Essaouira
Encyclopedia
Mogador redirects here, for the hamlet in Surrey see Mogador, Surrey
.
Essaouira is a city
in the western Moroccan
economic region of Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, on the Atlantic coast
. Since the 16th century, the city has also been known by its Portuguese
name of Mogador or Mogadore. The Berber name means the wall, a reference to the fortress walls that originally enclosed the city.
protected against strong marine winds.
. The Carthaginian navigator Hanno
visited and established a trading post there in the 5th century BC.
Around the end of the 1st century BCE or early 1st century CE
, Juba II
established a Tyrian purple
factory, processing the murex
and purpura shells found in the intertidal rocks at Essaouira and the Iles Purpuraires
. This dye
colored the purple stripe in Imperial Roman
Senatorial
toga
s.
A Roman villa was also excavated on Mogador island
. A Roman vase was found as well as coinage from the 3rd century CE. Most of the artifacts are now visible in the Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum
and the Rabat Archaeological Museum
.
, a Muslim
saint named Sidi Mogdoul
was buried in Essaouira, probably giving its origin to the name "Mogador".
, D. Manuel I
ordered a fortress to be built there, named "Castelo Real de Mogador
". Altogether, the Portuguese are documented to have seized 6 Moroccan towns, and built 6 stand-alone fortresses on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, between the river Loukos in the north and the river of Sous
in the south. Four of them only had a short duration: Graciosa
(1489), Sao Joao da Mamora (1515), Castelo Real of Mogador
(1506–10) and Aguz
(1520–25). Two of them were to become permanent urban settlements: Santa Cruz do Cabo de Gué (modern Agadir
, founded in 1505-06), and Mazagan founded in 1514-17. Following the 1541 Fall of Agadir
, the Portuguese had to abandon most of their settlements between 1541 and 1550, although they were able to keep Ceuta
, Tangier
and Mazagan.
The fortress of Castelo Real of Mogador fell to the local resistance of the Regraga
fraternity four years after its establishment, in 1510.
During the 16th century, various powers including Spain
, England
, the Netherlands
and France
tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar
, molasses
and the anchoring of pirates.
In 1628, plans were already made by Abdel Malik II
to use Christian slaves to build fortifications around the bay.
suggested them to occupy Mogador in 1626, which he had already reconnoitered in 1619. The objective was to create a base against the Sultan of Marrakesh, and asphyxiate the harbour of Safi
.
He departed for Salé
on 20 July 1629 with a fleet composed of the ships Licorne, Saint-Louis, Griffon, Catherine, Hambourg, Sainte-Anne, Saint-Jean. He bombarded the city the Salé and destroyed 3 corsair ships, and then sent the Griffon under Captain Treillebois to Mogador. The men of Razilly saw the fortress of Castelo Real
in Mogador, and landed 100 men with wood and supplies on Mogador island
, with the agreement of Richelieu. After a few days however, the Griffon reimbarked the colonists, and departed to rejoin the fleet in Salé.
After these expeditions, France signed a treaty with Abd el-Malek II
in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, known as "Capitulations
": preferential tariffs, the establishment of a Consulate and freedom of religion for French subjects.
, wishing to reorient his kingdom towards the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, chose Mogador as his key location. One of his objectives was to establish a harbour at the closest possible point from Marrakesh. The other was to cut off trade from Agadir
in the south, which had been favouring political rival of Mohammed III, and the inhabitants of Agadir were forced to relocate to Essaouira.
For 12 years, Mohammed III directed a French engineer, Théodore Cornut
, and several other European architects and technicians, to build the fortress and city along modern lines. Originally called "Souira", "The small fortress", the name then became "Es-Saouira", "The beautifully designed".
Thédore Cornut designed and built the city itself, particularly the Kasbah area, corresponding to the Royal quarters and the buildings for Christian merchants and diplomats. Other parts were built by other foreigners however. The harbour entrance, with the "Porte de la Marine", was built by an English renegade
by the name of Ahmed el Inglizi
("Ahmed the English"), or Ahmed El Alj ("Ahmed the Renegade"). The two "scalas" with their fortifications (the Harbour scala and the Northern scala) were built by Genoese engineers.
Mohammed III took numerous steps to encourage the development of Essaouira: the harbour of Agadir
to the south was closed off in 1767, so that southern trade should be redirect through Essaouira. European communities in the northern harbour of Rabat
-Salé
were also ordered to move to Essaouira through an ordonance of January 21, 1765.
From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad III until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco's principal port, offering the goods of the caravan trade to the world. The route brought goods from sub-Saharan Africa
to Timbuktu
, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains
to Marrakech
. The road from Marrakech to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the King's choice of this port among the many that the Moroccan coast offers.
encouraged Moroccan Jews to settle in the town and handle the trade with Europe. Jews once comprised 40% of the population, and the Jewish quarter, or mellah
contain many old synagogues. The town also has a large Jewish cemetery. The city flourished until the caravan trade died, outmoded by direct European trade with sub-Saharan Africa.
. The city functioned as the harbour for Marrakesh,as it was only a few days from the inland city. Numerous diplomatic and trade representations were established by European powers in Essouira. In the 1820, European diplomats were concentrated in either Tangiers or Essaouira.
's Abd-El-Kader against France, Essaouira was bombarded and briefly occupied by the French Navy
under the Prince de Joinville on August 16, 1844, in the Bombardment of Mogador
, an important battle of the First Franco-Moroccan War
.
