic gesture of one's ties with one's Newfoundland heritage as well as a trendy fashion statement.
A nation?
At various points in its history , Newfoundland has been a state, by the definition of the day. For example, the
Dominion of Newfoundland existed with a level of legal "independence" from the British Empire equal to many other states considered "independent" at the time, such as Canada This historical legal independence, coupled with a largely ethnically homogeneous population , a number of unique cultural practices, and a
distinct dialect of English have led many people, scholars and laypeople alike, to consider Newfoundland, or Newfoundlanders, a "nation".
In some cases, this leads directly to a pro-independence leaning in an individual's political beliefs. However, there are also many Newfoundlanders who have very strong "Newfoundland identity" - clearly defining themselves as "Newfoundlanders not Canadians" - who still have no particular desire for a dissolution of the union between Newfoundland and Canada created in 1949. This dichotomy clearly exposes the distinction between "nation" and "state".
Other features of Newfoundland and Newfoundlanders commonly cited as "National identity" features include:
- The pre-confederation National Anthem, the Ode to Newfoundland, continues to be used as such in many ceremonies. In one of the clearest uses, when rugby games are played between a Canadian team and the Newfoundland Rock, the Ode is sung for the Rock, and "O Canada" for the visiting "Canadian" team.
- Newfoundland has had a unique experience with institutionalized religion in the Canadian context.
- Newfoundland appears to employ cultural mores in day-to-day interaction markedly different from the rest of Canada provided one is paying close attention. These mores emphasize casual familiarity rather than formal respect irrespective of the size of the local population. They are readily apparent in St. John's, the second largest urban centre in Atlantic Canada. Newfoundland's social mores regarding status differentiation are consequently far more subtle than what one frequently encounters off island. Obviously, there is social stratification on the island. But, aggressive and overt presentation of social distinctions has a tendency to lead to instant social sanction. For example, political leaders who traditionally do well in Newfoundland are those who can successfully appear as "common" as possible while demonstrating authority legitimating personal characteristics by example. Mere words and cosmetic behaviors are often inadequate. Symbolic pretensions to authority based on education, superior class position or raw power tend to fail quite miserably. This is a cultural fact that tends to be lost on non-islanders who originate from regions with a clearer class demarcation structure.
- Newfoundlanders consistently rank the highest on polls ascertaining identification with province over country. The results are commonly 70-80% favouring provincial identification. This is markedly higher than similar polls in Quebec, though those polls are clearly affected by the sovereignty issue.
- Elliot Leyton, a famous sociologist who specializes in the study of human aggression, notes that Newfoundland enjoys one of the lowest homicide rates in the western world. According to Leyton, the rate is approximately 1/100,000. This is the same rate as modern England and half that of the Canadian average of roughly 2/100,000. Leyton suggests the lower rate is rooted in the social and cultural characteristics of the island, primarily the historical need to resolve conflict without recourse to centralized formal social control mechanisms.
Reputation
Newfoundlanders have a reputation for being welcoming, outgoing, and friendly, but the sayings that are common in Newfoundland may be interperated as something different on the mainland. i.e.: "How's ya gettin' on buddy?". On the Island this means "How is it going my friend?" but on the mainland it may be took as meaning how is someone on something like an airplane or boat. This way of speaking is common on the east coast in the small outports and somewhat in the capital, St. Johns, but not so much on the west coast of Newfoundland.
Although the province has an above average unemployment rate as compared to the rest of Canada, Newfoundlanders are well known to be hard working individuals. This can be seen through many manual labour positions throughout North America they have taken in hopes of providing a more stable lifestyle for their families. Many Newfoundlanders have moved to the "mainland" in order to find employment since the mismanagement and subsequent destruction of the cod fishery , culminating in the famous 'Cod Moratorium' in 1993, which many people rightly blame the federal and provincial government for. Following a gigantic increase in offshore territory under Canada's jurisdiction during the nintey seventies federal and provincal departments apodted a 'gold rush' mentality towards fishing and began a series of policy and technological adoptions which, when combined with a complete lack of understanding for the intricacies of the oceanic ecosystem and disregard for traditional practices resulted in the cod-moratorium. More of a last ditch effort then an actual intelligent decision by government to protect the precious resource, the moratorium only became a reality following plummeting catches in the early nintes and a realisation that operating expenses made fishing unprofitable for the large corporations who commanded dozens, even hundreds of vessels. In less then fifty years of Canadian 'regulation', arguably the most bountiful stock of oceanic life in the world was destroyed and brought to the brink of extinction. The cod still has not recovered in 2006 and will likely never return to pre-93 levels due to the continued mismanagement by government agencies and companies which continue to fish every last organism in the food chain using some of the most advanced fishing technology in the world. A common misconception about this aspect of Newfoundland's reputation is that somehow 'foreign fleets' were the ones responsible for the cod moratorium, or perhaps even more amusing is the suggestion that seals were the real culprits . Both claims are factless and simply served to provide a conveinant excuse for policy makers to justify the moratorium and pass the buck. In reality, Newfoundlanders themselves allowed the DFO, politicians, and their provincal counterparts to create absurd quotas simply because they could. Once the cod ran out it was simply a matter or blaming everyone else for the effects of a greedy system that ignored scientific recommendations, observations, and warnings about the declining stocks. Sustainablitly was thrown to the wind in the mad dash by corporations, government, and everyone in between to get a piece of the multi-billion dollar pie that was the Newfoundland fisheries.
