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Kodungallur
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Kodungallur (anglicised name: Cranganore ) is a city and a municipality in the Thrissur district in the Indian state of Kerala. It was known in ancient times as, Mahodayapuram, Shinkli, Muchiri (anglicised to Muziris) and Muyirikkodu. Muchiripattinam was a famous and prosperous sea-port at the mouth of the Periyar (also known as Choorni Nadi) river in the southern Indian state of Kerala. It is located about 38 km from the present day city of Kochi at upon NH 17.
The name Muchiri (Malayalam for cleft lip) denotes the three branches of the Periyar river which open into the Arabian Sea at the town.
ngallur is located at .
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Encyclopedia
Kodungallur (anglicised name: Cranganore ) is a city and a municipality in the Thrissur district in the Indian state of Kerala. It was known in ancient times as, Mahodayapuram, Shinkli, Muchiri (anglicised to Muziris) and Muyirikkodu. Muchiripattinam was a famous and prosperous sea-port at the mouth of the Periyar (also known as Choorni Nadi) river in the southern Indian state of Kerala. It is located about 38 km from the present day city of Kochi at upon NH 17.
The name Muchiri (Malayalam for cleft lip) denotes the three branches of the Periyar river which open into the Arabian Sea at the town.
Geography
Kodungallur is located at . It has an average elevation of 9 metres (29 feet).
Kodungallur is situated 35 km north of Kochi, 38 km south-west of Thrissur and 45 km south of Guruvayur near the Arabian Sea Shore.
Transportation
The coastal highway NH17 connecting Ernakulam and Mumbai passes through this town. Kodungallur is situated 38 km south of Thrissur and 35 km north of Ernakulam. Irinjalakuda is situated 16 km north, North Paravur is 12 km south, Chalakudy is 25 km east and the temple town of Guruvayoor is 48 km north of the town. The nearest railway station is Irinjalakuda and the airport is Cochin International
The Kollam - Kottapuram National Waterway III ends at Kodungallur. A terminus is located close to the Kottapuram bridge. It is expected that the waterway will bring down the cost of transportation of goods in Kerala.
A new bridge called Krishnankotta bridge has been opened here. It has reduced the distance between the towns of Kodungallur, Mala and Chalakudy. A new bridge at Thuruthipuram is under construction, which will open a new route to Angamaly. This road is expected to reduce the distance between Malabar and the Kochi international airport.
Ancient fame
The Bhagawati temple at Kodungallur is of great renown throughout the state of Kerala.
Kodungallur is important not only in the history of Kerala but also of India. It is mentioned in the epics Ramayana and Mahabharatha. The poets Pathanjali and Karthiyayan have referred to it in their poems; it also finds reference in the Chilappathikaram. Kodungallur is mentioned in the stone writings of Asoka as well and mention is found in the travelogues of both Pliny and Ptolemy under different names.
The Kodungallur temple is one of the four Devi temples which Bhargava Raman is said to have installed at the four boundaries of Kerala. The popular belief is that in order to save the devotees from the epidemic of chicken pox the Lokambika was installed in the Kodungallur temple by Bhargava Raman. This is one of those rare temples where the Brahmins are not performing the pooja.
Kodungallur was also the capital of Cheraman Perumal, the last Chera ruler, in the 7th century AD; he is believed to have been abdicated his throne and divided his kingdom among the local chieftains and left for Mecca to embrace Islam. This place was later ruled by Perumpadapu Swaroopam.
Kodungallur is situated on the west coast and was once a great port of the Chera rulers. Kodungallur was a critical trade link in Indian Ancient Maritime History. It was known as Muziris to Pliny the Elder (N.H. 6.26) who describes it as primum emorium Indiae.
The port was familiar to the author of the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea who described it as being situated on Pseudostomos river (?e?d?st?µ??: Greek for "false mouth" - a precise translation of the Malayalam description of the mouth of the Periyar, Alimukam) two miles from its mouth .