From 1912 to 1956, Essaouira was part of the French protectorate of Morocco. Mogador was used as a base for a military expedition against Dar Anflous, when 8,000 French troops were located outside of the city under the orders of Generals Franchet d'Esperey and Brulard. The Kasbah of Dar Anflous was taken on 25 January 1913. In 1930, brothers, Michel Vieuchange
and Jean Vieuchange
used Essaouira as a base before Michel set off into the Western Sahara
to try to find Smara
.
France had an important administrative, military and economic presence. Essaouira had a Franco-Moroccan school, still visible in Derb Dharb street. Linguistically, many Moroccans of Essaouira still speak French fluently today.
. A broad sandy beach extends from the harbour south of Essaourira, at which point the Oued Ksob
discharges to the ocean; south of the discharge lies the archaeological ruin, the Bordj El Berod
. The Canary Current
is responsible for the generally southward movement of ocean circulation and has led to enhancement of the local fishery
. The village of Diabat
lies about five kilometres south of Essaouira, immediately south of the Oued Ksob
.
Essaouira connects to Safi
to the north and to Agadir
to the south via the N1 road and to Marrakech to the east via the R 207 road. There is a small airport
some 7–8 km away from the town, which schedules several flights a week to Paris-Orly and daily to Casablanca
.
of Essaouira (formerly "Mogador") is a UNESCO
World Heritage Listed
city, as an example of a late 18th century fortified town, as transferred to North Africa
.
that may be rented on a daily or weekly basis.
is home to many small arts and crafts businesses, notably cabinet making
and 'thuya' wood-carving (using roots of the Tetraclinis
tree), both of which have been practised in Essaouira for centuries.
The fishing harbour, suffering from the competition of Agadir
and Safi
remains rather small, although the catches (sardine
s, conger eels) are surprisingly abundant due to the coastal upwelling
generated by the powerful trade winds and the Canaries Current. Essaouira remains one of the major fishing harbours of Morocco.
Essaouira is also renowned for its kitesurfing
and windsurfing
, with the powerful trade wind blowing almost constantly onto the protected, almost waveless, bay. Several world-class clubs rent top-notch material on a weekly basis. Parasols tend to be used on the beach as a protection against the wind and the blowing sand. Camel
excursions are available on the beach and into the desert
band in the interior.
Additionally, there are quad biking excursions, cookery courses, photographic excursions and Berber
massages available for the active visitor.
In the early 1950s film director and actor Orson Welles
stayed at the Hotel des Iles just south of the town walls during the filming of his 1952 classic version of "Othello
" which contains several memorable scenes shot in the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of the medina
. Legend has it that during Welles's sojourn in the town he met Winston Churchill
, another guest at the Hotel des Iles. Orson Welles's bust is located in a small square just outside the medina walls close to the sea. It is in a neglected state being covered in bird poop, graffiti
and with a broken nose. In addition, the dedication plaque below it has been stolen (as of Dec 2008). Several other film directors have utilised Essaouira's photogenic and atmospheric qualities.
Despite common misconception, Jimi Hendrix
's song "Castles Made of Sand
" was written two years before he visited the castles of Essaouira.
with: La Rochelle
, France
(since 1999)
Mogador, Surrey
Mogador is a hamlet in the Reigate and Banstead district, in the English county of Surrey. It is located close to the top of the north-facing dip slope of the North Downs. The hamlet is located on both the northern and southern sides of the M25 motorway, with the main road bridging the motorway...
.
Essaouira is a city
City
A city is a relatively large and permanent settlement. Although there is no agreement on how a city is distinguished from a town within general English language meanings, many cities have a particular administrative, legal, or historical status based on local law.For example, in the U.S...
in the western Moroccan
Morocco
Morocco , officially the Kingdom of Morocco , is a country located in North Africa. It has a population of more than 32 million and an area of 710,850 km², and also primarily administers the disputed region of the Western Sahara...
economic region of Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, on the Atlantic coast
Atlantic Ocean
The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's oceanic divisions. With a total area of about , it covers approximately 20% of the Earth's surface and about 26% of its water surface area...
. Since the 16th century, the city has also been known by its Portuguese
Portuguese Empire
The Portuguese Empire , also known as the Portuguese Overseas Empire or the Portuguese Colonial Empire , was the first global empire in history...
name of Mogador or Mogadore. The Berber name means the wall, a reference to the fortress walls that originally enclosed the city.
History
Archaeological research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since prehistoric times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered by the island of Mogador, making it a peaceful harborHarbor
A harbor or harbour , or haven, is a place where ships, boats, and barges can seek shelter from stormy weather, or else are stored for future use. Harbors can be natural or artificial...
protected against strong marine winds.
Antiquity
Essaouira has long been considered as one of the best anchorages of the Moroccan coastCoast
A coastline or seashore is the area where land meets the sea or ocean. A precise line that can be called a coastline cannot be determined due to the dynamic nature of tides. The term "coastal zone" can be used instead, which is a spatial zone where interaction of the sea and land processes occurs...
. The Carthaginian navigator Hanno
Hanno the Navigator
Hanno the Navigator was a Carthaginian explorer c. 500 BC, best known for his naval exploration of the African coast...
visited and established a trading post there in the 5th century BC.
