Kokoda Track
Encyclopedia
The Kokoda Trail or Track is a single-file foot thoroughfare that runs 96 kilometres (60 mi) overland — 60 kilometres (37 mi) in a straight line — through the Owen Stanley Range
in Papua New Guinea
. The track is the most famous in Papua New Guinea and is known for being the location of the World War II battle between Japanese
and Australian
forces in 1942.
The track starts, or ends, at Owens Corner in Central Province
, 50 kilometres (31 mi) east of Port Moresby
, and then crosses rugged and isolated terrain, which is only passable on foot, to the village of Kokoda
in Oro Province
. It reaches a height of 2190 metres (7,185 ft) as it passes around the peak of Mount Bellamy
.
Hot, humid days with intensely cold nights, torrential rainfall and the risk of endemic tropical diseases
such as malaria
make it a challenge to walk. Despite the challenge posed it is a popular hike that takes between four and twelve days (depending on fitness). Locals have been known to hike the route in three days.
The track was first used by European miners in the 1890s to access the Yodda Kokoda goldfields. Between July 1942 and January 1943, a series of battles, afterwards called the Kokoda Track Campaign
, were fought between the Japanese
and Australian
forces. This action was memorialised in the newsreel
documentary
Kokoda Front Line!, filmed by cameraman Damien Parer
, which won Australia
's first Academy Award
for its director Ken G. Hall
in 1942.
After the war the track fell into disuse and disappeared in many places. John Landy
, the long-distance runner, set a record of four days for the crossing using carriers and guides during the 1950s, and in 1964 Angus Henry, the art teacher at Sogeri High School with two of his students, John Kadiba and Misty Baloiloi, set a new record which was to stand until after the millennium by completing the journey in three and a quarter days without guides, carriers or any signposts or bridges.
In recent years walking the track has become a pilgrimage for Australians of all ages. The Kokoda Track Foundation was established by Charlie Lynn
, a member of the New South Wales Legislative Council
, in 2003. The aims of the foundation are to promote education, health and sporting initiatives designed to enhance the well-being, future and enjoyment of the local communities living along the Kokoda Track.
There is a proposal to turn the track into an Australian heritage destination on a par with ANZAC Cove
at Gallipoli
. Creation of the heritage area, is in part response to the issue of an Australian gold mining company wanting to mine on or near the track. Currently the idea is backed by the Australian government and Papua New Guinea's foreign minister.
In November 2007 Australian mining firm Frontier Resources announced plans to divert a section of the track to make way for a copper
mine. The plan has the support of the local landowners and the Papua New Guinean government but has been criticized by trekking operators. Former Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd
has said he will lobby the Papua New Guinea Prime Minister Sir Michael Somare
to stop the proposed move.
The track has been closed numerous times by villagers along the route in response to various grievances. In May 2009 villagers at Kovelo - near Kokoda village - blocked the track after complaints that money collected from trekking fees was not being distributed fairly.
As popularity for walking the track has increased there have been calls for more regulation of trek operators with some operators taking as many as 150 walkers in a group. In response the Kokoda Track Authority has announced that from the beginning of 2010 tour operators must have a commercial licence which will "address things such as training requirements and first aid details".
In August 2009 the Kokoda Track was the destination for a group of trekkers that were killed when their light plane, Airlines PNG Flight 4684
, crashed en route to Kokoda village. All 13 people on board, including 9 Australian trekkers, were killed in the crash. As a result, the Australian Government committed $1.8 million to improve safety along the track. Funds would be used to improve the safety of airstrips at Kokoda
, Menari, Kagi, Melei, Efogi, and Naduri, all towns located along the track. A second radio channel would also be installed to deal with emergencies and maintenance work.
In October 2009 Mr. Don Vale became the oldest Australian (at 83) to successfully complete the Kokoda Track.
In November 2009, Australian paralympian Kurt Fearnley
(born without the lower section of his spine ) completed the track,crawling north to south, in 11 days. A multiple paralympic gold medalist (T54 Marathon in Athens and Beijing), he used customized shin pads and wrist guards. His journey was to raise awareness of men's health issues and was inspired by the story of Corporal John Metson, who crawled the track for three weeks, refusing the assistance of a stretcher on the grounds it would burden his comrades.
