Hair coloring is used:
- to return gray hair to its previous color;
- to change hair color to a shade regarded as more fashionable or desirable;
- to return hair to its original color after chemicals (e.g. tints, relaxers, sun bleaching) have discolored it.
History
In the 1661 book
Eighteen books of the secrets of art & nature, various methods of coloring hair black, green, pink, red, yellow, and white are explained.
Types of hair color
Hair coloring products are typically categorized based on how long the color persists in the hair, and how much lifting occurs. The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent', 'demi-permanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only') and "permanent".
Temporary hair color
Temporary hair color is available as rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and foams among others. This type of hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent and permanent hair color. Temporary color is most often used to color hair for special occasions and is often used in unusual shades for events, parties and
HalloweenHalloween is an annual holiday celebrated on October 31. It has roots in the Gaelic pagan festival of Samhain and the Christian holy day of All Saints. It is largely a secular celebration but some have expressed strong feelings about perceived religious overtones...
.
The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and cannot penetrate the cuticle layer. Instead, the color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair shaft and are easily removed with a single shampooing.
However, even temporary hair color can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or damaged, allowing for migration of the pigments to the interior of the hair shaft.
Semi-permanent hair color
Semi-permanent hair dye has smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to partially penetrate the hair shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing, typically 4-5 shampoos. Semi-permanents contain no, or very low levels of developer, peroxide or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may still contain the toxic compound
P-Phenylenediaminep-Phenylenediamine is an aromatic amine used as a component of engineering polymers and composites, aramid fibers, hair dyes, rubber chemicals, textile dyes, and pigments. PPD is selected because of its high temperature stability, high strength, and chemical and electrical resistance...
or other such ingredients.
The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point where it will not be disguised as well..
In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semi-permanent as a base and adding highlights.
Semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair.
Demi-Permanent hair color
Demi-permanent hair color is, in fact, permanent hair dye mixed with low volume (usually a 7 volume) developer that blows off the ammonia from the permanent tube so that only color molecules penetrate the hair shaft.
Demi-permanents are much more effective at covering gray hair than semi-permanents, but less so than permanents.
Demi-permanents have several advantages over permanent color. Because there is no lifting of natural hair color, the final color is less solid than a permanent and therefore more natural looking (although that also means they may be less effective on dark hair); they are gentler on the hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve.
However, demi-permanent hair colors must be used with caution because they are, in essence, permanent color and the darker shades in particular may persist longer than indicated on the packet.
Permanent color
All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing agent
ammoniaAmmonia is a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen with the formula NH
3. It is normally encountered as a gas with a characteristic pungent odor. Ammonia contributes significantly to the nutritional needs of terrestrial organisms by serving as a precursor to foodstuffs and fertilizers...
.
When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer (usually
hydrogen peroxideHydrogen peroxide is a very pale blue liquid, slightly more viscous than water, that appears colorless in dilute solution. It is a weak acid, has strong oxidizing properties, and is a powerful bleaching agent. It is used as a disinfectant, antiseptic, oxidizer, and in rocketry as a propellant...
), the peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses through the hair fiber, entering the cortex, where the
melaninMelanin is a class of compounds found in plants, animals, and protists, where it serves predominantly as a pigment. The class of pigments are derivatives of the amino acid tyrosine. Many melanins are insoluble salts and show affinity to water...
is located. Lightening occurs when the peroxide breaks up the melanin and replaces it with new color.
The ammonia opens the cuticle of the hair to allow the color pigments to penetrate deep into the hair shaft.
Permanent color is truly permanent and will not wash out, although it may fade. New hair regrowth will obviously be in the hair's natural color, meaning that regular monthly or six-weekly coloring will be essential for as long as the hair color is maintained.
Permanent haircolor is the only way to dye dark hair into a lighter shade, and it must be done in two parts: First, the hair is bleached, then color is applied.