Around the end of the 1st century BCE or early 1st century CE
CE
CE, Ce or ce may refer to:* Common Era , secular alternative to Anno Domini * Cerium, chemical element with symbol Ce- Titles :* Chief Executive, administrative head of some regions...
, Juba II
Juba II
Juba II or Juba II of Numidia was a king of Numidia and then later moved to Mauretania. His first wife was Cleopatra Selene II, daughter to Greek Ptolemaic Queen Cleopatra VII of Egypt and Roman triumvir Mark Antony.-Early life:Juba II was a prince of Berber descent from North Africa...
established a Tyrian purple
Tyrian purple
Tyrian purple , also known as royal purple, imperial purple or imperial dye, is a purple-red natural dye, which is extracted from sea snails, and which was possibly first produced by the ancient Phoenicians...
factory, processing the murex
Murex
Murex is a genus of medium to large sized predatory tropical sea snails. These are carnivorous marine gastropod molluscs in the family Muricidae, commonly calle "murexes" or "rock snails"...
and purpura shells found in the intertidal rocks at Essaouira and the Iles Purpuraires
Iles Purpuraires
Iles Purpuraires are a set of small islands off the western coast of Morocco at the bay located at Essaouira. These islands were settled in antiquity by the Phoenicians, chiefly to exploit certain marine resources and as a promontory fort...
. This dye
Dye
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and requires a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber....
colored the purple stripe in Imperial Roman
Roman Empire
The Roman Empire was the post-Republican period of the ancient Roman civilization, characterised by an autocratic form of government and large territorial holdings in Europe and around the Mediterranean....
Senatorial
Roman Senate
The Senate of the Roman Republic was a political institution in the ancient Roman Republic, however, it was not an elected body, but one whose members were appointed by the consuls, and later by the censors. After a magistrate served his term in office, it usually was followed with automatic...
toga
Toga
The toga, a distinctive garment of Ancient Rome, was a cloth of perhaps 20 ft in length which was wrapped around the body and was generally worn over a tunic. The toga was made of wool, and the tunic under it often was made of linen. After the 2nd century BC, the toga was a garment worn...
s.
A Roman villa was also excavated on Mogador island
Mogador island
Mogador island is the main island of the Iles Purpuraires in front of Essaouira. It is about 3 kilometers long and 1.5 kilometers wide, and lies about 1.5 kilometers from the opposite beach of Essaouira....
. A Roman vase was found as well as coinage from the 3rd century CE. Most of the artifacts are now visible in the Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum
Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum
The Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum is a history museum in the city of Essaouira, Morocco. It was named after the founder of the city, Mohammed ben Abdallah....
and the Rabat Archaeological Museum
Rabat Archaeological Museum
Rabat Archaeological Museum is an archaeological museum in Rabat, Morocco. Opened in 1932, it contains the most extensive collection of archaeological artifacts found in Morocco...
.
Early modern period
During the Middle AgesMiddle Ages
The Middle Ages is a periodization of European history from the 5th century to the 15th century. The Middle Ages follows the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476 and precedes the Early Modern Era. It is the middle period of a three-period division of Western history: Classic, Medieval and Modern...
, a Muslim
Muslim
A Muslim, also spelled Moslem, is an adherent of Islam, a monotheistic, Abrahamic religion based on the Quran, which Muslims consider the verbatim word of God as revealed to prophet Muhammad. "Muslim" is the Arabic term for "submitter" .Muslims believe that God is one and incomparable...
saint named Sidi Mogdoul
Sidi Mogdoul
Sidi Mogdoul was a Muslim saint during the Middle Ages. He was buried in Essaouira.The saint also gave his name to the nearby lighthouse, 17 meter high, named the Sidi Mogdoul lighthouse....
was buried in Essaouira, probably giving its origin to the name "Mogador".
Portuguese establishment (1506-10)
In 1506, the king of PortugalPortugal
Portugal , officially the Portuguese Republic is a country situated in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. Portugal is the westernmost country of Europe, and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the West and South and by Spain to the North and East. The Atlantic archipelagos of the...
, D. Manuel I
Manuel I of Portugal
Manuel I , the Fortunate , 14th king of Portugal and the Algarves was the son of Infante Ferdinand, Duke of Viseu, , by his wife, Infanta Beatrice of Portugal...
ordered a fortress to be built there, named "Castelo Real de Mogador
Castelo Real
Castelo Real was a Portuguese castle established in Mogador, modern Essaouira, by the Portuguese in 1506.-Construction :The Portuguese king Dom Manuel ordered Diogo de Azambuja, the founder of Castello da Mina, to build a castle on a small island, now called "La Petite Ile", in the Moroccan...
". Altogether, the Portuguese are documented to have seized 6 Moroccan towns, and built 6 stand-alone fortresses on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, between the river Loukos in the north and the river of Sous
Sous
The Sous or Souss is a region in southern Morocco. Geologically, it is the alluvial basin of the Oued Sous , separated from the Sahara by the Anti-Atlas Mountains...
in the south. Four of them only had a short duration: Graciosa
Graciosa fortress
The Graciosa fortress was established on the coast of Morocco by the Portuguese in 1489. It was established on a small river island, about three leagues from the sea, at the junction of river Lucus and river el-Mekhazen , a few kilometers inland from modern Larache...