There has been much debate in Australia about whether it should be called the "Kokoda Trail" or the "Kokoda Track". The monument at Owers Corner uses both terms: "Track" on one side and "Trail" on the other.
"Kokoda Trail" was gazetted as the official name of the route by the Australian administration of Papua New Guinea in 1972.
The earliest mention of the route in an Australian newspaper may be in The Argus
on Wednesday 29 July 1942 in a map when it refers to "the Buna Kokoda-Moresby track".
According to historian Stuart Hawthorne, before World War II, the route was referred to as "the overland mail route" or "the Buna
road". He states that "Kokoda Trail" became common because of its use in Australian newspapers during the war, the first known instance being in Sydney's Daily Mirror on 27 October 1942.
However all three terms Kokoda Track, Kokoda Trail and Buna-Kokoda road were commonly used during World War II in Australian newspapers from September 1942.
The diary of the Australian Army's 2/33rd Battalion records the route being officially designated as the "Kokoda Trail" in September 1942. The Australian Army has used "Kokoda Trail" as a battle honour since 1957. The Australian War Memorial (AWM) says that "trail
" is probably of United States origin but has been used in many Australian history books and "appears to be used more widely".
Despite the historical use of "Trail", "Track" gained dominance in the 1990s, with the Australian Macquarie Dictionary
stating that while both versions were in use, Kokoda Track "appears to be the more popular of the two".
The track can be walked from either direction. Some say that from Kokoda to Owers Corner is easier, even though in that direction you actually have to climb an extra 550 metres in height.
The track can take anything from 4 days to 12 days to complete, depending on fitness and rest time involved. Locals are renowned for being able to regularly complete it in 3 days. The best time to trek Kokoda is from April to September, during the 'dry' season.
There are a number of guesthouses located along the way, some at villages and others at traditional rest spots. The main villages passed through (from Owers Corner) are Naoro, Menari, Efogi Creek 1 & 2, Kagi or Naduli (if shortcut is taken), Alolo, Isurava, Hoi, Kovolo. Villagers are increasingly taking part in the commercial opportunities created by the growing number of tourists; in October 2006, some were known to be selling cans of soft drink and beer at double the price payable in Port Moresby.
Guides and porters can be found more easily at the Kokoda end of the track by asking the local police station for a reputable person.
The Kokoda Track Authority (the PNG Special Purpose Authority with responsibility for managing the Track) requires tour operators to hold a Commercial Operators License to led treks along the Kokoda Track and purchase a trek permit. Licensed operators carry first aid kits, undertake first aid training, carry radios and/or satellite phones, respect the people who live along the Track and ensure their porters and guides are treated in a professional manner. A list of licensed operators is available on its web site.. Trekkers walking with unlicensed operators will be stopped by the KTA Rangers and the local people.
Papua New Guinean locals wanted the record reclaimed for themselves, and this was achieved in the inaugural race of 2005 and then broken in subsequent races. The current race record holder in both directions is Brendan Buka, with a best time of 16:34.05 in 2008 from Owers Corner to Kokoda.
The race runners are required to complete the full 96 km and pass through seven check-points at Isurava, Templeton Crossing One, Myola, Efogi One, Old Nauro, Va’ule Creek and Goldie River.
, conquered the trail from Owers Corner to Kokoda in a winning time of 17 hours, 49 minutes and 17 seconds. A Sydney engineer, Damon Goerke, 32 became the first Australian to run the track in under 24 hours, coming third in the 2006 challenge with a time of just under 19.5 hours.
Owen Stanley Range
Owen Stanley Range is the south-eastern part of the central mountain-chain in Papua New Guinea. It was seen in 1849 by Captain Owen Stanley while surveying the south coast of Papua and named after him. Strictly, the eastern extremity of the range is Mount Victoria , which was climbed by Sir William...
in Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea , officially the Independent State of Papua New Guinea, is a country in Oceania, occupying the eastern half of the island of New Guinea and numerous offshore islands...