Points of interest and major settlements
Being one of the first places discovered in the
New World, Newfoundland has a rich history.
St. John's is considered to be the oldest city in English speaking North America.
Newfoundland is home to two national parks.
Gros Morne National Park is located on the west coast of Newfoundland and was named a
UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987 due to its complex geology and remarkable scenery. It is the largest national park in
Atlantic Canada at 1 805 km² .
Terra Nova National Park, on the island's east side, preserves the rugged geography of the Bonavista Bay region and allows visitors to explore the historic interplay of land, sea and man.
Newfoundland also contains a major hiking trail that runs along the eastern edge of the
Avalon Peninsula. The East Coast Trail extends for 215 km, beginning near Fort Amherst in
St. John's and ending in Cappahayden. The trail winds along the coast, bringing hikers through many small fishing villages and along long streches of rocky, uninhabited coastline.
Stephenville, a town of about 8000, once served as an airbase for the US Army and Air Force in the early 1940s to 1966. It is about 32 km north of its former train station, which is surrounded by the town of
Stephenville Crossing.
Also on the West Coast,
Corner Brook is situated in the Bay of Islands region. The major industry in Corner Brook is newsprint manufacturing, and is serviced by the Corner Brook Pulp and Paper Mill.
Sandy Point, which is located in St. George's Bay and north of the town of St. George's, was the first and largest settlement of the west coast. However, the last settler, Alphonsus Swyers, was forced to abandon it in 1973.
Barachois Pond Provincial Park is a provincial park that is considered to be a model forest.
Marble Mountain is a major attraction in the winter for skiers. It is said to be the best skiing east of the
Rocky Mountains.
In March, the annual seal hunt takes place.
Newfoundland is also host to a well-recognized university,
Memorial University of Newfoundland, based in
St. John's.
Largest Municipalities- St. John's
- Mount Pearl
- Corner Brook
- Conception Bay South
- Grand Falls-Windsor
- Gander
- Paradise
- Stephenville
[i]
...
- Marystown
- Portugal Cove-St. Philip's
- Torbay
- Bay Roberts
- Clarenville
...
- Deer Lake
- Carbonear
- Channel-Port aux Basques
- Placentia
- Bonavista
- Bishop's Falls
Newfoundland Tourism Commercials
Further reading
- Prowse, D.W. 2002. A History of Newfoundland. Boulder Publications, Portugal Cove, Newfoundland.
- Neary, Peter. 1996. Newfoundland in the North Atlantic world, 1929-1949. McGill-Queen's University Press, Montreal, Quebec.
- Gibbons, Henry K. 1997. The Myth and Mystery of John Cabot: The Discoverer of North America, Marten Cat Publishers, Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland.
- Harris, Michael. 1992. Rare Ambition: The Crosbies of Newfoundland. Penguin. ISBN 0-14-023220-6
Vintage literature
- Charles Pedley, History of Newfoundland,
- Philip Tocque, Newfoundland as it Was and Is,
- Joseph Hatton and Moses Harvey, Newfoundland: Its History and Present Condition,
- Arnold Kennedy, Sport and Adventure in Newfoundland and West Indies,
- D. W. Prowse, History of Newfoundland,
- Moses Harvey, Newfoundland, England's Oldest Colony,
- F. E. Smith, The Story of Newfoundland,
- Beckles Wilson, The Truth About Newfoundland, The Tenth Island,
- J. P. Howley, Mineral Resources of Newfoundland,
- P. T. McGrath, Newfound in 1911,
- Kevin Major, As Near To Heaven by Sea,
- John Gimlette, Theatre of Fish, . ISBN 0-09-179519-2
References
Renouf, M.A.P. 1999 Prehistory of Newfoundland Hunter-Gatherers: Extinctions or Adaptations?
World Archaeology 30: 403-420.
See also
External links
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