(1489), Sao Joao da Mamora (1515), Castelo Real of Mogador
Castelo Real
Castelo Real was a Portuguese castle established in Mogador, modern Essaouira, by the Portuguese in 1506.-Construction :The Portuguese king Dom Manuel ordered Diogo de Azambuja, the founder of Castello da Mina, to build a castle on a small island, now called "La Petite Ile", in the Moroccan...
(1506–10) and Aguz
Souira Guedima
Souira Guedima, formerly known as Aguz, is a Moroccan town 36 km south of Safi, at the mouth of the Tensift River on the Atlantic seacoast. Guedima may also be spelt Kadima, Kdima, Qadima , or Qdima...
(1520–25). Two of them were to become permanent urban settlements: Santa Cruz do Cabo de Gué (modern Agadir
Agadir
Agadir is a major city in southwest Morocco, capital of the Agadir province and the Sous-Massa-Draa economic region .-Etymology:...
, founded in 1505-06), and Mazagan founded in 1514-17. Following the 1541 Fall of Agadir
Fall of Agadir
The Fall of Agadir refers to the conquest of the city of Agadir in Morocco by the Saadians against the Portuguese in 1541.-Establishment and trade role:...
, the Portuguese had to abandon most of their settlements between 1541 and 1550, although they were able to keep Ceuta
Ceuta
Ceuta is an autonomous city of Spain and an exclave located on the north coast of North Africa surrounded by Morocco. Separated from the Iberian peninsula by the Strait of Gibraltar, Ceuta lies on the border of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Ceuta along with the other Spanish...
, Tangier
Tangier
Tangier, also Tangiers is a city in northern Morocco with a population of about 700,000 . It lies on the North African coast at the western entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic Ocean off Cape Spartel...
and Mazagan.
The fortress of Castelo Real of Mogador fell to the local resistance of the Regraga
Regraga
The Regraga are a sub-tribe of the Masmuda. They are also one of three tribes that formed the population of Essaouira, Morocco. The Regraga came from the Jbel Hadid mountains and introduced Islam to the region; the other tribes were the Berber Haha and the Chiadma...
fraternity four years after its establishment, in 1510.
During the 16th century, various powers including Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
, the Netherlands
Netherlands
The Netherlands is a constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, located mainly in North-West Europe and with several islands in the Caribbean. Mainland Netherlands borders the North Sea to the north and west, Belgium to the south, and Germany to the east, and shares maritime borders...
and France
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar
Sugar
Sugar is a class of edible crystalline carbohydrates, mainly sucrose, lactose, and fructose, characterized by a sweet flavor.Sucrose in its refined form primarily comes from sugar cane and sugar beet...
, molasses
Molasses
Molasses is a viscous by-product of the processing of sugar cane, grapes or sugar beets into sugar. The word molasses comes from the Portuguese word melaço, which ultimately comes from mel, the Latin word for "honey". The quality of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane or sugar beet,...
and the anchoring of pirates.
In 1628, plans were already made by Abdel Malik II
Abu Marwan Abd al-Malik II
Abu Marwan Abd al-Malik II, also known as Abd el-Malik II was a Sultan of Morocco from 1627 to 1631.After the expeditions of Isaac de Razilly to Morocco, he signed a Franco-Moroccan treaty with France in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, known as Capitulations: preferential tariffs, the...
to use Christian slaves to build fortifications around the bay.
De Razilly expedition (1629)
France was involved in an early attempt to colonize Mogador in 1629. As Richelieu and Père Joseph were attempting to establish a colonial policy, Admiral Isaac de RazillyIsaac de Razilly
Isaac de Razilly was a member of the French nobility appointed a knight of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem at the age of 18. He was born at the Château d'Oiseaumelle in the Province of Touraine, France. A member of the French navy, he served for many years during which he played an important...
suggested them to occupy Mogador in 1626, which he had already reconnoitered in 1619. The objective was to create a base against the Sultan of Marrakesh, and asphyxiate the harbour of Safi
Safi, Morocco
Safi is a city in western Morocco on the Atlantic Ocean. The capital of the Doukkala-Abda Region, it has a population of 282,227 , but is also the centre of an agglomeration which has an estimated 793,000 inhabitants ....
.
He departed for Salé
Salé
Salé is a city in north-western Morocco, on the right bank of the Bou Regreg river, opposite the national capital Rabat, for which it serves as a commuter town...
on 20 July 1629 with a fleet composed of the ships Licorne, Saint-Louis, Griffon, Catherine, Hambourg, Sainte-Anne, Saint-Jean. He bombarded the city the Salé and destroyed 3 corsair ships, and then sent the Griffon under Captain Treillebois to Mogador. The men of Razilly saw the fortress of Castelo Real
Castelo Real
Castelo Real was a Portuguese castle established in Mogador, modern Essaouira, by the Portuguese in 1506.-Construction :The Portuguese king Dom Manuel ordered Diogo de Azambuja, the founder of Castello da Mina, to build a castle on a small island, now called "La Petite Ile", in the Moroccan...
in Mogador, and landed 100 men with wood and supplies on Mogador island
Mogador island
Mogador island is the main island of the Iles Purpuraires in front of Essaouira. It is about 3 kilometers long and 1.5 kilometers wide, and lies about 1.5 kilometers from the opposite beach of Essaouira....
, with the agreement of Richelieu. After a few days however, the Griffon reimbarked the colonists, and departed to rejoin the fleet in Salé.