. The track is the most famous in Papua New Guinea and is known for being the location of the World War II battle between Japanese
Imperial Japanese Army
-Foundation:During the Meiji Restoration, the military forces loyal to the Emperor were samurai drawn primarily from the loyalist feudal domains of Satsuma and Chōshū...
and Australian
Australian Army
The Australian Army is Australia's military land force. It is part of the Australian Defence Force along with the Royal Australian Navy and the Royal Australian Air Force. While the Chief of Defence commands the Australian Defence Force , the Army is commanded by the Chief of Army...
forces in 1942.
The track starts, or ends, at Owens Corner in Central Province
Central Province (Papua New Guinea)
Central Province is a province in Papua New Guinea located on the southern coast of the country. It has a population of 183,983 people and is in size. The seat of government of Central Province, which is located within the National Capital District outside the province, is the Port Moresby suburb...
, 50 kilometres (31 mi) east of Port Moresby
Port Moresby
Port Moresby , or Pot Mosbi in Tok Pisin, is the capital and largest city of Papua New Guinea . It is located on the shores of the Gulf of Papua, on the southeastern coast of the island of New Guinea, which made it a prime objective for conquest by the Imperial Japanese forces during 1942–43...
, and then crosses rugged and isolated terrain, which is only passable on foot, to the village of Kokoda
Kokoda
Kokoda is a station town in the Oro Province of Papua New Guinea. It is famous as the northern end of the Kokoda Track, site of the eponymous Kokoda Track campaign of World War II. In that campaign, it had strategic significance because it had the only airfield along the Track...
in Oro Province
Oro Province
Oro Province, formerly Northern Province, is a coastal province of Papua New Guinea. The provincial capital is Popondetta. The province covers 22,800 km², and has 133,065 inhabitants ....
. It reaches a height of 2190 metres (7,185 ft) as it passes around the peak of Mount Bellamy
Mount Bellamy
Mount Bellamy is a mountain in the Owen Stanley Range in south-eastern Papua New Guinea. The mountain rises to 2,250 metres ....
.
Hot, humid days with intensely cold nights, torrential rainfall and the risk of endemic tropical diseases
Infectious disease
Infectious diseases, also known as communicable diseases, contagious diseases or transmissible diseases comprise clinically evident illness resulting from the infection, presence and growth of pathogenic biological agents in an individual host organism...
such as malaria
Malaria
Malaria is a mosquito-borne infectious disease of humans and other animals caused by eukaryotic protists of the genus Plasmodium. The disease results from the multiplication of Plasmodium parasites within red blood cells, causing symptoms that typically include fever and headache, in severe cases...
make it a challenge to walk. Despite the challenge posed it is a popular hike that takes between four and twelve days (depending on fitness). Locals have been known to hike the route in three days.
History
| Year | Walkers |
|---|---|
| 2001 | 76 |
| 2002 | 365 |
| 2003 | 1074 |
| 2004 | 1584 |
| 2005 | 2374 |
| 2006 | 3747 |
| 2007 | 5146 |
| 2008 | > 5600 |
| 2009 | > 4364 |
The track was first used by European miners in the 1890s to access the Yodda Kokoda goldfields. Between July 1942 and January 1943, a series of battles, afterwards called the Kokoda Track Campaign
Kokoda Track campaign
The Kokoda Track campaign or Kokoda Trail campaign was part of the Pacific War of World War II. The campaign consisted of a series of battles fought between July and November 1942 between Japanese and Allied—primarily Australian—forces in what was then the Australian territory of Papua...
, were fought between the Japanese
Imperial Japanese Army
-Foundation:During the Meiji Restoration, the military forces loyal to the Emperor were samurai drawn primarily from the loyalist feudal domains of Satsuma and Chōshū...
and Australian
Australian Army
The Australian Army is Australia's military land force. It is part of the Australian Defence Force along with the Royal Australian Navy and the Royal Australian Air Force. While the Chief of Defence commands the Australian Defence Force , the Army is commanded by the Chief of Army...
forces. This action was memorialised in the newsreel
Newsreel
A newsreel was a form of short documentary film prevalent in the first half of the 20th century, regularly released in a public presentation place and containing filmed news stories and items of topical interest. It was a source of news, current affairs and entertainment for millions of moviegoers...
documentary
Documentary film
Documentary films constitute a broad category of nonfictional motion pictures intended to document some aspect of reality, primarily for the purposes of instruction or maintaining a historical record...