The only way to get rid of permanent color is to undergo a
stripping processHair dye stripping, commonly known as color correction, is a process used to rid the hair of unwanted color. Certain hair colors such as black, red, blue, purple and dark browns often can cause problems for a person seeking to change his or her hair color back to the original color.-Procedure:Hair...
(which is not possible with all colors and can damage the hair) or color it back to its natural color (which can be difficult if the color change has been extreme).
Hair lighteners and bleaches
"Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the
hairHair is a protein filament that grows through the epidermis from follicles deep within the dermis. The fine, soft hair found on many nonhuman mammals is typically called fur; wool is the characteristically curly hair found on sheep and goats. Found exclusively in mammals, hair is one of the...
plus the raising of the cuticle making the hair more porous.
Application techniques
Hair color was traditionally applied to the hair as one overall color. The modern trend is to use several colors to produce streaks or gradations, either on top of the natural color or on top of a single base color. These are referred to as:
- Highlighting, where sections of hair are treated with lighteners, usually to create blond streaks.
- Lowlighting, where sections of hair are treated with darker hair color.
These can be applied by the following methods:
- Foils, where pieces of foil or plastic film are used to separate off the hair to be colored; especially when applying more than one color.
- Cap, when a plastic cap is placed tight on the head and strands are pulled through with a hook.
- Balayage, where hair color is painted directly onto sections of the hair with no foils used to keep the color contained.
All application techniques can be used with any type of color. For highlights, the hair will usually have to be bleached before coloring.
Exotic hair colorants
A minority of hair coloring products are designed to create hair colors not typically found in nature. These are available in almost any color imaginable, including green or fuchsia.
These dyes are typically sold in
punkThe punk subculture is a subculture based around punk rock. It includes music, ideologies, fashion, visual art, dance, literature and film. The punk scene is composed of an assortment of smaller factions that distinguish themselves from one another through unique variations...
-themed stores (such as
comic bookA comic book is a magazine made up of narrative artwork, often accompanied by dialog and often including brief descriptive prose...
and
musicMusic is an art form whose medium is sound. Common elements of music are pitch , rhythm , dynamics, and the sonic qualities of timbre and texture...
stores), with brand names like "Beyond The Zone", "Splat", "Clairol Jazzing", "Manic Panic", "Special Effects", "Punky Colour". A permanent alternative in some colors (such as bold infa-red reds and dark, inky purples and blues) is available in the U.S. under "Paul Mitchel: Inkworks" and "Chi: InfaReds". Some exotic color shades are blacklight reactive, to show up under nightclub lighting.
The chemical formulae of exotic colored dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. This means that they will only create the bright color of the packet if they are applied to light blond hair. People with darker hair (medium brown to black) will need to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well. Gold, yellow and orange undertones in hair that hasn't been lightened enough can adversely affect results, especially with pinks, blues, and greens.
Adverse effects of hair coloring
Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. Use of these chemicals can result in a range of adverse effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin discoloration and unexpected hair color results.
Additionally, there is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences of hair color usage, including lead poisoning.
Skin irritation and allergy
In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin irritation.
Symptoms of these reactions can include redness, sores, itching, burning sensation and discomfort. If any of these symptoms occur, alert your hair colorist immediately so that they can remove the color. Symptoms will not always be present right at the application and processing of the tint but can also arise after hours or even a day.
To help prevent or limit allergic reactions, the majority of
hair colorHair color is the pigmentation of hair follicles due to two types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin. Generally, if more melanin is present, the color of the hair is darker; if less melanin is present, the hair is lighter...
products recommend that the client conduct a patch test before using the product. This involves mixing a small quantity of tint preparation and applying it directly to the skin for a period of 24 hours. If irritation develops, manufacturers recommend that the client not use the product. A skin patch test is advised before the use of every coloring process, since allergies can develop even after years of use with no reaction.
Adverse reactions can result from both at-home and salon hair coloring products, as similar chemicals are used in both settings.