After these expeditions, France signed a treaty with Abd el-Malek II
Abu Marwan Abd al-Malik II
Abu Marwan Abd al-Malik II, also known as Abd el-Malik II was a Sultan of Morocco from 1627 to 1631.After the expeditions of Isaac de Razilly to Morocco, he signed a Franco-Moroccan treaty with France in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, known as Capitulations: preferential tariffs, the...
in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, known as "Capitulations
Capitulation (treaty)
A capitulation , or ahidnâme, is a treaty or unilateral contract by which a sovereign state relinquishes jurisdiction within its borders over the subjects of a foreign state...
": preferential tariffs, the establishment of a Consulate and freedom of religion for French subjects.
Foundation of modern Essaouira (1760-70)
The present city of Essaouira was only built during the 18th century. Mohammed IIIMohammed III of Morocco
Mohammed Ben Abdellah al-Khatib was Sultan of Morocco from 1757 to 1790 under the Alaouite dynasty. He was the governor of Marrakech around 1750 and was the son of Sultan Abdallah IV who reigned 1745-1757...
, wishing to reorient his kingdom towards the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, chose Mogador as his key location. One of his objectives was to establish a harbour at the closest possible point from Marrakesh. The other was to cut off trade from Agadir
Agadir
Agadir is a major city in southwest Morocco, capital of the Agadir province and the Sous-Massa-Draa economic region .-Etymology:...
in the south, which had been favouring political rival of Mohammed III, and the inhabitants of Agadir were forced to relocate to Essaouira.
For 12 years, Mohammed III directed a French engineer, Théodore Cornut
Théodore Cornut
Théodore Cornut, also Cornout, was a French mathematician and military architect of the 18th century, born in Avignon, who worked for the King of Morocco....
, and several other European architects and technicians, to build the fortress and city along modern lines. Originally called "Souira", "The small fortress", the name then became "Es-Saouira", "The beautifully designed".
Thédore Cornut designed and built the city itself, particularly the Kasbah area, corresponding to the Royal quarters and the buildings for Christian merchants and diplomats. Other parts were built by other foreigners however. The harbour entrance, with the "Porte de la Marine", was built by an English renegade
Turncoat
A turncoat is a person who shifts allegiance from one loyalty or ideal to another, betraying or deserting an original cause by switching to the opposing side or party...
by the name of Ahmed el Inglizi
Ahmed el Inglizi
Ahmed el Inglizi , also Ahmed El Alj or Ahmed Laalaj , was an English renegade architect and engineer who worked for the Sultan of Morocco Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 18th century. As described by his surname "El Alj", Ahmed el Inglizi was a "renegade", i.e. he had abandoned Christianity for Islam...
("Ahmed the English"), or Ahmed El Alj ("Ahmed the Renegade"). The two "scalas" with their fortifications (the Harbour scala and the Northern scala) were built by Genoese engineers.
Mohammed III took numerous steps to encourage the development of Essaouira: the harbour of Agadir
Agadir
Agadir is a major city in southwest Morocco, capital of the Agadir province and the Sous-Massa-Draa economic region .-Etymology:...
to the south was closed off in 1767, so that southern trade should be redirect through Essaouira. European communities in the northern harbour of Rabat
Rabat
Rabat , is the capital and third largest city of the Kingdom of Morocco with a population of approximately 650,000...
-Salé
Salé
Salé is a city in north-western Morocco, on the right bank of the Bou Regreg river, opposite the national capital Rabat, for which it serves as a commuter town...
were also ordered to move to Essaouira through an ordonance of January 21, 1765.
From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad III until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco's principal port, offering the goods of the caravan trade to the world. The route brought goods from sub-Saharan Africa
Sub-Saharan Africa
Sub-Saharan Africa as a geographical term refers to the area of the African continent which lies south of the Sahara. A political definition of Sub-Saharan Africa, instead, covers all African countries which are fully or partially located south of the Sahara...
to Timbuktu
Timbuktu
Timbuktu , formerly also spelled Timbuctoo, is a town in the West African nation of Mali situated north of the River Niger on the southern edge of the Sahara Desert. The town is the capital of the Timbuktu Region, one of the eight administrative regions of Mali...
, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains
Atlas Mountains
The Atlas Mountains is a mountain range across a northern stretch of Africa extending about through Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. The highest peak is Toubkal, with an elevation of in southwestern Morocco. The Atlas ranges separate the Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines from the Sahara Desert...
to Marrakech
Marrakech
Marrakech or Marrakesh , known as the "Ochre city", is the most important former imperial city in Morocco's history...
. The road from Marrakech to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the King's choice of this port among the many that the Moroccan coast offers.
Jewish presence
Mohammed ben AbdallahMohammed III of Morocco
Mohammed Ben Abdellah al-Khatib was Sultan of Morocco from 1757 to 1790 under the Alaouite dynasty. He was the governor of Marrakech around 1750 and was the son of Sultan Abdallah IV who reigned 1745-1757...
encouraged Moroccan Jews to settle in the town and handle the trade with Europe. Jews once comprised 40% of the population, and the Jewish quarter, or mellah
Mellah
A mellah is a walled Jewish quarter of a city in Morocco, an analogue of the European ghetto...
contain many old synagogues. The town also has a large Jewish cemetery. The city flourished until the caravan trade died, outmoded by direct European trade with sub-Saharan Africa.
European trade and diplomacy
In the 19th century, Essaouira became the first seaport of Morocco, with trade volumes about double those of RabatRabat
Rabat , is the capital and third largest city of the Kingdom of Morocco with a population of approximately 650,000...