Kokoda Front Line!, filmed by cameraman Damien Parer
Damien Parer
Damien Peter Parer was an Australian war photographer. He became famous for his war photography of the Second World War, and was killed by Japanese machinegun fire at Peleliu, Palau. He married Elizabeth Marie Cotter on 23 March 1944, and his son, producer Damien Parer, was born after his father...
, which won Australia
Australia
Australia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
's first Academy Award
Academy Awards
An Academy Award, also known as an Oscar, is an accolade bestowed by the American Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences to recognize excellence of professionals in the film industry, including directors, actors, and writers...
for its director Ken G. Hall
Ken G. Hall
Kenneth George Hall, AO OBE , better known as Ken G. Hall, was an Australian film director, considered one of the most important figures in the history of the Australian film industry.-Early years:...
in 1942.
John Landy
John Michael Landy, AC, CVO, MBE is an Australian former Olympic track athlete. He was the second man to break the four-minute mile barrier in the mile run, and he held the world records for the 1500 metre run and the mile race...
, the long-distance runner, set a record of four days for the crossing using carriers and guides during the 1950s, and in 1964 Angus Henry, the art teacher at Sogeri High School with two of his students, John Kadiba and Misty Baloiloi, set a new record which was to stand until after the millennium by completing the journey in three and a quarter days without guides, carriers or any signposts or bridges.
In recent years walking the track has become a pilgrimage for Australians of all ages. The Kokoda Track Foundation was established by Charlie Lynn
Charlie Lynn
Charlie John Stuart Lynn is an Australian politician and Liberal Party of Australia member of the New South Wales Legislative Council. Lynn has been an MLC since 19 October 1995.-Personal history:...
, a member of the New South Wales Legislative Council
New South Wales Legislative Council
The New South Wales Legislative Council, or upper house, is one of the two chambers of the parliament of New South Wales in Australia. The other is the Legislative Assembly. Both sit at Parliament House in the state capital, Sydney. The Assembly is referred to as the lower house and the Council as...
, in 2003. The aims of the foundation are to promote education, health and sporting initiatives designed to enhance the well-being, future and enjoyment of the local communities living along the Kokoda Track.
There is a proposal to turn the track into an Australian heritage destination on a par with ANZAC Cove
Anzac Cove
Anzac Cove is a small cove on the Gallipoli peninsula in Turkey. It became famous as the site of World War I landing of the ANZAC on April 25, 1915. The cove is a mere long, bounded by the headlands of Ari Burnu to the north and Little Ari Burnu, known as Hell Spit, to the south...
at Gallipoli
Gallipoli
The Gallipoli peninsula is located in Turkish Thrace , the European part of Turkey, with the Aegean Sea to the west and the Dardanelles straits to the east. Gallipoli derives its name from the Greek "Καλλίπολις" , meaning "Beautiful City"...
. Creation of the heritage area, is in part response to the issue of an Australian gold mining company wanting to mine on or near the track. Currently the idea is backed by the Australian government and Papua New Guinea's foreign minister.
In November 2007 Australian mining firm Frontier Resources announced plans to divert a section of the track to make way for a copper
Copper
Copper is a chemical element with the symbol Cu and atomic number 29. It is a ductile metal with very high thermal and electrical conductivity. Pure copper is soft and malleable; an exposed surface has a reddish-orange tarnish...
mine. The plan has the support of the local landowners and the Papua New Guinean government but has been criticized by trekking operators. Former Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd
Kevin Rudd
Kevin Michael Rudd is an Australian politician who was the 26th Prime Minister of Australia from 2007 to 2010. He has been Minister for Foreign Affairs since 2010...
has said he will lobby the Papua New Guinea Prime Minister Sir Michael Somare
Michael Somare
Sir Michael Thomas Somare, GCL, GCMG, CH, CF, KStJ, MP was Prime Minister of Papua New Guinea from 2002 to 2011; he had previously been Prime Minister from independence in 1975 until 1980 and again from 1982 until 1985. Somare's first two terms were as a member of the Pangu Party, but he then...
to stop the proposed move.