Studies by the archaeologist Dr. K.P. Shajan and his associate V. Selvakumar of the Centre for Heritage Studies, have unearthed the clues to this ancient port at a place called "Pattanam" (meaning 'The city' in Malayalam) around 10 km from Kodungallur. Among the many things unearthed are Roman amphora pieces, West Asian pottery (200 BC - 700 AD), Chinese Pottery (1700 AD), Rouletted Ware and copper coins. They also excavated a boat made of a single wood which gives the indications that the place was an erstwhile shore. The radio carbon dating shows the age of the boat to be approximately 2500 years. The brick structure excavated is a clear indication of early human settlement in this area.
The ancient Greek explorer, Hippalus landed at this port after discovering the patterns of the Indian monsoon trade winds on his way from the East coast of Africa. The evidence of the Peutinger Table suggests that there was a temple to the Roman emperor Augustus.
The Greeks, the Romans (known locally as the Yavanas), and the Jews all have come to this place at different times in its ancient history.
Roman gold and silver coins bearing impressions of Roman Emperors Tiberius and Nero were discovered in the village of Parur near the town during 2000.
A second-century papyrus from Egypt concerning the transshipment of goods originating in Muziris from the Red Sea to Alexandria attests to the continued importance of the port in the Indian Ocean commerce a century after Pliny and the Periplus.
Thomas the Apostle of Jesus with his followers is believed to have landed in Cranganore in the year AD 52 and preached the gospel. It thus became the earliest Nasrani Syrian Christian centre of Malabar; monuments built in the memory of Thomas still exist. The existence of a thriving Christian Community here attracted the attention of others and the Bishops who came from Persia chose this place for their residence. The bones of the right hand of St Thomas were placed in 1953 as a memento.
Malik Ibn Dinar and 20 others who were the followers of Prophet Muhammad, the founder of Islam, first landed here when they came to India. Islam received royal patronage in some states here, and later spread to other parts of India. He built a mosque there in the shape of a Hindu temple. It could also have been the first mosque in the Indian subcontinent as the exact date of making is not known but is believed to be in 629 AD. Though, generally it is considered to be the second mosque of the world after the mosque in Medina,Saudi Arabia
The Syrian Church was firmly established here before the 9th century. In fact the Jews' settlement in Kodungallur was still earlier. The latter, claimed to hold grants dated A.D. 378. The cruelty of the Portuguese drove most of the Jews to Cochin. Up to 1314, when the Vypin harbour was formed, the only opening in the Cochin backwater, and outlet for the Periyar, was at Kodungalur, which must then have been the best harbour on the coast. In 1502 the Syrian Christians invoked the protection of the Portuguese. With the influence of Portuguese, most of the Syrian Christians accepted Latin Rite in Kodungallur. Kodungallur was erected as an Archdiocese in 1609 but was annexed to the Vicariate of Verapoly in 1838 and further in 1886 the diocese itself was suppressed. In 1987 Archdiocese of Verapoly was bifurcated and the Diocese of Kottapuram was formed. Catholics in Kodungallur today belong to this diocese. In 1523 Portuguese built their first fort there, and in 1565 enlarged it. In 1661 the Dutch took the fort, the possession of which for the next forty years was contested between this nation, the zamorin, and the raja of Kodungalur. In 1776, Tipu Sultan seized the stronghold. The Dutch recaptured it two years later, and, having ceded it to Tipu Sultan in 1784, sold it to the Travancore raja, and again in 1789 to Tippoo, who destroyed it in the following year.
After Tipu's death, The Kodungallur Kovilakam controlled the lands of Kodungallur. Kodungallur then formed an autonomous principality subordinate to the Raja of Cochin and remained thus until Indian Independence in 1947. The Kodungallur Kovilakam was renowned as a centre of learning during this period. Scholars from all over Kerala came to live in the palaces and study Sanskrit and Vedic science.
Flood of 1341
The flood of the river Periyar in 1341 AD resulted in the splitting of the left branch of the river into two just before Aluva. The flood silted the right branch (known as River Changala) and the natural harbour at the mouth of the river, and resulted in the creation of a new harbour at Kochi. An island was formed with the name Vypinkara between Vypin to Munambam during the flood.