. The city functioned as the harbour for Marrakesh,as it was only a few days from the inland city. Numerous diplomatic and trade representations were established by European powers in Essouira. In the 1820, European diplomats were concentrated in either Tangiers or Essaouira.
French interventions and Protectorate
Following Morocco's alliance with AlgeriaAlgeria
Algeria , officially the People's Democratic Republic of Algeria , also formally referred to as the Democratic and Popular Republic of Algeria, is a country in the Maghreb region of Northwest Africa with Algiers as its capital.In terms of land area, it is the largest country in Africa and the Arab...
's Abd-El-Kader against France, Essaouira was bombarded and briefly occupied by the French Navy
French Navy
The French Navy, officially the Marine nationale and often called La Royale is the maritime arm of the French military. It includes a full range of fighting vessels, from patrol boats to a nuclear powered aircraft carrier and 10 nuclear-powered submarines, four of which are capable of launching...
under the Prince de Joinville on August 16, 1844, in the Bombardment of Mogador
Bombardment of Mogador
The Bombardment of Mogador took place in August 1844, when French Navy forces under the Prince de Joinville attacked the Moroccan city of Mogador, modern Essaouira, and the island facing the city, Mogador island. The campaign was part of the First Franco-Moroccan War...
, an important battle of the First Franco-Moroccan War
Franco-Moroccan Wars
The Franco-Moroccan War consisted of a series of conflicts fought between France and its colonial administrators on one side, and the sultanate of Morocco on the other....
.
From 1912 to 1956, Essaouira was part of the French protectorate of Morocco. Mogador was used as a base for a military expedition against Dar Anflous, when 8,000 French troops were located outside of the city under the orders of Generals Franchet d'Esperey and Brulard. The Kasbah of Dar Anflous was taken on 25 January 1913. In 1930, brothers, Michel Vieuchange
Michel Vieuchange
Michel Vieuchange, born Nevers in 1904 and died Agadir in 1930, was a French adventurer who was the first European to visit the abandoned ruins of the walled city of Smara, in the interior of the Sahara....
and Jean Vieuchange
Jean Vieuchange
Jean Joseph Marie Vieuchange was a French adventurer and doctor, best known for preparing for publication the hand-written notebooks of his brother, Michel, describing his discovery of Smara in the Western Sahara in November 1930....
used Essaouira as a base before Michel set off into the Western Sahara
Western Sahara
Western Sahara is a disputed territory in North Africa, bordered by Morocco to the north, Algeria to the northeast, Mauritania to the east and south, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Its surface area amounts to . It is one of the most sparsely populated territories in the world, mainly...
to try to find Smara
Smara
Smara, also Semara , is a city in the Moroccan-Administered Western Sahara, with a population estimated at 42,056.-History:The largest city in its province, Smara was founded in the Saguia el-Hamra as an oasis for travellers in 1869. It is the only major city in Western Sahara that was not founded...
.
France had an important administrative, military and economic presence. Essaouira had a Franco-Moroccan school, still visible in Derb Dharb street. Linguistically, many Moroccans of Essaouira still speak French fluently today.
Geography
Essaouira is protected by a natural bay partially shielded by wave action by the Iles PurpurairesIles Purpuraires
Iles Purpuraires are a set of small islands off the western coast of Morocco at the bay located at Essaouira. These islands were settled in antiquity by the Phoenicians, chiefly to exploit certain marine resources and as a promontory fort...
. A broad sandy beach extends from the harbour south of Essaourira, at which point the Oued Ksob
Oued Ksob
Oued Ksob is a river in western Morocco that discharges to the Atlantic Ocean on a broad beach slightly south of the city of Essaouira and slightly north of the village of Diabat. The mouth of the river along with the nearby Iles Purpuraires is known for sighting of the rare species Eleonora's...
discharges to the ocean; south of the discharge lies the archaeological ruin, the Bordj El Berod
Bordj El Berod
Bourj El Baroud is a ruined watchtower located somewhat south of the mouth of Oued Ksob near Essaouira, Morocco. This structure is located on a broad sandy beach directly across from Phoenician ruins at the southeast tip of the main islet of Iles Purpuraires...
. The Canary Current
Canary Current
The Canary Current is a wind-driven surface current that is part of the North Atlantic Gyre. This eastern boundary current branches south from the North Atlantic Current and flows southwest about as far as Senegal where it turns west and later joins the Atlantic North Equatorial Current. The...
is responsible for the generally southward movement of ocean circulation and has led to enhancement of the local fishery
Fishery
Generally, a fishery is an entity engaged in raising or harvesting fish which is determined by some authority to be a fishery. According to the FAO, a fishery is typically defined in terms of the "people involved, species or type of fish, area of water or seabed, method of fishing, class of boats,...
. The village of Diabat
Diabat
Diabat is a village in western Morocco near the coast of the Atlantic Ocean about two kilometres south of the city of Essaouira. The Bordj El Berod is a ruined watchtower located somewhat south of the mouth of Oued Ksob near about one kilometre west of Diabat.-References:* Mark Ellingham The...
lies about five kilometres south of Essaouira, immediately south of the Oued Ksob
Oued Ksob
Oued Ksob is a river in western Morocco that discharges to the Atlantic Ocean on a broad beach slightly south of the city of Essaouira and slightly north of the village of Diabat. The mouth of the river along with the nearby Iles Purpuraires is known for sighting of the rare species Eleonora's...