The track has been closed numerous times by villagers along the route in response to various grievances. In May 2009 villagers at Kovelo - near Kokoda village - blocked the track after complaints that money collected from trekking fees was not being distributed fairly.
Popularity and deaths
Since 2001 there has been a rapid increase in the number of people walking the track (see table right). Six Australian trekkers have died from natural causes while attempting to walk the track. Four of those deaths have occurred in 2009, with two in the same week in April and another two 8 days apart in September and October. The deaths have sparked calls for mandatory fitness tests for all walkers before starting.As popularity for walking the track has increased there have been calls for more regulation of trek operators with some operators taking as many as 150 walkers in a group. In response the Kokoda Track Authority has announced that from the beginning of 2010 tour operators must have a commercial licence which will "address things such as training requirements and first aid details".
In August 2009 the Kokoda Track was the destination for a group of trekkers that were killed when their light plane, Airlines PNG Flight 4684
Airlines PNG Flight 4684
Airlines PNG Flight 4684 was a passenger flight which crashed near Kokoda Airport, Oro Province, Papua New Guinea on 11 August 2009, killing all eleven passengers and two crew....
, crashed en route to Kokoda village. All 13 people on board, including 9 Australian trekkers, were killed in the crash. As a result, the Australian Government committed $1.8 million to improve safety along the track. Funds would be used to improve the safety of airstrips at Kokoda
Kokoda
Kokoda is a station town in the Oro Province of Papua New Guinea. It is famous as the northern end of the Kokoda Track, site of the eponymous Kokoda Track campaign of World War II. In that campaign, it had strategic significance because it had the only airfield along the Track...
, Menari, Kagi, Melei, Efogi, and Naduri, all towns located along the track. A second radio channel would also be installed to deal with emergencies and maintenance work.
In October 2009 Mr. Don Vale became the oldest Australian (at 83) to successfully complete the Kokoda Track.
In November 2009, Australian paralympian Kurt Fearnley
Kurt Fearnley
Kurt Fearnley OAM is an Australian wheelchair racer, who competes at the Olympic level. At the 2004 Olympic Games, he finished 5th in the demonstration sport of Men's 1500m wheelchair...
(born without the lower section of his spine ) completed the track,crawling north to south, in 11 days. A multiple paralympic gold medalist (T54 Marathon in Athens and Beijing), he used customized shin pads and wrist guards. His journey was to raise awareness of men's health issues and was inspired by the story of Corporal John Metson, who crawled the track for three weeks, refusing the assistance of a stretcher on the grounds it would burden his comrades.
Kokoda Track or Trail?
"Kokoda Trail" was gazetted as the official name of the route by the Australian administration of Papua New Guinea in 1972.
The earliest mention of the route in an Australian newspaper may be in The Argus
The Argus (Australia)
The Argus was a morning daily newspaper in Melbourne established in 1846 and closed in 1957. Widely known as a conservative newspaper for most of its history, it adopted a left leaning approach from 1949...
on Wednesday 29 July 1942 in a map when it refers to "the Buna Kokoda-Moresby track".
According to historian Stuart Hawthorne, before World War II, the route was referred to as "the overland mail route" or "the Buna
Buna, Papua New Guinea
Buna is a village in Oro Province, Papua New Guinea. It was the site in part, of the Battle of Buna-Gona during World War II, when it constituted a variety of native huts and a handful of houses with a airstrip...
road". He states that "Kokoda Trail" became common because of its use in Australian newspapers during the war, the first known instance being in Sydney's Daily Mirror on 27 October 1942.