During this time there was the rise of the Samoothiri Rajas of Kozhikode. The town was nearly completely destroyed by the Portuguese (Suarez de Menezes) on September 1, 1504 in retaliation for the Samoothiri Raja's actions against them.
Perumpadapu Swaroopam still has their roots here.
The present day natural beauty of the place is enchanting, and it is a popular tourist destination today.
Politics
Kodungallur assembly constituency is part of Mukundapuram (Lok Sabha constituency).
Sights
The present day town has some very interesting monuments:
- Kodungallur Bagavathy temple - believed to have been constructed during the reign of Chera King, Cheran Senkuttuvan. This temple is famous for its Bharani and Thalappoli festival. The temple requires the pilgrim to carry pepper and turmeric powder as one of the offerings to the deity.
- The Bharani festival at the Kodungallur Bhagawati temple is one of the grandest in Kerala. It is a month of festivities from the Bharani asterism in the month of Aquarius to 7 days after the Bharani asterism in the month of Pisces. Traditionally, the temple (especially during the Bharani festival) has been associated with animal sacrifices. These customs have been done away with in the 20th century. The blood of the sacrificed used to be spilled over two stones in the prakaram, and as mentioned above, this practice is now stopped. William Logan, a social historian of Kerala, noted in 1887 that, "after Onam, the national festival, Kodungallur Bharani was the most important celebration in Kerala.
- Cheraman Jama Masjid - built around 629 AD by Malik Ibn Dinar in the typical local style of architecture and the bodies of some of the original followers are said to have been buried here. This is said to be the first mosque constructed in India.
- St. Mar Thomas Church - Christ's apostle, St Thomas landed in Kodungallur in 52 AD. The St.Thomas Church established by him houses ancient relics and is believed to the first Christian church in India. It is a famous church and very important among the Christians.
- Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva temple - One of the oldest Siva temples in south India where Lord Siva is said to live along with his whole family. This temple has got a healthy relation with south India's famous Chidambaram temple. This temple has another rare event called "Anayottam" (Elephant race) which is part of the annual festival.
- Edavilangu sivakrishnapuram temple- One of the oldest temples in kodungallur,actually this temple is under the Cochin Devaswom Board but now look after by the devotees of Edavilangu .Here,Lord Siva and Krishna are the main idols.
- Cranganore Fort- otherwise known as Kodungallur Fort, was built by the Portuguese in 1503, and was destroyed by Zamorin and Tipu sultan. Now remains only as relics.
- Valiya Thampuran Kovilakam-
- Bala Ganesapuram Ganapathi temple-
Various names
Kodungallur has enjoyed various names over the past millennia. In addition to those mentioned previously, these are Jangli, Gingaleh, Cyngilin, Shinkali, Chinkli/Jinkali, Shenkala, Cynkali, (These names are derived from the name of the river Changala [or Chain i.e., Shringala in Sanskrit], which originates at Kanjur from River Periyar [Periyar was known as Choorni in Sanskrit and Chulli (Ref: Poem No 149, Akananuru of Sangam literature) in ancient Dravidian language]) Columguria, Vangi, Musirippattanam, Mahodayapuram, Kotilingapuram, Kudalingapuram, Makodai, Kodunkaliyur, Thiruvallur, RaviVisvapuram and Balakreetapuram. There is also a belief that the name Kodungallur is derived from Kodi-linga-puram (10 million Siva Lingas). There is mention in Sangam literature of a ruler with the name Kudako (Ruler of Kudanad - the land between River Periyar and River Ponnani). Kodungallur was the revenue collection center of Kudako for the goods coming to the port, hence the name Kudakonallur which later reduced to Kodugallur. The world famous "Tazhapaya" market "Edavilangu" is situated in Konducalloor Taluk
Demographics
India census, Kodungallur had a population of 33,543. Males constitute 47% of the population and females 53%. Kodungallur has an average literacy rate of 83%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 86%, and female literacy is 81%. In Kodungallur, 10% of the population is under 6 years of age.
Satellite image
See also
External links
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