.
Essaouira connects to Safi
Safi, Morocco
Safi is a city in western Morocco on the Atlantic Ocean. The capital of the Doukkala-Abda Region, it has a population of 282,227 , but is also the centre of an agglomeration which has an estimated 793,000 inhabitants ....
to the north and to Agadir
Agadir
Agadir is a major city in southwest Morocco, capital of the Agadir province and the Sous-Massa-Draa economic region .-Etymology:...
to the south via the N1 road and to Marrakech to the east via the R 207 road. There is a small airport
Mogador Airport
Mogador Airport is an airport serving Essaouira , a city in the Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz region in Morocco.-Facilities:...
some 7–8 km away from the town, which schedules several flights a week to Paris-Orly and daily to Casablanca
Casablanca
Casablanca is a city in western Morocco, located on the Atlantic Ocean. It is the capital of the Grand Casablanca region.Casablanca is Morocco's largest city as well as its chief port. It is also the biggest city in the Maghreb. The 2004 census recorded a population of 2,949,805 in the prefecture...
.
Climate
Essaouira's climate is very mild compared to its location with an average temperature change of only 5C between summer and winter.Essaouira today
The MedinaMedina quarter
A medina quarter is a distinct city section found in many North African cities. The medina is typically walled, contains many narrow and maze-like streets...
of Essaouira (formerly "Mogador") is a UNESCO
UNESCO
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations...
World Heritage Listed
World Heritage Site
A UNESCO World Heritage Site is a place that is listed by the UNESCO as of special cultural or physical significance...
city, as an example of a late 18th century fortified town, as transferred to North Africa
North Africa
North Africa or Northern Africa is the northernmost region of the African continent, linked by the Sahara to Sub-Saharan Africa. Geopolitically, the United Nations definition of Northern Africa includes eight countries or territories; Algeria, Egypt, Libya, Morocco, South Sudan, Sudan, Tunisia, and...
.
Where to Stay
There are only a handful of modern purpose-built hotels within the walls of the old city. Newer international hotels have been built along the sea front - the local planning regulations restrict buildings to 4 storeys high to help preserve the stunning views. There are also many privately owned Riads and DarsDarß
The Darß is the middle part of the peninsula of Fischland-Darß-Zingst on the southern shore of the Baltic Sea in the German state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. The peninsula's name comes from the names of the three regions making up the peninsula. There is a large forest in the Darß...
that may be rented on a daily or weekly basis.
Activities
The medinaMedina quarter
A medina quarter is a distinct city section found in many North African cities. The medina is typically walled, contains many narrow and maze-like streets...
is home to many small arts and crafts businesses, notably cabinet making
Cabinet making
Cabinet making is the practice of using various woodworking skills to create cabinets, shelving and furniture.Cabinet making involves techniques such as creating appropriate joints, dados, bevels, chamfers and shelving systems, the use of finishing tools such as routers to create decorative...
and 'thuya' wood-carving (using roots of the Tetraclinis
Tetraclinis
Tetraclinis is a genus of evergreen coniferous tree in the cypress family Cupressaceae, containing only one species, Tetraclinis articulata, also known as Sandarac or the Barbary thuja, endemic to the western Mediterranean region...
tree), both of which have been practised in Essaouira for centuries.
The fishing harbour, suffering from the competition of Agadir
Agadir
Agadir is a major city in southwest Morocco, capital of the Agadir province and the Sous-Massa-Draa economic region .-Etymology:...
and Safi
Safi, Morocco
Safi is a city in western Morocco on the Atlantic Ocean. The capital of the Doukkala-Abda Region, it has a population of 282,227 , but is also the centre of an agglomeration which has an estimated 793,000 inhabitants ....
remains rather small, although the catches (sardine
Sardine
Sardines, or pilchards, are several types of small, oily fish related to herrings, family Clupeidae. Sardines are named after the Mediterranean island of Sardinia, around which they were once abundant....
s, conger eels) are surprisingly abundant due to the coastal upwelling
Upwelling
Upwelling is an oceanographic phenomenon that involves wind-driven motion of dense, cooler, and usually nutrient-rich water towards the ocean surface, replacing the warmer, usually nutrient-depleted surface water. The increased availability in upwelling regions results in high levels of primary...
generated by the powerful trade winds and the Canaries Current. Essaouira remains one of the major fishing harbours of Morocco.
Essaouira is also renowned for its kitesurfing
Kitesurfing
Kitesurfing or Kiteboarding is an adventure surface water sport that has been described as combining wakeboarding, windsurfing, surfing, paragliding, and gymnastics into one extreme sport. Kitesurfing harnesses the power of the wind to propel a rider across the water on a small surfboard or a...
and windsurfing
Windsurfing
Windsurfing or sailboarding is a surface water sport that combines elements of surfing and sailing. It consists of a board usually two to four metres long, powered by the orthogonal effect of the wind on a sail. The rig is connected to the board by a free-rotating universal joint and comprises a...
