Mont Maudit
Encyclopedia
Mont Maudit is a mountain
in the Mont Blanc massif
in France
and Italy
. Until the end of the 18th century, Mont Blanc
and its satellite peaks were collectively known in French as the Montagne Maudite.
The first ascent
of Mont Maudit was by a British
party comprising Henry Seymour King
and the lawyer/diplomat William Edward Davidson with guides Johann Jaun and Johann von Bergen on 12 September 1878. The route they took was via the south ridge, during an ascent of Mont Blanc by the Corridor route.
The southern side of the mountain is considerably steeper than the gentle snow slopes of the northern side and features the well-known south-east or Frontier ridge (also known as the Kuffner ridge, D). This route was first climbed by Moriz von Kuffner
with guides Alexander Burgener and Josef Furrer from 2–4 July 1887. George Mallory
, in a party led by R. L. G. Irving
, made the third ascent of the route in 1911. Ascents of the ridge start from the hut on the Col du Trident and take at least seven to eight hours.
The mountain in served by the following huts:
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
in the Mont Blanc massif
Mont Blanc Massif
The Mont Blanc massif is a mountain range in the western Alps. It is named after Mont Blanc, at 4,810.45 m the highest summit of the Alps. It is located in France , Italy , and Switzerland...
in France
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
and Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
. Until the end of the 18th century, Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco , meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps, Western Europe and the European Union. It rises above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence...
and its satellite peaks were collectively known in French as the Montagne Maudite.
The first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
of Mont Maudit was by a British
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages...
party comprising Henry Seymour King
Sir Henry King, 1st Baronet
Sir Henry Seymour King, 1st Baronet KCIE was an English banker, mountaineer and Conservative politician.King was born at Brighton, the son of Henry Samuel King. He was educated at Charterhouse School and Balliol College, Oxford, where he won an oratory gold medal. He joined his father in the...
and the lawyer/diplomat William Edward Davidson with guides Johann Jaun and Johann von Bergen on 12 September 1878. The route they took was via the south ridge, during an ascent of Mont Blanc by the Corridor route.
The southern side of the mountain is considerably steeper than the gentle snow slopes of the northern side and features the well-known south-east or Frontier ridge (also known as the Kuffner ridge, D). This route was first climbed by Moriz von Kuffner
Moriz von Kuffner
Moriz von Kuffner was a Jewish-Austrian industrialist, art collector, mountaineer and philanthropist. From the 1880s to the early 1910s he made a fortune in the brewery business, and became a significant sponsor of Vienna's social and cultural life as well as a mentor of astronomy...
with guides Alexander Burgener and Josef Furrer from 2–4 July 1887. George Mallory
George Mallory
George Herbert Leigh Mallory was an English mountaineer who took part in the first three British expeditions to Mount Everest in the early 1920s....
, in a party led by R. L. G. Irving
Robert Lock Graham Irving
Robert Lock Graham Irving , was an English schoolmaster, writer and mountaineer. As an author, he used the name R. L. G. Irving, while to his friends he was Graham Irving.-Life and family:...
, made the third ascent of the route in 1911. Ascents of the ridge start from the hut on the Col du Trident and take at least seven to eight hours.
The mountain in served by the following huts:
- Refuge des Cosmiques (3,613 m, guarded February–October)
- Abri Simond Bivouac (beside the Refuge des Cosmiques and open in winter when the Refuge is closed)
- Rifugio Torino (3,322 m/3,375 m, 2 huts: a lower and older one and an upper, newer hut, connected by a tunnel)
- Bivacco Lucia e Piero Ghiglione (3,690 m, guarded 20 June–20 September, also known as the Trident hut) - now not there; this bivouac hut was removed in the 1990s
- Bivacco Alberico e Brogna (3,679 m, also known as the Bivouac de la Fourche)