However all three terms Kokoda Track, Kokoda Trail and Buna-Kokoda road were commonly used during World War II in Australian newspapers from September 1942.
The diary of the Australian Army's 2/33rd Battalion records the route being officially designated as the "Kokoda Trail" in September 1942. The Australian Army has used "Kokoda Trail" as a battle honour since 1957. The Australian War Memorial (AWM) says that "trail
Trail
A trail is a path with a rough beaten or dirt/stone surface used for travel. Trails may be for use only by walkers and in some places are the main access route to remote settlements...
" is probably of United States origin but has been used in many Australian history books and "appears to be used more widely".
Despite the historical use of "Trail", "Track" gained dominance in the 1990s, with the Australian Macquarie Dictionary
Macquarie Dictionary
The Macquarie Dictionary is a dictionary of Australian English. It also pays considerable attention to New Zealand English. Originally it was a publishing project of Jacaranda Press, a Brisbane educational publisher, for which an editorial committee was formed, largely from the Linguistics...
stating that while both versions were in use, Kokoda Track "appears to be the more popular of the two".
Trekking
The track can take anything from 4 days to 12 days to complete, depending on fitness and rest time involved. Locals are renowned for being able to regularly complete it in 3 days. The best time to trek Kokoda is from April to September, during the 'dry' season.
There are a number of guesthouses located along the way, some at villages and others at traditional rest spots. The main villages passed through (from Owers Corner) are Naoro, Menari, Efogi Creek 1 & 2, Kagi or Naduli (if shortcut is taken), Alolo, Isurava, Hoi, Kovolo. Villagers are increasingly taking part in the commercial opportunities created by the growing number of tourists; in October 2006, some were known to be selling cans of soft drink and beer at double the price payable in Port Moresby.
Guides and porters can be found more easily at the Kokoda end of the track by asking the local police station for a reputable person.
The Kokoda Track Authority (the PNG Special Purpose Authority with responsibility for managing the Track) requires tour operators to hold a Commercial Operators License to led treks along the Kokoda Track and purchase a trek permit. Licensed operators carry first aid kits, undertake first aid training, carry radios and/or satellite phones, respect the people who live along the Track and ensure their porters and guides are treated in a professional manner. A list of licensed operators is available on its web site.. Trekkers walking with unlicensed operators will be stopped by the KTA Rangers and the local people.
Kokoda Challenge Race
The Kokoda Challenge Race is an endurance running race that was revived on 27 August 2005. The race originally ran in 1975 but stopped before becoming an annual event. Renewed interest in running the track was created when Australian Brian Freeman, the CEO of a Brisbane based Kokoda trekking company, broke the track record in August 2004 with a time just under 25 hours.Papua New Guinean locals wanted the record reclaimed for themselves, and this was achieved in the inaugural race of 2005 and then broken in subsequent races. The current race record holder in both directions is Brendan Buka, with a best time of 16:34.05 in 2008 from Owers Corner to Kokoda.
The race runners are required to complete the full 96 km and pass through seven check-points at Isurava, Templeton Crossing One, Myola, Efogi One, Old Nauro, Va’ule Creek and Goldie River.
| Direction | Record holder | Record time | Year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kokoda to Owers Corner | Brendan Buka | 17:20 | 2007 |
| Owers Corner to Kokoda | Brendan Buka | 16:34.05 | 2008 |
2005
The inaugural race of 27 August 2005 was won by John Hunt Hiviki, who completed it in 22 hours, one minute and 14 seconds.2006
On 27 August 2006, Brendan Buka, a 22-year-old Papua New Guinean trekking porter from KokodaKokoda
Kokoda is a station town in the Oro Province of Papua New Guinea. It is famous as the northern end of the Kokoda Track, site of the eponymous Kokoda Track campaign of World War II. In that campaign, it had strategic significance because it had the only airfield along the Track...
, conquered the trail from Owers Corner to Kokoda in a winning time of 17 hours, 49 minutes and 17 seconds. A Sydney engineer, Damon Goerke, 32 became the first Australian to run the track in under 24 hours, coming third in the 2006 challenge with a time of just under 19.5 hours.