, with the powerful trade wind blowing almost constantly onto the protected, almost waveless, bay. Several world-class clubs rent top-notch material on a weekly basis. Parasols tend to be used on the beach as a protection against the wind and the blowing sand. Camel
Camel
A camel is an even-toed ungulate within the genus Camelus, bearing distinctive fatty deposits known as humps on its back. There are two species of camels: the dromedary or Arabian camel has a single hump, and the bactrian has two humps. Dromedaries are native to the dry desert areas of West Asia,...
excursions are available on the beach and into the desert
Desert
A desert is a landscape or region that receives an extremely low amount of precipitation, less than enough to support growth of most plants. Most deserts have an average annual precipitation of less than...
band in the interior.
Additionally, there are quad biking excursions, cookery courses, photographic excursions and Berber
Berber
Berber may refer to:*a member of the Berber people**the Berber languages, a family of Afro-Asiatic languages**Berberism, a political-cultural term supporting a distinct Berber identity**Berber calendar**Berber cuisine...
massages available for the active visitor.
Culture
Essaouira presents itself as a city full of culture: several small art galleries are found all over the town. Since 1998, the Gnaoua Festival of World Music is held in Essaouira, normally in the last week of June. It brings together artists from all over the world. Although focussed on gnaoua music, it includes rock, jazz and reggae. Dubbed as the "Moroccan Woodstock" it lasts four days and attracts annually around 450,000 spectators.In the early 1950s film director and actor Orson Welles
Orson Welles
George Orson Welles , best known as Orson Welles, was an American film director, actor, theatre director, screenwriter, and producer, who worked extensively in film, theatre, television and radio...
stayed at the Hotel des Iles just south of the town walls during the filming of his 1952 classic version of "Othello
Othello
The Tragedy of Othello, the Moor of Venice is a tragedy by William Shakespeare, believed to have been written in approximately 1603, and based on the Italian short story "Un Capitano Moro" by Cinthio, a disciple of Boccaccio, first published in 1565...
" which contains several memorable scenes shot in the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of the medina
Medina
Medina , or ; also transliterated as Madinah, or madinat al-nabi "the city of the prophet") is a city in the Hejaz region of western Saudi Arabia, and serves as the capital of the Al Madinah Province. It is the second holiest city in Islam, and the burial place of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad, and...
. Legend has it that during Welles's sojourn in the town he met Winston Churchill
Winston Churchill
Sir Winston Leonard Spencer-Churchill, was a predominantly Conservative British politician and statesman known for his leadership of the United Kingdom during the Second World War. He is widely regarded as one of the greatest wartime leaders of the century and served as Prime Minister twice...
, another guest at the Hotel des Iles. Orson Welles's bust is located in a small square just outside the medina walls close to the sea. It is in a neglected state being covered in bird poop, graffiti
Graffiti
Graffiti is the name for images or lettering scratched, scrawled, painted or marked in any manner on property....
and with a broken nose. In addition, the dedication plaque below it has been stolen (as of Dec 2008). Several other film directors have utilised Essaouira's photogenic and atmospheric qualities.
Despite common misconception, Jimi Hendrix
Jimi Hendrix
James Marshall "Jimi" Hendrix was an American guitarist and singer-songwriter...
's song "Castles Made of Sand
Castles Made of Sand (song)
"Castles Made of Sand" is a song written by Jimi Hendrix and released by The Jimi Hendrix Experience on their second studio album, Axis: Bold as Love, in 1967 in the UK and 1968 in the U.S. It was available in two different stereo mixes and a mono mix....
" was written two years before he visited the castles of Essaouira.
International relations
Twin towns — sister cities
Essaouira is twinnedTown twinning
Twin towns and sister cities are two of many terms used to describe the cooperative agreements between towns, cities, and even counties in geographically and politically distinct areas to promote cultural and commercial ties.- Terminology :...
with: La Rochelle
La Rochelle
La Rochelle is a city in western France and a seaport on the Bay of Biscay, a part of the Atlantic Ocean. It is the capital of the Charente-Maritime department.The city is connected to the Île de Ré by a bridge completed on 19 May 1988...
, France
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
(since 1999)
See also
- HahaHaha (Berber)The Haha or Iḥaḥan are a Berber people in the Western High Atlas in Morocco. They identify themselves as a tribe of the Shilha people, and speak the Shilha language. Their region stretches along from the city of Essaouira south to the Souss Valley, mainly on the Atlantic coast...
- RegragaRegragaThe Regraga are a sub-tribe of the Masmuda. They are also one of three tribes that formed the population of Essaouira, Morocco. The Regraga came from the Jbel Hadid mountains and introduced Islam to the region; the other tribes were the Berber Haha and the Chiadma...
- Tensift River
- Souira GuedimaSouira GuedimaSouira Guedima, formerly known as Aguz, is a Moroccan town 36 km south of Safi, at the mouth of the Tensift River on the Atlantic seacoast. Guedima may also be spelt Kadima, Kdima, Qadima , or Qdima...
- André JodinAndré JodinAndré Jodin is an archaeologist known for explorations and excavations in North Africa, especially in Morocco.Jodin – who typically signed his publications as A. Jodin – directed excavations at a number of significant sites, including Volubilis in north-east Morocco, and Mogador on...
- William WillshireWilliam WillshireWilliam Willshire also known as William Wiltshire , was British Vice Consul to Mogadore , Morocco from 1814 until 1844, before being assigned to the Consularship of Adrianople in 1845, until his death in 1851....
- Mogador class destroyerMogador class destroyerThe Mogador-class large destroyers of the French navy were laid down in 1935 and commissioned in 1939. They were extremely fast, very large destroyers intended to act as scouts for the two fast Dunkerque-class battleships...