In some cases, allergic reactions are caused by the aniline derivative and/or
p-Phenylenediaminep-Phenylenediamine is an aromatic amine used as a component of engineering polymers and composites, aramid fibers, hair dyes, rubber chemicals, textile dyes, and pigments. PPD is selected because of its high temperature stability, high strength, and chemical and electrical resistance...
(PPD) found in permanent hair color.
Hair breakage
Hair that has been damaged by excessive exposure to chemicals is considered 'over-processed'. This results in dry, rough and fragile hair. In extreme cases, the hair can be so damaged that it breaks off entirely. This is especially true for Afro-textured hair, especially if used in combination with relaxers. Treatments are available but the only real solution is to stop the use of chemicals until the hair recovers.
It is advised that colored hair be deep conditioned regularly, and washed and conditioned with gentle products specifically designed for color-treated hair. This will help keep the hair intact, as well as ensuring that the color doesn't fade as quickly.
Skin discoloration
Skin and fingernails are made of the same type of keratinized protein as hair. That means that drips, slips and extra hair tint around the hairline can result in patches of discolored skin. This is more common with darker hair colors and persons with dry absorbent skin.
This discoloration will disappear as the skin naturally renews itself and the top layer of skin is removed (typically takes a few days or at most a week). A good way to prevent dye discoloration is to put a thin layer of Vaseline or any oil-based preparation around the hairline. It is recommended that latex gloves be worn to protect the hands.
Unpredictable color results
Several factors influence the final color of the hair following the coloring process.
- For semi-permanent and demi-permanent color, the final color is always a blend of the natural color of the strand and the dye color.
- Bleached blond hair will not absorb certain colors (for instance, dying blond hair brunette can result in bright red or green hair).
- Previous use of henna and "color restorers" can react unpredictably with hair dyes.
- Previous use of some volumizing shampoos, which deposit a layer of plastic on the hair can block the action of the dye.
- Presence of minerals, salts, chlorine or other environmental contaminants usually from residential water supplies or sea water
- Certain prescription drugs can alter hair chemistry
- Dying dark hair blond requires knowledge of color theory. Once the hair is bleached, it will have a yellow or coppery shade. A violet-based color must be used to cancel out yellow tones, and a blue-based shade will cancel out coppery orange.
Professional hair colorists have a number of products which can correct or reduce the impact of unintended hair coloring outcomes.
Health concerns
There is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences that may result from use of hair coloring.
Recent publications regarding the dangers of hair tints include:
- An FDA study that found lead acetate
Lead acetate can refer to:* Lead tetraacetate , Pb4* Lead acetate , Pb2...
(the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such as Grecian formulaGrecian Formula is a popular men's dye in the United States. It is made by Combe Incorporated in White Plains New York, and is also known as Grecian Formula 16. It is available as a clear liquid, cream and a foam...
) to be potentially toxic.
- Articles that link the development of some forms of cancer
Cancer is a class of diseases in which a group of cells display uncontrolled growth , invasion , and sometimes metastasis...
(including leukemiaLeukemia is a cancer of the blood or bone marrow and is characterized by an abnormal proliferation of blood cells, usually white blood cells . Leukemia is a broad term covering a spectrum of diseases...
, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, bladder cancer, blood cancer, and multiple myeloma) with use of hair color. More specifically, prolonged use of permanent dark hair dyes can actually double a person's risk of getting various types of blood cancer.
- Recently a known human carcinogen, 4-ABP, was found in some hair dyes that you can get off the shelf.
Alternatives to industrial tints
Ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are
hennaHenna or Hina is a flowering plant, the sole species in the genus Lawsonia in the family Lythraceae. The word "henna" comes from the Arabic name for the plant, pronounced /ħinnaːʔ/ or colloquially /ħinna/....
,
indigoIndigofera tinctoria bears the common name true indigo. The plant was one of the original sources of indigo dye. It has been naturalized to tropical and temperate Asia, as well as parts of Africa, but its native habitat is unknown since it has been in cultivation worldwide for many centuries. Today...
,
Cassia obovata, senna,
turmericTurmeric is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant of the ginger family, Zingiberaceae. It is native to tropical South Asia and needs temperatures between 20°C and 30°C, and a considerable amount of annual rainfall to thrive...
and
amlaThe Indian gooseberry is a deciduous tree of the Euphorbiaceae family. It is known for its edible fruit of the same name....
. Others include katam,
black walnut hullsThe Eastern Black walnut is a species of flowering tree in the hickory family, Juglandaceae, that is native to eastern North America. It grows mostly in riparian zones, from southern Ontario, west to southeast South Dakota, south to Georgia, northern Florida and southwest to central Texas...
, and leeks.
Presently, there are companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to
PPDp-Phenylenediamine is an aromatic amine used as a component of engineering polymers and composites, aramid fibers, hair dyes, rubber chemicals, textile dyes, and pigments. PPD is selected because of its high temperature stability, high strength, and chemical and electrical resistance...
, a chemical found in most hair colors.
There are also said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based, and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options with the same persistence as the industrial versions - however in practice, these products often do not last as long as industrial tints. Users should be cautioned that allergic reactions are possible even from "natural" vegetable dyes.
HennaHenna or Hina is a flowering plant, the sole species in the genus Lawsonia in the family Lythraceae. The word "henna" comes from the Arabic name for the plant, pronounced /ħinnaːʔ/ or colloquially /ħinna/....
is a plant used for ayurvedic hair coloring. The red dye is commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component,
lawsoneLawsone , also known as hennotannic acid, is a red-orange dye present in the leaves of the henna plant as well as jewelweed . Humans have used henna extracts containing lawsone as hair and skin pigments for more than 5000 years...
, binds to
keratinKeratins are a family of fibrous structural proteins; tough and insoluble, they form the hard but un-mineralized structures found in reptiles, birds, amphibians, and mammals...
and is therefore semi-permanent (i.e., it will wash out with time, generally a couple of months) to permanent, depending on a person's hair type. Most will achieve a permanent color after the second dye. While "natural" henna is generally a deep red-color, variations exist. These variations, however, usually contain ingredients from other plants and even synthetic dyes.
Using a plant-based color such as henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a
permA permanent wave, commonly called a perm, is the chemical and/or thermal treatment of hair to produce waves, curls or straight hair. The use of the word 'permanent' is justified insofar as when the wave is permed, it remains so; however, as the hair grows, the new hair that grows has not been...
or permanent hair color. Pure imported body art quality henna is claimed not to cause such problems, but most store-bought henna is mixed with additives which can lead to unpredictable results. Although it may not be visible on darker hair, the staining from henna will remain for several months and this may only be realized when dying is attempted and an unpleasant, permanent orange color results.
A new patented (USP7,55,014) technology combines mineral dietary supplements, such as iron, with very pure vegetable dyes to provide a complete line of permanent hair colors with the intensity of PPD-based colors without the problems of henna. http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/11/natural-hair-dye-from-act-naturals.php.
See also
- Human physical appearance
Variations in the physical appearance of humans, known as human looks, are believed by anthropologists to be an important factor in the development of personality and social relations, in particular, physical attractiveness. There is a relatively low sexual dimorphism between human males and...
- Hairstyle
A hairstyle, hairdo, or haircut refers to a styling of head hair. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical considerations also influence some hairstyles...
- Hair highlighting
Hair highlighting refers to changing a person's hair color, using lighter colors to color strands of the hair in different sizes. There are four types of highlights: basic foil highlights, hair painting, chunking and low-lighting. They are very common for teenagers and done in expressive and...
- Punk fashion
Punk fashion is the clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry, and body modifications of the punk subculture. Punk fashion varies widely, ranging from Vivienne Westwood designs to styles modeled on bands like The Exploited. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including...
- Chapatsu
Literally "brown hair", is the once-rebellious, once-trendy style of bleaching hair, found among Japanese teens.While the style itself began to show up in Tokyo streets during the mid- to early-1990s, the word did not appear in Kōjien until 1998...
External links